1000 watt hours per side.
- Thread starter DogDipstick
- Start date
eMark
100 kW
Couldn't help but smile when i read the following PA state ebike ordinance...calab said:One can never do with too little watt-hours
... wondering if he is ever concerned about being pulled over and having his awesome ebike confiscated. Not a chance as his powerful ebike weighs under 100lbs and definitely has operable pedals.
Sometimes for safety reasons a burst of speed is necessary to avoid an accident.
eMark said:
It's no surprise that bike stores restricted to selling slow ebikes/ebike parts are going to tell you front motors are popular. You don't run into the litany of problems with front motors until you start going beyond 20mph or want/need front suspension. Those kinds of shops don't have the same 'engineering experiences' we do here.
Chalo
100 TW
john61ct said:
Are you not paying attention? Do you not live in a city? Rental e-bikes outnumber private e-bikes by a huge margin, and they all have front hubs.
I've done a lot more front hub motor conversions for people than anything else. It just makes sense if you want the bike to work all the time, and you want the wheel to last. Mid drives are a hobby (or service department subscription), and rear hub motors put a weak wheel where you need a strong one. Rear hub motors also take away a lot of useful drivetrain options.
My front hubs max out at about 1800W electrical, and have transformed my e-bike life from much more maintenance-intensive than pedal bikes to significantly less.
I agree if you're one of the riders who "needs" hydraulic disc brakes for no reason, "needs" dual suspension for no reason, "needs" an FOC controller for no reason, "needs" super fat tires for no reason... then you probably "need" rear wheel drive for no reason as well. But if your needs are practical, like those of rental e-bike fleets, then you can use a front hub motor like they do, with similarly satisfactory results.
My first couple of ebikes were FWD but I have no regrets switching to RWD. I didn't like how the front mounted motor made the front of the bike so heavy. If I have to have a motor that twists it's way out of the dropouts, I'd rather it be mounted on the front wheel.
eMark
100 kW
At first read it seemed like a contradicton. Then after reading again and again (slow learner) it made some sense.nicobie said:
So a throttle assisted MTB with front hub motor has an advantage over a throttle assisted MTB with a rear hub motor when taking on challenging terrain (e.g. dropouts) ??
If a motor is going to fall off I would rather it be a rear motor than a front.
I wouldn't. If it left the fork, or jammed against the fork so it coudln't spin, it'd flip the bike and rider on their head, or eject them into traffic (or the path, etc).nicobie said:
If this happened on the rear, you'd skid out or slide, but at least not flip.
amberwolf said:I wouldn't. If it left the fork, or jammed against the fork so it coudln't spin, it'd flip the bike and rider on their head, or eject them into traffic (or the path, etc).nicobie said:
If this happened on the rear, you'd skid out or slide, but at least not flip.
Exactly
DogDipstick
100 kW
eMark said:
Yup its at ~100~102 lbs, and has operable pedals. This was one of my design goals, and was met. Yes, i knew about the 100lb rule. I specifically tried to keep it under 90 lbs with the little motor, and was at ~85lbs all up.. and with the bigger battery and heavy motor, I am right at 100 lbs. I kept a close eye on that 100lb rule. I certainly knew it was there.
I do not worry much about the length of cable runs, it is all 6AWG in the power system.
I come from traditional motorcycling since my XR75 in 1984. All (most all) motorcycles are rear wheel driven, so I am used to that handling. I have the pack so far front so I do not pop wheelies all the time. First time I rode this bike with a backpack battery i looped it and spend the day in the hospital.. so I put the weight forward and as far forward as I could... Then dealt with the wheel travel problems.
I have hundereds of hours, maybe a thousand or two, over near 40 years of riding. ... on real rocket bikes, and love that lurch that you get halfway in the turn flicked in, leaning, and hit the throttle.. and lift the front wheel in the turn.. but it is dangerous. So I try to get the weight dist. as close to 50/50 as I can. It is probally 40% front now, 60% rear, not optimal but still alotta fun. I like a flickable, floppy bar to flick ito the turn fast. This is where you need the traction on the front.. with the distribution or else your front tire just skips over and floats... into the turn. You want it loaded hard if you are leaned into the edge of traction.. something my weight dist. cannot do.
I have been taught that the rear tire is more important for traction, than the front, on a motorcycle. Except when braking in a racing situation. I always try to make sure I have a fresh rear tire, and if I have to make a budgetary compromise, I get new treads on the rear, not the front, if they are both worn out and must replace only one at a time ( budget). Something about how the bike gives feedback with good traction surfaces on the tires. Would rather have a good rear, than a good front, when riding on a frozen lake. An anchor, of stability, so to speak. Rear vs front drive. I am not going fast enough to cup a front tire either. Nothing is pushing that hard.
I rode a stock Super83 today, a ~3500$ pooch of a bike. Right before I tore it down for a customers build ( Mechanic Jp here). All the Super73 stuff is sold. Thing was damn slow and a shaky ride.. unbalanced spoked rims, loud geared hub motor, on a 3500$ retail bike. 900wH battery, 25mph on the flat, 20mph uphill, 30mph downhill bike. Pooch. Brakes were nice but poorly tuned and clacking the spokes on a hard application.
