Anyone try the electric motorcycle style mopeds off ebay

[boytitan]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/YD-SWIFT-E-2000W-Brushless-Electric-Motorcycle-Moped-Scooter-Red-/331944362584?hash=item4d496d0258:g:bUQAAOSw6n5Xq7e4

http://www.ebay.com/itm/YD-FALCON-E-2000W-Brushless-Electric-Motorcycle-Moped-Scooter-BLUE-/331945339372?hash=item4d497be9ec:g:XhsAAOSwHoFXq7Mu

I can only find one vendor currently but there are others because one of those bikes is a flat out honda knock off in body style and some other brand had the same knock off.
I noticed they just use hub motors. It would be insanely easy to just lay down a stronger hub motor in there and get a electric motorcycle. Never seen any topics on it. The motoped frame cost more than these street legal and upgradeble bikes.

 

[joshuahandrich]

I have one of these Zuma 125 clones with a slightly different style (vertical) headlight:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/332061206247

It worked fine stock, but I highly recommend a cycle analyst, lithium battery and a bigger controller if you'd like a bit more acceleration. On 20s lithium ion batteries the top speed is about 45mph hot off the charger.

These seem very similar in controller and electronics to the e-grom bikes just with a scooter frame.

The hub motor can handle much more than the stock 2000w they run, in pushing around 5000w now and plan to double or triple that and so far neither the hub or phase wires even get warm.

I would suggest some quality rubber on the tires and am planning to put some decent Michelin rubber on mine for a bit more grub and little more confidence in the wet.

The big appeal to me is being able to register it and not worry so much about the power or speed you're putting out. Haven't had any issues though above the legal limit of 30mph you may want to be careful depending upon the type and attitude of police prescense in the area.

Full coverage insurance and registration cost me about $150 a year and the peace of mind is nice.

Let me know if you have any specific questions.

 

[Baron]

I was doing a little research on the Boom e-grom and similar bikes yesterday. Seems like it could be a decent bike with a few upgrades. Looks like they're using a motor similar to these:
https://qsmotor.aliexpress.com/store/group/12inch-Wheel-Hub-Motor/109978_211369266.html

I was checking the QS motor website for a decent replacement motor, these look good:
http://www.cnqsmotor.com/en/article_list/QS%20Motor%2013inch%201500W-8000W%20273%20Hub%20Motor/113.html
but the 50mm stator ones are 200mm width dropouts, with maybe an option to get them smaller? I read the stock hubs on these bikes are 160mm so I don't know if it will fit.

you would probably have to upgrade the swingarm to fit it? Either make new swingarms, or extend the length of the stock ones?

What other hub motors in the 10-14" range that would be a good replacement? Along with a battery and controller upgrade, this could be a contender. I think they're using a 24 fet controller but I have no idea beyond that. Some negatives: The fork looks like it has maybe 3" travel? The display only does kph.

Does anyone know of a frame manufacturer for these type of frames? because if I'm going to upgrade the motor, battery, and controller, might as well try to save on costs by buying it without those.

 

[joshuahandrich]

My 12" hub runs 120/70-12 tires. Would likely work with a 130 or 140 if there's clearance on the frame/mud guards.

I could take some measurements of the dropouts if it'd be helpful. Pretty sure the grom clones run the same motor as the zumas.

Even if they can be built up for decent power, I don't recommend the stock controller, likely not genuine fets, terribly jerky speed based throttle, lag before reapplying throttle if you get off and then back on it quickly which can be unpredictable and dangerous especially in turns. I can pull apart the controller that came in mine and take some pictures if you like though.

Couple of neat things are the cable driven hall throttle mounted below the seat, fairly sturdy steel frame for the money. Many mechanical parts designed for the bike it's a clone of fit perfect, etc. really a lot for your money and much better designed for a properly performing electric (despite the work required) than converting a gas bike. With large steel boxes for the batteries, D.C.-D.C. Converters, setup for a hub motor, etc.

I'm purchasing some replacement plastic body panels from: http://www.crtmoto.com
They don't list parts for their electric scooters, but they have them in stock and we're able to provide me with a PDF of all the available replacement parts and work on supplying them even though I hadn't purchased the bike from them originally.

Just my $0.02

 

[Warren]

"With large steel boxes for the batteries, D.C.-D.C. Converters, setup for a hub motor, etc."

This battery would get lost in there.

http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=252

 

[joshuahandrich]

Yes, I believe mine has about 14"x9" battery box with decent height as well. I've currently got a similar 20s10p battery in there with about 2kwhr, but I've got a module from a p90d tesla that I'm planning to configure as about a 5kwhr 20s20p pack that should use a bit more space in there. Been waiting over a month now though for my cell holders and nickel strips to arrive from China.

Only thing is it would be a bit tricky to get a much bigger battery in as it's all welded together and there's cross members in the frame above it at several points unless you were to cut and re-weld the sheet steel or possibly assemble something like Nissan Leaf modules in there one at a time. Was designed for 6 20ah or so lead acid batteries that could be removed one at a time.

 

[Baron]

here's a 50 page thread on the subject
http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/boom-a-grom-clone.1114727/page-50

Some people were considering this battery as an upgrade
http://www.lifepo4.in/96v40ah-.html

 

[markz]

.....but you can't take that vehicle into parks or on trains like a bicycle.

Pro - You'd blend in nicely on the road doing higher speeds.

 

[boytitan]

I have one of these Zuma 125 clones with a slightly different style (vertical) headlight:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/332061206247

It worked fine stock, but I highly recommend a cycle analyst, lithium battery and a bigger controller if you'd like a bit more acceleration. On 20s lithium ion batteries the top speed is about 45mph hot off the charger.

