Komda Folding Rescued from Craiglist

DudeeBalls

100 mW
Joined
Apr 29, 2015
Messages
36
I just pickud up the Komda foldable electric bike from craigslist for $60 but it looks like someone sawed off the original rear rack, yanked the motor wires out of the axle they were coming from by their roots and stole the battery and controller. I knew it'd be a real fixer upper but I guess I'm gonna prolly have to call Komda and see where I can get the original controller since it seems to use a proprietary connection (or cut off their connector and connect regular connectors to all the wires) and also open the motor (which from the three missing screws it has in it someone has probably started/done before) and connect new wires to all the necessary parts. Can anyone tell me the specs on the motor? When I looked up the 24swx01-150 Model number I'm only able to find some youtube video called Alien Bikes 250w Electric Bicycle Suzhou Bafang Motor and only when I omit the -150. You may have to right click on some of the pics and click open image in new tab due to their size (I wanted to make sure everything was clearly visible so I took big pics but not nearly as big as the first ones from my first topic in this forum those were to huge).
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Some of the geared hubs have a screw-off sideplate, but it "looks like" you have easier kind, where you remove some screws and pop the sideplate off. I'm going to guess that this was run at 24V, which would actually work OK for legal speed limits, because the smaller diameter tires increase the torque of whatever amount of watts you apply to it. The suspension components looks to be "entry level" quality and performance, but...it should actually work much better than the common folders, which typically have no suspension at all. Well worth $60 to me. If you don't need a lot of upscale features, the controllers are quite affordable. A higher top speed could be achieved by going to a 36V system, if you want (consider before buying a particular controller).

Take a quick look at these tear-down thread pics to get an idea of what it would entail:

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=51237

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=51310
 
Motor looks like Q128 with some broken housing screws. Can you measure flange diameter? If 128mm, it's probably a Q128. Fairly high RPM (20" wheels) I would guess.

Not a bad frame even if you need to replace the entire electric driveline.
 
I was surprised at how empty the motor cavity appeared to be and no wire, magnets or circuit boards in sight. Did someone hollow out some of the components when they yanked the wires out or is everything housed deep inside that component with the gears attached to it? If so how do I get it open and does it look like it would be worth it and functional? Perhaps whoever yanked the cables out did so because they knew the motor was beyond repair. I was also surprised o at how chipped up the metal is on the inside of the motor. On a less important side note does anyone know what kind of rear brake that cable was designed for? I asked at a local bike shop and they said considering the cable and the threading on that side of the hub they think it's meant for a drum brake or roller brake no really sure which. To see full pic either click on them or zoom way out.





Brake:
 
PRetty wierd; looks like they gutted an ebike to turn it into a regular bike, takign all the "dead" weight out of it when it stopped working, at a guess.

That probably used to be a typical geared hubmotor, until they destroyed it. If the clutch/gearset works it might be usable for repairing a similar motor, but otherwise you might as well put a regular bike wheel in there and save the weight of the motor casing and clutch. :/

Looks like you got gypped unless you just needed a folding bike to convert. :(
 
Worst case I could convert it in the future and have my own discount/poormans Brompton electric bike. Maybe even turn it into a mid drive if I can figure out how the freewheeling dual chain cranksets work exactly so I can have my local third world bike shop make me one on the cheap. Or maybe I could just get an old Shimano FF Crank and use it with a mid drive just don't know if it would work since I don't fully understand how it works nor the difference between a regular old school freewheeling crank and cyclone's kind (other than the cost).
 
I bought a Currie Electro Drive XYD-6A2 300w 24V 18A. Is there any chance I can put its guts into this gutted geared hub shell? If so could someone point me in the right direction for info on said project. Also Is there any way to determine the pin out of the DB15 connector that Komda put on this bike (preferably without tearing it open or cutting it off but rather just putting a mating DB15 on it)? I only ask cause it already has an on/off switch on the left of the handlebar and a throttle with led battery indicator on the right and it seems like a waste to spend at least $30 on ebay to order parts from china that I already have. I'm planning on buying a 24v 350w version of the YK31C controller (Yiyun Tech) from China on ebay. Does 350w sound like to much cause it's a 300w motor or should I be getting the 500w version since that's closer to the 432w that 24v x 18a actually equals? Which brings me to another question why is the motor rated at 300w despite it being 24v x 18a (432w)?

On a separate note I've been trying to decide what to do if I don't replace the guts of the geared hub. I'd really like to get a freewheeling crankset with triple chainring so I can make the Komda into a mid drive bike but including shipping it like $200 regardless of whether I get it from Cyclone or ebay. The only other reasonable option I can think of it connecting the motor to a freewheel on a dual drive hub but not only would that not take advantage of a mid drives physics but dual drive hubs cost almost as much as a freewheel cranksets anyway.

As far as batteries are concerned I'm thinking of creating a battery box so I can remove the 18650 easily as needed but I need to find where to get the kinda of battery contacts that tend to come in SMT 1860 battery holders like the one in the pic below.
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