For lacing purposes, would this rim be acceptable?

[999zip999]

Yeah just get a divider and find out where the middle is and set your divider thing it's really easy
You can also use a pair of chopsticks put a rubber band on the end and stick a little bit of paper in between to you find the right distance.

 

[amberwolf]

Oh yes grasshopper just move it in the middle between the original spoke holes. EZ
Oh you can also drill the holes larger. Lol

Got it. Haven't heard of anyone doing that.

An example:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=67833&p=1365487&hilit=drill%2A+mxus#p1362771

Both the MXUS3k hubmotors I did this to, for the SB Cruiser's rear wheels, have held up with 13/14g butted sapim spokes from grin (I think one was laced with straight 13g or maybe 14g, cant' remember), radially laced, despite potholes that have severely damaged the rightside rim (which did require retensioning some of the spokes around the damaged area, but which have held up since then despite the heavy trike and heavy cargo loads (hundreds of pounds) I sometimes carry). The spokes held up even when the axle was broken by a beta-test-controller that decided to suddenly reverse torque while riding at speed...had to reweld the axle end on, and even moved the entire rim and spokes over to a different motor afterward and they're still good).

EDIT: I forgot, I did have some spokes get broken, but AFAICR it was because something (stick the dogs had chewed on?) got into the wheel and jammed it:

 

[Eastwood]

Sorry for not revisiting this thread long enough to be able to reply. It's been a hellatious few weeks.

Thanks very much for the contact info for the spoke seller. I have two rims enroute and am really looking forward to getting confirmation of the ERD. Once that's nailed down I'll order the spokes and nipples and get to work building. I have done far too much walking lately. :lol:

As for why a 16", this is for my Giant Revive which came equipped with 20" wheels stock. That said my Raptor has a 16 on the rear and a 17 on the front and I have no complaints. The wheels are super strong and being a hub motor the smaller diameter is beneficial.

If it were a powerful mid drive and I were building from scratch I'd definitely consider larger, but again, no complaints.

So I received the motor last night and just finished building and truing the wheel. So as I mentioned had the ERD measured at 383mm, I would add 2mm to 4mm. So it’s safe to say the ERD is 385mm to 387mm max :thumb:

I’ll use these spokes which are about 2 mm too short and if I have any nipples breaking from there not being sufficient overlap I’ll just order slightly longer spokes, they’re only 50 bucks with nipples :thumb: although they should work out just fine, and them being cheaper spokes they could stretch which would give me some allowance 8)
Ordered 90mm so 92mm would have been perfect for the QS205v3 with pro wheel 16” 1.60.

 

[Eastwood]

The good thing with the thicker spokes is they don’t loosen or stretch so you don’t need to make adjustments.

You got that wrong. Thick spokes chronically loosen because they don't stretch enough. If you use a moto rim, it can tolerate the very high tension required to keep spokes tight... but you're not using a moto hub. Flange tear-out is a thing to be aware of.

Almost all the problems folks have with could have been avoided if Chinese manufacturers hadn't pandered to idiots by drilling hub motors for spokes too thick for the application.

Well I was speaking in the context of off-road use with heavy hub motors with moto rims, not bicycle rims. Thinner bicycle spokes are definitely better for bicycle rims.

For the QS205 or even bigger like the QS273 should be using Moto spokes. I’m all for bicycle spokes on 1500 W hub motors or less. Well even with my Mxus 3K The bicycle spokes worked great. So yeah I’m all for the thinner spokes as you actually pointed me in this direction when I originally built that wheel.

I just think the QS205 or heavier need Moto spokes. I mean the QS205 weighs about the same as a downhill mountain bike, the entire bike :lol:
bicycle spokes are great for regular heavy Ebike builds but not when your crossing over to motorcycle weight.

 

[HK12K]

Sorry for not revisiting this thread long enough to be able to reply. It's been a hellatious few weeks.

Thanks very much for the contact info for the spoke seller. I have two rims enroute and am really looking forward to getting confirmation of the ERD. Once that's nailed down I'll order the spokes and nipples and get to work building. I have done far too much walking lately. :lol:

As for why a 16", this is for my Giant Revive which came equipped with 20" wheels stock. That said my Raptor has a 16 on the rear and a 17 on the front and I have no complaints. The wheels are super strong and being a hub motor the smaller diameter is beneficial.

If it were a powerful mid drive and I were building from scratch I'd definitely consider larger, but again, no complaints.

So I received the motor last night and just finished building and truing the wheel. So as I mentioned had the ERD measured at 383mm, I would add 2mm to 4mm. So it’s safe to say the ERD is 385mm to 387mm max :thumb:

I’ll use these spokes which are about 2 mm too short and if I have any nipples breaking from there not being sufficient overlap I’ll just order slightly longer spokes, they’re only 50 bucks with nipples :thumb: although they should work out just fine, and them being cheaper spokes they could stretch which would give me some allowance 8)
Ordered 90mm so 92mm would have been perfect for the QS205v3 with pro wheel 16” 1.60.

Sweet, thank you so much!

I got a delivery today but apparently the seller neglected to notice that I ordered two rims and only shipped one. Minor inconvenience but it won't stop me from getting this rear wheel sorted at least. Black was out of stock everywhere but damn the gold looks good.

I'll order the spokes and nipples for the rear asap and get to it.

Anybody have a spoke wrench preference or associated tools they would recommend that I should be aware of? Might as well set myself up for success, and who better to ask?

