New Crystalyte 5403 Review by Doc

Allex .You are totally right its not about the speed it is the torque that tends the axle to twist. But for phase wire replacing the silicone insulation with shrink tubes I dont know if they can handle heat.....as it shrinks rapidly by applying less heat....have you tested this? Ill just try 12ga if I got the same power I will stick with it, if it turns out less power I will replace it with 10ga....did you also replace phase wire in your crystalyte controller?
 
Or... you can use some thinned copper braid strip!!

I have recovered these from old 2010 Zero battery.

I tested them at 100A and measured the voltage drop and compared with the original 10 AWG turnigy and these strap have less resistance ( I would sai about gauge 9 equivalent)

These fit perfectly in an axel and leave room for temp sensor and hall wiring!.. and everything WITHOUT the need of compressing any wires to fit to the bearing I.D.!!

I have used shrink tubing around each but in fact it could be only the strap of the middle that have shring and the one on the tup and on the bottom could be just surrounded with the shrink tube that envelope all 3 strap together, reducing the overall thickness!!

Here is some pics i took for the exemple!

These strap can then be crimped/soldered to a 8 or 10 AWG wire on the exit of the axel...

Doc
 

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splitfire said:
Allex .You are totally right its not about the speed it is the torque that tends the axle to twist. But for phase wire replacing the silicone insulation with shrink tubes I dont know if they can handle heat.....as it shrinks rapidly by applying less heat....have you tested this? Ill just try 12ga if I got the same power I will stick with it, if it turns out less power I will replace it with 10ga....did you also replace phase wire in your crystalyte controller?


I can say that inside my 5304, the solder between the winding and the phase wires have melted and splashed all inside the motor but they was wraped with shrink tube!! and the shrink tube was still intact!!

so the solder melting temp can be tolerated by the heat shrink ! it dont born or crack!!

Doc
 
Alexx if you dont mind what mods have you done on your stealth bomber? Do you have the mk1 or mk2? Is the 72v 50a controller and cycle analyst capable of handling 24s 100v lipo
 
Thanks doctorbass. That info is very well explained and detailed. I dont think I can find that flat strip wire with braded copper on it.... I will try to use shrink tube or double it on each phase wire still thinner than silicone skin. And wrap altogether 4 wires including hall sensor with shrink tube
 
It's not flat strip wire with braided copper on it, it's just flat braided copper. ;)

It's actually braided wire in a tube; if you look at various kinds of shielded multi-wire cable, you'll find this type of covering over them under their outer insulation jacket. You can strip it off of those cables, flatten it, and use it for this mod.

(I've done this to make interconnects for cells in a pack before, crimping that braid into the eyelets that bolted to the cells).
 
Splitfire, check my build thread for more info about the bike. http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=62650 It is 2013model so I guess one of the newer, the controller is rated at 100V. Regarding the phase cables and heat shrink. If you choose the right size for your power output the cables will not even get warm. This is the whole Idea of swapping them out. To get higher current flow without getting them that hot that insulation starts to melt. Heatshrink works great! I did not replace wires on the controller, I swapped out the old Crystalyte to a Max-e controller. It is like going from a 1995 mobile phone to a modern smartphone.

Doc, those flat wires are awesome! I see that your axle is a bit twisted, haha!
 
I did my shrink tubes. Now I gotta problem I didnt put a mark which one is blue yellow and green can it be altered or do I really need to follow the color code of the phase wire. Or it doesnt matter what color you hook up to controller
 
Here's my [successful] attempt:

p4hcmIf.jpg


What you see here are 8 awg silicone cables.
I just placed my stator in to vice on drill press and drilled some extra holes in the axle. Metal is very soft and easy to work on. Then smoothed out all edges with dremel.
 
circuit said:
Here's my [successful] attempt:

p4hcmIf.jpg


What you see here are 8 awg silicone cables.
I just placed my stator in to vice on drill press and drilled some extra holes in the axle. Metal is very soft and easy to work on. Then smoothed out all edges with dremel.


Nice Job circuit!

But hey.. how will you avoid the 3rd 8 gauge wire to not be squeeded on teh dropout? I emean it is not aligned with the exit slit of the dropout same as the 2 other wires...
 
great job!

my 540x came with completely wrong axle :(

would any of you be able to get me one of those axles? happy to pay for those extra improvements with thicker wires. Just shame that such great motor is sittng with no use in the basement.

I have been using 5403 that has good axle. i really love it. Never had any problem, no overheating, max speed in heavy velomobile 90KMH, running at 100v lipos.
 
wojtek said:
great job!

my 540x came with completely wrong axle :(

would any of you be able to get me one of those axles? happy to pay for those extra improvements with thicker wires. Just shame that such great motor is sittng with no use in the basement.

I have been using 5403 that has good axle. i really love it. Never had any problem, no overheating, max speed in heavy velomobile 90KMH, running at 100v lipos.


I would suggest contacting Kenny at Crystalyte he will be able to hep you for sure!

Doc
 
I was wandering, what about using solid copper flat bar? Sure it will be harder to terminate but it would give most copper will of all :D
 
he sent me a replacement axle that was wrong size again :(
and not heard from him since that..

[/quote]


I would suggest contacting Kenny at Crystalyte he will be able to hep you for sure!

Doc[/quote]
 
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