hjns
100 kW
Hmm. No, not really. If I change anything, it will be going to a 24" and another Maxxis DH 2.5" tire. I just don't like the motorcycle look. It looks already too much like a motorcycle.....
Cromotor + MethTek Monster 24FET + 20S lipo build
- Thread starter hjns
- Start date
Tommy L
100 kW
I see that you are also doing some Off Road. Is the Cromotor too heavy of a feel?
I'm fighting over my next build. Thinking of Mid Drive scratch build (I TIG the frame) or Longtail (homemade from bicycle parts)
I started this post to get some other builders insight:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=50275
Regardless of what I do, I need an option/build that I can house the cells on the frame. I'm done carrying them in a BackPack.
Nice Videos! You bike looks great man!
Tommy L sends.....
I'm fighting over my next build. Thinking of Mid Drive scratch build (I TIG the frame) or Longtail (homemade from bicycle parts)
I started this post to get some other builders insight:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=50275
Regardless of what I do, I need an option/build that I can house the cells on the frame. I'm done carrying them in a BackPack.
Nice Videos! You bike looks great man!
Tommy L sends.....
hjns
100 kW
I think "some" off road is indeed the correct term. I don't do any jumps, and the bike is too heavy for the real technical stuff. I originally had planned for a lighter MTB build, but a backup citybike has priority now.
For that citybike, batteries will be in the front steering bar bag. Only 15S 10Ah of it, but it is enough. The aim there is really an easily accessible bike with an easily detachable battery for charging. And still go 45kmh.
For my cromotor commuter, the batteries are in the black-silver box within the triangle. It is a very snub fit, and I can take it from the bike for charging in the office. Triangle is good for 10kg 20S 13.5Ah of Lipo.. much better than your backpack....
For that citybike, batteries will be in the front steering bar bag. Only 15S 10Ah of it, but it is enough. The aim there is really an easily accessible bike with an easily detachable battery for charging. And still go 45kmh.
For my cromotor commuter, the batteries are in the black-silver box within the triangle. It is a very snub fit, and I can take it from the bike for charging in the office. Triangle is good for 10kg 20S 13.5Ah of Lipo.. much better than your backpack....
Tommy L
100 kW
If I run with 128v nominal A123, this is in my pack 12-15kg
It just fits into my Osprey 35L backpack. At 76.6v nom I use 6 cubes.
It just fits into my Osprey 35L backpack. At 76.6v nom I use 6 cubes.
hjns
100 kW
Lots of hard work, without a lot of visible results.
Got my hands on a used and leaking TALAS 36 front fork with 20mm axle. I replaced the seals with aftermarket Real World Cycling "Enduro" seals, refilled it with oil, and it is as good as new. This resulted in me getting a Halo Spin Doctor front hub and some double butted spokes. Spokes were a bit too long, so I shortened them and run them through my Hozan spoke threader to create new threads. Then rebuilt and trued the wheel so that I now have my Spin Doctor laced into my black Halo SAS 26" with these very thin spokes and a blue Formula 203mm disc. It looks great and is very light despite the heavy rim and tyre (Maxxis 2.7")!
Then I assembled the headset, put the front fork into the frame, put the front wheel into the fork, re-attached the speedo and the Formula RO calipers, and we are good to go. I will use my old spokes to lace a 24" wheel for my daughter's schoolbike based on a Kona Stinky frame and all kinds of nice white stuff and a very heavy lock. But that is for another build thread...
Got my hands on a used and leaking TALAS 36 front fork with 20mm axle. I replaced the seals with aftermarket Real World Cycling "Enduro" seals, refilled it with oil, and it is as good as new. This resulted in me getting a Halo Spin Doctor front hub and some double butted spokes. Spokes were a bit too long, so I shortened them and run them through my Hozan spoke threader to create new threads. Then rebuilt and trued the wheel so that I now have my Spin Doctor laced into my black Halo SAS 26" with these very thin spokes and a blue Formula 203mm disc. It looks great and is very light despite the heavy rim and tyre (Maxxis 2.7")!
Then I assembled the headset, put the front fork into the frame, put the front wheel into the fork, re-attached the speedo and the Formula RO calipers, and we are good to go. I will use my old spokes to lace a 24" wheel for my daughter's schoolbike based on a Kona Stinky frame and all kinds of nice white stuff and a very heavy lock. But that is for another build thread...
hillzofvalp
100 kW
How's my baby cromotor with modified inlets doing in Switserland? Pics? 
:wink:
...
:wink: ...
hjns
100 kW
hjns
100 kW
In the meantime, I also built my girl a schoolbike:
And one for my son:
Both are based on a strong FS frame, a good front fork, and 24" wheels, laced by yours truly. Both have hydraulic disc brakes (Elixer 3 and Juicy 7 from Ebay) and 203mm rotors, just for the fun of it.
And one for my son:
Both are based on a strong FS frame, a good front fork, and 24" wheels, laced by yours truly. Both have hydraulic disc brakes (Elixer 3 and Juicy 7 from Ebay) and 203mm rotors, just for the fun of it.
hjns
100 kW
Ouch
I have been commuting this summer with my fast FS bike, and doing the occasional forest track in my backyard forest. Last week, my hubbie felt wobbly. I checked the tire, rim, and spokes, they were fine. I checked the hub itself, no issues. I checked the frame, and whoops, the alu dropout has broken, just behind the "re-inforced" steel extension. Lesson learned: don't change the geometry of an alu frame unless you know what you are doing. But that is just not me...
Anyway, I needed an ebike to get me to work. I started at 8pm with this (old photo):
I then laced my old HT3525 into a 28" rim. I burned the hall sensors of this motor, and never bothered to replace them.
And at 2am I had this (photo taken next day:
So, the combi of an old citybike + HT3525 + 9FET sensorless minimonster (Lyen) + half throttle is still very enjoyable. I may even add a CAv3 and Thun torquesensor. At least, now I can continue building my Cromotorized BigHit.
I have been commuting this summer with my fast FS bike, and doing the occasional forest track in my backyard forest. Last week, my hubbie felt wobbly. I checked the tire, rim, and spokes, they were fine. I checked the hub itself, no issues. I checked the frame, and whoops, the alu dropout has broken, just behind the "re-inforced" steel extension. Lesson learned: don't change the geometry of an alu frame unless you know what you are doing. But that is just not me...
Anyway, I needed an ebike to get me to work. I started at 8pm with this (old photo):
I then laced my old HT3525 into a 28" rim. I burned the hall sensors of this motor, and never bothered to replace them.
And at 2am I had this (photo taken next day:
So, the combi of an old citybike + HT3525 + 9FET sensorless minimonster (Lyen) + half throttle is still very enjoyable. I may even add a CAv3 and Thun torquesensor. At least, now I can continue building my Cromotorized BigHit.
hjns
100 kW
Scott said:
I don't remember exactly at this moment, go back in my thread for the actual details. It was either 8AWG or 10AWG from HobbyKing.
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9676__Turnigy_Pure_Silicone_Wire_8AWG_1mtr_BLACK.html
hjns said:
Yes I saw that you used 10 AWG I just did not know if it was the hobby king wire or not. My cromotor v2 seems to have 10 AWG but I wonder if it would be better to replace it with the hobbyking flexible wire. The only problem I see is that the hobbyking wire is easer to slice through than the standard wire.
Thanks
