Complete 72V 35Acontroller plans

Doctorbass

Doctorbass

100 GW
Joined
Apr 8, 2007
Messages
7,496
Location
Quebec, Canada East
:lol: .. I know i know.. you attempt to find these plans here.. nop!... I dont have.. BUT i am searching someone who have it.. I found some partial plans like current limiter, output stage etc on this site.. but not a complete plans! no about the 13005A transistor for voltage regulation.. no plans of that too...


Knoxie, Fechter, A29, Mathurin, or Bobmcree or Patrick_mahoney

If you could have it that would help me to repair my 90% fried controller!

I have all equipment to repair it, i'm good in electronic.. BUT I HATE FETS!

I really dont want to reverse ingeneering all that pc board!! :shock:


Doc
 
All that i know is that the led come ON and the DB v2 too. for that I needed to remove all the IR2101, 12 fets, the HEF4073B (Triple 3-input AND gate) the 13005A transistor too....

i will check the 7805 tonight. some !n4007 seems to be shorted too

Doc
 
CGameProgrammer said:
Good at electronics? You hooked up the battery backwards! :)
Click to expand...

Yes i did.. for fun!........ :roll: i like to blow up 190$ controllers...

Seriously, it's not the subject of this post.

I want constructive attitude :wink:

Doc
 
Next week when I'm back at work I can try to reverse engineer that part of the voltage regulator.

I don't think the actual schematic is available anywhere (secret).
 
I can contribute to reverse engineer too.. after I will have completly repaired that controller for sure I will know it better!.

I wonder if Justin have it? or any plans?

When we will have draw the complete schematics of the c-lyte controller, that site will become more popular... bandwidth excess... etc.. 8)

Doc
 
Hi

If you have connected in reversed I would consider getting another one and keeping it for spares, you could end up spending as much trying to fix it only to have it blow again, I would get another controller, I have one that a customer connected backwards its beyond economical repair.

Just my advice after spending a lot of time fixing them! good luck.

Knoxie
 
What I dont understand is that people stick about reversed polarity here..

I just want to clarify something:

YES I connected it reversed.. the fuse blown, I repalced it and it worked but it worked fine 2-3 days after and I used it for 35km without any noise, lack of power or efficiency lost or high current draw.

The controller blown on normal use after that!... like if the fets was stressed or something like that...

I just connected the charged battery pack 3 days after and it blown.

IT NOT BLOWN IMMEDIATLY AFTER I REVERSED THE POLARITY... iw worked 3 days after!

Doc

any oppinions?
 
Doctorbass said:
The controller blown on normal use after that!... like if the fets was stressed or something like that...

Doc

any oppinions?
Click to expand...

I suspect when it got reversed, it took out one or more FETs, but they failed open (somewhat rare). Since they're in pairs, the other one could still be working, so the motor ran. With one of a pair open, all the current would be on the remaining FET, so it failed later. Once you get a shorted phase, then it goes into a cascading failure.


I think the guys are just razzing you for connecting the battery backward. Dumb mistake. I've done it several times. :oops:

It usually really messes things up.

The safety precharging circuit I now use on my Vego prevents failure due to reversed polarity, since the relay would not be able to pull in.
 
Doctorbass said:
What I dont understand is that people stick about reversed polarity here..

I just want to clarify something:

YES I connected it reversed.. the fuse blown, I repalced it and it worked but it worked fine 2-3 days after and I used it for 35km without any noise, lack of power or efficiency lost or high current draw.

The controller blown on normal use after that!... like if the fets was stressed or something like that...

I just connected the charged battery pack 3 days after and it blown.

IT NOT BLOWN IMMEDIATLY AFTER I REVERSED THE POLARITY... iw worked 3 days after!

Doc

any oppinions?
Click to expand...

Fechter's idea for a failure mode is one good posibility, but another is that the componants got stressed to there breaking point, but didn't fail immediatly. Later, after a few cycles of heat and current were run through them, the damaged wafers of silicon in the transistors, and microscopic traces in the ICs finaly started to fail. if everything was marginal, then one piece failing could cause a cascade failure in the whole system.

In any case, any situation that would cause a near total system failure like you describe isn't likely to leave some parts unhurt. If you have parts that are testing good now, they may be ready to fail at any time, and should be replaced as well.
 
Drunkskunk said:
Doctorbass said:
What I dont understand is that people stick about reversed polarity here..

I just want to clarify something:

YES I connected it reversed.. the fuse blown, I repalced it and it worked but it worked fine 2-3 days after and I used it for 35km without any noise, lack of power or efficiency lost or high current draw.

The controller blown on normal use after that!... like if the fets was stressed or something like that...

I just connected the charged battery pack 3 days after and it blown.

IT NOT BLOWN IMMEDIATLY AFTER I REVERSED THE POLARITY... iw worked 3 days after!

Doc

any oppinions?
Click to expand...

Fechter's idea for a failure mode is one good posibility, but another is that the componants got stressed to there breaking point, but didn't fail immediatly. Later, after a few cycles of heat and current were run through them, the damaged wafers of silicon in the transistors, and microscopic traces in the ICs finaly started to fail. if everything was marginal, then one piece failing could cause a cascade failure in the whole system.

In any case, any situation that would cause a near total system failure like you describe isn't likely to leave some parts unhurt. If you have parts that are testing good now, they may be ready to fail at any time, and should be replaced as well.
Click to expand...


That's why i'll buy all the fets, IR2101, KA3525 PWM, upc1246, fet high and low side transistor drivers, all 10r resistor and 20r resistors.. voltage regulator, maybe the two 358 amp op and the HEF4073 gate ic....

Unless someone suggest me a way to buy a new complete board.... i would keep the wire, box, and hardware...

Doc
 
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