DH dual motor = LR mid drive + Grin all-axle front hub

I rode a cyclone recently and had one follow me. Sure it was quieter because it's reduction is inside but is sounded like mosquito.

Yeah your kit does sound louder than the cyclone I thought that was supposed to be one of the LR kit main advantages ? its probably because the cyclone has a higher RPM its sounds more hi- pitch to the rider but high pitch sounds don't travel as far as lower pitch ones so it won't travel as far to be heard.
 
jk1 said:
I rode a cyclone recently and had one follow me. Sure it was quieter because it's reduction is inside but is sounded like mosquito.

Yeah your kit does sound louder than the cyclone I thought that was supposed to be one of the LR kit main advantages ? its probably because the cyclone has a higher RPM its sounds more hi- pitch to the rider but high pitch sounds don't travel as far as lower pitch ones so it won't travel as far to be heard.

I dont have the stock kit with a belt.... I chose the 219 chain and understood the drawbacks..... no problem for out in the sticks....
 
John I'm sure there are lots more of us watching your thread/adventure and learning along with you. Thanks for all the info and love the pioneering spirit.

Ride on bro.
 
Wow didn't see all the replies on previous page, glad my misfortunes help some people :oops:

I'll be honest all the mechanics and compatability of things back there are driving me nuts.

This is the closest thing to an exploded view of my Mavic deetraks hub I could find.

12109169_10153588051069845_6831447683383350605_n.jpg


It looks like I can only see two bearings which sit in the hub...? I can't find the code of which hubbody this is to get an exploded view of only in it (unless this has been included alreday...?) I can't see another bearing set in this.... annoying.... I know I saw atleast one when I opened it up...

Is it possible that whole hub body is sitting on only one shitty bearing? way to small if so and totally inadequate.

I took at the DT swiss site and they just make me more confused... Mine is 12 x 150mm with a bolt together axle system that I am presume must be kept specific with my removable vertical dropouts on the m6. (it is different to the ends in the picture above which look like made for quick release or something...)

The DT exploded view

looks like much larger with two bearings inside. But it could be just the pic that they look so big?
Hub_240_Explosion_620x327px.jpg


Also after pulling off the wheel I know I needed to reexamine the very hard-to-see-inside behind the chainrings which were hitting the motor area.... Apart from the eaten off chainring nuts (which were temporary from another bike whilst waiting for my order of more) I have lost another bolt along the way somewhere.... This is about 3 parts that have fallen out of the kit now. One from JS that bent everything going into the chainring, one off the motor and now this....

I need to find out from Mike the exact spec of this, the length, pitch width etc. to replace it... The opposite side is still there and I don't know if this feeds right the way through the motor tube bit meaning it has snapped in half somehow?

12342800_10153667052529845_7262689539279593267_n.jpg


On the last ride once the rear hub had failed, I did notice the motor / kit moving around more underload..... this would explain it. I couldn't at the time work out the source of the fail since both the back and the front of the total chain system seemed to have loosened....

ahhh
 
If you haven't seen this article, it will help your understanding of the different solutions companies are using.
http://dirtmountainbike.com/features/work-freehub-body.html#ZyXIXrhXMZFzkgws.97

Take a look how the DTSwiss interlocks, simple and strong:
http%3A%2F%2Fcdn.coresites.factorymedia.com%2Fdirt_new%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2012%2F04%2Fdt-clutch-plates.jpg


Oh, I dug this up out of my archives. FW's are stronger than FHs, so if you can find a steel freehub body or make sure the base on this is wide enough to not slip, this would be an ideal solution. Someone needs to make these (fixed and Freewheeling) that slide over the standard FH body).
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=37640&p=548136&
 
Leebolectric said:
Plus one for DT Swiss...especially the 240s range...most load free hub mech on the market.
Next choice would be Hadley, industrial beef with high engagement (no website, only phone, LBS or BalleRacing)

Super stoked on watching this build come together John, I have a 951 I'm converting, and your issues have helped me a lot.
Thanks

I have been madly trying to find a version and a place to buy DT looking at a few forums and online shops :

difference looks like it comes down to weight and more weight between 350 and 420 so 350 looks the best option being $200 cheaper.

Nowhere has 150 x 12 in stock....

Have phoned up the most serious dh store in my town http://www.fortheriders.com.au/DT-Swiss-350-Rear-32h-Hub they should be able to do a special order am waiting on a call back or email....

$425 au is a lot of money to add on to this build and then slap spokes and another rim and tyres, but I don't see another way forward cheaper...

thanks for all the support with hub choice.... CK is way out of my price range. and there is no 2nd hand I can find of and I wouldn't trust buying on off anyone over the net....
 
