steveo
100 kW
aaronlim said:
Out of the box!!
battery medic mod :P fast discharge
- Thread starter drunkencat129
- Start date
Out of the box!!
Tried this, got back to stock medic.
Fact is, my nearly 2 year old hardcase lipo with over 300 cycles on them only needs balancing once every 30-50 cycles, and a single stock medic can do that during a single 8-hour work shift. I just need to reset a 90-minute timer after switching the medic from one jst plug to another.
Considering the new medics are faster and still somewhat accurate, and the pack is not huge in size, most should be fine with this.
Fact is, my nearly 2 year old hardcase lipo with over 300 cycles on them only needs balancing once every 30-50 cycles, and a single stock medic can do that during a single 8-hour work shift. I just need to reset a 90-minute timer after switching the medic from one jst plug to another.
Considering the new medics are faster and still somewhat accurate, and the pack is not huge in size, most should be fine with this.
iovaykind
10 kW
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10200609996196058&set=vb.140675476024089&type=2&theater
Is going through that plug on the side a faster way to discharge packs? Will it also allow for faster balancing?
Is going through that plug on the side a faster way to discharge packs? Will it also allow for faster balancing?
Anty12
1 µW
Greetings.....my first real post here after almost three years...you guys u'r doing a wonderful job.....
Here is an inside vew of the medic....its a non working unit..probably the dispaly is kaput.
I managed to split it, using a small pliers pulling the two PCB's apart and heating up with my iron.
The "finished product"
Detail of the board just under the LCD
The main CPU (i thing)....
EDIt:Thats the RAM Mapping 32x8 LCD Controller
Any one can tell me what is this cylinder i found wondering around when i opened it....it was probably soldered at X1....????
Also ..do you guys thing it 'll be posible to replace the LCD in order to get it back working again...?? it used to be one of the good/accurate units
Thanks
Here is an inside vew of the medic....its a non working unit..probably the dispaly is kaput.
I managed to split it, using a small pliers pulling the two PCB's apart and heating up with my iron.
The "finished product"
Detail of the board just under the LCD
The main CPU (i thing)....
EDIt:Thats the RAM Mapping 32x8 LCD Controller
Any one can tell me what is this cylinder i found wondering around when i opened it....it was probably soldered at X1....????
Also ..do you guys thing it 'll be posible to replace the LCD in order to get it back working again...?? it used to be one of the good/accurate units
Thanks
Gregory
100 kW
That big IC is just the driver for the LCD display.
The loose part X1 is a crystal, providing the timing for the microcontroller.
The main "CPU" or micro controller will be the one next to the floating crystal.
Crystals aren't likely to fail. Looks like just physical damage caused it to rip off the pads and get loose. You can solder it back on - each leg will probably connect to a different (adjacent) micro controller pin and maybe a capacitor. It isn't polarised - can go back on in either direction.
I think you've got a good chance of fixing it if it's just the loose crystal. Not sure why you think the LCD is toast, it won't be replaceable unless you have another donor unit.
Greg
The loose part X1 is a crystal, providing the timing for the microcontroller.
The main "CPU" or micro controller will be the one next to the floating crystal.
Crystals aren't likely to fail. Looks like just physical damage caused it to rip off the pads and get loose. You can solder it back on - each leg will probably connect to a different (adjacent) micro controller pin and maybe a capacitor. It isn't polarised - can go back on in either direction.
I think you've got a good chance of fixing it if it's just the loose crystal. Not sure why you think the LCD is toast, it won't be replaceable unless you have another donor unit.
Greg
Anty12
1 µW
Gregory said:
Thanks Gregory....I ll try to re-solder it ....its so tiny though...
Concerning the LCD i had read somewhere inside the forum that this things are very sensitive to heat.....probably i stacked one on top of the other, while still hot just after balancing .
I have another one not working, which i also spliced apart.
Interesting thing that it has completely different PCB layout...... though RED color both of them...no obvious damage what so ever
BYqSXt8Z
100 W
so where would you put the resistors on this circuit board design to increase the discharge rate? I have 100 1ohm 5W resistors sitting around.
drunkencat129
100 W
- Joined
- Aug 5, 2008
- Messages
- 116
Simple toss that baby on discharge and look for the aray of resister with same value that make heatBYqSXt8Z said:
BYqSXt8Z
100 W
drunkencat129 said:
hahahahaha! NICE! I love the simplicity of the solution. I'll report back for that board mod once I've done it.
dnmun
1 PW
the shunt resistors are the resistors paired together on the output of those little pchannel mosfets in that last picture. Q2,Q4,Q6...
can you read the number printed on them? they will be identical but that is where the charge is dissipated.
U1 in the upper right corner is what turns them on and off through that other set of mosfets on the right side. Q1,Q3,Q5....
i bet the reason it quit working was because the crystal separated from the solder pads.
can you read the number printed on them? they will be identical but that is where the charge is dissipated.
U1 in the upper right corner is what turns them on and off through that other set of mosfets on the right side. Q1,Q3,Q5....
i bet the reason it quit working was because the crystal separated from the solder pads.
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