It’s when you cook a circuit board in the oven as a last ditch effort to revive it. Metals expand a bit when heated, which can cause components to make contact again if they had poor connections previously. I forget how long you’re supposed to do it for, 400°F ~5-10 minutes if I recall, you can look into it further online.
I was able to modify the controller terminal connector on one of them so that a modern key switch could be installed. A 36-volt lithium battery can be used to overvoltage these, and it will still function well. You get 25% more torque and a top speed of 5 to 8 mph. The only reason I kept the original controller was its unique "trigger" throttle. Keep in mind that because the more modern Chinese throttles use hall sensors rather than potentiometers, they are incompatible with them.
I was able to use the original charging port after managing to fit three 36v hoverboard batteries inside. Although I've never conducted a thorough range test, I would estimate 10 to 12 miles (36 volts, 12 ah, 750 watts).
I was able to modify the controller terminal connector on one of them so that a modern key switch could be installed. A 36-volt lithium battery can be used to overvoltage these, and it will still function well. You get 25% more torque and a top speed of 5 to 8 mph. The only reason I kept the original controller was its unique "trigger" throttle. Keep in mind that because the more modern Chinese throttles use hall sensors rather than potentiometers, they are incompatible with them.
I was able to use the original charging port after managing to fit three 36v hoverboard batteries inside. Although I've never conducted a thorough range test, I would estimate 10 to 12 miles (36 volts, 12 ah, 750 watts).
You got hoverboard batteries to work? I guess they are designed for relatively high power output. I’m surprised the original controller could handle 36V. Good to know, I’m still trying to lithium swap mine. I assume you meant 15 to 18MPH and not 5 to 8MPH increase right?
(24v to 36v) +5-8 mph increase. I went from 12 to 18 mph and weigh 215 pounds. My 100-pound son increased his speed from 15 to 23 mph. I eventually sold mine about a year ago, although I had a lot of other 2000s scooter brands.
For someone who weighs less than 175 pounds and can ride at a top speed of 20 mph, this scooter is ideal. These scooters have high-quality Taiwanese motors with ratings of 500–750 watts at 24 or 36 volts.
(24v to 36v) +5-8 mph increase. I went from 12 to 18 mph and weigh 215 pounds. My 100-pound son increased his speed from 15 to 23 mph. I eventually sold mine about a year ago, although I had a lot of other 2000s scooter brands.
For someone who weighs less than 175 pounds and can ride at a top speed of 20 mph, this scooter is ideal. These scooters have high-quality Taiwanese motors with ratings of 500–750 watts at 24 or 36 volts.
I had the complete opposite experience with the original motor. There was no internal cooling and the coil wires appeared to be far too thin for the current drawn, which I believe lead mine to a premature death. Company that made the motor hardly exists online and contacting their support led to nowhere. Only place I could buy a new motor was directly from BladeZ for way too much money.
Good to know it can handle the extra volts; I’ve got a spare lead acid battery lying around that might be able to be hastily connected to the other two inside…
So, I now have in my possession a different 24V speed controller. It's a MC-024D-132. The battery and motor connectors are pretty obvious; what I really need is a wiring diagram for the other connectors on it. They are:
J1 2 pins black
J3 3 pins red
J4 2 pins yellow
J5 2 pins red
J6 3 pins white
J7 2 pins green
So, I now have in my possession a different 24V speed controller. It's a MC-024D-132. The battery and motor connectors are pretty obvious; what I really need is a wiring diagram for the other connectors on it. They are:
J1 2 pins black
J3 3 pins red
J4 2 pins yellow
J5 2 pins red
J6 3 pins white
J7 2 pins green