These are the recomendations from the LMX website
Rear hub
Option 1 : Custom LMX anodised aluminium hub
Option 2 : 12*135mm hub Shimano FH-M640 (The freewheel can fail from the torque if you run 4kw and
 
LMX runs live chain for high power and the shimano is nothing special, correct me if I am wrong.

Yes I waited, I got my closest LBS say no can do for the dt swiss 350 and the dh shop same town no reply after a few days which for me means no can do too.

I have 3 weeks off starting Tuesday and no bike!!!!

I just ordered the Nukeproof because it's cheap / clearance free shipping full build 6 pawls ( the 4 pawls weren't a problem) and 6 bearings (the ???? less than 4 I am guessing on the mavic) so this should be an upgrade or atleast a low powered spare to get me rolling while I work out serious stuff. $200 is about 50% off..... supposedly not sure why they mention a steel carrier when it is not apart of the hub for sale?

prod89573_Black_NE_01


This is the new coolish thing about mid drives :) having a few replacement complete wheels to change out.....
 
Check this out http://www.balleracing.com/hadley-single-speed-135mm-x-10mm-ti-bolt-on-rear-hubs/hadley-rear-clear-ss-single-speed-10mm-ti-hub. Found the link on this thread. https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=74809.
 
ya, that was me that shred that link...they do make 150mm spacing like he's looking for.
They also have Ti,and Steel free hubs for less damage from cogs digging in.
 
Hadley has no website...but are legendary for durability in downhill.
 
stonezone said:
Oh, I dug this up out of my archives. FW's are stronger than FHs, so if you can find a steel freehub body or make sure the base on this is wide enough to not slip, this would be an ideal solution. Someone needs to make these (fixed and Freewheeling) that slide over the standard FH body).
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=37640&p=548136&

I have seen that coolness before. I don't see the logic of it unless running two chains to the rear.

If I could find someone to make a 150 x 12mm hub with threads for White industries Id be all over it. Even better if we could do WI without a thread but splines instead so we could space for perfect chain line.... oh well it would cost more than my bike and kit.

Just bought some M5 countersunk socket screws 25mm so that I can join two of these sprocket holder thingos together. I've got one from fouriers
1305160917.jpg

and the other origin 8,
imag0021.jpg

they look identical just different looking sprocket.... This should spread the weight across the body better although not ideal since I can't put two either side of the sprocket because of the line being right next to the dropout.

$_12.JPG


Unfortunately the heads are turned down like in this pic on the originals

Broached%20Hexagon%20Socket%20Flat%20Countersunk%20Head%20Cap%20Screws%20-%20Metric-perspectiveView.jpg036b8972-5adc-4f99-8438-9133f636247fLarge.jpg


So I will see how badly the outer holders sit and pull out a grinder maybe .... I know a guy in my town that could machine them down to fit snuggly just a pain to get out there. Might post them.... Expensive bloody screws in the end.

Dogboy and Leebolelectric,

I looked at the hadley, I found the 150 12, but can't find any exploded views of the system it runs. You guys found anything or can put it into words? I only found some pics of a 3 pawl system - dont know if it was the same as the 150 12 but that wont be enough.

EDIT 14/12

Update: LBS finally got back to me about the wheel I gave to them to repair, parts can't be got, only a complete hub and hub body, so it is a write off. I will not repair it.

Good thing I didn't buy tyres and tubes as I can salvage them off of this.

:cry:
 
John Bozi said:
Merry xmas boys

John that's similar to the way I turn down bolt heads except I use the drill along with an angle grinder, goes pretty quick.

Remember to use safety glasses not shot glasses.

Happy holidays.
 
Drew, the satiator is only mildly tempting now that I have a charger, the price is huge with our $AU, I have too many other things like the wheel to work out first on the $ front.

Marin, thanks for the tip. 8)

Working backwards, must mention I have shared some misinformation about my CA wiring mod. The image posted a page ago was quite old, the mod of swapping the green wire for CA to controller was only for V2 to V3 retrofit conversion. Sorry to any that may have followed that, it turns out the Ca is plug and play with new controllers. I work with the knowledge I have and don't intend to mislead. It drove me crazy trying to work out for so long anyway.......

I got my unfixed wheel back from LBS and got my good old neighbour over for a few beers and indepth study of what went wrong on the wheel, final conclusion we came to is that the ball bearings failed.

There are 4 bearings, two in the wheel and 2 in the hub body. The one under the sprocket was easy with close inspect to see that the outer and inner circles were good. It was just the balls that vaporized which caused the rest of the damage. Whether or not it can be salvaged is a tough question. I will see if it works with some new bearings but not sure with so much eaten off the bits inside. It would be nice if I could grind off the shoulders that stop the bearings from moving further inwards and instead of having a busing spacer, just filling the whole dam thing with bearings.

