60v charger touched metal and now won’t work…help!!!!

bcsports524

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So I have a 60v e-bike charger that the PCb is exposed and it came into contact with a piece of metal while charging then it sparked and stopped charging now it won’t work no red or green light, how do I diagnose the PCb to find out where the problem lies?
 
Whihc specific part of it touched metal, and which specific part of it sparked?

You'll need to take good clear pictures of both side of the board and mark these with that info and post them here.

it might not tell us anything useful but it is the only starting point there is right now.

alternately you can start measuring the circuits for voltage from the output back to the input and see where the voltage stops.

or check for fuses, breakers, etc

unfortuantely smps are complicated and not necessarily easy to troubleshoot, as it is not all just straight dc voltages--there is siwtching and control signals and whatnot in the guts in the middle bertween ac input and dc output. .
 
So I have a 60v e-bike charger that the PCb is exposed and it came into contact with a piece of metal while charging then it sparked and stopped charging now it won’t work no red or green light, how do I diagnose the PCb to find out where the problem lies?
Whihc specific part of it touched metal, and which specific part of it sparked?

You'll need to take good clear pictures of both side of the board and mark these with that info and post them here.

it might not tell us anything useful but it is the only starting point there is right now.

alternately you can start measuring the circuits for voltage from the output back to the input and see where the voltage stops.

or check for fuses, breakers, etc

unfortuantely smps are complicated and not necessarily easy to troubleshoot, as it is not all just straight dc voltages--there is siwtching and control signals and whatnot in the guts in the middle bertween ac input and dc output. .
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Whihc specific part of it touched metal, and which specific part of it sparked?

You'll need to take good clear pictures of both side of the board and mark these with that info and post them here.

it might not tell us anything useful but it is the only starting point there is right now.

alternately you can start measuring the circuits for voltage from the output back to the input and see where the voltage stops.

or check for fuses, breakers, etc

unfortuantely smps are complicated and not necessarily easy to troubleshoot, as it is not all just straight dc voltages--there is siwtching and control signals and whatnot in the guts in the middle bertween ac input and dc output. .
It’s showing 120v ac on the power cord but nothing on the charging plug
 
Good luck with it.

First, check the fuse to see if it is blown.

2nd: look for any component that is visibly blown.

3rd: Get a schematic of the charger somehow.

4th: Purchase a new charger while you take the time to repair this one.

5th: slowly trace the voltage from the wall into the charger and through the components until you have found what has blown. You will at least need a DMM and some experience on how battery chargers work.

My recommendation from similar experiences it to buy a new charger while you are fixing the old one. Once you fix the old one you will have a back-up charger.

:)
⚡
 
Why is your pcb exposed while charging? If you have no electronics experience, just buy a new charger.
If you do have smps repair experience, you wouldn't be asking.
 
Since the part that touched metal is a heatsink, not an active electronics part, but it still arced and burned it, we'll need to know what that metal that was touched was wired up to.

As much detail of exactly what the situation was, and exactly what happened, could be helpful.

If the heatsink is not electrically isolated from the parts bolted to it, then those parts would have had current flow thru the heatsink to whatever it was it touched and arced to, and those parts could be damaged. If you want to do a "blind" repair you can just look up the part numbers that are on those parts and buy new ones from Digikey, Mouser, or Farnell, for instance, and see what happens, but for now there is still not enough info to help you fix it.

Other than that, I can suggest again that you measure voltages of the circuits from output back to input and see what you read, not *just* the output and the input, and document what you get at each point (perhaps on a copy of the pictures of the device).

If you can't or wont' measure at the parts inside, you will not be able to test, troubleshoot, and repair this unit (or anything else).
 
a couple of melted solder pads in the lower right corner, id check the components the legs belong to and replace and reflow, something in that area got very hot and probably died? Never have anything connected to mains open like that tho, if the original case is broken box it anything insulating with strain relief on the power cord.

If your charger is hot on its heatsinks??? i would certainly enclose it, be grateful it was some random bit of metal and not you that came into contact with it..
 
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