cwah
100 MW
Created another thread for that.
72v 1500W 40A Hua Tong CA08 XM06AD_P04.1 controller
- Thread starter wesnewell
- Start date
Beachcruzer
100 W
Anybody seen these lately for less than $47 landed in the USA? Best I've found today: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/72V-...ctric-Bikes-High-Quality-OT100/287758466.html
Beachcruzer
100 W
Haha, thanks. I'm gonna hold out for that nickel, dammit.
Seriously though, are the 30-something dollar ones long gone?
Seriously though, are the 30-something dollar ones long gone?
Damn...
When i found this thread I thought I had found the answers!
my controller is a chip/pcb by bolee and then its populated with fets elsewhere and sold, seems to match 90% of whats in this thread but.........
on the bench its running fine, take it out and after 10-15 seconds it trips out.. this 10-15 seconds gets shorter and shorter till its like only 3-5 seconds, and I get 7 flashes.....
oh well.....
When i found this thread I thought I had found the answers!
my controller is a chip/pcb by bolee and then its populated with fets elsewhere and sold, seems to match 90% of whats in this thread but.........
on the bench its running fine, take it out and after 10-15 seconds it trips out.. this 10-15 seconds gets shorter and shorter till its like only 3-5 seconds, and I get 7 flashes.....
oh well.....
Paul.............D
100 W
flez1966 said:
Check your battery voltage to make sure it is not sagging under load to low voltage cut off.
Paul
Paul.............D
100 W
[/quote]
It blew a bank of fets, i think one may have been iffy and eventually went short, now trying to find ''cheap and genuine'' 4110's in the uk.... about $8 each is best at the minute....[/quote]
Buy a controller of zenid on this forum he is in the uk same as us it will work out cheaper, i have had one off him for testing never blew it up yet and they had the better fets in quick delivery
http://zenid10.wordpress.com/category/zenids-shop/
Paul
It blew a bank of fets, i think one may have been iffy and eventually went short, now trying to find ''cheap and genuine'' 4110's in the uk.... about $8 each is best at the minute....[/quote]
Buy a controller of zenid on this forum he is in the uk same as us it will work out cheaper, i have had one off him for testing never blew it up yet and they had the better fets in quick delivery
http://zenid10.wordpress.com/category/zenids-shop/
Paul
I think it advice better don't. Just add a power switch Box. Just off it !. By just going to connect power all the way to controller, I think the controller will have some Heat. can try for few hours and see , if the controller stay hot or not. as for me, i will not do that. So far, i have never read anyone says " I put my power to the controller 24/7.. will this really damage the caps silently. ? or will it really blow? Must see who has done that ?
both mine are powered 24/7, and i just use the ignition wire.
do they drain the batter this way, yes, about like guessing 0.05% per night..... they only thing powered is the smoothing caps and the mosfets which leak so tiny amounts i cant measure it on my meter
do they drain the batter this way, yes, about like guessing 0.05% per night..... they only thing powered is the smoothing caps and the mosfets which leak so tiny amounts i cant measure it on my meter
wesnewell
100 GW
AFAIK, all controllers use a small amount of power when left connected to the battery. They're just like any other electronic device you have in the house. Left plugged in they draw a minimal amount of power. I always disconnect one side when I get off the bike for more than a few minutes. It doesn't use much, but will ruin your battery by draining it to 0V over time.knighty said:
wesnewell said:
Yes I think it will, but like i said, its so small it can hardly be measured, and it will add up say over a few weeks, I use mine almost daily and have had no problems, the wife uses hers daily in the week and often leaves it all weekend, not yet seen an issue with batteries being flat etc.
maybe some controllers take more power in 'standby' than others? best way to find out is try it and see, with a full charge leave it for a few hours and check it, and keep checking every few hours, if the pack starts to go down you know you cant leave it
Gordo
100 kW
kentlim26 said:
If caps are damaged it will be with the inrush or large outflow of current, not while connected for long periods of time.
thanks. i solve the in rush current by going throu a resistor 10watt 100ohm and you will see spark, noise will be entire gone. 48v ~ 65v it works. i have also try 98v throu a 10watt 200ohm, i think the spark will be gone, but this i haven't find out yet. some will use mosfets and build a circuit to the controller, soft switch. i hope you can try to find this out regarding about this 10watts 100ohm, or 200ohm, and there i build inside a switch Box no2. is a main power into the controller = hence No more in rush current
ken
ken
Gordo
100 kW
kentlim26 said:
98V and I think you will make popcorn!
i really did that , Half eye closed.. so i really run this volt 98v go thro this switch A, thro a 10watts resistor 100 ohm. i had even thought this will give me a LOUD spark POK or sound more like a gun fire" .. but to my surprise, Oh.. NO Sound and just a tiny spark, from power to the controller.I had only scare myself 
In my box has two switches, A and B. so some current has gone to the caps, i On my switch B . I have recently bought this greentime controller for some fun to run near 100v. 16cells + 10cells lipos, all fresh charge, volts was also tested. I want to find out the Number ? how fast ? not fast enough, my goal to reach at least 80km/h, but done only 74.5km/h. i think the 10cells lipos are not giving enough amps, is just only 5amps
16cells of lifepo4 + 6cells of lipos 10amps , i can get 70km/h .
