Another RG250 with Colossus Motor

Considering the size/weight and tire size of your bike 70Wh/km is pretty good, my DM50 is using about 31Wh/km (mixed driving), and it has a weight of only 60kg and 2.25 tires

Hope you get the battery fixed, not fun to only use about half of the capacity....
 
dr_frost_dk said:
Considering the size/weight and tire size of your bike 70Wh/km is pretty good, my DM50 is using about 31Wh/km (mixed driving), and it has a weight of only 60kg and 2.25 tires

Hope you get the battery fixed, not fun to only use about half of the capacity....
Click to expand...
Yea the bike is about 140 kg and he commute is 33km and and 25 km of that is 80km/h limits.

The other problem with the pack issue is that I am only getting 3/5ths of the peak current as well.
 
SplinterOz said:
Today I put it all together for the first time...


Final Fitting by Splinter, on Flickr

Note the bottom panel needs painting but I will do that after registration.
Click to expand...
This has to be the most impressive electric motor bike I have seen on ES. I think you should make the photo of this bike your avatar picture.
Sorry to hear about your battery problems. Love to see the bike on Lipo :evil:
 
Ok here is the last update for a while. (Until I do something radical like water cooling etc)

Quick update of the construction
[youtube]tZW1R93L0BA[/youtube]

Quick Ride
[youtube]IT56F_4CDBk[/youtube]
 
Nice mirrors.
I got the same set hoping to only have to mount one thing on the front rather then mirrors and signals.
Its also good on my bike because it gets the signals up higher then normal.
 
Arlo1 said:
Nice mirrors.
I got the same set hoping to only have to mount one thing on the front rather then mirrors and signals.
Its also good on my bike because it gets the signals up higher then normal.
Click to expand...


Thanks... I have not wired the signals on mine as it would require drilling extra holes in the fairing.
Your bike needs all the height it can get :lol:
 
SplinterOz said:
Your bike needs all the height it can get :lol:
Click to expand...
LOL nope small and light and fast :)
 
Totally awesome. Sanitary build. Great thread. Inspirational.
 
I am setting up the new motor at the moment as I have burnt out a winding in this motor.
New motor required the Hall sensors to be totally remounted (arrgh!) I have that mostly done.
(See progress here http://www.elmoto.net/showthread.php?3270-RG-Electric-Repairs )

Ratio is 1:4.9
With the controller setting that I have at the moment I am getting about 50nM of torque. I can get peak of higher than that but it is fun controlling the heat :)
 
50nm of torque at the rear wheel???

How fast can you spin it in this configuration?

I am asking because I would like to put a watercooled collosus in a small frame for offroad riding with 2 a stage reduction geared for 70-80km/h so 1:9 - 1:10 ratio but I don´t know if the Kelly Controller can spin it up to 8000 rpm and AFAIK your solution is the only one I can buy.
 
I was able to get up to 80 ft/lbs at the rear wheel with out the motor getting hot so far and more planned. 4:1 reduction and a 19 inch dia wheel.

Splinter what phase current where you running when you burnt a phase? Is this on the Liquid cooled motor with no cooling?
 
50nm is the motor torque not he wheel torque. Top speed of the setup on the dyno is 125 km/h and 110 on the road.
Controller was set to max 600 amps at the time of the incident, same as at had for 4 months of commuting use. Unlikely to be power related more likely to be poor winding tension. No liquid cooling at that stage and controller was set to cut out at 100 celcius motor temp.

Realisticaly you don't want to spin the new motors over 6000 as the efficiency drops off really fast and you will be dealing with over a kw of heat just of no load losses. The newer motor has less losses at lower rpm and should deliver torque better. I am still setting up the hall alignment on the newer motor.
 
SplinterOz said:
50nm is the motor torque not he wheel torque. Top speed of the setup on the dyno is 125 km/h and 110 on the road.
Controller was set to max 600 amps at the time of the incident, same as at had for 4 months of commuting use. Unlikely to be power related more likely to be poor winding tension. No liquid cooling at that stage and controller was set to cut out at 100 celcius motor temp.

Realisticaly you don't want to spin the new motors over 6000 as the efficiency drops off really fast and you will be dealing with over a kw of heat just of no load losses. The newer motor has less losses at lower rpm and should deliver torque better. I am still setting up the hall alignment on the newer motor.
Click to expand...
50nm at the motor is bout 2x my best with my piss pour 18 fet build. Very cool.

I was wondering about the windings... I had a couple loose windings I glued in to keep from snagging the magnets and I was going to ask if a rewound motor would be any good?