Looking at the size of the bearings I just can't see how they can cope with the amount of power and especially when cornering....

I don't see the point of an expensive hub which is about engagement when there was nothing damaged on the pawls, teeth etc.

I don't know but presume expensive ceramics etc are only designed for speed or less resistance and not so much for extra weight....

I hate bearings! I guess the white industries would be larger but the system doesn't fit 150 dropouts....

My new wheel is set to arrive soon and have fingers crossed that the bearings won't fail in a week of riding. There is a big maybe that having a second hand bike with bearings already shot could be the cause of the failure. This will be the true test now.

Hope you guys are enjoying ur break,

no bike makes John a sad boy...

EDIT 24/12

[youtube]Rx_2OdS1Vtk[/youtube]
 
Ride report

So after doing the over eating and a little food coma nap, all the clouds disappeared and as usual I ride at around the time of sunset.

It's the least busy and was surprised to only come across one cyclist, 2 bombers on all the tracks.

Let's go chronologically as my mind is always analyzing.

As I am a bit over of my testing area, I need to do a bit more road to save bats to get out to different areas. On road I am often thinking dam I'd like about another 20kmh top speed, and yet when I get home I think to myself no. NO no no. I have enjoyed that time of high speed on road and have another bike to get those kicks anyway... on top of that the less I am at high speeds the less chances I will kill myself or get done by the cops...... and I save power or need to carry less battery.

I felt like something different, so went up to some moderate downhill singletrack and only used a little bit of power on some short steep dips, the rest of the flat slow sections because very windy I tried to work off my xmas lunch and beer. It was therapeutic to pedal and the gearing is as perfect as single speed can get for pedalling a heavy bike. The weight of the bike and the large suspension just soaks up the bumps and it felt way better than doing this run than on my carbon unelectrified hardtail that costs $2k.

Surprised right? I was because I have always said if I could choose to go down this run with any type of bike it was always my carbon bike because it was whippy, but maybe I am getting to old and I feel every bump with it, and being overweight my back gets sore too....

Anyway so at the bottom at the mountain bike park ran into a couple of stealth guys, which was surprisingly the worst couple of ebikers I have ever tried talking to. I kept trying to start conversation that went pretty much nowhere, Are you guys on endless sphere? = what's that? how can you not know it I thought to myself....

Anyways I wanted to ride with them but they were finishing up unfortunately, and since our chat was so uncomfotable it felt dumb to try to get contact details for a ride another time..... I remember one guys name = Rodney.... Anyway I have ridden clyte motors a million times in the region and know that they would have been overheating everywhere so it would have been a totally out of sync ride.... they'd be faster on long open straights but then Id lose them on the hills and corners etc and Id be waiting over and over for them to cool down.....

I went riding alone quite a few areas for the first time with this kit was awesome and still no overheating and a cool controller. There were a few steeper than I have encountered bits and the motor was just slowing down to near bogging but still happy to easily ride through. I reckon a nudge up to 40 amps for these sections which are a bit smoother (not so much loose rock and ruts) would be nice.

It was a beautiful ride long enough to do lots of stuff, get a bit of exercise, do some mild jumps and zip through dippy windy firetrails by the dam ending with a huge full moon all the way home. Must have been gone about an hour and a half of almost continual riding bar 5 minutes of chatting and I only used 5ah!

Guy in a car started chatting with me, about my bike and was way cooler to talk to than the Stealth riders. He was a mountainbiker and just keen to know about my bike and non judgemental at all. He told me there was a new bmx pump track built up near the other side of the dam which I always ride past but never saw so will go to investigate that even though its not my thing....

Yea I am stoked when things are working. I am so tempted to put up the amps but want to get more miles out of this wheel before I break it....

hope you guys are enjoying your break as much as I am 8) .... sips beer... :mrgreen:
 
Ya having 2 bikes is great ht3525 running 84v and 50 amps pulls great as my daily commuter very fun I can hit 50 mph with everything turned up on my adaptto. My other bike is running new cyclone with rohloff at 2800 what's pulling 50 amps no problem with rohloff. And stock cyclone handled a 1hr off road hard abuse in a Enduro race against dirtbikes. I was waiting for something to break but handled great I think I will change the 44 tooth front sprocket tho I need more low end power for climbing .
 
Cheers Drew.

broke said:
Ya having 2 bikes is great ht3525 running 84v and 50 amps pulls great as my daily commuter very fun I can hit 50 mph with everything turned up on my adaptto. My other bike is running new cyclone with rohloff at 2800 what's pulling 50 amps no problem with rohloff. And stock cyclone handled a 1hr off road hard abuse in a Enduro race against dirtbikes. I was waiting for something to break but handled great I think I will change the 44 tooth front sprocket tho I need more low end power for climbing .

