cal3thousand
10 MW
Very interesting, would like to know more about this motor.
New Bafang 8Fun BPM Cassette Freewheel
- Thread starter outside
- Start date
GrayKard
10 kW
cal3thousand said:
How about a few pics first?
The packaging was good so no damage in shipping.
Here's the freehub side. You can see that the wires come out here. The 5 hall and 3 phase wires are in a combined plug. Phase wires are pretty thin.
Put a 203mm rotor and the caliper on so I can make sure there is plenty of room. Clears the hub and should have plenty of room at the spokes.
The order took a little over a week to process at GreenBikeKit and shipping was 6 days. I used Fedex and the tracking actually worked the entire way. Only gripe I have is the main account page does not update properly showing the order status. In fact on that page it still lists it as processing. But when you go to the detail page of the order it updates and shows the correct status.
When I just checked my order page it had this message:
Aug 2, 2012 9:42:19 AM
Dear Gary, We checked the parcel and it's said that you have recieved the cargo. How are the CST motor going? We are going to source some CST motor for stock, therefore your feedbacks for the CST motor would be appreciate.
I guess they are just drop shipping them now? There's no obvious way to leave feedback on that page so I'm not sure how they want me to respond. Not much I can tell them yet as won't be able to test it properly until I get some spokes and a rim. I haven't even hooked it up yet but I should have time tomorrow to give it a first spin.
Gary
full-throttle
1 MW
Thanks for the update
Is there a support bearing at the end of the cassette spline?
If you could post more closeups that would be great
Is there a support bearing at the end of the cassette spline?
If you could post more closeups that would be great
GrayKard
10 kW
full-throttle said:Thanks for the update
Is there a support bearing at the end of the cassette spline?
If you could post more closeups that would be great
I'll get some closeups for you and check for a bearing tomorrow. I will also try to get it running and check the no load speed. From the info on the website I think its a 10t wind.
Gary
Kiwi
1 kW
I too have been trying to source theses motors.
I am finding it impossible to make contact with 8Fun.
BMS battery say they will stock the CST for $245usd, always next week, but its never listed.
If anyone gets close to direct ording let me know, I am after a 100 or so if they prove to be any good.
Kiwi
I am finding it impossible to make contact with 8Fun.
BMS battery say they will stock the CST for $245usd, always next week, but its never listed.
If anyone gets close to direct ording let me know, I am after a 100 or so if they prove to be any good.
Kiwi
motomech
10 MW
It's linked right above you;
http://www.greenbikekit.com/
http://www.greenbikekit.com/
GrayKard
10 kW
Couple more pics. First one shows the serial number and related info.
Second is the end of the spline assembly. You can see there is a bearing on the end. I tried to shift the spline in various directions and there is no play at all.
I pulled a set of 8 gears off an unused freehub and after I clean them up I will do a test fitting.
Gary
Second is the end of the spline assembly. You can see there is a bearing on the end. I tried to shift the spline in various directions and there is no play at all.
I pulled a set of 8 gears off an unused freehub and after I clean them up I will do a test fitting.
Gary
full-throttle
1 MW
Thanks Gary
It looks very nice. Glad they moved away from the outer shell design of BPM II.
Hopefully the local distributor gets me one soon
It looks very nice. Glad they moved away from the outer shell design of BPM II.
Hopefully the local distributor gets me one soon
GrayKard
10 kW
Fitted the 8 gears onto the motor and it looks good.
Put it in my motor testing frame to check the fit. They actually have it narrow enough to put in the supplied torque washers without stretching the frame!
View attachment 1
The supplied torque washer fitted. It may look in the photo like it will rub but there is a least 1mm clearance.
With the washers on both sides it drops in perfectly. I bolted it up and hooked up a sensorless learning controller so I wouldn't have to mess with matching wires for the first spin up. It was a 9fet from BMSbattery.
Here's what I got with 12s lipo:
50 volts
.75amps
24.5mph at no load.
Then I tried 18s of lipo:
75 volts
1.4amps
37mph at no load.
The speedometer was calibrated for a 26inch wheel so looks like a slow wind but not sure what code it would be offhand. Later I hooked up a sensored 12fet I got with my HBS kit and got it running with all matched colors. Ran nice and smooth and at same speeds but with just a little higher amp draw. On 12s it ran right at 1amp at full speed.
Gary
Put it in my motor testing frame to check the fit. They actually have it narrow enough to put in the supplied torque washers without stretching the frame!
