Hobbit's Rans Fusion

[Trackman417]

Now that's true craftsmanship right there!I wish I had as much room as you. My garage has so little room, my brother got deterred from making a bike due to no more room after mine
By the way how amp hungry is the 4080? Do you have any efficiency results as to how much amps it eats and at what speed?

 

[megacycle]

Good to see your making progress in more ways than one.
Like the pan brake, weird name though for a folding machine thingamy.

I was spot welding my sheet steel overlaps using a 20Ah pouch,copper bus and old switch contacts could'nt believe it when it worked, thought it would blow a hole.

I'm only game to ride at night at moment, no rear cluster and brake, piss poor front now after taming the beast when she's chomping on the bit. Of Friday so collect some more bits tomorrow and hopefully road worthy for a long burn, fast charger on board see how fast and how far.

Any thoughts on the regen.

Aye working in the fridge, ice on the screen this morn down ere.
The self regulating charger leads were working well warming my hands, till they went into melt down tonight after 90A-50A abuse on about 1m of 4mm2, need to crank the charger down little now or cut some more 4mm, V105deg :lol:
Bloodly freezing after the ride tonight full moon clear skies and gunning it down the back roads.
Wind sheer nearly lost my ears to frostbite, had to get the antifreeze out scull scull.

 

[Hobbit]

Now that's true craftsmanship right there!I wish I had as much room as you. My garage has so little room, my brother got deterred from making a bike due to no more room after mine
By the way how amp hungry is the 4080? Do you have any efficiency results as to how much amps it eats and at what speed?

Hee hee, got YOU fooled. Nah, the box is a bit "melanie griffiths", from afar with a bit of vasoline on the lens it's almost sexy but up close it's more like....

but you know i haven't finished it yet and "not bad for a first timer" has pretty much become my mantra for this build.

as for "power hungry" at 55 amps and 70 volts the motor does about 66kph. I think Hyena has his up to low 70's though. There's been some private discussion that this motor my in fact possibly have a few different winds floating around. I've taken it up a 2 km long hill that rises about 150-200 metres from start to finish at full throttle and the side cover feels about 15 degrees warmer than ambient using a "palm meter" :wink:

On my commute 44km round trip is seeing around 18 - 20 wh per km or just shy of 900 wh total with an average speed of about 35 kph. I've peddling less and less and throttling faster and faster to try and find out my batteries limits and I'm running from 4.16 volts down to 3.78 volts. so by these averages I'd put around 57 k's under my belt taking it down to 3.6 V (or my DOD comfort zone) with 18s3p of 8000mah zippy 30A lipo. 9 bricks of the shizzle. I think I'll go with nanotech for build 2 just because.

Hey Megacycle, did you mean you "blew the halls" or sliced through the hall wires? lipo spot welder is simultaneously totally awesome and ice cold shivers scary. You're shorting the battery and that's one way they go pooof. but hey, if it's workin' for ya, then GOOD JOB.

 

[megacycle]

Mel she was alright till she got the tatts, this is a better shot right
Hang on on were's my glasses Aaarrrgghh.

Yeh i butchered the hall wiring, shortin 2, shoulda swapped the nuts for nylocs in the interim, waiting on custom torque arms, on the steep section of learning curve now.
Took all the halls out and then hang on where the #%# do i get the newies :lol:
Now lids off Might do docs mod, now i'm reminded, star/delta for 2 winds in 1

The A123 lifepo4 pouch, looked like a runt, starting to puff up, was surplus to requirements anyhow.
The tabs & copper get hot but the pouch just pumps those welds
Luke live for physics was testing them similar when they first came out, there freaking amazin.

Got day off so time for mods.
Havnt got the ebrake on so popped the controller case open and did the bk-gnd link.
Few guys saying may not need to do resistor mod for regen hvc/lvc for this.
See how it goes.