I have had a full speed blowout at 55mph on this bike. I dont ride that fast near the edge of the road anymore. Nope. Tore up the rim, tube got 8 punctures... flapflapflap. Retained control, sliding to a stop, bouncing. Kinda scary but I lived. I thought I was done. Would have been right over the bars if it had been the front tire.
My plan if my bike gets confiscated? Pay a fine.. and.. in the meanwhile...
Get the next one off the wall and go for a ride. I certainly have enough parts here including a Cromotor, 18" rims and tires, frames, and Cycle Analysts. Banshee and Ironhorse frames to choose from. ~6kWh of cells.. and about 6 controllers to choose from. MT5 brakes. Hubs ready to lace. Spokes in a box that fit. Diety bars and Marzocchi forks. Three or four cranks. Waiting for that (possible) day. I have been stockpiling ebike parts.
I really try to go by the notion that if you dont start no shit, there wont be no shit. Stay far away from all highways, and people in general.. and yes it is tough, and I may be tagged some day by an Officer who did not get his morning coffee and needs to take it out on me... I really try not to go full dumbo and go fast on roads with alot of traffic, in school zones, any major roads.
I also have a backup BBS02. Lol.
Something has come up. Some of you might guess what has happened.. but... I will post what happened in about a month, when I know, whether this bike has much longer to live.. Or not. .. but.. lets just say I found some professional help to get me though these hard times... I am having. I have to tear the bike down and fix a few items: Wear is getting bad. Goal is to eventually install the Adaptto MaxE I have here, with its greater current handling and the FOC that might get me up to 70mph loaded. I have to prep for this. We will see. I might just have to build an entirely new bike. Then I am giving up on speed, and building a torky mid drive I think. So far, this (3kW rated) QS motor has taken the 4.5kW just fine and has not been over 55*C on the shell casing. It is a great commuter.
Rear tire, with the (old) V1, 35h, 205, 1000w hub motor lasted almost two whole years of riding full time. With its 17lbs.
This motor, the (new) 50H, 205, with its extra 13lbs... Same rim, same tire, same spokes... ~20mph greater top end speed...
Tire lasted three months. Lol.
DogDipstick
100 kW
DogDipstick
100 kW
DogDipstick
100 kW
DogDipstick
100 kW
DogDipstick
100 kW
Just hanging round. Everything is normal round here. Yup.
Mmmmm Pearly.
Mmmmm Pearly.
DogDipstick
100 kW
Nurse the lil bike back to health. New stickers and grips. Reassemble. A real tensioner, and lost the cables and shifters.Test rides.
If you love something set it free. If it comes back it was meant to be.
View attachment 6
THE END
If you love something set it free. If it comes back it was meant to be.
View attachment 6THE END
Attachments
Talk about a pocket rocket!
Well done!
Well done!
DogDipstick
100 kW
Thank you both. I noticed it shortly after I installed the bigger motor.. This year. .... and went up to the 55-60mph range in top speed. Probally near the beginning of the summer. It has been about three months since I first began watching. It did not grow until I put the heavier, larger 25Ah battery in place of the 15Ah battery slung under the bottom tube. Then it began to grow, and I knew I had to do something about it.
I had read, at the same time, for the places to look on this frame, and the head tube was one of them. So I knew where to look. There is like a 30+ page thread on the MTB forum about this frame, and this happens to someone on this frame in the early years of this frame.
When I made THIS post thread, ( the one we are talking in now), I knew about it, but someone had asked to post a bunch of the pics of my current battery build, and I did. I was in the process of finding a skilled weldor.
I was already planning a month ago for the tear down and to find a professional welder. I found him, ( "Sure no prob") and got the entire dissassy done, the frame blasted, cleaned, and welded, then the rebuild took about two weeks. He had the frame for four days and charged me 150$. It is much stiffer now, you can feel it while riding. The gussets are 7005 plate, on the 7005 frame welded with 5356 wire. I was and still am worried I may have to mod a new frame, but this seems to have stopped any cracking. Yes, they (the stress cracks) were drilled out at the ends, gouged out well, and replaced with the filler. A crack was found on the bottom of the rear swingarm too, right between the two chainstays, probably from the frame flexing here for years. Also gouged out and welded. I cannot see any obvious defect now. We will see how long it lasts.
I had read, at the same time, for the places to look on this frame, and the head tube was one of them. So I knew where to look. There is like a 30+ page thread on the MTB forum about this frame, and this happens to someone on this frame in the early years of this frame.
When I made THIS post thread, ( the one we are talking in now), I knew about it, but someone had asked to post a bunch of the pics of my current battery build, and I did. I was in the process of finding a skilled weldor.
I was already planning a month ago for the tear down and to find a professional welder. I found him, ( "Sure no prob") and got the entire dissassy done, the frame blasted, cleaned, and welded, then the rebuild took about two weeks. He had the frame for four days and charged me 150$. It is much stiffer now, you can feel it while riding. The gussets are 7005 plate, on the 7005 frame welded with 5356 wire. I was and still am worried I may have to mod a new frame, but this seems to have stopped any cracking. Yes, they (the stress cracks) were drilled out at the ends, gouged out well, and replaced with the filler. A crack was found on the bottom of the rear swingarm too, right between the two chainstays, probably from the frame flexing here for years. Also gouged out and welded. I cannot see any obvious defect now. We will see how long it lasts.
nicobie said:Talk about a pocket rocket!
Well done!
99t4 said:
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