View attachment 1
The supplied torque washer fitted. It may look in the photo like it will rub but there is a least 1mm clearance.
With the washers on both sides it drops in perfectly. I bolted it up and hooked up a sensorless learning controller so I wouldn't have to mess with matching wires for the first spin up. It was a 9fet from BMSbattery.
Here's what I got with 12s lipo:
50 volts
.75amps
24.5mph at no load.
Then I tried 18s of lipo:
75 volts
1.4amps
37mph at no load.
The speedometer was calibrated for a 26inch wheel so looks like a slow wind but not sure what code it would be offhand. Later I hooked up a sensored 12fet I got with my HBS kit and got it running with all matched colors. Ran nice and smooth and at same speeds but with just a little higher amp draw. On 12s it ran right at 1amp at full speed.
Gary
greenspark
100 W
- Joined
- Oct 23, 2011
- Messages
- 176
Can anyone comment on the performance difference between the BPM CST 250W and 350W variations? We will be using a 36v 8.8 bottle battery on a 700c-35 city bike.
http://szbaf.com/product.asp?id=2
http://www.greenbikekit.com/index.php/electric-motor/rear-bldc-1/bafang-cst-bldc-motor.html.
The law in New Zealand splits the difference at 300W, and does not bother to specify what this means... some dealers sell bikes with 300W rated power but higher "peak power". It only matters when there is a crash and the police do an investigation, but that is not a time when one wants to get hit with additional liability because the motor was 50W over the limit. I'm trying to work out what the two motor ratings mean in real life, and if I can program the controller to limit it to 300W and get that somehow certified (or of course, just buy the 250W which seems to be spec'd for Europe).
We are trying various bike configurations to promote "slow cycling" in New Zealand, which seems to run counter to most bike stores that sell racy mountain or road bikes when there is a huge audience for the sort of bikes Raleigh made back in the 1950's. Given NZ's hills, electric assist is helpful, but we find most of the motors tested to date are skewed toward top speed, not 20-degree hills (need more torque, less top end).
In this test we are looking at a full-sized folding bike, and have brought back a Montague Crosstown from the US (at about half the price the Australian distributor wants). It has a nice cassette set up with a huge low gear and six normal. We would prefer to keep that cassette rather than go with a threaded freewheel. This Bafung may fit the bill, but a little advice from someone using it would be helpful.
Comments on this 250vs350W question, and on the motor's real world performance (either 250 or 350W) would be appreciated. I expect that on the watt question, experience with other Bafungs would be applicable.
http://szbaf.com/product.asp?id=2
http://www.greenbikekit.com/index.php/electric-motor/rear-bldc-1/bafang-cst-bldc-motor.html.
The law in New Zealand splits the difference at 300W, and does not bother to specify what this means... some dealers sell bikes with 300W rated power but higher "peak power". It only matters when there is a crash and the police do an investigation, but that is not a time when one wants to get hit with additional liability because the motor was 50W over the limit. I'm trying to work out what the two motor ratings mean in real life, and if I can program the controller to limit it to 300W and get that somehow certified (or of course, just buy the 250W which seems to be spec'd for Europe).
We are trying various bike configurations to promote "slow cycling" in New Zealand, which seems to run counter to most bike stores that sell racy mountain or road bikes when there is a huge audience for the sort of bikes Raleigh made back in the 1950's. Given NZ's hills, electric assist is helpful, but we find most of the motors tested to date are skewed toward top speed, not 20-degree hills (need more torque, less top end).
In this test we are looking at a full-sized folding bike, and have brought back a Montague Crosstown from the US (at about half the price the Australian distributor wants). It has a nice cassette set up with a huge low gear and six normal. We would prefer to keep that cassette rather than go with a threaded freewheel. This Bafung may fit the bill, but a little advice from someone using it would be helpful.
Comments on this 250vs350W question, and on the motor's real world performance (either 250 or 350W) would be appreciated. I expect that on the watt question, experience with other Bafungs would be applicable.
GrayKard
10 kW
Well greenspark, I have rims being shipped for my 350 watt CST but they won't be here until the 20th and then I need to order spokes. I don't want to order spokes until I have the rims in hand just in case there is a problem with them.
I don't think I will have my motor on a bike for at least 2 weeks... but I will get some data here as soon as I can. Everything about my new build is taking way too long.
Gary
I don't think I will have my motor on a bike for at least 2 weeks... but I will get some data here as soon as I can. Everything about my new build is taking way too long.
