Conhismotor 48V 1000W with Ping 48V 20ah kit review

[Coen]

I didnt find any thread strictly a Conhismotor review, so i put my review here. This is my first kit.

Pictures are thumbnails, so you can view them larger by clicking them.

They are taken with my Nokia N900 so the quality is what it is, but better than no pictures at all.

I ordered the set 9.8.2010, it was sent at 13.8.2010.

My Conhismotor arrived 14.8.2010, but i got it out of the customs 18.8.2010.

Finnis Customs Post




Have to wait there like 50 minutes just to pay them 70 euros tax and vat.

This is what i recieved, weight was 11,8 kg.



It was packeted very well. Price was marked as 60$, but in Finland they want to see the receipt, so no luck there.





First thing i noticed, that it isnt completly black, like Kentlim's hub seems to be.



There is 4 shiny stripes on the hub (like you cant see yourself

The tire says max 85 kgs load.

Controller came with a nice pouch.

I took a couple of pictures how controller is made against moisture.



This is a bad picture, but it shows some kind of sealant over the screws.



This was the only information about the controller.
I wonder if that came from the same address than my charger:
http://www.chargerschina.com/Brushless-Electric-Vehicle-Controller_124.html

The controller in the picture is smaller than mine but no text in that either.



There was another pouch (for the battery) where was a lot of stuff.

There was also a pedelec sensor and brake levers, wich i didnt order. I think for "Jason" (from Conhismotor) its easier just to buy complete kits and post them, than open them up and take something out.
If thats not the case, thanks for the extras!



There was also a AC / DC charger, says 59V 2,5ah for DC.

Couple pics here.



Shua Guan Intelligent Charger
Their website http://www.chargerschina.com/


This makes me wonder. People have had problems with regenerative controllers, i ordered a standard controller, still i got these.
Is regenerative controller bad ONLY if you plug the ebrakes?
*edit* so my controller isnt regenerative, they send brake levers, cause when you use brake (if its properly connected), it shuts the power down.



Ok, last night i had enough time to install the hubwheel, i had to grind the fork just a little bit to get that axle to squeeze in.



Maybe i have to change my fork, cause the RST is crappy at best, but i give it a try.


A pic of my Insera, kinda crappy frame (atleast 7005 aluminium), and lousy fork, but all the parts are XT or LX Deore, so its ok for me.


Now im guessing where to put controller, it has to be as stealth as possible. Maybe like a side bag?


Now i measured the controller, the measuring tape is in centimetres.
Lenght


Width


Of course i forgot to measure the height, but maybe like 5 cm.


I think i wait for the battery arrive, then make decisions for the placement.

This arrived today from Germany


Its from Hobby King http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=10080

Havent figured out, where to put it, maybe in the handlebar..

This i wasnt thinking about before Kentlim told his bike falling off several times. I tought that i need a sturdy kickstand to keep it from falling.


Assembled in to the bike


Ugly? Maybe, but very sturdy and cheap, 6,99€ from http://www.biltema.fi/

Now it lifts the rear tyre in the air, but when the battery is assembled, its the other way round.

I start to put a day on new posts, maybe easier to read that way.

21.08.2010

I noticed that while the plastic gland is covered with silicone by the wires, the gland dont have any sealant. I dont know if this is necessary, but i put a little silicone just to make sure.
Before


After


I dont know if there is enough silicone, but better than nothing.

Put some silicone where the wires come out (i was too lazy to open the bolts..).


Then i installed the thumb throttle on. Its a pain cause with my gear shifter/brake lever combo dont sit well with that.

When they are apart like that, there is enough room to every switch / lever to work.


I had a bunch of zip ties lying around, so decided to put the controller on the bike.

On the controller is two little niches (is this the right word for it?), which fit nicely on my bikes frame.
So i decided to zip tie the controller on the frame just to look, if its going stay.


I think it looks good. Not very stealt though. But maybe with a cover of somekind?

From the top of the frame, it shows barely at all.


From the wires hanging, you can tell its there!

Couldnt put the PAS censor on place cause the fricken crank arm is stuck. So i have to buy a crank arm puller . I try to get one today.

So at this point the bike looks like this.