 

[Eastwood]

Sweet, thank you so much!

I got a delivery today but apparently the seller neglected to notice that I ordered two rims and only shipped one. Minor inconvenience but it won't stop me from getting this rear wheel sorted at least. Black was out of stock everywhere but damn the gold looks good.

I'll order the spokes and nipples for the rear asap and get to it.

Anybody have a spoke wrench preference or associated tools they would recommend that I should be aware of? Might as well set myself up for success, and who better to ask?

Yeah those gold rims are a beauty :thumb:
What hub motor are you using with the pro wheel 16” ?
For the spoke wrench I didn’t have the right size so I just used my multi spoke wrench tool, it sucks :lol:
The spoke tool for those nipples is #10
The nipple measures at 4.7 mm

 

[calab]

Yeah those spoke tools suck big time. Best to step up and buy a set of Park Tool spoke wrenches, or the cheap 3-way wrenches that are colored differently.

 

[HK12K]

Ordered a cheapo. We shall see.

Thanks again!!! :thumb:

 

[DogDipstick]

I use a castle nut. Find one and make it custom fit, perfect to the spoke I have. File the lands of the castle nut a little.. and it makes for a good spoke wrench. I am sure alot of us have done that.

Speaking of which, I am gonna do it. Just lace my 205 to a 12g spoke in the 19". I have them, yeah seems a little counterintuitive, but I will see. My 205 V1 took the 12g right filling up the hub hole: However, yes my V3 has larger spoke holes from the manuf.

Damn heavy motor. Over 2x the weight of my bike frame, alone. My bike will never be an offroad bike, now. Strictly on road. I hope they work for me, I dont have the cash to buy new 10g spokes, ATM, and I need my bike.

 

[Eastwood]

Speaking of which, I am gonna do it. Just lace my 205 to a 12g spoke in the 19". I have them, yeah seems a little counterintuitive, but I will see. My 205 V1 took the 12g right filling up the hub hole: However, yes my V3 has larger spoke holes from the manuf.

Damn heavy motor. Over 2x the weight of my bike frame, alone. My bike will never be an offroad bike, now. Strictly on road. I hope they work for me, I dont have the cash to buy new 10g spokes, ATM, and I need my bike.

Yeah go for it with the 12g :thumb:
You could consider using washers on the Spoke head because eventually they will start pulling through.
I only broke one 12 gauge spoke while riding but that was with hard Enduro and also because the spokes we’re loose and whatever spoke was bearing the most weight is the one that gave out. So yeah for Street use you should be OK with the 12 G but you’ll still have to tighten every so often. Probably not too often if you’re not doing any heavy off-road.

So what type of frame for the qs205 a bicycle frame?
I’m guessing you went with the 3T winding?
The extra weight from the V3 will be worth it with the added torque :thumb:
I couldn’t imagine running a QS273, it’s so freaking heavy! I mean the 205 is already heavy enough at 30 solid pounds lol

Oh and I would’ve sold you my old QS205 that’s in a 19 inch Excel rim. I don’t know if you seen the other thread but I just got done varnishing it so now it’s waterproof. I bought that motor under the impression it was a 6T but come to find out it’s actually a 5.5T
I can definitely feel the torque difference between the 5.5 compared to the 6T but also the wheel diameter is smaller as well. Actually I just got done doing my second test ride but now I have to open up the motor so I can varnish this one. Wanted to test it first to make sure it worked before I did the varnishing.

 

[DogDipstick]

Yeah go for it with the 12g :thumb:
You could consider using washers on the Spoke head because eventually they will start pulling through.

So what type of frame for the qs205 a bicycle frame?

It is done. I spent the morning doing it, I had hoped the spokes worked... (that I had) and they did. I even think I custom trimmed all the spokes when I first installed the hub V1 cause I had an offset for the freewheel.... but I used the same ones and they seem to be working good. Yeah I even had enough washers here: But thought about using them and did not. Street only. I have alot of reinforcing to do: and pinching dropouts that I am half way through, making, but the motor is hanging.

I needed to make my frame from 135mm to 150 mm and thats done. Now just reinforcement. I made thick stainless dropouts, milled, gonna be some steel there ( like 20mm of solid steel pinching the axle on both sides). Dropped the axle back and down to increase the rake a lil ( from 19* to 23*) and raised the rear end 3/4".

Its a 4T in a 19 x1.4" Sur Ron rim, ( in black also, just like the Excell rim of yours but not as nice.). I have a set of grey 18" rims here but no spokes. I will do theat if I dont like the Tq, and want a smaller wheel some day (options). It is a 4T. I am going to open it and see to the internals, perhaps new bearings in this one, and to coat maybe with something. We will see. Its going slow and i need my bike. I have had the motor sitting in the box for like almost two years by now, waiting for the other one ( my V1) to break or fry ( that did did, both. Lol. )

Im working onit. I'll show ya pic or my build thead when I post pics.

It is an Ironhorse Hollowpoiint. It was a good XC bike of its day: relatively high end. Came with fancy parts. I bought it broken, and welded it. It has a fancy suspension system ( DW link) ( on a bunch of very expensive bikes nowadays, ) . It has double butted constructions, gusseted, and is 7005 aluminum, strong. I got Rockshock Domain in the front with new fluid, a compression and rebound shim damper, and a hard spring. I am trying to fit a longer stronger Risse shock to the rear.

Its great fun. Last motor lasted 12K miles.