A2B Metro Rearming 3kW Motor + 20700B x 104

With that motor I wouldn't use a torque arm like I've got it will still deform its too strong the mxus can top out at 100Nm of torque and to shove that into a bike frame without having troubles is asking alot you have gone for a even bigger bad boy that will have over 150Nm proberly with the right controller that just wouldn't be good news for the swing arm on a standing start launch, if you have any weight to you things will only be worse.

The torque arms need to be around 8mm tool steel, stainless won't cut it and it will have to clamp the axle too just interference fit will oval over time, you can clamp it down with out an issue but will the rear hold up over time hmmmmm it's taking more than 10× design force ?:/.
I hope all goes well for you have spent alot on it clearly but worse case scenario you will need a new frame when this sucker takes a dive just hope it don't hospitalize you in the process.
 
Thanks for advice guys. I promise will not mount QS before I get torque arms machined and I hope the swing arm will coupe with new forces.

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Replaced the controller with KLS6035S while fighting intermittent issue with unstsble operation at low speeds. Wnen the swap was done and the same vibration appeared, I have asked Fany for support and I was told my motor may have some pcb in loop with Halls so I had to feed the hall pwr from 10v controller source. All started working nice and smooth. KLS made it little less aggressive on starting but more smooth and absolutely noiseless.


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Replaced the rear coil shock with Suntour Lorp air.
So much more difference in handling and comfort. 130-140psi seems right. I tried 200 psi but it was too much and too high.

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Amiran said:
Replaced the rear coil shock with Suntour Lorp air.
So much more difference in handling and comfort. 130-140psi seems right. I tried 200 psi but it was too much and too high.

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Good choice does the job just right for this frame no need for all singing and dancing plus there's a lock out now for climbing with a flat batt.
Nice to see your getting along with it and it's being nice to you.

How did you have the damping set soft or hard ?
 
I was still finding comfy damping level and this happened just now. :D
Apparently, it started cogging on the go on my way home. I connected the app and it was showing missing hall signal. Soo... while it was cogging on the go, it was heavily vibrating. Once I got home I lifted the rear wheel and tried full throttle. It cogged few time and here we are.
Looking to find new swing arm... this is the price for not waiting for torque arms to arrive (just placed the order for 4 no 4mm pieces):?
 
Ah tamping mate, it's rounded the oval has it and chewed the frame up any pics ?
 
Let us know how that battery works out. I get scared at the pos tit and neg can with all that copper,solder and heat. Plus I didnt see sense wires for ez checking.
 
Ah snapped it to bits, it's only alloy see not that strong at all, no salvaging that new swing arm i think and lesson learnt wait for decent torque arms.
 
999zip999 said:
Let us know how that battery works out. I get scared at the pos tit and neg can with all that copper,solder and heat. Plus I didnt see sense wires for ez checking.
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Battery behaves very well, disbalance is negligible. And voltage never sagged or more than 4 volts on acceleration.
 
Get a new swinger and some sence leads to check the pack without removing it and your golden, don't worry about being ocd of its your first build just make sure you learn from mistakes with time you will put those pieces together and level up.
 
Spoke to a couple of workshops in London who can technically weld the thing with no problem but they hesitate to touch the bike part... they are worried abou potential legal issues if any failure/accident occurs to bike.
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Yup you are better off getting someone to help you attach that added steel to the frame.
If that was mine, I'd do a horizontal slotted Torque Arm so you can slide your motor in, then some sort of allen key to fully enclose the axle. This would also be the perfect opportunity to change the wheel base if you wanted to do that.

I would try to sandwhich both sides with steel, almost like having 4 Torque Arms, 2 for each side, each side having an inner and an outter.
Just a thought, maybe over kill but peace of mind is where its at with something like that.
 
looking nice!
the more plates stacked together the better. i did a similar design with 3mm layers, i think i had 20+ mm on each side grabbing the axle.
make sure there is NO play in the slot if it doesnt bolt shut, as if there is itle chew away with regen/acceleration until it slops back and forth.
copper shim might help if its loose, but a open slot w/pinch bolt is the best
 
markz said:
Yup you are better off getting someone to help you attach that added steel to the frame.
If that was mine, I'd do a horizontal slotted Torque Arm so you can slide your motor in, then some sort of allen key to fully enclose the axle. This would also be the perfect opportunity to change the wheel base if you wanted to do that.

I would try to sandwhich both sides with steel, almost like having 4 Torque Arms, 2 for each side, each side having an inner and an outter.
Just a thought, maybe over kill but peace of mind is where its at with something like that.
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I think I've done as you have suggested, almost. Cheers for that.
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ridethelightning said:
looking nice!
the more plates stacked together the better. i did a similar design with 3mm layers, i think i had 20+ mm on each side grabbing the axle.
make sure there is NO play in the slot if it doesnt bolt shut, as if there is itle chew away with regen/acceleration until it slops back and forth.
copper shim might help if its loose, but a open slot w/pinch bolt is the best
Click to expand...
I appreciate your input. I will be running new mount/brackets over the weekend.
Damn throttle halls keep dying All the time!

I can't wait 205 v3 h50 to test.

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All works great so far. Controller got little warm while hub was few degrees above the ambient temp.

If you are not carefully, the controller cuts out for sec near the 100A battery current mark, but overall acceleration well above needed in the city.
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Looks great. Maybe reduce the current limit on the controller slightly so it doesn't cut out.

With my stock motor, external controller at 52v, the most the motor can draw is less than 60A. With 100A peak, that thing should be moving pretty good.
 
fechter said:
Looks great. Maybe reduce the current limit on the controller slightly so it doesn't cut out.

With my stock motor, external controller at 52v, the most the motor can draw is less than 60A. With 100A peak, that thing should be moving pretty good.
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I managed to change the ride to more reasonable speeds so I avoid cutouts. It still goes in liblne elwith 125cc delivery scooters up to 45 mph and I do not even want to tryhigher speeds .
Btw, the simple variable regen setup works great. In the traffic I only use regen to slow down and maintain the distance.
I think variable regen now minimised "shocky" back and forth twisting of Axle against the Dropouts.
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So far all is good with bike. Keeps capturing looks when accelerating fro dead stop.
 
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