Gary
GrayKard
10 kW
I bought a digital tach so I could check the rpm directly and it was worse then I expected. No load rpm at 36 volts is 237 so looking at the chart Jeremy posted here then it's a Code 13.
According to the Greenbikekit website this is a 36 volt motor with a max rpm between 283 and 300. Well that would make it a Code 11 but that isn't what I was sent... Strike one for Greenbikekit.
I do have a friend who needs a short range ebike and doesn't need a lot of speed so I think I will convince him this is the perfect motor for his needs 8)
Gary
According to the Greenbikekit website this is a 36 volt motor with a max rpm between 283 and 300. Well that would make it a Code 11 but that isn't what I was sent... Strike one for Greenbikekit.
I do have a friend who needs a short range ebike and doesn't need a lot of speed so I think I will convince him this is the perfect motor for his needs 8)
Gary
GrayKard
10 kW
No, I ran it on 12s lipo which my meter read as almost exactly 50volts under power and 330rpm. Doing the math that gives a Kv of 6.6 and 237rpm at 36volts. Jeremys chart shows that as right on for a Code 13 motor.d8veh said:
Even at 72 volts this wind will still be too slow for my needs.outside said:
Gary
TheBeastie
1 MW
Great info, so runs OK with a 12S lipo? Was afraid it might be too much.GrayKard said:
I am thinking of buying this motor and using that battery setup, I am also interested just to see how nice a ride it is on my current 36v life.
I still got my 9speed Giant Hybrid and I like the idea of dropping in the motor and keeping as many original components as possible.
greenspark
100 W
- Joined
- Oct 23, 2011
- Messages
- 176
In December 2012, we received six CST motors from Bafang to test (we did pay for them, but the factory did cooperate in providing variations for testing). Five went to Wellington, one stayed in Auckland. I kept the Auckland 300W, 36v 12T, installed on a 700c rim. In January I visited the Bafang factory in Suzhou, China and brought back a 14T motor with the same configuration as the one kept in Auckland. Note that normally the motors are either 250W for the Euro (and now Australia) market, the 350W are for the USA and other less restrictive market, but NZ splits the difference with 300W, so Bafang set up ours for the NZ standard. We are working with them to offer the NZ-legal model as a kit that will have features appropriate for our hilly market (high windings, higher Amp controllers, more torque). All motors are being run on 36V batteries, which we deem appropriate for those who ride on the road and want to comply with the law.
The Wellington guy reports the CST is a better built motor than the older Bafang BPM. I cannot comment, having never tried the BPM, but I found the CST to be very smooth, very quiet, and it moves a Montague Crosstown bike with a 180 lb rider up a 20-degree, reasonably-long hill very comfortably with pedalling... about the same effort pedalling as on the flat without a motor. It is a nice motor, and in examining at how it is assembled at the factory, I noted that the winding is now done high-production by machines, which means they should be more reliable than the early days when workers wound motors by hand. China's manufacturing is changing, just like "Made in Japan" in the 1960's meant junk, but by the 1980's meant better than Chrysler and RCA, and in the case of Nikon, equal to Leica. The CST seems to be better because of better Chinese manufacturing standards.
On the Montague we also installed Bafang's S530 BB sensor, a 32 pulse per cycle pedal sensor that is much faster and smoother than the usual 8 pulse pedal sensor that clips on the pedal crank. The BB sensor replaces the bottom bracket (if you order one, ask me how to install it, it's a bit sensitive right now, although Bafang is aware of this and may come out with a revision). Almost immediately it sends power to the motor when one begins to pedal. We also added a thumb throttle and a C910 display with three power modes. We tried the K1200 controller that bolts on the luggage rack in line with the battery, and the Z01 that straps on the frame with zip ties and Z02 controller that is the smallest and we put in a Brooks seat bag. The stock controllers are set to 15A which is inadequate for the 20 degree test hill, so Bafang provided us with a 22A K1200 and a 25A Z01. The 22A is sufficient. When we removed the 12T motor and replaced it with the 14T, we did not notice a difference, both do the job. Note the high windings on a 700C motor are to give torque up hills which is more important than higher top speed. At present, the thumb throttle is keyed to the C910 display, which is designed to control the S530 sensor. What this means that if the C910 is set to low power (settings are 0-1-2-3), the thumb only gives that power (and if the mode is set to zero, the thumb does not work). We have suggested to Bafang to make the thumb throttle independent of the mode setting because it is needed to override. You are at a stop and suddenly there is a bus/truck/car barrelling down on you and you need to get out of the way. Pressing the mode button twice to go from 1 to 3, then hitting the thumb throttle means you are dead meat. Mashing the thumb throttle to get full power just might save you. Bafang is looking at this now. We also are suggesting that for thumb guys, a cruise control feature is important. Since much of their market was Europe, this had not been something they provided. We should get a test unit in a few weeks.
