ASI BAC2000 bricked

[tanker]

Hi everyone,
this is my first post but I've been lurking here a lot. I've found a lot of inspiration and help here already, so thanks for that first of all. However I have now run into a problem that I believe some of you could probably help me with.
I have a CYC X1 Pro Gen2 with the BAC2000 controller. One day, after setting Speed Regulator mode to Speed the motor stopped working and so did the app (only shows zeroes) - it's bricked. Now this is apparently quite a normal occurence as it's noted in the manual and it requires sending in the controller for unbricking.
However sending back and forth to China costs money and time and since I eventually wanted to tinker some more with the controller (and it will probably happen again anyways) I instead want to unbrick it with PC bacdoor. I found the (probably outdated) exe in a thread here. In the same thread a solution is given by Martin for what seems to be exactly my problem:

Do not flash 5.x config to new asi as I did. Now I have a fancy brick.
I am trying to have some support form Martin but no luck for now.
Someone know if with the PC ASI Software is possible to un-brick the controller?

thanks

j

i already bricked 2x BAC8000 just by clicking on Run on motor calibration, then the bluetooth disconnected and the controller red light is on, but not reachable or response even from pc.

how yours happen?

Hey guys: Flashing old parameters into the new software: https://support.accelerated-systems.com/KB/?p=2019

The motor calibration issue, most likely the controller was sent with Speed Regulator mode set to Speed instead of torque mode, causing the switching frequency to set outside of what Bluetooth is capable of working.

you should be able to unbrick it yourself by changing the switching frequency back to 13000, the baud rate of port 2 to 115200 and setting the Speed regulator mode back to Torque mode.

So this is what I'm trying. I have a USB isolator which seems to be working fine, and a RS232 board. I've ordered a julet 5 pin male connector and measured the resistance of the strands to find out which is which, then hooked it up according to the cyc manual's harness wiring diagram. Ground to ground, RX to TX and TX to RX. Connecting in bacdoor initially fails with 3 timeouts. The other two cables which are Key-In and B+ seem to be the "power switch" and when I touch these together for a brief moment and then connect, bacdoor shows connected. However the RX and TX lights are still off, all values are zero and I cannot write anything to the controller. Holding the Key-In and B+ together produces the same results, the LED on the controller is shining red while holding the leads together.
I also have the drivers (com port is showing in bacdoor) and I've tried with different ASIObjectDictionary.xml files (tried the original one from the outdated bacdoor install, tried a newer one from @xenodius Ampy project (that one should be the right one as I know my firmware on the controller is 6.016, right?))
Do I have to connect these leads somewhere else? Is my bricked unit not unbrickable at home? Has anyone had a similar problem? Or is it maybe my ttl board wrong (it's red as opposed to the blue one mentioned in the thread, though it is supposed to be a normal FTDI chip on it)?
Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks a lot.

 

[amberwolf]

I don't know if it makes any difference, but there are scads of clone/counterfeit FTDI and other serial-USB chips out there, which sometimes only have ENUM differences (so computer-end drivers don't work right or at all) and sometimes have behavioral or signal differences. If yours behaves differently than the adapter that worked in the quoted case(s) it might contribute to not being able to connect.

 

[tanker]

I don't know if it makes any difference, but there are scads of clone/counterfeit FTDI and other serial-USB chips out there, which sometimes only have ENUM differences (so computer-end drivers don't work right or at all) and sometimes have behavioral or signal differences. If yours behaves differently than the adapter that worked in the quoted case(s) it might contribute to not being able to connect.

Thanks, you're right I should probably try with the exact same board. Should arrive soon, thnks for the info!

 

[tanker]

I don't know if it makes any difference, but there are scads of clone/counterfeit FTDI and other serial-USB chips out there, which sometimes only have ENUM differences (so computer-end drivers don't work right or at all) and sometimes have behavioral or signal differences. If yours behaves differently than the adapter that worked in the quoted case(s) it might contribute to not being able to connect.

Ok so I've tried with the DSD Tech cable mentioned in the thread and the behavior is now different: When the controller is off or not connected to the serial adapter, bacdoor shows 3 checksum errors, when I turn on the the controller (short B+ and Key-in) it shows 3 timeout errors. No connection light is lighting up this time... So no success yet. I've also tried reversing the TX and RX leads which also didn't help.