LewTwo
1 MW
OK ... stupid question: What is the difference between
Avid BB5 Mountain Disk Brakes
verses
Avid BB7 Road Disk Brakes ?
Thank you
Avid BB5 Mountain Disk Brakes
verses
Avid BB7 Road Disk Brakes ?
Thank you
Avid BB5 vs Avid BB7
- Thread starter LewTwo
- Start date
LewTwo
1 MW
Found a picture for what it is worth:
I do see the difference in pad size.
I do see the difference in pad size.
Chalo
100 TW
BB7 comes with metallic pads and has metallic pads available from many sources, while BB5 pads aren't available in metallic compound when I've looked.
BB7 is a much better brake. BB5 is cheaper.
BB7 is a much better brake. BB5 is cheaper.
onemorejoltwarden
100 W
"OE BB7 pads squeal, not sure about BB5."
Watch out for counterfeits. (if it's a bike would it be counterfiets?)
Especially on eBay
Watch out for counterfeits. (if it's a bike would it be counterfiets?)
Especially on eBay
LewTwo
1 MW
I get my counterfeits from Amazon :wink:onemorejoltwarden said:
LewTwo
1 MW
WOW ... I just ordered the bits and pieces for the BB7 brake assemblies. It came out over $200 without new levers, cables or spare pads. Somehow I can not recall spending nearly that much on a set of rim brakes.Chalo said:
... and I will not even get the 'self oiling' feature with these :lol:
docw009
1 MW
I have both, I started with no-name, but worried that I would have to guess on pad replacement, so I bought BB5's. Hard to keep in adjustment. Then I went to BB7's. Finally, I went with Shimano MT200 full hydraulic, That was $60 front/back and they stay in adjustment, being hydraulic.
Over the winter, I did a second bike with Zoom HB100 full hydraulics. Also around $60. If these don't blow up and spring leaks, they really seem to stop nice with the sintered pads, better than whatever came on the Shimano MT200's .
Finally, there are the Zoom/Catazer calipers that are hydraulic, but use cables to pull the pistons. I have a bike equipped with these. Not as good as the full hydraulics, but yes they adjust easy. Better than the BB7s? It's close.
Got a pair of Textro Aries MD300 mechanical calipers that came with my bafang front motor from Battery Clearing House. I plan to use these sometime.
Over the winter, I did a second bike with Zoom HB100 full hydraulics. Also around $60. If these don't blow up and spring leaks, they really seem to stop nice with the sintered pads, better than whatever came on the Shimano MT200's .
Finally, there are the Zoom/Catazer calipers that are hydraulic, but use cables to pull the pistons. I have a bike equipped with these. Not as good as the full hydraulics, but yes they adjust easy. Better than the BB7s? It's close.
Got a pair of Textro Aries MD300 mechanical calipers that came with my bafang front motor from Battery Clearing House. I plan to use these sometime.
nicobie
100 MW
I think that it's hard to beat BB7's 
https://www.amazon.com/Avid-BB7-Front-Rear-Rotor/dp/B00403GRE6
https://www.amazon.com/Avid-BB7-Front-Rear-Rotor/dp/B00403GRE6
Haven't tried the BB5, but the single BB7mtn 200mm rotor on the front of SB Cruiser has been as close to perfect as I have ever had for far less work than the next best I've had, which was dual front rim brakes (front and back of the fork).
Granted, the rim brakes didn't heat up like the disc, because the rotor was far far larger...but the disc has been much easier to maintain, even with replacing pads more often.
YOu may have already known or found this, but the "road" vs "mtn" in the versions means which lever type it uses, so how much cable pull it takes to fully engage the caliper.
So make sure you get the version that matches the levers you prefer to use or already have, or else you'll need to replace those, too, or get the Problem Solvers Travel Agent to convert the lever travel to the caliper travel.
Granted, the rim brakes didn't heat up like the disc, because the rotor was far far larger...but the disc has been much easier to maintain, even with replacing pads more often.
YOu may have already known or found this, but the "road" vs "mtn" in the versions means which lever type it uses, so how much cable pull it takes to fully engage the caliper.
So make sure you get the version that matches the levers you prefer to use or already have, or else you'll need to replace those, too, or get the Problem Solvers Travel Agent to convert the lever travel to the caliper travel.
