MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

[Rix]

I'm already getting customers asking me to swap the main cables because they read someone else did it. It's getting tedious.

Sam, I want to apologize for this. I have been talking about the MXUS and mods Allex has done to mine on a couple of different threads now. I plan on bursting north of 110 dc amps through mine with a Max E on my next build. I will stop.

BTW, Rix, I think I am ready to send the motor and controller over now. I have all of the stuff on the shelf ready - Charge Coil, PSU(charger), BMS, Motor, Throttle and Controller.

At your convenience Allex, Still waiting on the Flux and other parts for a rolling chassis.

 

[BoomerChomsi]

Okay thanks for the warnings mates!
I will make a boost switch, so more control of higher amps

So 60A is phase or battery current?

Thank you!

60A battery should be fine. Higher phase current for higher Kv motors (3T) and lower phase current for slower KV motors (6T)
Been riding a 6T motor in a 29" fat tire, at 40A battery, and the thing will wheelie no problem at that current.

Thanks for the info!
Makes it excited to laced this motor asap

 

[Stielz]

Is anyone in Australia selling these motors?

 

[ozman]

Is anyone in Australia selling these motors?

yes Samd sells them i bought 2 of them from him
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=65209

 

[teslanv]

What voltage are you using on the 6T setup?

18S Multistars. 75V hot.

 

[tomjasz]

Is anyone in Australia selling these motors?

yes Samd sells them i bought 2 of them from him
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=65209

Careful with that Samd guy, you could end up with a stellar frame to match. Great battery source as well.

 

[GreenRoad]

so i build up my own cabeling solution - for better performance.

I use 6mm² - more would be also possible....
Now i can use 70A without any problems of overheating the cable.
The motor works now well - i get no temperature more than 60C° measure direct at the coild.

i use parts i have left from my chrystalyte project - The side motor cover works also for the MXUS - they have the same distance for the screw.....


Now i will use an 72V Battery an give the motor 4KW --- i will see what happening....

 

[Rix]

so i build up my own cabeling solution - for better performance.

I use 6mm² - more would be also possible....
Now i can use 70A without any problems of overheating the cable.
The motor works now well - i get no temperature more than 60C° measure direct at the coild.

i use parts i have left from my chrystalyte project - The side motor cover works also for the MXUS - they have the same distance for the screw.....


Now i will use an 72V Battery an give the motor 4KW --- i will see what happening....

Nicely done.

 

[macribs]

so i build up my own cabeling solution - for better performance.

I use 6mm² - more would be also possible....
Now i can use 70A without any problems of overheating the cable.
The motor works now well - i get no temperature more than 60C° measure direct at the coild.

i use parts i have left from my chrystalyte project - The side motor cover works also for the MXUS - they have the same distance for the screw.....


Now i will use an 72V Battery an give the motor 4KW --- i will see what happening....

What do you got there? Custom made axle and larger bearings? What you reckon is the biggest wire size possible to fit?

 

[GreenRoad]

so i build up my own cabeling solution - for better performance.

I use 6mm² - more would be also possible....
Now i can use 70A without any problems of overheating the cable.
The motor works now well - i get no temperature more than 60C° measure direct at the coild.

i use parts i have left from my chrystalyte project - The side motor cover works also for the MXUS - they have the same distance for the screw.....


Now i will use an 72V Battery an give the motor 4KW --- i will see what happening....

What do you got there? Custom made axle and larger bearings? What you reckon is the biggest wire size possible to fit?

thats parts of a chrystalyte project.
.. i found out that this also fits on the mxus.
at the Mxus i did not change the axle - its the factory axle allready.
With my solution i can bring nearly every wire diameter i want inside the motor.... but its not possible to pedal..
But i need no pedaling - so its okay for me.

With 6mm" i could drive 70A / 60V for a very long time - the wire gets no temp.
The motor is pretty cool - its better the the crystalyte motor - which gets under the same testing condition faster warmer

 

[macribs]

@GreenRoad Interesting. can you explain maybe with more pics also what you did to ensure it is possible to insert any size wires?
And how come it works on standard axle for mxus when it was made for Crystalyte?

Will you solution work for other motors as, like the QS 205? Very curious now?
If so, got a spare one to sell?

 

[teslanv]

It looks like the solution is a custom cover plate. Some photos of how your 6mm wire passes through the bearing would be helpful.

 

[ax57ax57]

TeslaNV,

You wrote previously that MXUS would ship motors with small spoke holes, will the June shipment that you're expecting have the smaller spoke holes? I'm pretty much sold on this motor, and I concede to the argument that the small diameter moto wheels are superior, but I'd really prefer that the build look as much like a conventional bicycle as possible. As a compromise, I was contemplating lacing the motor into a 24" bicycle rim as some others here have done. I could drill my own spoke holes if I had to, but I'd rather not.