 

[Trackman417]

as for "power hungry" at 55 amps and 70 volts the motor does about 66kph. I think Hyena has his up to low 70's though. There's been some private discussion that this motor my in fact possibly have a few different winds floating around. I've taken it up a 2 km long hill that rises about 150-200 metres from start to finish at full throttle and the side cover feels about 15 degrees warmer than ambient using a "palm meter" :wink:

Yeah there are many different winds of the H40XX motors out there. Hi-power cycles finally got some of them, and started putting "Ultra and super" in with the mix when I emailed them. They have the 4055 motor all the way up to the H4095 . Wanted to buy one of the unmodded ones from them, but not at the price they wanted me to buy them. Hell no
The colder weather is starting to pop up here and I am not investing any big bucks into my bike... until spring

Thats the one thing I hate about this "hobby". Once you start you never stop spending

As for the pics of mel.... I'm gonna keep the vasoline on my lens and call it however beautiful I want .

 

[Hobbit]

'scuse my MASSIVE photos but yes, I believe cntrl +/- seems to work for gettin' it all in.

This is the Nirve fatass 24 x 3.0 tyre I'm going to run with when I get around to relacing my 4080 into a 24' rim and a 26 x 2.5 hookworm side by side for comparison. The Nirve kinda looks like a kenda flame 24 x 3. The hookworm is on the crystalyte rim the motors came with (fer now). The Nirve is in one of hyena's 2 inch wide rims. After this wears out the next logical step up seems to be 90/90 by 19 size motorcycle tyres (ala Dr bass.)......and moped brakes and front suspension and a 60tooth front chainring and a gopro and nanotech and an onboard charger and a sonic canon for pedestrian control and more amps and........ :lol:

 

[megacycle]

Seriously fat and phatttt.
Wicked pattern, won't ask wad they set you back Hobbs.

I'm on the bones of me ass with it all too, good job theres a seat under it all

 

[Hyena]

Cool, just about to pull the trigger on one of those myself. They're actually not as wide as I thought the'd be next to the hookie, which is supposedly only 2.5" right ?
It's a bit hard to tell from the photo but is there much tread wrapping around the side ? I'm hoping to get it fatter again on my 3" wide rim but it if hasn't got much more tread there's probably nothing much to gain...

Has Doc managed to get a 19" motorcycle tyre on a 24" pushy rim ? Link ?
I know they're roughly the same size but wasn't sure if they're a straight fit. If so... *rubs hands together* 8)
I thought a 20" was closer to fitting, but they're an odd size to find

 

[Hobbit]

this shows a bit more profile.

 

[icecube57]

Bumpity bump bump bump. Update pwease.

 

[Hobbit]

Ok... so Igot fairly discouraged and stalled the progress of the battery box for a little while there. I was considering scraping it and starting over but It's pretty damn close to complete so I'll see it through. The JB weld was a total fail. not sure if i didn't get the blend exactly 50/50 or it was so damn cold that night that it didn't cure right but 2 days later unclamped it and just popped the join apart with a little tug. so I've pulled out the rivet gun and ran out of rivets! I'll grind away the "rivetty bit" :lol: sticking inside the box to avoid lipo puncture shudder then cover whats left with neoprene sheet for a smooth cushiony lipo cubby house. The colour isn't even close to matching the bike frame but I was a fraid that it might look a little feminine. I've gone with a matt aqua. might put a clear coat over it for longevity...who knows.

Something else worth reporting to you specifically Mr Icecube, the 50 amp rated Crystallyte controller regularly pulls 55 or so amps at WOT. You put a 50 amp AGU fuse in my harness and a couple of weeks ago, riding along whistling away and the bike died. I looked at the fuse and it seemed pristine but later after getting it home and starting on a checklist of failpoints ( thanks, Jay ) it was the fuse that failed. It seems that 55amps equates to a very, very slow roast. Instead of the fuse burning out it kinda just warped a little bit each time I went WOT eventually breaking but looking "fine". Now, I'm not saying anything bad about your harness, in fact I think they are the Friggin' shizzle, I've put a 60 amp fuse in and it's all good, I'm just noting that the next NOOB who says they are running Crystalyte at 50 amps ( 'cos that's what it says on the box ) may actually be running 55 amps.

Also it seems pretty clear that this motor is NOT a 4080. up against an identical setup in a drag race, ARGH (the other guy) had about 20 or 30% more acceleration. he sees mid 70's kph, I'm seeing 66k's tops. I would love to think it's just some mod i've frocked up 'cos then I could fix it and be too damned fast for my own good but I've got a feeling that our man Kenny has snuck in a sneaky slower wind. I'll pull the cover off and take some piccies soon. In the meantime, I'm off to Newcastle, WOOHOO.