LewTwo
1 MW
I have a bunch of levers in a box somewhere and some Jagwire cables. I need to dig those out and sort through them to see what I have available.amberwolf said:
At this point I need the pieces parts so I can assembly the rear axle/wheel and brakes for fit-up. I am going to do the fit-up using one of these:
It is cheap and sacrificial but has the advantage of being able to be clamped to the left rear dropout. I want to design a single plate that can be attached to the inside of the dropout and held in place with bolts and the strongest epoxy that I can find.
LewTwo
1 MW
ordered the silver ones.nicobie said:I think that it's hard to beat BB7's
https://www.amazon.com/Avid-BB7-Front-Rear-Rotor/dp/B00403GRE6
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EKOE6GA
Any color except black or red ...
LewTwo
1 MW
For anyone that might be doing a layout here is my line drawing of an Avid BB7 Road Caliper.
Folks there is a lot of 'artistic license' (aka cheating) in this one.
For those that have access to a CAD system, the attached zip file contains the original DWG files as well as DXF, PDF and SVG exports. You can add additional details or correct my mistakes.
PUBLIC DOMAIN:
The files attached to this message post on Endless Sphere are the original work product of the author, Lewis Balentine, Houston, Texas. The author freely releases these files to the public domain, August 2022.
DISCLAIMER:
There is no warranty, expressed or implied, regards the accuracy or fitness of the attached files for any purpose. The author assumes no responsibility for the accuracy and/or information in these files.
View attachment Avid BB7 Road Caliper.zip
Note: Original DWG file created with ARES Commander.
Folks there is a lot of 'artistic license' (aka cheating) in this one.
For those that have access to a CAD system, the attached zip file contains the original DWG files as well as DXF, PDF and SVG exports. You can add additional details or correct my mistakes.
PUBLIC DOMAIN:
The files attached to this message post on Endless Sphere are the original work product of the author, Lewis Balentine, Houston, Texas. The author freely releases these files to the public domain, August 2022.
DISCLAIMER:
There is no warranty, expressed or implied, regards the accuracy or fitness of the attached files for any purpose. The author assumes no responsibility for the accuracy and/or information in these files.
View attachment Avid BB7 Road Caliper.zip
Note: Original DWG file created with ARES Commander.
miro13car
100 kW
Triketech said:
BB7 pads squeal depends on situation like ALL discbrake pads
Chalo
100 TW
Contaminated disc brake pads are the most consistently squeaky. Hydraulic calipers are best at contaminating their pads. (They're filled with contaminant fluid, held back from the pads by the cheapest possible seals.)miro13car said:
Generally speaking, grippier pads (regardless of material or type of brake) tend to be likelier to sing than lower performing pads, all else equal. When everything is clean and well adjusted, that's sometimes the price we pay for the best possible braking.
miro13car said:
True although with the caveat that some are far worse than others.
The OE BB7's were loud enough to get the attention of earbud shod pedestrians ahead; sometimes its even amusing in a cruel sort of way. EBM pads aren't always silent but they don't startle folks either.
Chalo is right about oil contaminate on hydros.
Chalo
100 TW
Triketech said:
I haven't encountered that problem with stock BB7 brakes yet, but every setup is unique and the brakes' mountings can play a part. For me, the more common sounds from BB7 are metallic pads on rotor scraping noises and a near-ultrasonic resonance at certain speeds and pressures. They're not pleasant sounds, but they reflect what's happening mechanically.
LewTwo
1 MW
I ordered a set of Sintered Metal pads just to have a spare set on hand.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DQFZF8H
According to the listing (if you can believe any marketing person):
... Resin brake pads quieter but wear out faster than metallic pads, Better modulation, less power.
... Metallic brake pads noisier but last longer than organic, Less modulation, more power.
... Metal brake pads last longer than resin/semi-metallic brake pads.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DQFZF8H
According to the listing (if you can believe any marketing person):
... Resin brake pads quieter but wear out faster than metallic pads, Better modulation, less power.
... Metallic brake pads noisier but last longer than organic, Less modulation, more power.
... Metal brake pads last longer than resin/semi-metallic brake pads.