Its still missing atleast:

Fenders
Light (prob
Case for the battery
Cover plates (or something similar) for controller
Bicycle speedometer
Turnigy analyzer
Saddlebags

22.08.2010

I got some of the things needed and started put the in the bike.

First i got a crank arm remover from biltema, costs around 6€.


Took crank arm off just to realize that the sencor dont fit there. Put the magnet disc on place. Used a zip tie for the censor (got to do better attachment later).


And installed a motorcycle back pack, fenders and a lock.



Bike now weights 54lbs, with driver 278lbs. Without battery .


So this is a start. I dont yet have my Ping and dont know when i have time to install this, but its a start anyway!

If you have knowledge, suggestions, or questions, feel free to post them here!

Story continues on page 2

 

[Pedalex]

Hi! (and greets from Austria)

the grey charger is only for lead batteries so better put it away you won´t need it..

but you´ll need the ebrakes (or get some better ones ) OR you should drive really carefully and don´t let other people try your bike because when using the pedal assist sensor the motor keeps powering for ~2 seconds after you stop pedaling. i still don´t have them in use since i´m still looking for hydraulic brakes and will have to do that with reed switches glued on.


i had the regenerative controller ( which is a bit smaller by the way) but i damaged it (by connecting the purple and the black wire as mentioned in the wiring diagram - ran good before that ) but the regen mode is not very effective and an extra risc to damage the batteries so not worth i think.

standard controller is 2 or 3 cm longer

i made one big mistake - i should have read more before ordering but i didn´t so now i have the conhismotor 1000W kit but only the 48V10ah Lifepo4 pack
http://www.conhismotor.com/ProductShow.asp?id=43
which came in the aluminium case and has a discharge rate of 12 A while the controller drags a max. of 31 amps so i guess when using full power my battery pack won´t live long but it´s good for the low power kits and since i have to take the battery up into my apartment to charge it was good and the keylock with the slide on mechanism makes it hard to steal it - was´n´t easy to put it into the frame and have enough space to slide it out a bit to the front than a bit to the side.

however even though it will kill the battery it runs great - when pedaling hard i do 54-57 km/h even with the 2.4" tires but after 7 miles it switches off although both power indicators ( one at the twist throttle, one on the battery case) still show full. and with he 2A charger it shows full after just 2 hours so that´s a bit less than 4 ah, strange....

so at the moment i´m looking for a 10-15 ah Lifepo battery that delivers 30A continuously - hard to find :|

shouldn´t be too big so i can still put it into my frame OR should be a flat shape like two laptops to fit in a backpack.

my setup few weeks ago - meanwhile got a bigger chainwheel (48 instead of 42 - helps a bit but 52 would be better for higher speeds)
i´ll soon take it all apart and paint the bike in white

http://1.2.3.13/bmi/carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/113/1249/25280624003_large.jpg

 

[Coen]

Hi Pedalex and thank you for the info!

You talked about those hand brake levers, but what i had in mind, was to put only the thumb power switch on the bike.

Not those levers that came with the kit and no pedelec / PAS censor. Do i have a problem here?

Im trying to keep it simple as possible.

Did you post some image in your post, if you did i dont see it.

And in this point im almost certain, that Conhismotor isnt a factory, who makes these. Conhismotor is "Jasons" business where he sells ebike parts and acessories, but dont manufacture them. Nothing wrong with that though.

 

[kentlim26]

Hi Coen,

the grey charger. (have to test it with a multi meter) i have recieved my grey charger didn't work. i won't be using it too. yes, it is for SLA charger. it is somehow like a Gift from they, sadly it didn't work. Myself used only thumb throttle, there is a button (is also work like pedal sensor, when is pressed. Power cut off, it is a safety features build in. many thumb throttles do not have this !! anything goes wrong.. PRESS that button, power totally cut off.) As for the thumb throttle, there is a little hole ( that one you got to take care, cover a plastic incase if you are riding, sudden there is a big down pour rain. i ever got my water slip into my thumb throttle.. .. strange things happen) simply cover a plastic .. it will works. your charger is a standard charger. For a regen type, it will cost alot More.

i didn't used ebrake level too, they given to me. i think maybe it helps. My ebike shop dealer... keep on asking me to fix that ebrake lever... i think.. (no need, i don't really dare to say, he was my elder) i have been running this motor more then 2100km,, ok ok without any brake lever supply by them. i just keep on side.

