Just_Ed
10 kW
SlowCo said:Great result :thumb:
Wiring and then powering it up always is a little nerve-racking.
Does having the fire dept
and EMT on notice and on speed dial constitute nerve-racking?
C Cab Hot Rod Power Advice
- Thread starter Just_Ed
- Start date
Does having the fire dept
and EMT on notice and on speed dial constitute nerve-racking?
SlowCo
1 MW
That is just common sense :lol:
Just_Ed
10 kW
Drink holders arrive. Found the tray at my local Target store.
Not sure which way to go. Using the catch-all tray seems like too much...overkill. Actual utilization is unknown.
Maybe just using the drink holders makes for a cleaner look, and put the other 'things' elsewhere or don't bring along those things.
Not sure which way to go. Using the catch-all tray seems like too much...overkill. Actual utilization is unknown.
Maybe just using the drink holders makes for a cleaner look, and put the other 'things' elsewhere or don't bring along those things.
I like just the drink holders. You may need them removable or have a hole drilled in the bottom to deal with spills.
Just_Ed
10 kW
fechter said:
For sure on the holes. They are designed as drop-in cups.
I haven't cut yet because of indecision on whether to include the 'baking pan' insert as well.
And thank you for the advice getting me to this point. I was like a proud papa yesterday when all went well.
Just_Ed
10 kW
The moon, stars, planets, mood, weather, and enthusiasm all lined up today.
So I tackled some more wiring. Went for the turn signals today. All went well, with each light working as it's supposed to. The problem is I can't get it to stop working.
I've stared at it long enough. I have to call in the cavalry.
A picture is worth...well you know how that goes.
The red wire to the brake light switch is [NOT] hooked up.
I did try a touch test to see if it made a difference and I got nothing.
I opened the switch but didn't notice anything wrong. Though there may be a connection in there that isn't noticeable when closed ???
So I've come back to the experts.
So I tackled some more wiring. Went for the turn signals today. All went well, with each light working as it's supposed to. The problem is I can't get it to stop working.
I've stared at it long enough. I have to call in the cavalry.
A picture is worth...well you know how that goes.
The red wire to the brake light switch is [NOT] hooked up.
I did try a touch test to see if it made a difference and I got nothing.
I opened the switch but didn't notice anything wrong. Though there may be a connection in there that isn't noticeable when closed ???
So I've come back to the experts.
Are there any other instructions for the signal switch?
The blue wire should be going only to the indicator on the lever. The black wire is the "load" for the flasher and should not be connected to anything when the switch is off.
You may need to disconnect a few things and use an ohmmeter to see what gets connected when you move the lever. The black wire should not be connected to anything when the switch is off. It should connect to the lamp lines only when you turn the switch on.
Edit: I randomly ran across this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1_YUxSkRXkU
Read the comments below the video.
Try disconnecting the blue wire?
The blue wire should be going only to the indicator on the lever. The black wire is the "load" for the flasher and should not be connected to anything when the switch is off.
You may need to disconnect a few things and use an ohmmeter to see what gets connected when you move the lever. The black wire should not be connected to anything when the switch is off. It should connect to the lamp lines only when you turn the switch on.
Edit: I randomly ran across this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1_YUxSkRXkU
Read the comments below the video.
Try disconnecting the blue wire?
Just_Ed
10 kW
Morning Fechter
Here's what I have done so far.
Using my multimeter I checked all wires coming/going to the various lights. The switch and lights all work as they are supposed to.
I opened the switch twice now, to see if there is something amiss in there. Still not sure what I am looking for. A short of some sort I presume.
I took this pic for you, that shows how everything is connected. I'm not comprehending where the power is coming from to make the flasher and the switch lights work when the switch handle is in the 'off' position.
I found one Youtuber that had the same problem and he just disconnected the blue 'pilot light' wire and it worked, but with no lights on the switch. Mine stopped working altogether.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rl59iZaEnoo
I also tried a two prong flasher, but it didn't work, although there were 12 volts showing on the meter.
Here's what I have done so far.
Using my multimeter I checked all wires coming/going to the various lights. The switch and lights all work as they are supposed to.
I opened the switch twice now, to see if there is something amiss in there. Still not sure what I am looking for. A short of some sort I presume.
I took this pic for you, that shows how everything is connected. I'm not comprehending where the power is coming from to make the flasher and the switch lights work when the switch handle is in the 'off' position.
