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E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Cowardlyduck said:
Emmett said:
On my 2014 Fighter, I decided to replace the RST R1 fork with a DNM USD-8 fork. Target riding is mostly rough trails and natural jumps doing 15 to 40 km/h. Very happy with the new found performance.
Hey that's great Emmett as I have the same fork, same target performance. Now I just need to figure out this headset stuff so I can mount it.

Care to share the details on what you did with your headset? Did you just re-use the old FSA Pig headset, or swap in a new one? I'm probably going to swap in a new one as my FSA is creaking under load.

I used the original FSE headset. Until you mentioned it here, I didn't consider swapping it for something else. The steel thrust washer which transfers the compression load onto the lower bearing easily popped off the RST steering tube and presses onto the DNM tube just by torquing down the bar-mount/gooseneck part. I cut down the DNM steering tube using a miter saw and a suitable piece of timber to align the tube for a square end cut.

Regarding rattle noises, I know of these:

- RST R1 fork felt rattly but it's the stiction on the internal seal around the reb damper shaft.
- I had an electrical connector rattling inside the frame. Just tapping on some metal.
- My 2-speed pedal drive system rattles around a bit.
- The FSE headset rattles a lot if the top cap is not tightly torqued down to compress the steering bearings tightly into their mount cups. Under high loads I wonder if it still occasionally pops/creaks.
 
Jimboyr6 said:
Hyena wrote:
The one thing I have to diagnose and fix so far is a metallic creaking type sound that it makes when you hit the throttle. It sounds like it's down low behind me, possibly the shock or the axle. I thought it could be the seat post sub frame at first given the few documented failures but it looks solid. Anyone else experienced this ?

Hi hyena
When i got my bomber second hand it was doing same thing just tigtened seat mount bolts to frame also my spokes where loose job done


I had a creaking noise but it wound up being the seat was not tight enough.
 
Jimboyr6 said:
Hyena wrote:
The one thing I have to diagnose and fix so far is a metallic creaking type sound that it makes when you hit the throttle. It sounds like it's down low behind me, possibly the shock or the axle. I thought it could be the seat post sub frame at first given the few documented failures but it looks solid. Anyone else experienced this ?

Hi hyena
When i got my bomber second hand it was doing same thing just tigtened seat mount bolts to frame also my spokes where loose job done

Have you cheeked out the rubber bushings in your rear shock eyelets. They tend to dry out over time and make a weird squeaking noise. If you have some silicone spray give theme a blast and see if they quiet down. If it does take them apart and clean them and insert some silicone grease. Or a grease that doesn't damage rubber.
 
Thanks for the suggestions of where to check for the creaking guys.
I dont think it's the suspension as it's silent when you lift the bike and decompress the shock or bounced up and down on it and is silent over bumps with suspension travel too. If you very slowly ease on the throttle it doesn't to do it but if you apply it more rapidly it does. I dont think it's the seat as it does it unloaded too (ie giving a little throttle while standing along side to make the bike lurch forward a few inches) and I had my ear right next to the seat trying to hear where it was coming from. I'll take the covers off and check the ribs as you suggested cowardlyduck.
As for your headset replacement, it sounds like dropping off at a bike shop and paying the money for them to fit it and cut the steerer etc is the best course of action and you'll be back on and riding in no time.
Note that when fitting these DNM forks you need to remove the disc side lower fork guard to fit the hydro hose under the clamp on the cover. It has a tiny little hex head bolt on the clamp but in order to loosen it enough to get the hose under it the little nut on the other side will drop off, and there's no room to get your fingers in there to put it back on without removing the cover.
 
Thanks for the feedback on the Headset guy's. I think I will just get the shop to do it as I want to get this right. I'm changing jobs and have a million other projects at the moment so don't have time to stuff around.

Went for an amazing ride on the weekend to check out where the electrons for my Fighter come from. :D
[youtube]gd_bCMzyG78[/youtube]
This Solar farm only got built this year, so pretty new still. :)

I was riding to explore and for enjoyment more than making the video so the footage is all from the handlebars, but the scenery was amazing enough to make a video from. :)

Cheers
 
Well, I got my bike back together. It looks as if my parts will not arrive from Australia, in time for my trip. Since I don't have a keyed switch on the bike, I will just lock it up at night or pull the cobbled up toogle switch out of it when parked. I could also just unplug it. Either way, I will be taking the Fighter to the Overland Expo East, in Asheville, NC. I have enrolled in a Basic Motorcycle Skills class. Bet it's the only eBike there! lol The promoters were excited to hear that I really have one and that I am bringing it. These bikes are not very well know here in the States yet. I have not met anyone that knew what it was yet.

Once I get back, I'll be starting a rebuild/upgrading project on the Fighter. Not sure what to call it yet, maybe the Hyper-Fighter or something like that. Stay tuned. I'll be doing some cool mods to my Fighter this Winter. It may even get a color change, some lightweight armor plating/frame protection/stiffening, some safety features, upgraded lighting, and a better suspension. It will most definitely get a bigger motor, a new controller, and probably a bigger battery pack. A new Schlumpf 2.5:1 High-Speed Drive, and motorcycle wheels and tires are in the works as well. If you have any suggestions please PM them to me. I want this bike to be over-the-top cool. If you could do anything to a Fighter... what would you do? What forks are the best? Which rear shock should I buy. Which motor is the best compromise for climbing and speed? I'd like short bursts of 55 to 60mph. How many batteries can I stuff into it? I'd like at least a 60 to 70 mile range. Many people have told me that if they had to do it over, they would have bought a Fighter and upgraded it. I need to hear from those people. I have already talked with several people. They have all given me great advice.