 

[teslanv]

TeslaNV,

You wrote previously that MXUS would ship motors with small spoke holes, will the June shipment that you're expecting have the smaller spoke holes? I'm pretty much sold on this motor, and I concede to the argument that the small diameter moto wheels are superior, but I'd really prefer that the build look as much like a conventional bicycle as possible. As a compromise, I was contemplating lacing the motor into a 24" bicycle rim as some others here have done. I could drill my own spoke holes if I had to, but I'd rather not.

Yes, I was able to get MXUS to make the incoming order with 3.3mm diameter spoke holes, which is perfect for 12G spokes.

 

[icecube57]

Im all for performance but I have a 4T. Stock phase wire and vented and of takes 80a and 160 phase continuous without issue. I don't see what is there to gain. And if there is anything to gain how much will translate to power to the ground. For 5kw or even 7 or 8kw you are fine stock. Especially for the average and above average Joe. I think it's more important to match the motor and voltage to your terrain and style of riding. I see into many times wrong motor winding and absolutely to high of voltage on some motors.

 

[ax57ax57]

Im all for performance but I have a 4T. Stock phase wire and vented and of takes 80a and 160 phase continuous without issue. I don't see what is there to gain. And if there is anything to gain how much will translate to power to the ground. For 5kw or even 7 or 8kw you are fine stock. Especially for the average and above average Joe. I think it's more important to match the motor and voltage to your terrain and style of riding. I see into many times wrong motor winding and absolutely to high of voltage on some motors.

Christopher,

Is yours laced into a 26" wheel?

 

[icecube57]

Yes it is. And Loving it. It still pulls hard enough for me to use the Cycle Analyst V3 to tune down the ramping because it accelerates so hard. Im on the more extreme end as far as wheel sizes. Most people are using much smaller wheel sizes. Smaller wheel sizes could yield more continuous power but it just all depends on the winding, tires size, voltage, and terrain.

 

[Samd]

Chris, thankyou.
I'm getting lots of customers asking for upgraded phases, and new bearings on my V2 stock. I'm wondering if the inexpensive nature of this motor leads people to think it needs upgrading even for moderate use...

 

[icecube57]

Chris, thankyou.
I'm getting lots of customers asking for upgraded phases, and new bearings on my V2 stock. I'm wondering if the inexpensive nature of this motor leads people to think it needs upgrading even for moderate use...

This is a bit of a rant so dont take it personal.
Im a big bloke at 350lbs and Ive never had to replace bearings on any hub motor. The phase wires are 13AWG stock which is certainly better than the 16AWG that we are used to seeing. Even with 16AWG i was shoving 5kw into it. By no means I am lazy when it opening and working on hub motors. I take them apart and drill holes in the cover and what not. I like what I see as far as quality in the MXUS and saw no need to upgrade anything in it. On the 9C variants I used to atleast take the black sheathing off the wire and put heat shrink on the phases to free up room for temp sensor wires. I reused the stock 16awg phase wires and cut them short about 6 inches outside the axle. But all the hard work is done. The people that are upgrading phases are on a mission to burn up some stuff because they are going to aggressively throw whatever that can at it and want it to be bullet proof. I have a bike that is capable of 45mph continuous and I have a 2.2KWH pack that means I can go literally miles and miles and miles and miles on my pack and I have abused the shit out of the motor and I dont see any indications of failure. People need to make sure the spend the money on the V3 Cycle analyst and use the thermal throttling. That is all that is needed to prevent you from burning something. Those who are cheaping out and going by touch and feel to gauge motor temps will be the ones that wiill be hollering about how they cooked some hall sensors or their windings are dark or there is a short in the windings. The same bs stories that we usually hear cause they dogged the shit out of the motor without using any of the built in safety features and ignored the warning signs and stuff of a overheated motor. We can deliver the power all day to the motors.The phase wires arent the weak point We can get the motor critical quite easy. The hard part is backing off to not saturate the motor. As the motor gets hotter the resistance goes up and it creates more heat and it gets to be a runaway scenario. But stopping before it gets to that point and thats where the v3 comes in handy. Ive had it pull back the power to 2.5-3kw and still able to maintain 40mph. But for the people that get 18 and 24 fet infentions and jack the settings as high as they will go without blowing the controller and ride it balls to the wall.. just cause the controller can deliver the power continuous.. It doesnt mean that the motor can handle it but if you just use that the CA v3 and allow it to pull you power back ...yes you will notice a slight loss in power but you will realize that you can accomplish alot and not us all the peak power available and if you ride correctly you should be able to burst full power when you need it and allow CA to regulate your power for cruising. Alot of the newbie riders only know WOT and they saturate the shit out of a motor. I used to be one of them but since I started using the temp sensors i have not burned up a motor. People always carry about peak power and top speed and sacrifice reliability and we have to hear the same sob story over and over again. Im one of the people that learned to have their cake and eat it to. Alot of esers build light weight bikes with high voltage battery packs and shit for ah. 8-10AH so yeah you are burning through your pack in 10-15 minutes sometimes. Thats the only thing saving your build form utter destruction. When you a person like my self you start noticing patterns in failures and what causes them and I have decided 18s is the best voltage for me for speed and torque as long as I chose the right winding. This is also a continuous duty voltage where Ive had no serious issues out of my builds when it comes to motor controllers or heat. I have been venting my hub motors for the past 3-4 years also. I often go on long rides and range is key so I always have a ton of capacity. Right now Im using 18s 3P or 66v Nominal and 32Ah of battery and I can dogg my rig from the start of the pack to the end of the pack without skipping a beat. lets focus on building rigs that last instead of these minute man rigs that are powerful but blow their wad in a few minutes. I see so many nice builds with nice claims but non have staying power. Peak power is nice and its fun but when you are done I will be hauling ass by you wish you were there with me. This isnt about money its about putting your money in things where it needs to be so if paid for phase upgrades or whatever and bought a big ass controller an cheaped out and bought a CA v2.3 and not taking advantage of the temp sensor or similar simple minded shit like that... or buy a 3T or 4T motor and put it in the wrong wheel size and throw 24s of voltage and a ton amps at it at it and wonder why its overheating in a minute or failed or blowed your controller I cant feel sorry for some people. The information is here the technology is here. WE TOLD YOU SO. This doesnt have to a rabbit hole. Build it right the first time. Invest in the right things and put your money and focus on where it needs to go. You will always be cheaper in the long run. Even m latest build... when you try to cut a corner you ultimately end up doing or buying what you tried to avoid or what you didnt see as an important detail ..bites you in the but later. Long story short.. phase wires and bearings are the least of your worries. If you are in there and you have the time go for it but more likely 80% of you guys are fine with the motor as is as long as you are smart in other key areas there should be no need for reinforcement of any kind.