Do you want me to rewind it for you? Do you want to sell it to me so I can rewind it for my self?

I think 6000 rpm under load is a good max... It seams it will take 20-24s lipo to achieve that.... Im excited to see what you find with the new motors... :)
 
50 nm of torque at the motor is really amazing. Your bike must snap of from the start.

Do you have data for the efficiency of the new motors? Or other perfomance data?

I guess 20s would be might be good in this case. Or spin it out of efficiency for (really short) top speed and even higher torque.

Does the Kelly even spin the new motor over 6000 rpm?
 
Kelly with the high speed firmware and the "RC firmware mode" (make sure you email them to get that option) has spun the original up the 6300 and the new one 5000 at the moment (remember the Halls are not lined up). It may make it to 6000 with the Halls lined up but I am not too confident.

This is what toolman2 and I drew up a while ago...

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Ao-uNyh_2Nq0dFlSVXZBdk85WkVTNXlNYTNKRE1NQkE&usp=drive_web#gid=0
 
Sorry I have been a bit slack and only updating small snippets at Elmoto.

Short story:
- new motor is in the bike, however I had to rebuild the Hall Sensor board as it was all ***d up
- Burtie's timing adjuster board with open collector adapter is working fine and sorts out minor hall issues due to my temp board
- current controller with existing settings are driving the new motor well.

I still have to tidy up the timing adapter connection and a few little things like that. I am also taking the opportunity to fit a new BMS from zeva.com.au

On the Kelly throttle setting I would only ever use torque mode if you have over 6 or 7 kw of power, the other modes are just too "touchy". You really only have up/down speed settings on the throttle and I have mine set quite fast :)
Having not ridden an electric motorbike with any controller other than a Kelly I am not that good to ask for a comparison.
 
Thanks for the updates.
So does the throttle feel like a throttle on a ICE ?
Did you actually ride the bike before conversion?

Just asking because I have a Lyen controller and a ht3525 at the monment with only 2kw and I don´t like the throttle at all and I hoped the torque control mode of the Kelly would be much better.
When you describe it as too touchy I think we have the same feeling about speed controll (execpt I have much less power :shock: )
 
sigimem said:
Thanks for the updates.
So does the throttle feel like a throttle on a ICE ?
Did you actually ride the bike before conversion?

Just asking because I have a Lyen controller and a ht3525 at the monment with only 2kw and I don´t like the throttle at all and I hoped the torque control mode of the Kelly would be much better.
When you describe it as too touchy I think we have the same feeling about speed controll (execpt I have much less power :shock: )
Click to expand...

I didn't ride the bike before conversion but it was a two stroke with a savage torque curve on the motor.
It is hard / impossible to set up a throttle to "feel" like an ICE as it is the flat torque curve on the electric that makes it feel so different. However with torque control set it is not as touchy or snatchy as speed setup and the amount of control you have is similar to a ICE.

The other thing to consider is the twist throttle itself, there is a wide range of quality out there and the cheaper "scooter" ones have a very light return spring which does not help the feel.
 
Splinter, you are using a Kelly atm right?

My personal comparison between the different controllers abilities to relay throttle input is
Kelly controllers throttle is a 100 point throttle
Lyen controllers have ~20
Greentime controllers have ~5

Thats using a CA V3 and setting up the throttle as good as i can. Playing with the lyen and greentime controllers and then going to a kelly is a world of difference. The new Max-E controllers and Lebowskis hopefully beat the Kelly but atm for a cheap fully controllable controller then the kelly is hard to beat. Fyi Ask for a discount, it never hurts. I am running 2 KEB72801 controllers at 15kw peaks on 20S. So the pricing is not bad.
 
Dude... have i said this before? i'll say it again anyway.

Your bike is badass. I love the way it sounds. Loud stators save lives anyway, right? 8)
 
Sorry it has been a while but I have been working hard on getting the bike up and running again.

I wanted to use the newer designed motor as a replacement, mainly to test the motor for the guys that designed it, but also to quieten some loud critics of these motors.

Running the new motor however seemed quite difficult and hard to get smooth running from it. I pulled the hall sensor board out and found that they were mounted backwards and at an angle, the best they could do is pick up the magnetic flux from the coils.
12418067085_53b2d7f9e8_z.jpg
No wonder the behaviour was so bad. So I created a replacement board and lined up the hall sensors as accurately as I could. The motor now runs quite well with all things working almost as good as the original.

[youtube]cielcqsSNFw[/youtube]

I have also taken this opportunity to replace my Battery Monitoring System with a Battery Management System from zeva.com.au


All in all I should be back on the road in a couple of weeks.
 
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