 

[Hyena]

The colour isn't even close to matching the bike frame but I was a fraid that it might look a little feminine. I've gone with a matt aqua.

Looks good mate, maybe add some frangipani stickers on there as well - should finish it off nicely


(co-incidence that when I googled "frangipani bike" that was the first pic that came up, in the right colour and everything ! haha)

I'm just noting that the next NOOB who says they are running Crystalyte at 50 amps ( 'cos that's what it says on the box ) may actually be running 55 amps.

Yeah you should always run the fuse over, it's not like a controller rated for 50 amps is going to explode and tear a hole in the fabric of the universe if it sees 70 amps or so. My exact same controller is running 100 amps so it's not like you're protecting anything. They're basically just there to stop short circuits or major failures, which with a big lipo pack behind it happy to squirt out several hundred amps could be spectacular.

Also it seems pretty clear that this motor is NOT a 4080.

I'm still not convinced it's not to to with the upright riding position and combined bike and rider weight (not that you'd be much heavier than argh but I reckon you bike would be). I'd be tempted to throw it on a hardtail and see how it stacks upup against an identical setup in a drag race. I'd also be disconnecting the CA for a top speed run to make sure that's not stepping in. What's your freewheel speed on a full charge ? From memory it's high 90s, which is the right wind (reference my test vid of the 4080 that ended up on my fighter HERE

In the meantime, I'm off to Newcastle, WOOHOO.

Have fun, I wish I could make it up, hopefully next year.
For reference everyone else, we're talking about the hunter EV festival. Newcastle isn't ordinarily THAT much of an exciting place :lol:

 

[Hobbit]

Looks good mate, maybe add some frangipani stickers on there as well - should finish it off nicely


(co-incidence that when I googled "frangipani bike" that was the first pic that came up, in the right colour and everything ! haha)

HAHAHAHA yeah, my wife actually refers to to as my "girls bike" because of the bizarre geometry AND a seat the size of a bodyboard. :lol:

What's your freewheel speed on a full charge ? From memory it's high 90s, which is the right wind (reference my test vid of the 4080 that ended up on my fighter HERE

100 kph so that's promising. Yeah, I reckon I 've got about 12-15 kg's on Argh and I loaded his bike into Millenium Volkswagen, I reckon mine's about 20 kg's over that, too...........Poofy AND fat ...might have to go have a good hard look at myself

 

[Hyena]

bizarre geometry AND a seat the size of a bodyboard. :lol:

Yes I imagine it's akin to riding an electric bar stood :lol:
Having ridden it I dont think the others on the group ride appreciate just how well you did on those rough offroad trails. It's not at all a technical, offroad machine.

100 kph so that's promising.

Ah good, get of my case then asshole . haha

Yeah, I reckon I 've got about 12-15 kg's on Argh and I loaded his bike into Millenium Volkswagen, I reckon mine's about 20 kg's over that, too...........Poofy AND fat ...might have to go have a good hard look at myself

Or you could look at yourself as a bloke out for a laid bike ride on his cruiser, not a jockey on a toey race horse. A change in attitude is alot less work than exercise

 

[Trackman417]

Ok... so Igot fairly discouraged and stalled the progress of the battery box for a little while there. I was considering scraping it and starting over but It's pretty damn close to complete so I'll see it through. The JB weld was a total fail. not sure if i didn't get the blend exactly 50/50 or it was so damn cold that night that it didn't cure right but 2 days later unclamped it and just popped the join apart with a little tug. so I've pulled out the rivet gun and ran out of rivets! I'll grind away the "rivetty bit" :lol: sticking inside the box to avoid lipo puncture shudder then cover whats left with neoprene sheet for a smooth cushiony lipo cubby house. The colour isn't even close to matching the bike frame but I was a fraid that it might look a little feminine. I've gone with a matt aqua. might put a clear coat over it for longevity...who knows.

Your new battery enclosure, is atleast 10X better than your first one!
............... Not that your first one wasn't good :lol:
Nice color, is that spray paint?