I found one Youtuber that had the same problem and he just disconnected the blue 'pilot light' wire and it worked, but with no lights on the switch. Mine stopped working altogether.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rl59iZaEnoo
I also tried a two prong flasher, but it didn't work, although there were 12 volts showing on the meter.
Just_Ed
10 kW
The inside of the switch.
The lower left contact looks slightly bent out of position.
Can't really tell if it's anything significant.
The (brown) lead for the right rear light.
Still working out how these connectors work with each other.
The lower left contact looks slightly bent out of position.
Can't really tell if it's anything significant.
The (brown) lead for the right rear light.
Still working out how these connectors work with each other.
Just_Ed
10 kW
It's the pull knob for the 4-way signals.
Just_Ed
10 kW
Didn't answer your question fechter - no instructions. The yellow diagram is a blow-up of the instructions on the box.
I worked with the wiring again this morning. Checked my LED rear lights to see if they will work and they do with this setup. Rechecked to make sure everything is connected as it is diagramed. A-OK.
Blew a 20 amp fuse somehow while checking the LED lights. Replaced and continued.
The last thing I tried was to remove the 'black' wire. Nothing changed.
The flasher kept clicking and the lights on the switch kept on flashing.
Reminder - when removing the blue 'pilot light' wire all stops.
I worked with the wiring again this morning. Checked my LED rear lights to see if they will work and they do with this setup. Rechecked to make sure everything is connected as it is diagramed. A-OK.
Blew a 20 amp fuse somehow while checking the LED lights. Replaced and continued.
The last thing I tried was to remove the 'black' wire. Nothing changed.
The flasher kept clicking and the lights on the switch kept on flashing.
Reminder - when removing the blue 'pilot light' wire all stops.
Just_Ed
10 kW
Still trying to figure out how this circuit is getting its power when off.
Seems like the emergency flasher thing is stuck on.
Otherwise, you're doing what I would try to do. Trace out the wires and see where the current flows.
Otherwise, you're doing what I would try to do. Trace out the wires and see where the current flows.
Just_Ed
10 kW
It's 30 degrees in my shop, and I'm grasping for straws.
Isolated the contacts for the 4-way and the 'pilot' light and flasher just kept clicking and winking at me,
as if saying "nope that's not it fool"
So I guess it's in the 6 contact rotary contacts ...maybe?
Just_Ed
10 kW
A problem with no answer ?- Grrrrr: 
This project has come to a screeching halt.
Still no luck in solving this project halting, annoying problem.
I've had people from far and wide, offering advice, and still no answer.
Even had help from Speedway motors and they couldn't help. In fact, they suggested I don't even buy their, same switch.
I have blown about 5 fuses, and melted the wires (helped by a friend) trying to reason why?
I bought a second switch from a different supplier and that switch does the same thing.
I thought maybe it had something to do with the wiring in the car. NOT.
I tried the switch with external batteries hooked up and the same problem persists.
I seemed to be left with two options.
Replace this switch with a different kind, and ruin the aesthetics of that part of the project. (Not a desired choice)
Modify the switch so that it will not make electrical contact while in the off position. And using a secondary method for 4-way warnings lights.
This project has come to a screeching halt.
Still no luck in solving this project halting, annoying problem.
I've had people from far and wide, offering advice, and still no answer.
Even had help from Speedway motors and they couldn't help. In fact, they suggested I don't even buy their, same switch.
I have blown about 5 fuses, and melted the wires (helped by a friend) trying to reason why?
I bought a second switch from a different supplier and that switch does the same thing.
I thought maybe it had something to do with the wiring in the car. NOT.
I tried the switch with external batteries hooked up and the same problem persists.
I seemed to be left with two options.
Replace this switch with a different kind, and ruin the aesthetics of that part of the project. (Not a desired choice)
Modify the switch so that it will not make electrical contact while in the off position. And using a secondary method for 4-way warnings lights.
I may be misunderstanding, but if the problem stops when the pilot light is disconnected, then it sounds like the pilot light may be connected directly across the system ground and the flasher input, so it just always makes the flasher operate, and always blinks the pilot light. (it should be in series with the flasher input, so it only operates when one or more signals are operating in flasher mode).
But that wouldnt' explain the overcurrent / shorting problem(s). That sounds like a miswire internally, where one of the color coded wires isn't wired to the terminal it is supposed to be, from the factory. So when you follow the provided wiring diagram, it ends up shorting something instead.
