$99 steel 7-sp fatbike on sale, walmart (now $175)

[spinningmagnets]

OK, I know Walmart makes crap...the components are the cheapest possible, and they are evil. That being said...

Be aware it has RIM brakes. Probably the "Happy Quality Sunshine" brand that is normally specced for the 16-inch girls "My Little Pony" edition.

The Kent Devastator is a steel framed fatbike with the common 4-inch wide fat tires. The problem is that...they got a bad batch of rims, or bad tires, or...both (I suspect the rims). When customers have been airing them up to 35-PSI, the tires are coming off the rims, and customers are returning them to the store. I am fairly certain they are going to stop carrying this model due to this fiasco, but for the time being...you can get a steel fatbike frame with a seven speed derailleur hangar for $99 while they are dumping them.

If you were thinking about upgrading every part anyways (brakes, derailleur, hubmotor wheels), or maybe making a 2WD fatbike? It just doesn't get any cheaper than this. Its posted as being steel, I'm betting its recycled North Korean steel beer cans.

I suppose it may be possible to upgrade both brakes, who knows? (maybe a regen Yescom DD hub?) If you are looking for things to like about this frame, check out the air-space between the seat-tube and the rear tire. This means this frame has a wheelbase that is a couple inches longer than the average BSO fatbike (Mongoose Dolomite, etc). Plus it looks to have a slightly more relaxed head-tube angle than whats common.

Did I mention Walmart fatbikes are crap? if you get one of these and then post back to angrily inform me that it is a crap fatbike, well...OK. Thanks for the info.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/26-Kent-Men-s-Devastator-Fat-Tire-Bike-Multiple-Colors/40627141

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em3ev.com makes MAC geared hub motors in a fat rim
http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=207

Kinaye will build a MXUS DD hubmotor into a fat rim
http://kinaye-motorsports.myshopify.com/products/fat-bike-front-wheel-with-bicycle-hub

HEH will sell you fat-tire kits for FWD, RWD or 2WD
http://www.human-electric-hybrids.com/products.html

 

[Hillhater]

Come on SM..
Go buy them all and resell them on EBay for 200% margin to the cool kids down at the beach who would never be seen at Wallyworld. 8)

 

[docw009]

No beach where I live, but lots of snow. Are they any good in snow?

 

[spinningmagnets]

They can be...Read this guy Karl:

http://electric-fatbike.com/

 

[slowhands]

The tires seem to be the weak point. Many but not all buyers say they fall off the rear wheel. Users may be over-inflating them, more than say 15-20 lbs. The traction and smooth ride of a fat bike depend on soft tires, with low air pressure. Some buyers love this bike, so it maybe they followed directions about tire pressure and sidestepped the issue. For $100, this is worth a look.

I have seen this on 24 inch tires rated for 45 lbs (cheap tires). If you over inflate, the tire flops off the wheel. So I don't. And they don't.

That said, if the tires really are bad, replacements are not cheap and must be added to the real price of the bike. New tires are $40 and up. It may be wiser to pay a bit more for the bottom of the line Mongoose, which seems to be well liked and have good tires. It's more, about $250. A Mongoose Vinson is much nicer but $600. You do get what you pay for.

 

[MrDude_1]

are you sure its not the lip of the tire failing, or the rim flexing? I would hate to have the tire come off the rim at speed.

 

[MadRhino]

Cheap crap. The steel rims are crooked in the box and each weight as much as a DH fork. A friend bought 2 of them, nothing is good on those. Does someone believe you can buy a complete fatbike for the price of one good tire, that is not built with total crap on the cheapest frame. Then, I have no doubt someone is gonna build an 40 Mph ebike on it, and hope that he survives the lesson.

 

[dogman dan]

Meh, I went to interbike primarily to get a chance to ride fat bikes. None of them rode great to me, except for the ones with a good suspension fork. And that frame has a 1" head set I bet.

But if you do live at the beach, or ski area, a different story of course. The interbike test trails were near identical to my home terrain, and I just was not impressed by the fat tires much.

I'd like to see a mid fat bike though, 3 inch in back, 2.5 in front. Or rather, I wish I could afford one. I'm sure there are DH bikes that can handle a 3 inch rear tire.

 

[MadRhino]

I'm sure there are DH bikes that can handle a 3 inch rear tire.

Most of them DH racing frames pre-2009 do clear a 3.0 tire, and many were made to tune both 24 and 26 in RR wheels.

Fatbikes are harsh ride because most are not FS frames, and those that are do use minimal suspension components. It is a common misconception that fat tires can replace suspension. Fatbikes are made basically to ride slow on soft surface, neither the frames or tires are up to the task to speed mountain trails in the summer.

 

[chas58]

Full suspension? Really?

I rode one off road with about 10psi in the tires and no suspension, and it was amazing. It would roll over anything. I'm not sure that I want a bike that is that un-nimble, but it was an impressive ride. Felt more like riding a tank than a mountain bike, but the the ride I had surely didn't need a suspension.

I guess if you are doing 25+ mph, you might want a little more air in the tires, then a suspension would be userful...

 

[chas58]

looks like the link has it going for $175 now...

 

[slowhands]

Supply and demand. Now the price is $228.

You gotta wonder if they remedied the known problems with the tires and wheels, or just said screw it, these sell as is, no problem. We're walmart, and people buy our junk no matter how crappy.

I'd say the Mongoose Malus at Kohls (same $$) is a better deal.

 

[docw009]

I got snagged by the $99 one. It should ship next week. Gonna to ride it a bit around in winter to stay in biking shape. Should be a great workout pushing it 5 miles back home if the tires flip off.