The Wellington guy wanted to go the simple route. His Z01 controllers came with nothing but a thumb throttle and wires to the battery and motor. Less to go wrong. We tried it that way and it works fine, although after a while holding the throttle down can get tiring. Also, it is live all the time, unless you install a power switch (high Amp) between the controller and the battery. It does not have an ebrake kill switch either, which means the only way to cut the motor is to let off the thumb throttle. I worry what might happen if the thumb throttle were to stick in the on position. In any case, Bafang can offer the Z01 with or without the extras, my advice is at least have a kill switch on the handle bar, if not an ebrake kill function.
Note that much of this advice will pertain more to someone who wants to go into the business of ebikes. If you want to buy 300 motors a year, or 40,000, then you go to Bafang and give them your specifications. If you are buying one for yourself, you must take what their dealers have on offer. The beauty of the CST kit is that it can convert a wide range of pedal bikes, especially MTB models, to ebikes that look professional. Choose a bottle battery or rack battery, also supplied by them as part of the kit, and you should have a superior bike to most pre-made ebikes where the frames are either too long (because they stick the battery behind the seat post, adding 4" to the length) or the frames look like anaemic mopeds. For small bike shops in big cities who want to get into the business of offering ebikes, the CST kit is a good way to go. If you want to contact Bafang, PM me and I will make the introduction to the right guy to speak with.
So, bottom line. I own it, I like it, and I think it is a good motor, especially for the person who is not a tinkerer. The old joke about computers says that Apple is Catholic (you do it their way) while Microsoft is Protestant (you figure it out on your own). Bafang is like Apple. The controllers cannot be reprogrammed except by the factory. They listen to the market (as the first poster on this thread demonstrated... he suggested the cassette idea and they did it), but once you get it, it will only work the way they intend. Of course, you can run the CST with someone else's controller. We tried it with an Infineon from CellMan and it worked fine that way as well. Actually, the Montague looks ridiculous right now as it has three thumb throttles, two displays, two speed choice buttons, three controllers and tons of wires all over the place, but that's the joy of testing.
BTW, we are a charitable trust whose mission in this area is to get more people on bicycles, and so far, the cost of testing ebike motors has exceeded the revenue, since there is none except donations. PM me if you want to make a donation... tax deductible in the USA or NZ.
The Wellington guy reports the CST is a better built motor than the older Bafang BPM. I cannot comment, having never tried the BPM, but I found the CST to be very smooth, very quiet, and it moves a Montague Crosstown bike with a 180 lb rider up a 20-degree, reasonably-long hill very comfortably with pedalling... about the same effort pedalling as on the flat without a motor. It is a nice motor, and in examining at how it is assembled at the factory, I noted that the winding is now done high-production by machines, which means they should be more reliable than the early days when workers wound motors by hand. China's manufacturing is changing, just like "Made in Japan" in the 1960's meant junk, but by the 1980's meant better than Chrysler and RCA, and in the case of Nikon, equal to Leica. The CST seems to be better because of better Chinese manufacturing standards.
On the Montague we also installed Bafang's S530 BB sensor, a 32 pulse per cycle pedal sensor that is much faster and smoother than the usual 8 pulse pedal sensor that clips on the pedal crank. The BB sensor replaces the bottom bracket (if you order one, ask me how to install it, it's a bit sensitive right now, although Bafang is aware of this and may come out with a revision). Almost immediately it sends power to the motor when one begins to pedal. We also added a thumb throttle and a C910 display with three power modes. We tried the K1200 controller that bolts on the luggage rack in line with the battery, and the Z01 that straps on the frame with zip ties and Z02 controller that is the smallest and we put in a Brooks seat bag. The stock controllers are set to 15A which is inadequate for the 20 degree test hill, so Bafang provided us with a 22A K1200 and a 25A Z01. The 22A is sufficient. When we removed the 12T motor and replaced it with the 14T, we did not notice a difference, both do the job. Note the high windings on a 700C motor are to give torque up hills which is more important than higher top speed. At present, the thumb throttle is keyed to the C910 display, which is designed to control the S530 sensor. What this means that if the C910 is set to low power (settings are 0-1-2-3), the thumb only gives that power (and if the mode is set to zero, the thumb does not work). We have suggested to Bafang to make the thumb throttle independent of the mode setting because it is needed to override. You are at a stop and suddenly there is a bus/truck/car barrelling down on you and you need to get out of the way. Pressing the mode button twice to go from 1 to 3, then hitting the thumb throttle means you are dead meat. Mashing the thumb throttle to get full power just might save you. Bafang is looking at this now. We also are suggesting that for thumb guys, a cruise control feature is important. Since much of their market was Europe, this had not been something they provided. We should get a test unit in a few weeks.
