BOSS LEVEL CUSTOM SPOT WELDER

Nice. If you put them in parallel remember not to use wired adaptors.
Use one of these
s0vgn5.jpg
 
rojitor said:
Nice. If you put them in parallel remember not to use wired adaptors.
Use one of these
s0vgn5.jpg

I don't think I want to try using them in parallel, at least at first. Just plan on using one at a time.
 
I have used 3 x 25c 2200mah Floureon lipo's in parallel on 1x 10 -12ms without burning with pure 0.15 nickel
Different batteries require testing for weld strength quality of penetration.
 
rojitor said:
10c? I don't think so. Too low. 0.2 requires big amps.

Really? The capacity of the pack is quite large it's equivalent to a 4Ah 40C lipo (unless that's not how lipos work).

I'm also having issues with the probes sticking to the welds
 
Yes lipos work like that but they are often overrated. If those values are real it could work.
It is normal if the points stick after welding. Make sure they are perfectly clean. Rub them gently on sand paper every now and then and use the right time flux. They should not stick so often once you have it mastered.
 
Got my nickel strip roll this morning as per your recommendation, wow it's a lot of material! Still awaiting my batteries which were evidently shipped out of the Hong Kong warehouse, taking forever.
EttIz8v=v=.JPG


My plan is to attempt to get solid welds first and then try to put together a few small packs for running 12v LED lights I use in my art festival booth out of some good verified/tested cells I pulled out of laptops. These bulbs draw 2A and a couple 3s6p packs would be like hog heaven compared to running them off 16ah 12v AGM batteries like I've been doing for years, should make for a fun project. Figuring I need about 192 wh to run one of these bulbs for 8 hours so I'll try to design a couple packs around that.

12v x 2A=24watts
24 watts x 8 hours=192wh

Should be able to run one of these bulbs for say....5 hours without running the pack down too much?
 
Part of the power will be lost on heat and transport. Nevertheless you need 5 hours and you are going to make 8 hours (rated) packs at only 2 amps. You should be ok with that.
I recommend you test on a cutter blade first. So you know how efficient your setup is in order to make perfect welds.
Usually
0.1 mm 1.4ms
0.15 mm 4 ms
0.2 mm 7 ms
But that depends on your lipo
 
rojitor said:
Part of the power will be lost on heat and transport. Nevertheless you need 5 hours and you are going to make 8 hours (rated) packs at only 2 amps. You should be ok with that.
I recommend you test on a cutter blade first. So you know how efficient your setup is in order to make perfect welds.
Usually
0.1 mm 1.4ms
0.15 mm 4 ms
0.2 mm 7 ms
But that depends on your lipo

Yes I am planning on starting with the blades first and increasing the pulse time until I have a strong bond. If I get to the point of making good welds I'll be very pleased. Thanks for your help!
 
It seems the gauge of the battery wire matters a lot, a 5Ah 50C 3S lipo I just picked up with 12awg wires performs even worse than the 16Ah 10C Lipo I had earlier. now the welds are barely even sticking.

Or the Lipo isn't as powerful as it claims to be, a user on another forum hasn't had luck with gens ace lipos either
 
Yes wire thickness matters a lot. It is a shame lipos are so C overrated. A Good lipo is a good investment.
 
a 5Ah 50C 3S lipo I just picked up with 12awg wires performs even worse than the 16Ah 10C Lipo I had earlier

Regardless of which "pocket" spot welder you use (I have found four different models), I recommend that you go for the 3S / 130C LiPo...https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-battery-nano-tech-5000mah-3s-65-130c-lipo-pack-xt-90.html?___store=en_us
 
spinningmagnets said:
a 5Ah 50C 3S lipo I just picked up with 12awg wires performs even worse than the 16Ah 10C Lipo I had earlier

Regardless of which "pocket" spot welder you use (I have found four different models), I recommend that you go for the 3S / 130C LiPo...https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-battery-nano-tech-5000mah-3s-65-130c-lipo-pack-xt-90.html?___store=en_us

I actually just picked this one up yesterday

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/graphene-5000mah-3s-65c-w-xt90.html

A fair bit cheaper, and looks to be the exact same specs.
 
The latest model is more resilient to 4s but i suspect (not confirmed by the creator) that it requires a better 3s lipo to provide fine results on thick/wide tabs. I always used a top quality lipo (the one spinningmagnets pointed) and i have the V1 so i can't confirm it. Latest users reported low performance with unknown lipo brands or just garbage around. The better the lipo the better the welds. I think i will update the first post and recommend only top quality lipos. Real C matters, big amps is a must for hq welds.
 
Spongeworthy said:
spinningmagnets said:
a 5Ah 50C 3S lipo I just picked up with 12awg wires performs even worse than the 16Ah 10C Lipo I had earlier

Regardless of which "pocket" spot welder you use (I have found four different models), I recommend that you go for the 3S / 130C LiPo...https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-battery-nano-tech-5000mah-3s-65-130c-lipo-pack-xt-90.html?___store=en_us

I actually just picked this one up yesterday

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/graphene-5000mah-3s-65c-w-xt90.html

A fair bit cheaper, and looks to be the exact same specs.

Take whatever Hobbyking states as C-rating, and halve it, if not more, like take 75% off their C-rating.
 
After not using it for almost 2 weeks, the spot welder doesn't even function anymore. The display turns on but trying to weld in automatic or using a switch doesn't work at all, I've tried with my old lipo and a new one. Anyone else have problems with the welder just not functioning?
 
Using the switch stopped working, although the switch itself tested working. Auto still works for me. I think my battery pack maybe the reason why the welds on my .2mm nickel tabs aren't good.
 
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