Costco deep cycle marine batteries for longe range?

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Sep 5, 2007
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florida
Ok, so I'm cheap. I was thinking, I've seen guys running rigs with trailers. I happen to have two matching huge deep cycle marine batteries in the garage. And I've seen used bike trailers for babies in the local classifieds for pennies on the dollar...

Is this type of thing commonly done? I think they are too heavy to strap on to the bicycle, but those things would basically mean unlimited range for me.
 
I remember at least one member here -- Rassy -- who uses a trailer for his batteries (and in this case two of the three hubmotors too :) ):
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=703&highlight=trailer
trike_with_trailer_197.jpg
 
But the kirkland marine batteries... would those be ok? I figure they would be a better choice than a starter battery since they are somewhat made for drain. You can't beat them as far as dollar per amp hour. Weight of course, is another story.
 
Sure they'll work if you can stand the weight and keep them from spilling if they're flooded batteries. I don't know if those marine batteries are true deep-cycle or not.

http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Battery_FAQ.htm
* Starting (sometimes called SLI, for starting, lighting, ignition) batteries are commonly used to start and run engines. Engine starters need a very large starting current for a very short time. Starting batteries have a large number of thin plates for maximum surface area. The plates are composed of a Lead "sponge", similar in appearance to a very fine foam sponge. This gives a very large surface area, but if deep cycled, this sponge will quickly be consumed and fall to the bottom of the cells. Automotive batteries will generally fail after 30-150 deep cycles if deep cycled, while they may last for thousands of cycles in normal starting use (2-5% discharge).

* Deep cycle batteries are designed to be discharged down as much as 80% time after time, and have much thicker plates. The major difference between a true deep cycle battery and others is that the plates are SOLID Lead plates - not sponge. Unfortunately, it is often impossible to tell what you are really buying in some of the discount stores or places that specialize in automotive batteries. The popular golf cart battery is generally a "semi" deep cycle - better than any starting battery, better than most marine, but not as good as a true deep cycle solid Lead plate, such the L-16 or industrial type. However, because the golf cart (T-105, US-2200, GC-4 etc) batteries are so common, they are usually quite economical for small to medium systems.
*
* Marine batteries are usually actually a "hybrid", and fall between the starting and deep-cycle batteries,though a few (Rolls-Surrette and Concorde, for example) are true deep cycle. In the hybrid, the plates may be composed of Lead sponge, but it is coarser and heavier than that used in starting batteries. It is often hard to tell what you are getting in a "marine" battery, but most are a hybrid. "Hybrid" types should not be discharged more than 50%. Starting batteries are usually rated at "CCA", or cold cranking amps, or "MCA", Marine cranking amps - the same as "CA". Any battery with the capacity shown in CA or MCA may not be a true deep-cycle battery. It is sometimes hard to tell, as the term deep cycle is sometimes overused. CA and MCA ratings are at 32 degrees F, while CCA is at zero degree F. Unfortunately, the only positive way to tell with some batteries is to buy one and cut it open - not much of an option.
 
Hrmm, since the kirkland ones are so affordable, they are probably not the true deep cycle ones. If a light trailer turns up in the local classifieds for cheap enoough I might give it a shot.
 
A call to the manufacturer will probably answer your questions as to "true" marine battery or any other kind.

Having owned a couple of golf carts and having changed batteries in them I can assure you that, more than anything else, they are heavy. Next they suck up juice when being charged and chargers are NOT inexpensive. Plus, because they are wet celled and require frequent fluid monitoring, they will leak. The leaks are corrosive. Look at the floor in any cart barn or cart staging area at any golf course and you can see that this stain does not come off.

But, in their favor, I've run mine down to the point where the cart will hardly move and they have always come back. Can't say the same for the 8D battery in my boat, it came back from the dead but it still has a lingering illness.
Mike
 
Carrying that much weight will slow you down. A small generator and a big charger will weigh about the same. Just food for thought, damm gennie is noisy too. 100 lbs slowed my trike by 10mph. Must be why the other guy had two motors.
 
I saw a picture on here somewhere of someone who had an xtracylce with racks where the pantiers(sp?) are to
hold 4 18AH Sla batteries 2 on each side. Assuming he's running 36v that's 36AH! I think about that system. Trailers seem cumbersome to me. I think it was someone in the UK. Anyone know where that picture is?
 
Seriously, scrounge up some cash, and get a lifpo4 if you want range. A 48v-20ah is only 20 pounds, so two of those would go a lot farther than any sise of lead, and not cost you so much speed. With lead, you start carrying more lead, to be albe to carry the lead. It can work on flat ground, but come to a hill and you are toast with too much lead.
 
It can work on flat ground, but come to a hill and you are toast with too much lead.

You might do best with a motor engaged through variable gearing on hills, but you would still have the issue of accelerating and decelerating a lot of weight.
 
I have been using costco marine 85ah batterys from 2005- so far no problems -but have not realy deepcycled them often- 30miles one day-

The bike that I am now using (tour easy 2 wheel recumbent) has a mars brushless motor on it (to a 16" highway hi speed trailer tire, rear) the batterys are in a 2 wheel trailer also (2 batterys + trailer about 140 lbs) the unit is geared for 22mph on the flat, it goes up hills with some loss of speed.

The only thing I did not like about the trailer (20" wheels) that it would hop when going over bumps in the road, so I added a rear bike spring pivot battery holder, the trailer does not transfer movement back to the bike- I forget that it even there.

I have the same trike as yxster, which when I was using it I had built a center wheel drive with 2 "training" wheels on the sides but with a perm 132 drive motor 24volt system. The reason I went to a center wheel drive was using a 2 wheel driven trailer but driving only one wheel the trailer would "crab" under a high load (hills) the tires were scrubbed bald in short order- both wheels being driven the scuffing should be minimal.
 
Whatever floats yer boat, go for it. I just feel packing 15 pounds of battery to go 20 miles at 25 mph is worth $500. With different sise wheels, climbing the hills is easier, and gearmotor is what I should really have for one mile of my 29 mile day. But carrying more lead on my trike, did not get me home. Ever. Lightweight lifpo4 did.
 
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