 

[Chalo]

Full suspension? Really?

I rode one off road with about 10psi in the tires and no suspension, and it was amazing. It would roll over anything. I'm not sure that I want a bike that is that un-nimble, but it was an impressive ride. Felt more like riding a tank than a mountain bike, but the the ride I had surely didn't need a suspension.

I find it baffling that almost every fatbike that comes into my shop has been aired to maximum pressure. It's like folks see "max 35 psi" on the tire sidewall and don't bother to think any further. At that point, you might as well be riding on truck tires. In the real world, even 10 psi is more than necessary.

Lots of people, it seems, don't just need the observable results of suspension on ride quality and capability. They need the feedback of mechaical suspension squooshing around to be convinced that it's working. It's the same folks who insist that hydraulic brakes are soooo much stronger than cable discs or rim brakes, when in fact any of them will stand the bike right on its nose. At that point, it's about fetish rather than performance, and there is no persuading them otherwise.

 

[Dauntless]

I find it baffling that almost every fatbike that comes into my shop has been aired to maximum pressure. . . At that point, it's about fetish rather than performance, and there is no persuading them otherwise.

What's the point in spending so much for something different if you can't spend even more to make it just like everything else?

 

[MrDude_1]

It's the same folks who insist that hydraulic brakes are soooo much stronger than cable discs or rim brakes, when in fact any of them will stand the bike right on its nose. At that point, it's about fetish rather than performance, and there is no persuading them otherwise.

slightly off topic buuttttt...
a stick through the spokes would also stop a wheel. the point of better brakes is control of stopping power.

at low speed, there isnt much power required. momentum is power in this case.. but its low. so rubber blocks on the rim work.
add in a heavy rider with 40lbs of battery/motor and higher speed... and now those rubber blocks cant handle the power and they melt... however a simple mechanical disc stops well. it can handle more power, and remain controllable.
now.. add in more weight or MUCH higher speed.. and that disc will have to be squeezed very hard. squeezing hard is hard to modulate between "sliding"(good) and "stopping" (bad).. you want the wheel to keep turning, not lock up.
hydraulic brakes give you that extra mechanical advantage so you dont have to squeeze hard, and you can use a fine finger tip to stop....
As an extreme example, they're what let me take a 400lb sportbike and balance it from 180mph down to 40 using just my pointer finger. (on a track, not street) I only have one finger working, with a second there for backup... yet it hauls down from speed so fast that its hard to wrap your head around... the same applies for much lower speeds on bicycles with thinner tires.. think downhill riding or fast ebike usage. THAT is the proper application. Maybe I am just biased because of years riding motorcycles... I know the advantage is there, and I notice the lack of feel and feedback from cable calipers.


so you are correct, unless you need them and can appreciate them, they are just bling... but they have their place. And that place is often on DIY ebikes.

 

[wesnewell]

I'm 270lbs. and I have one bike with rim brakes and another with disc brakes. Both have regen braking. Both brake good from high speeds because of the regen braking, but get below 10 mph and the one with disc brakes won't stop for crap, especially going DH. I can stop the one with rim brakes on a dime, but the one with disc brakes are so bad I rarely even ride the bike. The reason is simple. With rim brakes I have a 559mm disc, the wheel rim. The other one has a 160mm disc. The pad surface area is about the same, so it takes a lot more pressure with the disc brakes to apply the same stopping power. It's like trying to stop a fan with your hand. Easy to do at the outer most part of the fan blades and near impossible to at the inner most part. And that's why smaller disc brakes suck.

 

[MrDude_1]

I'm 270lbs. and I have one bike with rim brakes and another with disc brakes. Both have regen braking. Both brake good from high speeds because of the regen braking, but get below 10 mph and the one with disc brakes won't stop for crap, especially going DH. I can stop the one with rim brakes on a dime, but the one with disc brakes are so bad I rarely even ride the bike. The reason is simple. With rim brakes I have a 559mm disc, the wheel rim. The other one has a 160mm disc. The pad surface area is about the same, so it takes a lot more pressure with the disc brakes to apply the same stopping power. It's like trying to stop a fan with your hand. Easy to do at the outer most part of the fan blades and near impossible to at the inner most part. And that's why smaller disc brakes suck.

lol. You kind of missed the point... at no point in my rambling, semi-coherent response did I praise mechanical disc brakes... However, clearly something is wrong with yours.
First make sure they're adjusted correctly.. make sure the pads are in properly too.
if you want really light feel on the brakes.. go hydraulic.

 

[slowhands]

I'm 270lbs. and I have one bike with rim brakes and another with disc brakes. Both have regen braking. Both brake good from high speeds because of the regen braking, but get below 10 mph and the one with disc brakes won't stop for crap, especially going DH. I can stop the one with rim brakes on a dime, but the one with disc brakes are so bad I rarely even ride the bike. The reason is simple. With rim brakes I have a 559mm disc, the wheel rim. The other one has a 160mm disc. The pad surface area is about the same, so it takes a lot more pressure with the disc brakes to apply the same stopping power. It's like trying to stop a fan with your hand. Easy to do at the outer most part of the fan blades and near impossible to at the inner most part. And that's why smaller disc brakes suck.

And here I thought the topic was cheap fat tire bikes at Walmart. Silly me.

Uhh... brake huh? I share with you a liking for rim brakes. In dry conditions, they do fine, except they will fade on a long downhill. Your regen prevents that. But no doubt about it, disc brakes win in wet weather or long down hills. I don't think too many people would agree disc brakes are inferior. From what I've heard, some are a pain to adjust. But good ones like say Avid BB7s are very good indeed and hold adjustment well.