NStone775 said:
Just to clarify there's clearly a bushing machine welded onto the hub. That bushing is fixed, but it seems the axle may be pressed into that bushing. On one side (2nd pic) the axle clearly looks removable (c clip, key, small gap where it meets the bushing) but on the other side it almost looks like one piece. So perhaps it is tapered or an interference fit.
The bolded above is highly likely; it's a typical way to do this, with the key being a primary torque-transfer mechanism. The axle would enter from the side opposite the c-clip.
Regardless, thanks for the suggestions & sanity check!... looks like I'll continue down this path but move up to the 20-ton press and/or heat.
Heat first.
Alternately, if that doesn't work and you have the means, you could freeze the whole assembly first, then apply heat rapidly to the stator support area including the welded-on bushing. That makes the axle contract and the rest expand, increasing the size difference and making it easier to remove.
Installing the new axle can be done by freezing it first, and heating the other, then doing the press-install (keeping keyway lined up for key insertion, if key isn't already insertable during install).
Unless it wouldn't b that hard to just weld on a stub, turn it down, and thread it. Iirc, there's alot of issues w that route with losing hardening/weldability/machinability.
The main issue with welding onto the existing axle (having done this to repair a few broken ones :lol: ) is keeping welding spatter/etc out of the rest of the motor, and keeping the new part aligned completely with the old one so it's straight, including as it cools down.
Sucks to have a warped axle that won't let the wheel sit straight in the frame.
The last bit wouldn't be an issue if you're turning it down after the install, but if you do what I did and just put a new threaded part on....