Broke,
you make me jealous of your rohloff! I now wish I set this up on a 135 dropout bike.... and bought the small block or similar.

Have you got a page where you document your thoughts / rides using the rohloff? I really want to see inside depth on this product from people using it with the kw u mentioned.... if not please drop a bit of a review right here :)

Price + shipping from where, complexity of maintenance, how it performs with gear changes / top speed bottom speed etc.

I would need a custom dropout which would probably be more expensive than just using another frame with another motor :shock: ah shit too many wants. and possibilities.

cheers
 
Sorry if these ride update might bore some people, but this is my blog and I like to put my thoughts down. Might help someone out there too.

This afternoon I used under 6.5ah in about 2 hours. I always thought 10ah wouldnt really be enough to have fun but that's heaps for me.

First went to find the new pump track and yeah it is cool! Lots of manicured berms and medium jumps down the side of a long hill. It was really hard to find the entrance to, but now see going this way past these jumps then leads down to my dam trails avoiding a km of road up a steep hill.... cool.

I rode a bit around the tracks and chatted for a while with all the guys down there. Surprised how many nice bicycle riders there are around and even a runner keen to chat.

I still get a few nasty sounding crunch sounds on very off beat kind of stuff. Hard to explain what it is, but it seems related to more extreme situations like running up a steep bit and compressing a lot of the rear suspension, this also happens a couple of times on really really rough rocky bits while under power.

Cool thing is on the smoother gravel erosion humps which I was worried about holding WOT whilst going over are not a problem as long as the rear wheel is mostly down. This makes an enormous difference to not losing momentum whilst climbing.

Also upped the power to 35a so yeah the more amps the more fun since I am not losing speed on hills as much.....

Weird thing is heat. I still haven't hit 50 degrees, but have started hand monitoring at the top of each hill. The motor is hot? Not too hot to hold but hot. It does raise suspisions. The controller weirdly enough is staying almost ambient temps which is awesome because I was worried about it when I first started this kit at high amps.
Now although I have pretty much pushed the motor to its limits in a few longer runs soon I must do the most gruelling continual steep mountain climb.

If I just use my hand to analyse how much temps the motor can handle I am glad I didn't buy the small block. I need to get a second temp sensor - one of those point infared guns...

So the closer I start inching up to continual power near 3kw, I will eat my words and say big is better.
 
Although I've gone a handful of rides with the new rear wheel I am only counting the long ones as true tests.

6am - 8am got home before the Mrs ad kid woke up. Perfect.

I am loving it and just hope it holds up for a lot more rides.

I did a ton of km no magnet so not sure but must be around 20km+ with lots of pedalling on most flats because I must exercise I have decided.

Did the pump track about 5 times and got bored, went around the dam, flew up half way to Mt. Nebo, upped the amps 40 and started hammering the firetrail humps as I used to with the hub motor full wot lifting the front off. Did a bit of down single track, hammered some more firetrails. Had one cut off power not sure why. The Ca just turned off and on it was in the middle of using a ton of power for a long time.... so not sure what went and why it came straight on again.

Any way I am stoked when it all works and amps are addictive. 40 amps is minimum to get through some of the really steep stuff that I went to today. Even with that it is bogging but can pull through...... For these parts that are not so complex I just want more more power. I want let it go higher and higher until it breaks?

Funny thing is coming down some single track totally silent as I don't use power finding this guy super red with his shirt off, started chatting and then pedalled over to the road infront of him said by and pulled WOT straight up a road with a sign that 20" grade. :mrgreen:

Have started enjoying and improving my skills with berms and single track corners with leaning (maybe will hurt if I slide out but...) and am just getting slowly more gelled with the way the bike performs.

Surprisingly I am finding the super steep down hill sections harder on this bike than my old bike. I think because the hub motor was more of cogging break and with the small wheel the geo was way better. There is no trade here though because freewheeling for ages is awesome with this kit and it encourages pedalling a 1000 times more than pedalling with a motor trying to make you stop on flats.

I had no weird sounds today but I am not totally happy with chainring freewheel cranks mech. When I put down lots of force there is some sound or click kind of feeling happening somewhere. It's fine for cruising input but not proper full weight pedalling.

Still all the same this is bloody awesome. Because it is holidays I plan to do this twice a day. Couple of hours at sunrise and a couple at sunset.

I rode with the gopro all the way in my pocket, too much fun to take it out for a shoot. :oops:
 
Sounds like wicked fun John, boring you are not, lol, maybe product testing in your future?

It's torrential rain here, I'm inside setting up the shop for my luna build, I'll get out in a few months,
 
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