Yes, the conhismotor 48v 12hr their battery is a smaller cells. As long is 48v 12hr lifepo4 in ebay, or Conhismotor, or any other web site, it is very likely to be a smaller cells. unless it from Ping battery, their cells could be huge ones. 5A each. so it is better to specific the cells you are buying from the dealer/ seller. that is why i bought my cells specific 38140s to do 30amper.. contineous for a few mins. your hub motor seem to be different with my kit. when i have ordered, they didn't give me a free bag. no free tyre and inner tube also.

your packing is much nicer then my, it seem more secure. they use better quality tape. The sending is very fast, 4days only.

For the controller must have good Air flow. I ever once put it inside my Giv Box.. wow... So hot to touch, so that is how come i build it outside. my technican friend say, Outside air cool much faster then using a fan to blow. ( this is very true, i bought a fan to blow onto the controller (inside my Giv box) , but it fails, it is too hot to touch) when i put outside of my bike.. No heat problems.

my ebike consist afew things only. 1. thumb controller, 2. 48v 1000watts controller, 3. hub wheel 4. battery. no pedal senor,, no e brake lever.

cheers
kentlim

 

[Pedalex]

You talked about those hand brake levers, but what i had in mind, was to put only the thumb power switch on the bike.

Not those levers that came with the kit and no pedelec / PAS censor. Do i have a problem here?

the brake levers are only necessary when using the PA sensor - i would prefer istalling the PAS - maybe with a switch to turn it off but it´s really fun. sometimes my sensor moves a bit and doesn´t work - and without the sensor only with the twist throttle it´s not even half the fun - far from half i´d say - give it a try. only thing is now that i´m using the PAS and do not have the brake levers it´s not so easy stopping at red lights when i need to pedal a bit to shift down to a lower gear for a better take off. first 2 or 3 meters are a bit hard in highest gear when only using the PAS signal - i hardly ever use the twist throttle...


by the way - i just ordered a Conhis 48v 350w mini motor kit for my town-bike
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/625/460/26560229612_large.jpg

so i can use my 10Ah battery pack for this slow one and buy a strong pack for my MTB

 

[kentlim26]

your controller 48v 1000watts length looks like more then 20cm+ + , my is only 6" in length. the controller work the same, in anyway. i think so. my friend had a cammy controller, look exactly like your, much longer and bigger. it is actually better, becasue the heat can easily spread out to faster.. you can easily see, huge size controller is better for heat dispers. my friend had a cammy controller run on a 500watts motor 48v, the efficiency is no so efficient. eg speed 40km/h - it will easily takes 15+ wh/ km. for this conhismotor will takes only 10-12 wh/ km for 40km/h 1000watts 48v is best (i really think so) for efficient.

actually my controller is shinny one, i spray them black, becasue i just trying to avoid notice from outside guys, either they are thiefs or police.. ha ha

cheers
kentlim

 

[Coen]

i would prefer istalling the PAS - maybe with a switch to turn it off but it´s really fun. sometimes my sensor moves a bit and doesn´t work - and without the sensor only with the twist throttle it´s not even half the fun - far from half i´d say - give it a try. only thing is now that i´m using the PAS and do not have the brake levers it´s not so easy stopping at red lights when i need to pedal a bit to shift down to a lower gear for a better take off. first 2 or 3 meters are a bit hard in highest gear when only using the PAS signal - i hardly ever use the twist throttle...

You see, i dont have experience about ebikes, so didnt even tought of that. I was sure that PAS is useless, but now im going to install it and try, thanks!

Nice looking bike btw.

Kentlim, im going to measure the controller, so i can tell you the dimensions exactly.

 

[D-Man]

Con his motor? So who's motor got conned? I don't get it.

 

[kentlim26]

It was a just a name, Conhismotor, just like "golden motor" BMC, ya. the name is abit funny. they are electric bike kit. http://www.flickr.com/photos/kentlim26 , just came to my home 4days also, just i don't have a bag "Missing" , no tyre and inner tube.This kit ship to me only USD250 (everything inside) for the price. it has include a great efficency Under 1630watts max. the name is easier for you to remember too ! in Hokkien dialect " Conhis motor"... = talk about motor !!

cheers
kentlim

 

[Coen]

Con his motor? So who's motor got conned? I don't get it.