 

[megacycle]

Yeah you should always run the fuse over, it's not like a controller rated for 50 amps is going to explode and tear a hole in the fabric of the universe if it sees 70 amps or so. My exact same controller is running 100 amps so it's not like you're protecting anything. They're basically just there to stop short circuits or major failures, which with a big lipo pack behind it happy to squirt out several hundred amps

How you getting the stock 72V/50's up to 100A.
They modded

 

[icecube57]

Well I had a failure of my 50A fuse when my bike was peaking at 70-80. It blew in a spectacular fashion... I moved up to an 80A maxi and didnt have anymore problems. For larger controller its hard to size them cause the will instant blow with surge but if its a long moderate draw a fuse can go 125-150% for short periods of time and not blow which is what happened with you. Im offerin the next size up in spare fuses with the latest customers...

 

[Hyena]

How you getting the stock 72V/50's up to 100A.
They modded

You have much to learn young grasshopper
I had the controllers made beefy as shit coz that's how I roll :wink:
The current limit is set at 50a for a variety of reasons, as a default, because most lifepo4 BMSs wont deliver over that, because noobs will burn out motors if they sustain higher currrent draws etc.
Mine is reprogrammed in the software (which as per discussions in my build thread i'm not sure is possible with the later models) but you could achieve the same by modding the shut. For your 5404, solder a copper nail across it* and hang on

* I joke of course, but the 5404 can take as much power as this controller can put out

 

[Hobbit]

Your new battery enclosure, is atleast 10X better than your first one!
............... Not that your first one wasn't good :lol:
Nice color, is that spray paint?

I bought one of those "poorman's spraygun" kits..so I went and selected my colour out of a book at a automotive paint supply shop. They handed me a tin of acrylic, I mix that with thinners and spray it on, but I etch primered it first. Yippee.

... I moved up to an 80A maxi and didnt have anymore problems.....

Yeah, I happened to have a 60A lyin' around but I'll be getting a 100A soon enough.

 

[Hobbit]

You have much to learn young grasshopper
I had the controllers made beefy as shit coz that's how I roll :wink:
The current limit is set at 50a for a variety of reasons, as a default, because most lifepo4 BMSs wont deliver over that, because noobs will burn out motors if they sustain higher currrent draws etc.
Mine is reprogrammed in the software (which as per discussions in my build thread i'm not sure is possible with the later models) but you could achieve the same by modding the shut. For your 5404, solder a copper nail across it* and hang on

* I joke of course, but the 5404 can take as much power as this controller can put out

Oh really? I'm very glad now I bought 2 of these controllers....sounds like a delicious experiment....MUHAHAHAHA

 

[megacycle]

You have much to learn young grasshopper
I had the controllers made beefy as shit coz that's how I roll :wink:
The current limit is set at 50a for a variety of reasons, as a default, because most lifepo4 BMSs wont deliver over that, because noobs will burn out motors if they sustain higher currrent draws etc.
Mine is reprogrammed in the software (which as per discussions in my build thread i'm not sure is possible with the later models) but you could achieve the same by modding the shut. For your 5404, solder a copper nail across it* and hang on

* I joke of course, but the 5404 can take as much power as this controller can put out

Oh really? I'm very glad now I bought 2 of these controllers....sounds like a delicious experiment....MUHAHAHAHA

Seconded on the MUHAHAHA and what's a bms more MUHAHAHA.
Oh and were the heck dyou get a 6" copper nail from

Thanks for the info Gangster and supplying these fab motors.
Oh crap got to take that frockin case of again :?

 

[Hyena]

Seconded on the MUHAHAHA and what's a bms more MUHAHAHA.
Oh and were the heck dyou get a 6" copper nail from

Heh you don't need a 6" nail, the shunts are only about 15mm long.

Thanks for the info Gangster and supplying these fab motors.
Oh crap got to take that frockin case of again :?

Just don't break it because this goose has laid the last of those golden eggs
The hulking 5404 can probably take 100 amps for a while and the H40 can too but not as much. I have had the one on my fighter pretty warm when thrashing but then I am feeding it with double the power.
You may not need to remove the board from the case. Remove the end plate with the switch on it and shunts maybe be visible and accessable just there. I know they are on the 12 fets and some of the 18 fets but my particular one is different.