I'll have to ponder the physical connections visible in the pictures vs the wiring and see if I can figure it out.
But that wouldnt' explain the overcurrent / shorting problem(s). That sounds like a miswire internally, where one of the color coded wires isn't wired to the terminal it is supposed to be, from the factory. So when you follow the provided wiring diagram, it ends up shorting something instead.
I'll have to ponder the physical connections visible in the pictures vs the wiring and see if I can figure it out.
Just_Ed
10 kW
amberwolf said:
Thanks, Amberwolf. FYI -The new and old switches are wired internally exactly the same.
I have messed around with the old(first) switch so much, that the 'black' wire has broken off. Now I need to buy soldering tools. Something I've been putting off for literally years.
I wish you the best of luck. I played around with it this morning, trying to fathom what possibly could be causing this, but I'm none the wiser.
:xIn the attached photo, (for clarity) the switch handle is always making contact. The blue 'pilot light' wire acts as the system ground. When I use the black wire (that goes to the 4-way) nothing happens.
When I modify the switch (isolate the middle notch of the 3-notches), the lights and flasher cease working, which is correct. And the only contact remaining is when the handle is moved left or right. Then those lights/flashers work. I have found that when I do that I lose, the 4-way flasher, which isn't that much of a problem. I will use another type of switch for that if needed.
Just_Ed
10 kW
More fodder for the problem.
I tried yet again, just in case I miss something.
Desperate I connected the (red) wire that is supposed to go to the brake switch. I connected it to the flasher (P) first, then to (L). Nothing! Also tried it with the 4-way pulled out, Nothing.
It seems the ONLY time the flasher/light works is using the blue wire either in the (P) or (L) position.
So we are back to square one...the flasher/light WON"T SHUT OFF.
I tried yet again, just in case I miss something.
Desperate I connected the (red) wire that is supposed to go to the brake switch. I connected it to the flasher (P) first, then to (L). Nothing! Also tried it with the 4-way pulled out, Nothing.
It seems the ONLY time the flasher/light works is using the blue wire either in the (P) or (L) position.
So we are back to square one...the flasher/light WON"T SHUT OFF.
If I can find time, I'll try to trace out your circuit. Your exploded pictures should be enough to figure the thing out, but it is complicated. Clearly, the supplied wiring diagram is not quite correct. Possibly some colors got switched around. It's hard to visualize how the contacts are aligned in all positions. I'm sure there's a way to make it work.
Just_Ed
10 kW
fechter said:
Thanks, fechter
How does something that appears to be so simple cause such a problem?
If you need more pics just ask.
j bjork
1 MW
I hang up on in the wiring diagram there is no ground, the black wire goes to the relay.
But in your picture the black goes to ground?
But in your picture the black goes to ground?
Just_Ed
10 kW
j bjork said:
The wiring diagram shows the black wire going between the switch and the flasher.
Tracing the path, in reality, the black wire goes as shown.
In all of the blinker wiring I have ever done, there is no ground (or power source) into or out of any of the switching circuits. The ground is at the lamps themselves, only. (well, the LED-compatible flasher I use has a ground, and a power, but those are separate from the switches and don't go to them).
All of the switching I have used just takes the blinker signal output, and routes it to the positive side of the lamps themselves.
I have not yet had time to trace out and draw up the internal diagram of what that switch does, but once I do i should be able to verify if it actually matches the diagram they provide, and give you a connection scheme that would work correctly.
All of the switching I have used just takes the blinker signal output, and routes it to the positive side of the lamps themselves.
I have not yet had time to trace out and draw up the internal diagram of what that switch does, but once I do i should be able to verify if it actually matches the diagram they provide, and give you a connection scheme that would work correctly.
Just_Ed
10 kW
FYI - my helpers
Some more clarity maybe.
The red wire marked (12 volt PWR) is actually the wire that would be going to the brake switch.
And looking at the three (RED) contacts on the bottom half of the switch All three are contacting the three corresponding three in the upper half when the switch is in the OFF position. If any of that means anything.
Some more clarity maybe.
The red wire marked (12 volt PWR) is actually the wire that would be going to the brake switch.
And looking at the three (RED) contacts on the bottom half of the switch All three are contacting the three corresponding three in the upper half when the switch is in the OFF position. If any of that means anything.