Yea, chinese have wonderful names for their companys.

Con can also be from Conan 'O Brian show, just look the companys logo and Conans late night logo.

Sorry guys for not having a much of a review yet. Its just cause i dont have a battery yet. But its coming soon.

Meanwhile i updated a couple of pictures, make them a little bigger, so easier to look.

 

[kentlim26]

Hi Coen,

my friends uses a cammy controller has the same lenght like yours. there is no heat, or very little heat out from the controller, it really cools very fast. Controller must be outside, allow air to flow throu. it cannot be enclosed or else it will be too hot to touch. even i had add one good fan BLOW SGD25.00 , can't helps at all. so i build controller outside my frame, air still can pass thro,, okay. (i have also add silicon just incase to prevent water to slip in.) my 1st experience with cyclone kit, has made them waterproof, at times, i have to ride under heavy rain.

cheers
kentlim

 

[DSX]

Coen,

Are your forks aluminium? Looking closely at your photo I think they are (check with magnet). CHM does not usually supply a torque arm it's important to have one installed. Unless carefully installed with the appropriate washers or custom made washers (see Dogmans review on washers in this section and else where) you risk twisting the axle in the dropouts, cutting your wires and worst of all taking a face plant. I'd hate to hear about another e-biker getting injured.

I would recommend going to steel forks.

Your controller is the same length as mine. You have slightly different D covers on your motor, I have similar covers on my old motor and it was a bit quieter but in real terms this is of no significance.

Your Ping battery, as you may know, will require breaking in. Charge on receival so the BMS lights up all 16 mine took a while. Check the voltage: 60V plus or minus about a volt is normal. Ride say ~3km go home recharge ride ~6km recharge etc do this about 6 times doubling the distance and don't spend too much time at full throttle (this will be hard to resist :lol: ).

Keep the battery on charge as long as possible for the first week or two. The battery should feel stronger each charge.

The SLA charger if it works should be OK to charge after your battery is well broken in. I charge at work with an SLA charger and at home with the Ping charger.

I have a few pics of my ride at: www.flickr.com/photos/DSX5000

Cheers DSX

 

[kentlim26]

hi Dsx,

i cannot get your link. it should be this one. http://www.flickr.com/photos/49859130@N02/4649233270/

that is strange. My controller is different from you too. but im fine with the shorter in length controller, as long it can give me 1500watts or 1600watts peak, i don't mind. im happy about it. Not more then that, becasue any higher peak = range will be reduce. the Wh/ km will also affected. staying at speed 45km/h - 51km/h is still best for ebike. they aren't not slow too to 65km/h.

cheers.
kentlim

 

[DSX]

Kentlim, Thanks for sorting that.

DSX

 

[Coen]

Thank you DSX for sharing your experience.

That was very nice and simple instructions how to start using new Ping battery.

Very usefull and the problem on ES is there is a lot of information but its kinda hard to find it from all of the threads.

Im going to have my battery send in next week, if everything goes like planned.

 

[reb1]

Looks like a good setup. If you plan on pedaling much faster than 50KPH then I suggest really good brakes. The Magura HS33 are the best there is. They are hydraulic rim brakes. I have had them on my tandem for nine years with no other maintenance than changing the pads. The pads can be changed by hand with no tools. I am on my 7th set of pads.

 

[RICK]

be sure to plug your cables together on the Ping before plugging in the charger - might fry something otherwise (I almost did)..

 

[Coen]

reb1

I got Shimano Deore XT brakes on my bike. I have always thinked that they are too "strong" and locks the rear tire too easy.

So i kinda hope that with the extra weight they are in balance with the bike. Also im not going to do commute over 30km / h, cause i dont want
cops pay attention to me.

RICK

I will.