The Wellington guy wanted to go the simple route. His Z01 controllers came with nothing but a thumb throttle and wires to the battery and motor. Less to go wrong. We tried it that way and it works fine, although after a while holding the throttle down can get tiring. Also, it is live all the time, unless you install a power switch (high Amp) between the controller and the battery. It does not have an ebrake kill switch either, which means the only way to cut the motor is to let off the thumb throttle. I worry what might happen if the thumb throttle were to stick in the on position. In any case, Bafang can offer the Z01 with or without the extras, my advice is at least have a kill switch on the handle bar, if not an ebrake kill function.
Note that much of this advice will pertain more to someone who wants to go into the business of ebikes. If you want to buy 300 motors a year, or 40,000, then you go to Bafang and give them your specifications. If you are buying one for yourself, you must take what their dealers have on offer. The beauty of the CST kit is that it can convert a wide range of pedal bikes, especially MTB models, to ebikes that look professional. Choose a bottle battery or rack battery, also supplied by them as part of the kit, and you should have a superior bike to most pre-made ebikes where the frames are either too long (because they stick the battery behind the seat post, adding 4" to the length) or the frames look like anaemic mopeds. For small bike shops in big cities who want to get into the business of offering ebikes, the CST kit is a good way to go. If you want to contact Bafang, PM me and I will make the introduction to the right guy to speak with.
So, bottom line. I own it, I like it, and I think it is a good motor, especially for the person who is not a tinkerer. The old joke about computers says that Apple is Catholic (you do it their way) while Microsoft is Protestant (you figure it out on your own). Bafang is like Apple. The controllers cannot be reprogrammed except by the factory. They listen to the market (as the first poster on this thread demonstrated... he suggested the cassette idea and they did it), but once you get it, it will only work the way they intend. Of course, you can run the CST with someone else's controller. We tried it with an Infineon from CellMan and it worked fine that way as well. Actually, the Montague looks ridiculous right now as it has three thumb throttles, two displays, two speed choice buttons, three controllers and tons of wires all over the place, but that's the joy of testing.
BTW, we are a charitable trust whose mission in this area is to get more people on bicycles, and so far, the cost of testing ebike motors has exceeded the revenue, since there is none except donations. PM me if you want to make a donation... tax deductible in the USA or NZ.
Attachments
liteCycles
10 W
Cool, but I have to wonder, if testing alone exceeds revenue how does the long term look?
General question: At these power levels is this motor really worth it? What is wrong with geared front hub motor? The only reason I steered clear is fork rigidity issues and the prospect of sudden lock up caused by gear failure. Any basis to this?
General question: At these power levels is this motor really worth it? What is wrong with geared front hub motor? The only reason I steered clear is fork rigidity issues and the prospect of sudden lock up caused by gear failure. Any basis to this?
greenspark
100 W
- Joined
- Oct 23, 2011
- Messages
- 176
Front motors on hills, especially with gravel or when wet, create their own problems. They are more obvious as motors... rear motors are hidden. We have tried the MXUX, Cute100 and Bafang SWXK5 front motors and prefer the rear Bafang CST. We also have had several front motors work free and spin the cables until it unplugs the power. The metal on the front fork seems to have less metal to grip on to than rear motors. Of course torque arms solves this, but that adds more complexity.
-dg
1 kW
greenspark said:
I very interested to hear the results of your comparison of the Cute100 and SWXK5 and your impressions of the two motors. I have an SWXK which is similar to the SWXK5 but am considering a Cute100 for another build.
