Hi power inverter for Nissan leaf motor. Dyno's 302.3hp p15
- Thread starter Arlo1
- Start date
So... After having some fun and what not I decided to hook up the double pulse tester to the inverter again because the NEW 800a IGBTs were tripping desat easier then the old 600a igbts.
With some quick Tests I was able to see they had much more voltage drop then rated even more then the 600a parts. I was able to prove they are counterfeit. Now I have some more on order as I don't have a full set of 6 800a IGBTs. I put it together for a couple weeks with 4 800a parts and 2 600a parts as there is new code I want to test and see if I can find any more power at high speed.
[youtube]W-FvytkAC84[/youtube]
With some quick Tests I was able to see they had much more voltage drop then rated even more then the 600a parts. I was able to prove they are counterfeit. Now I have some more on order as I don't have a full set of 6 800a IGBTs. I put it together for a couple weeks with 4 800a parts and 2 600a parts as there is new code I want to test and see if I can find any more power at high speed.
[youtube]W-FvytkAC84[/youtube]
As said in the video. Fictiron which Is an eBay seller selling lots of these. And they work so well most would never no they are counterfeit. Only when you try to run big power does it show up.HighHopes said:
Yes double pusle testing is the 2 most important thing you taught me.
Did 93 km road trip on the highway today.
Math works out to 136 wh/km or 218 wh/mi So 200km/charge is reasonable.
I didn't air the tires up or anything I just drove a little easy at about 5-10km over the limit. Most speeds were 94-102km/h with a few sections around 80km/h and a few traffic lights (using only regen).
Math works out to 136 wh/km or 218 wh/mi So 200km/charge is reasonable.
I didn't air the tires up or anything I just drove a little easy at about 5-10km over the limit. Most speeds were 94-102km/h with a few sections around 80km/h and a few traffic lights (using only regen).
jonescg
100 MW
Arlo1 said:
Awesome
So at 60 km/h you're probably rolling around at 110 Wh/km? You did well to shoehorn all those packs in 
Lebowski
10 MW
Arlo1 said:
you're pretty close to what is claimed for the Nissan Leaf on wikipedia (177 wh/km)... I guess an 'official' leaf is heavier than your car ?
Does it fit with your power reading on the dash ? I mean 100km/h with 136wh/km should show 13.6kW on the power display ? (I remember it showing 30kW or so)
It varies fast and I have not added the datalogging to the gauge display to save WH used and WH/KM and the odometer etc.Lebowski said:
But it reads 30kw when climbing a hill and on flat seemed to be close to 15-16kw. All slowing was with Regen.
Also the low amperage is hard to calibrate on the gauges. I used the math based on the battery capacity.
I have about 66ah of battery (at 5c discharge) and I started with a resting voltage of 465.5v and ended with 415.5v
Either way It is a decent number and I know 200km/charge is possible. I even did a quick full throttle blast at 100km/h to show a VOLT how fast I was.
He then tried to show me LMFAO....
izeman
1 GW
LOLArlo1 said:
wish i ever could have peak amps as high as your cruising amps 8)
I still have some tweaking to to with the inductance values to get the current smoother as in this video it seems I might have it a bit high.
Test from 0- past 100mph (160k) to get a rough Idea how it should be on the track.
2 things 1 I am turning the regen knob to limit the torque on the tires. I have run as low as 5 psi and on a non prepped surface it still spins. This is at 10 psi it scares me they make weird sounds.
2 I have been playing with an inductance value to get the power efficiently to the wheels this is likely a little to high as you can see it drop from 680 amps to below 400 for a split second and you can feel that in the seat.
I have also found repeat runs helps because the battery and tires warm up but the controller and motor warm up and I get to a heat soak point where desat trips easy and I have been adding earlier thermal cut backs to help with that.
Also this is still with 600a IGBTs I can easily put in the 800a IGBTs it I can ever find some for a reasonable price and make more torque and HP but I don't need any more torque as it Is on slicks with multiple burnouts I can roast the tires at any point below 70km/h!
On a non prepped surface I am below 9 sec 0-100 mph!
-Arlin
[youtube]q4_RWKd8SNI[/youtube]
Test from 0- past 100mph (160k) to get a rough Idea how it should be on the track.
2 things 1 I am turning the regen knob to limit the torque on the tires. I have run as low as 5 psi and on a non prepped surface it still spins. This is at 10 psi it scares me they make weird sounds.
2 I have been playing with an inductance value to get the power efficiently to the wheels this is likely a little to high as you can see it drop from 680 amps to below 400 for a split second and you can feel that in the seat.