 

[Pedalex]

reb1
i dont want cops pay attention to me.

maybe you should mount the controller between the rear tire and the rack - would look much better.


i repainted my bike, my motor and i´m hiding my controller in the saddle bag ( i made some holes and no heat problems yet). my battery pack is now in a laptop backpack. since i had to take it off and take it up to my apartment to charge it it´s a very good solution and makes my bike much easier to carry and it looks much nicer

 

[Fenman]

This sounds just like the setup I have started to do,My ping battery is here ready to go, 48v 20a
On my battery s I had 4 wires coming out of it
The large Red and Black for Discharge
The thin Red for + charge
The thin Blue for - charge
Just waiting on the Conhismotor to get here,been a week since I payed for it ,no tracking number but Jason says its sorted, ,So long as its here for the end of next week I will be a happy bunny,and I will update what is in my kit,
Its a 48v front wheel kit But I may invest in a back wheel kit later with the 6 speed gearing as the front wheel cant take a disc brake
What size topbox are you useing to hold your batterys

 

[Coen]

Pedalex

When i get my battery (now in Helsingborg), im going to check if it leaves enough space to add controller on the rear box.

Very clean looking bike you have, very nice!

Fenman

By topbox you mean that "motorcycle box" on my rear rack, its 24 litres, 40 x 38 x 30 cm (L*W*H).

 

[Coen]

01.09.2010

Ping has arrived! Also got email from ebikes.ca, that my torgue arms (v3) are now sent and they are sorry for delay.

Very nice packaging.


Looking a bit suspicious..


Under the styrofoam, i found 2ah charger.


The model is KP6002WL, my google search came up with nothing.



More unwrapping.


There peaks the battery and BMS.


Charger ends look like this.


So i connect the BMS wires (marked with A,A,B and B) together, A against A and B agains B. Then connected the charger, and after 6 hours, tadaa!
When you start loading, there is no lights whatsoever, so dont worry, they should come up when theyhave balanced the cells.


Charger stopped the fan and lights told me its ready to go.


What happened next..

I chose to rip the controller of the frame and put it in the back box with the battery.
Then i plugged everything together for a test drive. First impression, this got some power!

Its my first ebike, so i tought it would be slackier, but this was going fast! I think it accelerates faster than regular moped, but i can be wrong, have to measure it.

Everything was going nicely, then i remebered, that people say that hubles motors dont have very much torgue. I decided to test it by climbing a step just using my motor.

BIG MISTAKE
I was so freakin dumb to think that my fork would stand the test, bullocks!
When you dont listen to people, this is what you get..
It was just a SNAP sound and that was it. Luckily, my motor + hall wires didnt take damage (i hope, confirming tomorrow).


Well, i bought a new fork (as shitty as the first one) and im going to assemble it back on the bike tonight. Still going to run it without t-arms (cause i dont have those yet), just have to b VERY CAREFULL.

Summing up my test drive: ITS FREAKIN FUN!!! And Conhismotor seems very quiet and powerfull motor. Ping battery seems very well built and very good communication trough the process. At this point i give both 5 stars!

 

[jondoh]

those aluminum forks? Try steel if you can. Steel can still spread apart but they won't just "snap".

That's crazy! Good to see you can have your dropouts break and not go head over heals.

 

[kentlim26]

Hi Coen,

remember Dsx mention about.. Aluminum/ alloy fork? they seem to be scary Truth. The material has be to something different. some has suggest a steel fork with suspension ? Wow. the ping packing is 5 times, better then the BMSbattery packing. when i received it, my box had a little damage at one corner, but luckily nothing damage on lifepo4. when i open up, the protection was very simple..

it is shocking. it is very experiment photos to learn something about alloy/ alumimum fork strength is insufficient/ or very weak. i think my fork is the same meterial quality like yours. Got to be careful on buying a fork, they must be really a heavy duty ones. i can see many guys in here seem to use a alloy/ alumimum fork.

best regards
kentlim

 

[Coen]

those aluminum forks? Try steel if you can. Steel can still spread apart but they won't just "snap".

That's crazy! Good to see you can have your dropouts break and not go head over heals.

Yes they are cast aluminium, not good for this kind of use. What did i do? I bought new cast aluminium fork, cause it was only one i could get right away

So bike is allright now and tested freeroll (measured with calibrated Sigma meter) is 59,2 km/h. It was raining so i didnt try to get top speed but atleast it goes over 40 km/h with +100kg driver.

I think this will suite my need very well, but have to wait for those torque arms before i can really test the kit.