 

[macribs]

Reposting that wall of text to make it more easy to read.

This is a bit of a rant so dont take it personal.
Im a big bloke at 350lbs and Ive never had to replace bearings on any hub motor. The phase wires are 13AWG stock which is certainly better than the 16AWG that we are used to seeing. Even with 16AWG i was shoving 5kw into it. By no means I am lazy when it opening and working on hub motors. I take them apart and drill holes in the cover and what not.

I like what I see as far as quality in the MXUS and saw no need to upgrade anything in it. On the 9C variants I used to atleast take the black sheathing off the wire and put heat shrink on the phases to free up room for temp sensor wires. I reused the stock 16awg phase wires and cut them short about 6 inches outside the axle. But all the hard work is done. The people that are upgrading phases are on a mission to burn up some stuff because they are going to aggressively throw whatever that can at it and want it to be bullet proof.

I have a bike that is capable of 45mph continuous and I have a 2.2KWH pack that means I can go literally miles and miles and miles and miles on my pack and I have abused the shit out of the motor and I dont see any indications of failure. People need to make sure the spend the money on the V3 Cycle analyst and use the thermal throttling. That is all that is needed to prevent you from burning something. Those who are cheaping out and going by touch and feel to gauge motor temps will be the ones that wiill be hollering about how they cooked some hall sensors or their windings are dark or there is a short in the windings. The same bs stories that we usually hear cause they dogged the shit out of the motor without using any of the built in safety features and ignored the warning signs and stuff of a overheated motor.

We can deliver the power all day to the motors.The phase wires arent the weak point We can get the motor critical quite easy. The hard part is backing off to not saturate the motor. As the motor gets hotter the resistance goes up and it creates more heat and it gets to be a runaway scenario. But stopping before it gets to that point and thats where the v3 comes in handy. Ive had it pull back the power to 2.5-3kw and still able to maintain 40mph. But for the people that get 18 and 24 fet infentions and jack the settings as high as they will go without blowing the controller and ride it balls to the wall.. just cause the controller can deliver the power continuous.. It doesnt mean that the motor can handle it but if you just use that the CA v3 and allow it to pull you power back ...yes you will notice a slight loss in power but you will realize that you can accomplish alot and not us all the peak power available and if you ride correctly you should be able to burst full power when you need it and allow CA to regulate your power for cruising.