I'm also looking at a BPM or CST for my third build, so those impression are valuable too. Thanks.
greenspark
100 W
- Joined
- Oct 23, 2011
- Messages
- 176
The Cute100 seems to be the least powerful. The MXUS the most. The SWXK5 the smoothest, with power in between the Cute100 and the MXUS. None of them are great for a 20 degree uphill climb, but going to a front motor that offers the smooth power of the CST in climbing that hill is aesthetically unacceptable for our goals (the motor diameter is too big). I would probably stay with the SWXK5.
We recommend classic European bikes (think the old Raleigh DL types) where a motor the size of these three still could look like a drum brake or generator, but a BPM is just too big; looks out of place. Also, high power on a curved fork is a worry. Riders who have never experienced the silky smoothness of a classic Euro Columbus Thron steel bike with a curved tapered steel fork will be happy bolting a massive motor on the front of a MTB or a straight-forked, rigid aluminium frame that is then softened with energy absorbing shock absorbers that add weight and complexity. That's not our audience, so for us, the problem with all three of the motors we tested is their lack of grunt. For enthusiasts not worried or governed by laws, best to go with a 500W Mac, 48 volt and two torque arms. For our audience, we have not yet found a hill-flattening front motor acceptable for a classic Euro 3-speed city bike.
At this point we are reserving judgement on all front motors until we get to try out the new BBS mid-motor that fits on the bottom bracket; the test unit should be here in about 4-6 weeks. I was impressed with the one I tried out in China, but it was on level ground on a bitter cold day, so I did not give it a proper test. If the BBS gives good power to the chain, and does not have other problems, then we may abandon front motors entirely and recommend only the BBS for internal rear hub bikes and the CST on 7,8,9 speed dérailleur bikes for folks looking for street-legal motors in restrictive countries like EU, NZ, AU, etc. In the USA or for off-road, the enthusiast wants more power, and for them we recommend Paul, Cell Man with his MAC motors, Infineon programmable controllers and CellMan batteries.
The CST is a nice motor. The guy who I sent five of them to said they are better designed than the BPM. I like it so far.
We recommend classic European bikes (think the old Raleigh DL types) where a motor the size of these three still could look like a drum brake or generator, but a BPM is just too big; looks out of place. Also, high power on a curved fork is a worry. Riders who have never experienced the silky smoothness of a classic Euro Columbus Thron steel bike with a curved tapered steel fork will be happy bolting a massive motor on the front of a MTB or a straight-forked, rigid aluminium frame that is then softened with energy absorbing shock absorbers that add weight and complexity. That's not our audience, so for us, the problem with all three of the motors we tested is their lack of grunt. For enthusiasts not worried or governed by laws, best to go with a 500W Mac, 48 volt and two torque arms. For our audience, we have not yet found a hill-flattening front motor acceptable for a classic Euro 3-speed city bike.
At this point we are reserving judgement on all front motors until we get to try out the new BBS mid-motor that fits on the bottom bracket; the test unit should be here in about 4-6 weeks. I was impressed with the one I tried out in China, but it was on level ground on a bitter cold day, so I did not give it a proper test. If the BBS gives good power to the chain, and does not have other problems, then we may abandon front motors entirely and recommend only the BBS for internal rear hub bikes and the CST on 7,8,9 speed dérailleur bikes for folks looking for street-legal motors in restrictive countries like EU, NZ, AU, etc. In the USA or for off-road, the enthusiast wants more power, and for them we recommend Paul, Cell Man with his MAC motors, Infineon programmable controllers and CellMan batteries.
The CST is a nice motor. The guy who I sent five of them to said they are better designed than the BPM. I like it so far.
motomech
10 MW
Hi,
It seems to me that you are over-looking the obvious approach to achive an aesthetically pleasing, yet capable E-conversion for a "classic" bicycle, namely 2WD using two mini-motors.
I have been playing around with various combos and how this type of conversion might be implimented in various "lash-ups"for a while now(linked below), While D8veh and Nader have built some beautiful examples using the MTB patform.
Imagine this conversion applied to a "classic European bikes" you prefer;
D8veh's Rocky Mountain with dual Cute "201's"
It seems to me that you are over-looking the obvious approach to achive an aesthetically pleasing, yet capable E-conversion for a "classic" bicycle, namely 2WD using two mini-motors.
I have been playing around with various combos and how this type of conversion might be implimented in various "lash-ups"for a while now(linked below), While D8veh and Nader have built some beautiful examples using the MTB patform.
Imagine this conversion applied to a "classic European bikes" you prefer;
D8veh's Rocky Mountain with dual Cute "201's"
