My e-ride XPe: Chinese Sailing Ship?

humor now:

GACK, it's that signature advert again for Greenwit.
Ack, choke. I'm having another flashback to the war.

mercy! :lol:


I will smite thee Les with a terse verse (punishment, lol)


Bad is bad
and good is good
and scammers creep.
We knew they would.

A good lad
will fix his bike

I'd rather club
Greenwit. Right.
 
Hey Lesss,

Is your bike the same as the Panterra Fusion I just bought? The only major difference I see is that yours has spokes and a chain, mine has a welded rim and is from 2005. I just posted pictures on the 'Scooter pictures' forum today, and happened to come across your thread...

-JD
 
Yours has an actual spedometer, thicker tires(3x10? mine are 2.5x16).
From your post http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=901 It looks like I'm getting the same performace though :) 18-20 mph, although mine is a bicycle and it's max speed is 32 km/hr (20mph)
 
Two more issues with the Xpe

Seems that the latch to the seat is no longer working. I took a bar and pushed down on the mechanism to latch it and it won't latch. I'll have to take the seat off later and look into that, but the piece that normally goes into that is attached to the seat, the plastic is cracking away from the seat so it looks like the seat isn't going to be latching anytime soon anyway.


Power drain.
Seems the batteries are draining a little fast. I think I have some wires grounding out somewhere and will have to look into it.
 
Little oil on the latch and it's latching again.

A lead to the battery had broken it's solder, resoldered and that pack is working. Second pack I'm still looking at. ( no time to really look at for a couple more days due to work cycle.


http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/7426/loosygoosylb3.png
 
2nd pack, well the fuse holder was the issue, the wire going into it had completely pulled out of the spring assembly, So the battery wasn't properly charging or supplying current. Didn't notice much as two packs were in operation.
 
Another flat. This caused by rubbing between tube and tube protector. Apparently the tire was a little low on pressure and caused the rubbing.
 
Was riding and the road got very rough and broken,. Once over it the bike stopped working. Though it might be the controller but visual inspoection looks good, thought it might be a senso popped out again but opened hub and glue is holding. Can't see the issue. Will have to test.
 
Gotta love those translated specs:

Name:Luxury Electric Bike
Model:TDP007Z
Detail:Specified voltage: 48V
Specified output power: 350W
Battery capacity: 12AH/14AH
Charge time: 3-8h
Loading: 75kg
NW(not include battery): 46kg
Max speed: 30-35km/h
Max range: 50-70km
Owe and press the protecting value: 42±1V
Cross and flow the protecting value: 18±1A
Power consumption per 100km: ≤1.2kwh
Motor noise: ≤62dB
Product size (mm): 1730x690x1120
Centre square: 1150mm
Wheel size: 16â€￾*3.0
Brake: Drum Brake
 
I have power in the controller and no power coming out but the hall sensors each have a 4V reading.

52 across the capacitor.
Ok what to look at next.
 
Brake switch?

4v seems lower than normal, but who knows with that model...
If you can test the output of the halls (the signals) while rotating the wheel slowly, you should see the signal toggle between high and low.
 
I'll try that but I think I am getting 50V into the controller and 0 out.
Right now gotta stay inside away from bike expecting important emails.
 
I spun the wheel and turned the throttle and the wheel spun, jerkily and no where near full power but it spun.

This would indicat a hall sensor?? No way I'm going to be able to measure the hall voltage without another set of hands or at least some clips while I spin the wheel.


hall sensor feedback it what opens the gate Fet gates to allow voltage back out of the controller??
 
Err.. I hate it when that happens.

The symptom you describe indicates the controller is not firing on all 3 phases. The hall sensors are the first suspects. It could also be a blown FET, but since you're not blowing fuses, check the halls first.

I have some skinny, solid core telephone wire that can fit into the backside of the hall connector on mine. You want to probe the halls with the meter negative going to battery negative, controller on, but no throttle. When the motor is slowly turned, you should see the hall signals alternate between high and low.

It would be interesting to do the "roll-back" test too. Power up the controller, no throttle, and try to roll the bike backwards quickly. Note the resistance to rolling. Repeat with the controller off. A healthy controller will give a strong, but smooth resistance to rolling back, but only when the power is on.
 
Nope not a crappy repair by me. However it was a failed hall sensor (American made) and a broken wire leading to another sensor. I heard that lovely Mwamoo sound after correcting those two on twist of the throttle. Glue drying now will assemble and test later. Did notice more wear on the cable going into the axel though. Will have to tape and seal that too.
 
Bike operational again.

While I had the motor off I drilled a second hole in the rim for a second inner tube. First one goes flat I just have to pump up the other.

Had to replace the bolt for the brake assembly, stripped it taking it off.
 
Good deal. Vibration can cause the leads to break off. Securing the wires with glue to prevent movement helps. Crappy american made stuff....
 
Worked for about a mile then down again. Wheel is still getting some power. will have to replace one or both of the other two sensors, after checking for more wire breaks.



Might be better off running new wire entirely. What is the best gage wire for hall sensors and for 48 V 20 amp motor power supply.
 
There is not much current in the hall sensor wires, so it's pretty much a matter of what fits easily. Any gauge will work. High quality teflon insulated wire would be my choice.
 
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