16cells of lifepo4 + 9 or 10cells of lipos 10amps ? speed ? i will know once i order some more lipos
In my box has two switches, A and B. so some current has gone to the caps, i On my switch B . I have recently bought this greentime controller for some fun to run near 100v. 16cells + 10cells lipos, all fresh charge, volts was also tested. I want to find out the Number ? how fast ? not fast enough, my goal to reach at least 80km/h, but done only 74.5km/h. i think the 10cells lipos are not giving enough amps, is just only 5amps 16cells of lifepo4 + 6cells of lipos 10amps , i can get 70km/h .
16cells of lifepo4 + 9 or 10cells of lipos 10amps ? speed ? i will know once i order some more lipos
Gordo
100 kW
There is nothing wrong with learning by doing. Much more valuable than my armchair comments. As long as you are not too far from home when the plasma attack happens. good luck and please keep us informed.
Thanks
Thanks
flez1966 said:
I haven't open these controller. i bought the controller from Greentime, 18fets 4110, 60amps . I can trust 100% is very likely a geninue fets 4110 from greentime. They are own and tested by respected members methods, John in CR. my caps is likely to be 100v, but my request for this controller must able to work for 16cells ~ 24cells. 48v ~ 100v. i have tested on 48v run, the pick up power is good, top speed is only 53.3km/h, my best choice speed for now i think is still 55km/h 35mph - fast and is safe.
kentlim26 said:
Ahh I had not known where you had got it, I thought it was off ebay etc from one of the many suppliers of controllers.
/needs to follow own advice... I just bought fets off ebay, although it does say 'genuine' and where £1.95 / $3.50 each so..... ('Real' suppliers here are £5 each/ $ 7 etc)
I've got a controller problem... ish
on the way into work today, in the rain... I lost all power... it's done it before... my bodged wiring joining the bike to the controller gets wet and I lose power...
15min of peddling later and power came back fine.... got to work all ok... worked fine at work
figured I'd sort the wiring out... so I've soldered and heat shrinked all the wires now... but I've lost all power
I took the controller apart and removed all the wires I didn't need (orange and yellow)
put it back together and soldered up the wires for throttle and ebreak
tested it there and it still worked... tho I didn't ride it, just lifted the back tyre and spun the wheel
then I soldered up the motor and hall wires... and now Ive lost all power
I've got 8 motor wires
(thin)
red to red
black to black
green to yellow
yellow to green
blue to blue
(thick)
blue to blue
green to green
yellow to yellow
I'm sure I've got the thin hall wires right, because I chopped off the connector on them with a little bit of wire sticking out so I can still check them
I was sure the motor wires were right like that.... but I've tried swapping the blue and yellow as someone did earlier in this thread and it made no difference
battery voltage right now is 79.7volts
when I check the power out of the controller to the ebreaks/power switch... it's moving around all over.... between about 27 and 79... but slowly
got 27v into and out of the power on siwtch
got power back from the power switch to turn controller on
ebreaks test ok
I did get a small spark when I had the controller disconnected and sitting on the bench to remove the extra wires... spark between some lose connectors coming out of it... not sure which ones (and it did work after this)
any ideas anyone ? what can/should I test for ?
on the way into work today, in the rain... I lost all power... it's done it before... my bodged wiring joining the bike to the controller gets wet and I lose power...
15min of peddling later and power came back fine.... got to work all ok... worked fine at work
figured I'd sort the wiring out... so I've soldered and heat shrinked all the wires now... but I've lost all power
I took the controller apart and removed all the wires I didn't need (orange and yellow)
put it back together and soldered up the wires for throttle and ebreak
tested it there and it still worked... tho I didn't ride it, just lifted the back tyre and spun the wheel
then I soldered up the motor and hall wires... and now Ive lost all power
I've got 8 motor wires
(thin)
red to red
black to black
green to yellow
yellow to green
blue to blue
(thick)
blue to blue
green to green
yellow to yellow
I'm sure I've got the thin hall wires right, because I chopped off the connector on them with a little bit of wire sticking out so I can still check them
I was sure the motor wires were right like that.... but I've tried swapping the blue and yellow as someone did earlier in this thread and it made no difference
battery voltage right now is 79.7volts
when I check the power out of the controller to the ebreaks/power switch... it's moving around all over.... between about 27 and 79... but slowly
got 27v into and out of the power on siwtch
got power back from the power switch to turn controller on
ebreaks test ok
I did get a small spark when I had the controller disconnected and sitting on the bench to remove the extra wires... spark between some lose connectors coming out of it... not sure which ones (and it did work after this)
any ideas anyone ? what can/should I test for ?
wesnewell
100 GW
If you have a GM motor (HBS-xxVxxxxW) then you have the thick (phase) wires wrong. They should be the same as the thin (hall) wires.
(thin)
red to red
black to black
green to yellow
yellow to green
blue to blue
(thick)
blue to blue
green to yellow
yellow to green
(thin)
red to red
black to black
green to yellow
yellow to green
blue to blue
(thick)
blue to blue
green to yellow
yellow to green
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