I'll be explaining my thought process on upgrading this bike instead of buying a Bomber or something else in the upcoming thread.

Many thanks to everyone here! In one way or another everyone here has influenced my decision to keep my Fighter. Every spare minute that I have had, has been dedicated to this site. I really want to add, that the videos are awesome. Keep posting the vids. Very cool!

SamM
 
Hey all,
I tried doing a search on this but came up short. Have any of you experienced the shock hitting the seat frame on your bomber? Not the seat post but the actual seat frame. The clicker and part of the shock body show signs of contact with the frame. When riding the Heim joints make the shock rotate to one side or the other which brings the shock body and adjuster too close to the seat triangle and causes it to hit. Any ideas?
 
How's this grab you? I got the idea from watching videos that Alex posted. As easy as this looks it took me all day to install it. I'm going to do the rear tomorrow.



 
1abv said:
Hey all,
I tried doing a search on this but came up short. Have any of you experienced the shock hitting the seat frame on your bomber? Not the seat post but the actual seat frame. The clicker and part of the shock body show signs of contact with the frame. When riding the Heim joints make the shock rotate to one side or the other which brings the shock body and adjuster too close to the seat triangle and causes it to hit. Any ideas?

I picture might help.
 
Allex said:
You must be heavy? Tried to adjust the spring?
Well there goes my self image. Looks like I'm back to my diet of bear claws and deep fried turkey loaf. :(
Heavy?.. Hell yea I'm heavy from the waist down to mid thigh!!! Booosh! Actually I weigh 165 but thanks for the kind and encouraging words
 
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pics of shock hitting the frame.. I checked preload and the spring has preload when there is no weight on it. I notice that the shock rotates to the left and the right of centerline of the bike. must be I'm just bigboned.. any thoughts?
 
1abv said:
Allex said:
You must be heavy? Tried to adjust the spring?
Well there goes my self image. Looks like I'm back to my diet of bear claws and deep fried turkey loaf. :(
Heavy?.. Hell yea I'm heavy from the waist down to mid thigh!!! Booosh! Actually I weigh 165 but thanks for the kind and encouraging words

Hehe the Coat of Arms diet. Australians are not the only ones that devour their supporting animals.

Is your shock bolt tight?

 
Theodore Voltaire said:
1abv, replace you shock bushings. They're a normal maintenance item.

Maybe the bolt too. It looks bent but it could be an optical anomaly in the pic or maybe my eyesight isn't too good 8)
 
I will check the bolt and bushings. Good call. Does anyone know if the bushings are a common size? I'm in California and it would take quite a while to get them through stealth.

Thx in advance for all the help
 
Can't find the sizes but you have the originals & McMaster has it all.

You could always ask Stealth. They can advise on sizes.
 
There are 2 O-rings that seal the bush. Try replacing them top and bottom. They will prevent the shock rotating side to side as shown in your photos.

:)
 
1abv:
Looks like you have the tension on its lowest. If I have it on mine and lift the bike by the seat, the shock can easily turn from left to right along with the spring which will be totally loose.
But when I increase the preload by just one inch the shock would not move in those directions

TV, looking slick, but would be even better if they were wider. Are you preparing for the cold and moist? :)
 
Allex said:
TV, looking slick, but would be even better if they were wider. Are you preparing for the cold and moist? :)

Even though these fenders are about 1/2" narrower than the tires, they'll still function reasonably well. In this case function is taking a back seat to styling though.

I'm almost finished with this little project, and I'm liking what I'm seeing a lot. I'll have pictures later today for everyone's perusal
 
My new fenders. They're Planet Bike. They probably only weigh about 2 oz all together. The front fender is held to the fork with a 5m bolt. I drilled and tapped the fork crossover, The front fender stay is held to the forks with one of those wire ties that has a hole in the end. A 5m bolt holds the stay to the wire tie.

The rear fender is held in the front to the shock mound with a wire tie. I added an extra stay, so there's one at about 12 o'clock, and one 10 o'clock. Both stays connect together to the chain adjuster. The stays are adjustable for height, and centering of the fender over the tire. Nothing is difficult to remove.

 
Allex said:
1abv:
Looks like you have the tension on its lowest. If I have it on mine and lift the bike by the seat, the shock can easily turn from left to right along with the spring which will be totally loose.
But when I increase the preload by just one inch the shock would not move in those directions

TV, looking slick, but would be even better if they were wider. Are you preparing for the cold and moist? :)

My spring has slight preload on it prob about 3\16 inch. Last night I tighten it down more and it didn't seem to turn as much. Checked the bolt and bushings they are all good. I'm going to get a custom spring made. This one is way too heavy prob great for someone 185 or so. Thx everyone for the help. On another note been doing some night offroading with the bomber and a lumina 750. That light rocks. Think I'll get a 500 for my head as well.
 
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