juanfeli
100 W
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I used the recommended 5ml and saved the other half. When I put it back on, I had the wheel in the stand and was checking it for smooth rotation and good caliper clearance, but although I kept seeing it clear of anything rubbing I nevertheless could feel a small drag as it it were! It really kind of bugged me for about 15 minutes. I was checking and re checking and finding nothing? It was then I sheepishly remembered that FF has some drag to it you can barely feel it though when riding, and even less so when the hub gets warm. Bonus is I haven't been able to overheat it yet (or @least I hope so since my onboard therm is apparently not CA compatibleAllex said:ABritInNY, how much ff did you use?
ABritInNY said:OK guys, we'll I bought myself a 4t leaf last autumn and used it on my EEB build. Less than 500 miles and catastrophic failure of the axle occurred!
What the drive side looks like after removing it off the bike...scary...
View attachment 1
The piece of broken axle and bolt still screwed on, right after fishing it out of the street.
Funny thing is, I emailed leaf about it and the main guy Peter, (incidentally the same guy that took my order and promised great customer service!) Claims that in over 100,000 sold motors he's never HEARD OR SEEN ANY type of axle failure lol... obviously I pointed him in the direction of ES and the many reported incident, instead of calling him out for the liar we both knew he was!. Instead I told him of the 16mm upgrades some manufacturers have gone with to avoid it happening more BUT after that last denial email no further reply
Leaf was good while working but it is possible that the axles are not as strong as you may think.
For me it's possible that high regen of my new sine wave ESC caused it? but whatever the issue was, I'd advise a Lil extra caution, and to examine the dropouts @least once a month to make sure there is no play @all and that the lug bolts are tightly secured and pinch bolts on TA's too, so that they can't cause any tiny vibrations and shear the axle.
Cowardlyduck said:My '1500W' Leaf motor came alive the other day...at 7.8KW
Cheers
hubmotor that will benefit the most from ferro-fluid + motor-rim fins
speedmd said:hubmotor that will benefit the most from ferro-fluid + motor-rim fins
Saw some heat sink extrusion profiles that may be perfect for this last week. What width will the motors center fit. Spoke flange to spoke flange minus the corner radius?
spinningmagnets said:I believe the Leaf is the one hubmotor that will benefit the most from ferro-fluid + motor-rim fins. The Edge 1500W has the aluminum stator-support as a heat sponge, but it is heavier than the Leafbike.
spinningmagnets said:Baron, The Edge hubmotor is 16.8 lbs / 7.6 kg with no spokes or rim, I've seen published weights for the Leafbike with spokes and rim, but I don't remember the weight without.
pomah said:The question is this, do I need the 1500W motor or could I settle for the 1000W, maybe even with splines? Why I ask is because I want to use my 8 speed cassette setup that I have now, so using the 1000W I can mount that straight on, but going for the 1500W it is not even sure if I can fit a 7 speed, right?
I was thinking of limiting the leaf motor at 25 amps, I dont need much more power then that, so the 1000W would be above it's spec, but the 1500 would be well under, as far as I could understand from this thread.
Racer_X said:Get the 1000w motor if you are going to run 25 amps. 1500w hubmotors need 40+ amps controllers to be happy.
neptronix said:Racer_X said:Get the 1000w motor if you are going to run 25 amps. 1500w hubmotors need 40+ amps controllers to be happy.
Go look at the dyno graph for the default 4T winding. You'll find it near the first page.
This motor hits peak efficiency at 30mph, or 48v ~21A. Just around 90% efficient at the 1000w mark.
So actually, it's a perfect application...
You would want to use the 6T motor in a 26" wheel with 48v to get close to this exact point, because the default 4T winding would be a gutless wonder on a 25A controller.
But therein lies the question.. is it reasonable to buy a 16lb motor and only use half of it's capabilities? you get great efficiency... but for that power level, you could also use a 10lb. MAC/BMC motor and see maybe ~83% efficiency instead.
pomah said:I was looking at the q100, but as far as I have read they dont do well over 1000W, is the mac any different? As it is now, my commute is 15 min at 800w, the total commute is 20 min, and sometimes I want to travel to the city center, so that would be a 30 min ride with 20-25 min at 800W. I have tried running my falco at 20 amps but it just overheats to fast and goes down in 10A mode....
fussler said:So I just went and bought a "Leafmotor 1500W" and one C7240-GR controller.
Sadly, I can not manage to figure out what setting I should be doing inside CA3 setup.Can someone point me some advice.
I am an ambitious noob
Racer_X said:Have you tried to contact Grin Technologies customer service? They are usually really good at trouble shooting these types of problems.
fussler said:So I just went and bought a "Leafmotor 1500W" and one C7240-GR controller.
Sadly, I can not manage to figure out what setting I should be doing inside CA3 setup.Can someone point me some advice.
I am an ambitious noob