Help with 9c 8x8 rear motor problem.....

[methods]

Disconnect the hall connector
Keep one wire off of the board
Measure the resistance between the wires

IF it is high resistance you have bad connection (open circuit)
If it is a low resistance you have a short

My guess?
I am betting one of the pins in your hall connector backed out

Dont go tearing it all part yet


-methods

 

[methods]

P.S> I know that early on he measured a short... but we always check for the easy things before doing the hard things even if we already eliminated this failure.

The back of the connector is a highly suspect spot

-methods

 

[itchynackers]

I'll check it out this afternoon, but wouldn't a broken hall leg still let the motor run, albeit badly? I had a broken leg on my other bike, and the bike spit and sputtered and made funny noises. This motor is totally dead. No nothing, just dead.

 

[friedwires]

yes.
The only thing the board is doing for you is managing the noise a little, protecting the halls a bit, and providing compatibility with a wider range of controllers. It also makes for a clean assembly that can be pre-produced on a jig and slid into place...

Besides... if we pitch the board now what will we learn


-methods

LOL. im all for learning, but with my lack of patience i would have already yanked it all out of there and replaced everything from the connector back it sure looks like its a bad hall wire, maybe they were damaged when the phase wires were upgraded.

 

[methods]

LOL. im all for learning, but with my lack of patience i would have already yanked it all out of there and replaced everything from the connector back it sure looks like its a bad hall wire, maybe they were damaged when the phase wires were upgraded.

WHAT?
Phase wires were upgraded... :?

Sheeeeeiiittt. I missed that. Thats the first place I would have looked.

-methods

 

[methods]

I'll check it out this afternoon, but wouldn't a broken hall leg still let the motor run, albeit badly? I had a broken leg on my other bike, and the bike spit and sputtered and made funny noises. This motor is totally dead. No nothing, just dead.

Not necessarily. The controller will only turn on if it sees something close to a valid hall combo. Some failures will result in the appearance of a valid combo when the wheel is clocked to certain positions resulting in the motor making 6 kinds of racket. Other failures will result in a combo that is impossible and the controller wont even try.

-methods

 

[itchynackers]

Meth,
I'm fairly certain at this point that the red wire is shorting somewhere in/near the axle. I yanked everything out, but couldn't get fresh wires back in (even though I've done this with 2 motors now). So I ordered some 30awg teflon. I'm on hold until that gets here. I'm also debating whether to try 10awg in there. I have both 10 and 12. Ideally, I'd like to get 2 more wires in there for a thermal sensor. I tried before but couldn't do it. I'd been running the motor (what I believed was) fairly hard, but like I mentioned, the motor looked brand new inside. So I guess my method of putting my hand on the motor was overly conservative. I have it programmed for 103V, 65a continuous, but it only settled in at 46mph (whatever current that amounts to). I never pushed it very long though. Maybe 1/2 mile at the most. I'm debating whether to drill the covers now, since they are off.

Also, I just got done drilling the axle from 7.3mm ID to 5/16" ID. Not sure if that will accomodate the 10awg wires and 7 30awg wires. I guess worst case, I should be able to get the 12awg and 7 30awg's in there.

So anyway, I'm on hold for just a bit. Thank you for the help so far. I'll post up when I have more progress...

Adam

 

[itchynackers]

Update:
Worked for 4 hours tonight running new wires. Drilled the axle with a 5/16" bit. Stripped 10awg teflon wire and put heat shrink on. Ran three 10awg wires and seven 30awg teflon wires down the axle, and they fit fairly easily! Drilling helps immensely. Hopefully the axle won't twist. Soldered everything up, put the wheel back on the bike, said a little prayer, and it ran on the first attempt, woooot!

Methods, it did end up being the red 5v hall wire. I couldn't see where the problem was on the wire, but it wasn't sending voltage through the axle. It must have been something I did running the previous 12awg phase wires. Although I got 1000 miles out of it first. The black stuff on the circuit board must have just been dust. I could've sworn that it looked fried, but the stuff just brushed off. So it wasn't a motor problem at all. :?

Thanks everyone for helping solve this.

Adam

 

[methods]

Great!
One more problem solved in the archives for the next guy. :wink:
Good job.

-methods

 

[friedwires]

way to go Itchy

 

[itchynackers]

Thanks,
Did a 30 mile blast yesterday at 52wh/mile. Motor warm, but not melting! 85 amps peak, woot!