I have also found repeat runs helps because the battery and tires warm up but the controller and motor warm up and I get to a heat soak point where desat trips easy and I have been adding earlier thermal cut backs to help with that.
Also this is still with 600a IGBTs I can easily put in the 800a IGBTs it I can ever find some for a reasonable price and make more torque and HP but I don't need any more torque as it Is on slicks with multiple burnouts I can roast the tires at any point below 70km/h!
On a non prepped surface I am below 9 sec 0-100 mph!
-Arlin
[youtube]q4_RWKd8SNI[/youtube]
Ohbse
10 kW
Nicely done!
What tires are you running now? 5psi sounds too low for optimum. If they're of radial type construction you probably want to be in the 12-16psi range hot with CRX like weight distribution, if they're proper drag slicks then potentially lower than that, but 5psi seems a little extreme.
Is there any out of the box way of doing some kind of 2d torque speed table?
What tires are you running now? 5psi sounds too low for optimum. If they're of radial type construction you probably want to be in the 12-16psi range hot with CRX like weight distribution, if they're proper drag slicks then potentially lower than that, but 5psi seems a little extreme.
Is there any out of the box way of doing some kind of 2d torque speed table?
Ohbse said:
http://www.mandhtires.com/M-H-Racemaster-Street-and-Strip-Drag-Slicks/P205-60-13#.WVFCv-vytaQ
Ohbse said:
Why would you want that? Torque is a twisting force... It takes X amount of torque to make the tire slip at 0 km/h and the same amount of torque at 100km/h will still make it slip.
Instead I have a setting Lebowski added to the code that limits acceleration. So if the wheels start to spin up faster then X acceleration/second then it reduces torque. I can fine tune that but its set aggressively for the track.
kiwiev
100 kW
Mate you are a true pioneer my friend great work
Cheers Kiwi
Cheers Kiwi
I made it to the Dyno today....
Most torque I made was 295.9 ft-lbs at the motor (2349ft-lbs wheels) And the most HP today was 302.3hp at the wheels. The measurements are at the wheels but they enter the gear ratio in to get the RPM. Almost maxed out the dyno its rated for 2500 ft-lbs
My Brother failed me at getting the DYNO numbers in the video... But I took picks of the screens I have 1 printout of 1 run. When they went to print the rest of the runs the computer crashed and my runs keep crashing the computer lmfao. I got his email and sent him mine he will send me the files later.
But It was a good day and a great first trip to the dyno. I played with some settings trying to make more power but turning up the phase amps tripped desat it was hot out and the controller was getting warm. I have it liquid cooled with a fan but it needs to stay below ambiant to make good power.
Did 4 runs all just over 300hp!!! This has been such a long hard effort but I am just getting started... This is still with the 600a IGBTs.... Once I add the 800a igbts back in and spend the time it will be able to make 400hp+ with the right battery...
[youtube]S6OInkLWAhk[/youtube]
Most torque I made was 295.9 ft-lbs at the motor (2349ft-lbs wheels) And the most HP today was 302.3hp at the wheels. The measurements are at the wheels but they enter the gear ratio in to get the RPM. Almost maxed out the dyno its rated for 2500 ft-lbs
My Brother failed me at getting the DYNO numbers in the video...
But I took picks of the screens I have 1 printout of 1 run. When they went to print the rest of the runs the computer crashed and my runs keep crashing the computer lmfao. I got his email and sent him mine he will send me the files later.But It was a good day and a great first trip to the dyno. I played with some settings trying to make more power but turning up the phase amps tripped desat it was hot out and the controller was getting warm. I have it liquid cooled with a fan but it needs to stay below ambiant to make good power.
Did 4 runs all just over 300hp!!! This has been such a long hard effort but I am just getting started... This is still with the 600a IGBTs....
Once I add the 800a igbts back in and spend the time it will be able to make 400hp+ with the right battery... [youtube]S6OInkLWAhk[/youtube]
Could you stick a beer cooler full of ice in series with the cooling system?
Looks like you need to find a bigger dyno
Looks like you need to find a bigger dyno
Working on both of those things.fechter said:Could you stick a beer cooler full of ice in series with the cooling system?
Looks like you need to find a bigger dyno
This guy thought he would have 700hp.....
[youtube]5NUcmimBvOk[/youtube]
liveforphysics
100 TW
I had a few CRXs and a few civic hatches.
With just a 260whp K24a2 in them with 200ft-lbs they feel wild to keep on the track.
Im so excited to drive your CRX!!! I may make a special ride up soon on my DSR and visit again my friend.
With just a 260whp K24a2 in them with 200ft-lbs they feel wild to keep on the track.
Im so excited to drive your CRX!!! I may make a special ride up soon on my DSR and visit again my friend.