These seem very similar in controller and electronics to the e-grom bikes just with a scooter frame.

The hub motor can handle much more than the stock 2000w they run, in pushing around 5000w now and plan to double or triple that and so far neither the hub or phase wires even get warm.

I would suggest some quality rubber on the tires and am planning to put some decent Michelin rubber on mine for a bit more grub and little more confidence in the wet.

The big appeal to me is being able to register it and not worry so much about the power or speed you're putting out. Haven't had any issues though above the legal limit of 30mph you may want to be careful depending upon the type and attitude of police prescense in the area.

Full coverage insurance and registration cost me about $150 a year and the peace of mind is nice.

Let me know if you have any specific questions.

What type of battery do you use for 5000 watt power ?

Nvm i seen the battery posted here is close to 4000 watt hours. Now the bigger question is how do you get the lead acid batteries out thread does not cover that.

 

[Baron]

My 12" hub runs 120/70-12 tires. Would likely work with a 130 or 140 if there's clearance on the frame/mud guards.

I could take some measurements of the dropouts if it'd be helpful. Pretty sure the grom clones run the same motor as the zumas.

Even if they can be built up for decent power, I don't recommend the stock controller, likely not genuine fets, terribly jerky speed based throttle, lag before reapplying throttle if you get off and then back on it quickly which can be unpredictable and dangerous especially in turns. I can pull apart the controller that came in mine and take some pictures if you like though.

Couple of neat things are the cable driven hall throttle mounted below the seat, fairly sturdy steel frame for the money. Many mechanical parts designed for the bike it's a clone of fit perfect, etc. really a lot for your money and much better designed for a properly performing electric (despite the work required) than converting a gas bike. With large steel boxes for the batteries, D.C.-D.C. Converters, setup for a hub motor, etc.

I'm purchasing some replacement plastic body panels from: http://www.crtmoto.com
They don't list parts for their electric scooters, but they have them in stock and we're able to provide me with a PDF of all the available replacement parts and work on supplying them even though I hadn't purchased the bike from them originally.

Just my $0.02

What were the specs of the original controller, and what controller did you replace it with? I did read somewhere that the original controller was 24 crappy fets. Could you make a guess as to the width of the stator in your hub motor? QS motor makes a variety of sizes of this type motor and I'm having trouble pinpointing which one it is. It looks like the 30mm stator version because that's the only one with 160mm dropouts.

.....but you can't take that vehicle into parks or on trains like a bicycle.

Pro - You'd blend in nicely on the road doing higher speeds.

My plan is to have a 1500-3000W ebike with a mountain bike frame for offroading and a separate more powerful e-motorcycle/conversion for the street. I see a lot of people here building high powered 10KW+ bikes on a purpose built ebike frame, which are awesome, but doesn't really appeal to me because they're not really street legal. I would rather start with a titled/DOT rated bike an put upgrades on it over time.

 

[joshuahandrich]

Currently my battery is about 1.8kwhr 20s9p Panasonic PF cells at 26.1ah. That's really what's holding me back from running more than about 5kw currently as I've had to dial in the cycle analyst to prevent the BMS from tripping and the cells would sag too much going much higher, hence the plans for a bigger battery with a 200a continuous BMS.

The stock controller would run about 30a battery current with slightly higher peaks good for right around 2000w at 72v. Could be used up to about 200v fully charged. I'll see if I can get some time to take the cover off and take some pictures when I get a chance.

I replaced it with a YUYANGKING with 36 to247 4110 fets because I had it laying around. I'd suggest if you were purchasing specifically for this something like a Sabvoton as the smooth efficient sine wave and variable regen would be nice, and it's in the power level you're looking for.

The lead is easy to remove, 4 screws and 4 bolts to remove the seat and storage compartment beneath it. After that you remove two screws to remove the steel retaining bar above them, unscrew the wires from the battery terminals and lift them out one by one. I'd suggest leaving two of the wires connected to the first battery to lift it out as there isn't a ton of room to get beneath it to lift it.

I'll also try and get you a measurement of the dropout width and try and measure the motor case and guess about what the stator width is in there. It's too bad the Hub Monsters are no longer available as they'd likely fit and provide some awesome performance and efficiency. I would suggest Nissan Leaf modules as likely the easiest cheapest batteries for something of this size. I may even sell off my 400 or so tesla 18650s and take a bit of a weight penalty to go that route as it's much less time consuming and much simpler.

Yes it will be titled registered and DOT approved, but make sure you look up the top speed allowed (usually on level ground with a 160lb rider) for mopeds, the speed the tires are rated for, etc. and be cognoscenti of when you're over those. You can purchase better tires, you could also have a switch to use the Cycle Analyst set the speed limit to 30mph etc.

 

[Baron]

I think this is the motor they're using on these style mopeds/motorcycles?
http://www.cnqsmotor.com/en/article_read/QS%20Motor%2016inch%201500W%20260%2030H%20V3%20Electric%20Bike%20Cast%20Wheel%20Hub%20Motor/488.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Low-cost-1500W-12inch-260Model-Hub-Motor-for-electric-scooter-V1-Type/109978_32656228906.html

It's the only 160mm dropout version of that motor I could find with the same visual style.

I emailed QSmotor about that motor: Do you know the rated maximum amperage, constant amperage, and maximum phase amperage for this motor at 72V?

For what it's worth, they sent me this:

"For the rated amperage: 1500/72=20.8A
For the constant amperage: about 3000/0.8/72=52A
For the maximum phase amperage: depend on winding of the motor, generally could reach 40-50tim"

The aliexpress link has Continious current:36A and Max current:50A in the description so that's probably the same motor?