Alot of the newbie riders only know WOT and they saturate the shit out of a motor. I used to be one of them but since I started using the temp sensors i have not burned up a motor. People always carry about peak power and top speed and sacrifice reliability and we have to hear the same sob story over and over again. Im one of the people that learned to have their cake and eat it to. Alot of esers build light weight bikes with high voltage battery packs and shit for ah. 8-10AH so yeah you are burning through your pack in 10-15 minutes sometimes. Thats the only thing saving your build form utter destruction.

When you a person like my self you start noticing patterns in failures and what causes them and I have decided 18s is the best voltage for me for speed and torque as long as I chose the right winding. This is also a continuous duty voltage where Ive had no serious issues out of my builds when it comes to motor controllers or heat. I have been venting my hub motors for the past 3-4 years also. I often go on long rides and range is key so I always have a ton of capacity. Right now Im using 18s 3P or 66v Nominal and 32Ah of battery and I can dogg my rig from the start of the pack to the end of the pack without skipping a beat. lets focus on building rigs that last instead of these minute man rigs that are powerful but blow their wad in a few minutes. I see so many nice builds with nice claims but non have staying power. Peak power is nice and its fun but when you are done I will be hauling ass by you wish you were there with me.

This isnt about money its about putting your money in things where it needs to be so if paid for phase upgrades or whatever and bought a big ass controller an cheaped out and bought a CA v2.3 and not taking advantage of the temp sensor or similar simple minded shit like that... or buy a 3T or 4T motor and put it in the wrong wheel size and throw 24s of voltage and a ton amps at it at it and wonder why its overheating in a minute or failed or blowed your controller I cant feel sorry for some people. The information is here the technology is here. WE TOLD YOU SO. This doesnt have to a rabbit hole. Build it right the first time. Invest in the right things and put your money and focus on where it needs to go. You will always be cheaper in the long run. Even m latest build... when you try to cut a corner you ultimately end up doing or buying what you tried to avoid or what you didnt see as an important detail ..bites you in the but later. Long story short.. phase wires and bearings are the least of your worries. If you are in there and you have the time go for it but more likely 80% of you guys are fine with the motor as is as long as you are smart in other key areas there should be no need for reinforcement of any kind.

 

[GreenRoad]

Hello
The main thing is - what could the factory motor cable could carry on current / power - for a lifetime.

if the cable is getting warm - that means looses over the wireing - and lot of waste energy.

With my setup iam able to drive up to 70A / at 58V - the motor is not getting warmer than 45C° - and thats good.
The cover is not realy warm....

 

[icecube57]

Lets face it PTFE and Silicone wire can carry way more current than the PVC wires. It can carry way more current cause the jacket of the wire can tolerate the temp. PVC jacketed wire startes to melt around 80C and gets soft and tacky well before this temp. The phase wires have a PTFE coating. It begins to deteriorate after the temperature reaches about 260 °C (500 °F), and decomposes above 350 °C (662 °F) So if you are getting the phase wires anywhere near these temps you are doing it wrong. They should see no more than maybe 120 140C near the windings and much less near the axle. So at this point the jacket of the wire is fine but its not really abrasion resistant.All I do is apply a thin layer of heat shrink so that it can take the few minor scuffs related to reinserting it into the axle and it should be golden. Keeping the wire length short is the key. Short pieces of wire even though its a smaller gauge can carry more current than a long piece wire of the same gauge. So as long as you terminate the phase wires outside the axle you are fine. Upgrade the phase wires from 6 inches outside the axle to the controller.

 

[markz]

I just realized I got the speed motor, 16x4T 448rpm 8.93kv.

What will the changes be in me going to a smaller diameter wheel, like a 22" or 24" as far as the speed decreasing and my torque increasing.
How much will my speed decrease, and how much will my torque increase?

I seriously dont like going over 55km/h, I have no clue what I did today, traffic was 60 so I think I was doing 50, on 16S.
ebikes.ca motor simulator states I can go 58km/h on 67V 40A, so I think I was within 50 to 55km/h.
The excelloration on the 20S was stupid for my liking.
Today I downgraded from 20S 84V RC Lipo to 16S 66.4V. So I can push more amps, if and when I change the settings in my Lyen 18fet controller.
My controller is 18fet 65A, but Im not sure if that was set by Lyen or not.
I tried the same hill today on 16S as I did yesterday on 20S, I'd like to be able to climb it without pedalling.

I prefer climbing hills! So I should have boughten the 6T, but re-reading other posts. The 4T is more efficient, so...I dunno *shrug*

 

[Relanium]

What controller settings do you guys recommend with this motor and EM3EV 18FET infineon (using 20s2p LiPos)?

 

[wesnewell]

The 4T is not the speed motor, the 3T is. The 4T is 9Kv and the 3T is 12Kv. Don't recall the KV for the other ones, but they're post here somewhere. I've got the V1 4T in my dolomite and it has plenty of power run a 24s rc lipo.