There's a few methods for shunt modding:
* blob on a bit of solder (which I wouldn't recommend)
* solder in a few strands of wire in parallel with the existing shunts (what I often do)
* wrap a bit of copper wire around the 2 shunts up to 1/3rd or 1/2 their length (or what ever) and then solder over it. That will increase the current by the factor that wrap the shunts together (eg if you half wrap it the current will double) I'd start with just 1/3rd, that will give you a decent boost in power that's still safe for the motor and controller.

If you dont get what I mean by wrapping the wire around the 2 shunts - imagine the shunts are your 2 legs and you're bandaging them together. Start and the ankles and strap the 2 legs together until you reach the knees

 

[Hobbit]

And then rerun the methods calibration thang.
 


methods wrote:

1) I plug the CA into your controller
2) I attach a power supply to your controller (typically 48V).....or your batteries!
3) I set the iCharger constant current source (Foam Cut) to 20A
4) I attach the (+) iCharger output to your main ground.
Main power and main ground are the big wires going to your battery.  - main ground is the big black wire.
5) I attach the (-) iCharger output to one of your phase leads
No hub motor. Only your controller, battery, CA, and the iCharger. Just plug the (+) icharger lead into a T-connector on the big black wire (i.e. tap in) and the iCharger (-) into any of the three phase leads.
6) I turn on the controller to power the CA
7) I activate the iCharger to drive the constant current
8) I note the value displayed on the CA
9) I turn off the current source
10) I calculate your new CA setting and program it
11) I then repeat the test to confirm settings are +/- 0.1A
 

 

[megacycle]

Seconded on the MUHAHAHA and what's a bms more MUHAHAHA.
Oh and were the heck dyou get a 6" copper nail from

Heh you don't need a 6" nail, the shunts are only about 15mm long.

Thanks for the info Gangster and supplying these fab motors.
Oh crap got to take that frockin case of again :?

Just don't break it because this goose has laid the last of those golden eggs
The hulking 5404 can probably take 100 amps for a while and the H40 can too but not as much. I have had the one on my fighter pretty warm when thrashing but then I am feeding it with double the power.
You may not need to remove the board from the case. Remove the end plate with the switch on it and shunts maybe be visible and accessable just there. I know they are on the 12 fets and some of the 18 fets but my particular one is different.

There's a few methods for shunt modding:
* blob on a bit of solder (which I wouldn't recommend)
* solder in a few strands of wire in parallel with the existing shunts (what I often do)
* wrap a bit of copper wire around the 2 shunts up to 1/3rd or 1/2 their length (or what ever) and then solder over it. That will increase the current by the factor that wrap the shunts together (eg if you half wrap it the current will double) I'd start with just 1/3rd, that will give you a decent boost in power that's still safe for the motor and controller.

If you dont get what I mean by wrapping the wire around the 2 shunts - imagine the shunts are your 2 legs and you're bandaging them together. Start and the ankles and strap the 2 legs together until you reach the knees

The 5404s been going great, sorry I did the hall wiring on the 4060, crap.
But ok cos that one wanna star/delta and temp sense so no room for hall wiring.
The controller is one you supplied to Danny in WA.
Its been going great, supplying peak around 2kW+ to the 5404 on CA @ 70V.
Heard of too many guys ending up with expensive paperweights both controllers and motors
In saying frock it, that always up for the punishment of a good mod though and if its just inside sweet.
If your wrapping it around in that space must be thin ive got some 7 strand 1.5mm2, so 1 strand should be cool to get in there so 1/2 wrap for the 100A punishment

You done the mod Hobbs sounds like your in the know.
The Meth test work on yours ok?
I'm :? measuring the current that way must be the rms, oh Yeh that figures.
Don't have constant current, got a dc clamp though.
Fire in the hole and measure it running on the stand.

Batt box fitted? like the Aqua.
With the pot rivets, I got a g clamp in, if you can, making sure to protect the clamped external surface, and squeezed them close to flat and got stick on foam strip over
them and helped stop Batts moving around too.

 

[megacycle]

Can see the 4 shunts about an inch in but caps in way, you must have the dexterity of gynecologist gangster :wink:
Could shove a copper 2mm approx dia big cable strand section through the humps on one side with a pair of long nose, and so short them close to 1/3 to1/2 of way and pray it stays there, otherwise its plan B, circuit surgery, might get round to using your famous regen calc then too.