Fitting Front Hub Motors to Quick Release Forks.

[Affliction]

Here's what happens to aluminum dropouts...

imagine this happening at 40 mph!
everyone scurries off to check their nuts now....

 

[mwkeefer]

Sweet - can still see the dropout flanges in the wheel bolts!
Glad u were ok.

Questions:
1.) I didn't note a torque arm or evidence of one - did you have one? *(bet you do now)
2.) I also don't see the inner torque washer in your pics... to go between where the axle flats begin and the inner side of the droupout flanges - did you have these installed?

-Mike

 

[Affliction]

Sweet - can still see the dropout flanges in the wheel bolts!
Glad u were ok.

Questions:
1.) I didn't note a torque arm or evidence of one - did you have one? *(bet you do now)
2.) I also don't see the inner torque washer in your pics... to go between where the axle flats begin and the inner side of the droupout flanges - did you have these installed?

-Mike

not my pic, stole it while browsing the sphere
See what can happen tho? I had something similar happen on steel forks but only one side did this.
I have experience with this phenomenon so I'm quite a bit adamant on this subject of a proper fit!

 

[Affliction]

Took this from the other fork thread I posted on.......
Those are awesome forks!

see the steel cup? SAE 5/16" flat washer fits perfectly and can be brazed in to thicken the dropout.
30 seconds of dremmel work finishes the job. I do this to all my forks of similar design.

 

[The Mighty Volt]

What exactly do you guys mean by brazing? Like welding?

 

[Affliction]

What exactly do you guys mean by brazing? Like welding?

It's a form of welding but more like soldering. It's how bike frames are assembled. You use bronze filler rod and use just enough heat to melt the filler into place without melting the steel. This way you don't deform the dropout any while bonding the washer into the cup.
Don't you know how to use google Mighty Volt?

 

[lifepo4ever]

its the reason why I change my front hub motor for a rear one its more secure

 

[Affliction]

its the reason why I change my front hub motor for a rear one its more secure

Ya but I use dual hub!

 

[qtipslea]

Question: How do you attach the Special C Spacer when the bolt is _inside_ (between the fork and the hub) instead of outside like the picture?

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?id=29908

The MXUS geared motor I got from Cell_Man has this and I can't seems to fit the Special C Spacer I bought from ebikes.ca inside due to no space.

 

[neptronix]

OK, you asked for a comment....

Doesn't matter which way you put those c-washers in, they will act as ghetto low-power torque plates on either side of the axle.

You may have to disconnect the hall sensor pins on the motor power cable to flip that stuff around. Make sure you match up the colors on the other side when you put the pins back into the connector to the controller, hehe..

BTW i hope that pic is not of an aluminum suspension fork. Looks like it has a crack in it plus bad welding from the factory. I hope you're installing the weak geared motor and not the DD hub onto that fork. That thing does look scary..

 

[qtipslea]

OK, you asked for a comment....

Doesn't matter which way you put those c-washers in, they will act as ghetto low-power torque plates on either side of the axle.

You may have to disconnect the hall sensor pins on the motor power cable to flip that stuff around. Make sure you match up the colors on the other side when you put the pins back into the connector to the controller, hehe..

BTW i hope that pic is not of an aluminum suspension fork. Looks like it has a crack in it plus bad welding from the factory. I hope you're installing the weak geared motor and not the DD hub onto that fork. That thing does look scary..

Thanks for the reply!

That picture isn't mine, it was from the original first post. I used it to show that the MXUS doesn't have the C-washer outside but rather inside (so opposite of picture).

My fork is definitely chromo-steel.

Did you flip the C-washer when you had the MXUS? I was thinking of flipping it but then I saw a huge open space between the fork and the motor as a result and got scared. :lol:

350W at 39V doesn't seems like a lot of power though for me to worry about it. You guys seems to be running higher end motor and battery in comparison.

 

[neptronix]

Oh thank heavens. :lol:

You can flip the washer around if you have space between the axle and fork edges, yes.
You don't want that

 

[qtipslea]

Oh thank heavens. :lol:

You can flip the washer around if you have space between the axle and fork edges, yes.
You don't want that

So are you saying I shouldn't flip the C-Washer around in order to install the Special C Spacer (due to my fork being quick release)? I'm a bit confuse at the "You don't want that" comment.

 

[amigafan2003]

My front hub is fitted to a carbon fork - living life on the edge baby, one face plant at a time!

 

[dogman dan]

I'm a bit confused at this point what exactly was being discussed. The pic was mine, showing how a torque washer spans the cup of a fork for qr. That's a steel fork, wich has a drain hole in the bottom because they come with crap seals on top.

On my installation, I have an inner washer that is needed because the axle shoulders on 9c motors are so shallow. Other motors may have a better shoulder, and not require the inner washer at all. The C washer is intended to fill the void on the outside of the fork, where the cup for the QR skewer fits into the cup normaly. The torque washers that come with kits are pretty much useless, except as spacers when you have a need for it. So on the outside of the fork, you should have C washer, torque arm, regular washer if you have enough threads left, and the nut. If the axle is a bit short, omit the outer washer and torque the nut directly to the torque arm.

 

[qtipslea]

Basically, my C-washer is on the inside not the outside like your picture.

I will take a picture on Tuesday or perhaps Monday to show you what I mean.

 

[dogman dan]

Perhaps we are talking about different things. There are tabbed washers called torque washers. They can be used on the inside, if you need a spacer. There are also spacer washers that go inside for centering the rim on rear hubs.
this links to a spacer washer.
http://www.ebikes.ca/store/photos/SpaceWasher14.jpg There are also thin spacer washers that come with the kit on some 9 c motors, because the axle shoulder is not very big. The axle shoulder in this case, could cut into an alloy fork, so the thin spacer washer helps prevent that. The thin washers are also intended for inside.

A C washer is actually shaped like a C, so the dropout remains open on the bottom. the C shape helps with Crystalyte, and other motor types that exit the wire through the dropout gap. The photo linked to is from an earlier thread I wrote, before Ebikes-ca began to sell thier C washer. http://www.ebikes.ca/store/photos/SpaceCWasher.jpg

So when you say C washer, I'm thinking of that one, and it is properly used on the outside of the fork, to fill the gap in the qr cup, that is spanned by the oversize nuts and washers that come with hubmotors.