New Crystalyte Motor series (HT35 / HS35 and HT24 / HS24)

MAGICPIE3FOCUSPOWER said:
Does anyone knows what is causing the wobble problem > side covers or the axle?
Click to expand...

Both, and sometimes the runner as well.

The covers are fixed to the runner with 9 flat head screws M4 x 10. The thread's PCD (pitch circle diameter) in the runner housing is in most cases not drilled/tapped concentrical. You notice that if you rotate the cover and not lining it up with its original position.
Now if you have a side cover which fit is a little too loose, it will be pulled off centre (if you can get your screws to grab the threads at all).

Now you have 3 factors contributing to wobble:
  • the stator is not pressed 90 degrees onto the axle
    the bearing seats/runner fitting surface/shoulder not machined in the same machine setup
    the runner threads not concentric

I actually have designed a new axle and a side cover machining jig (for a lathe) to sort these things out and selling axle/side cover pair kits as exchange parts some time ago, but found that for most people the kit was too expensive, so I thrashed the project.
 
I don't see how the stators fit on the axle contributes to any wobble.

Also a bent axle cant contribute to a wobble, it can cause an out of align wheel but as it doesn't rotate it wont cause a wobble, it all stems from the side covers and magnet backing ring machining and alignment, and or the rim/wheel build.
 
Tench said:
I don't see how the stators fit on the axle contributes to any wobble.
Click to expand...

Yes, of course you are right :oops: .
What I meant was one cause of the grinding noise you can hear in a particular position when a motor wobbles.

On the other hand, if there is a loose fit between bearing and cover, or between bearing and axle AND the windings touch the cover in one spot, THEN the stator (windings) could 'push' the motor housing over to one side :wink: ...

Good news is that this condition won't last for too long :mrgreen:
 
Thanks for the replies! 8) 8)

So the good news is I can use my old stator, because it is painted with urethene.
And I am now lazy to paint the new motor.... 8)

Also what is effecting the high current; the magnets or the windings?
I am asking this, because the motor is now using more juice when riding.

Thank you!

I was thinking about the axle causing wobble problem.
Imagine the axle is bend, so covers bearings are not 100% opposite eaxch other. Can this problem causing a wobble?
 
What's a runner ?
Snice it's running and been apart twice I'm going to leave it. I will take it apart look again for a rub spot. Then maybe paint then run it take apart and look for a mark. I will look for bearing seating and if the stator is seated on the axle. Also see if I can get chuck up in a lathe. Can it be chuck up with the wires and the cover on the wire ?
 
I think the runner is the part where you laced the rim.

I have been trying using the old stator with new covers and runner.
But too bad the wobble is still (too big).

So I have installed complete a new motor and the wobble problem is less, I can live with that.

The old motor:
I have also noticed at the disc side, the axle is wearing out, you can press/install the cover easy with hands....
 
You can take the side cover of over the wires without removing the connectors, unclip the 3 andersons so they are all singles, then fold one down the side of the wires bending it over 3" from the end, do another at 2" from the end and then the other as close to the Anderson as possible, placing them all alongside the wiring and in line with each other rather than side by side, the whole lot will now fit through the side cover and bearing. Then you can bundle the wiring up and tape it safely so you can mount the axle and stator between centres to check it is straight and true. I have replaced the axles in a few of these now and left all the original connectors intact.
 
How do the orginal hall sensors perform, do they last long?

Normally I replaced them directly when taking the motor out the box.
But now I don't have any Honeywell hall sensors spare...... :cry:

Also where can I buy a new spare axle?
And how much will it costs?
 
What a crappy axle!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have just pressed out the old axle and the axle with thread surface is just bended :shock:
Also the new motor didn't have any align (guide) pin for pressing in the axle :shock:

I think these will be my last HS/HT motors....

Hmm quality control.........
 
Yep, you really see how soft they are when you push them out. Perfectly adequate for their intended use but not at the power levels and off road use we put them through!! I have even pushed them on the 17mm dia section when the threaded part has broken off and they still mushroom up! The later motors seem to have a machining fault on the axle, the key groove is on the wrong side, it should be opposite the wiring channel, early ones where and did have a key. I have never heard of one slipping, but the key gives peace of mind.
I have made several new spindles for myself and others that have broken them, I use EN24T which is a very tough steel and put the keyway where it should be so a key can be installed.

These axles are all modified in some way, top one is for a 40 series with 3/4 unf threads, next 2 are 35 series axles, one extended and thread size increased to M14, the bottom one is my own, made in Titanium and fits in clamps, no nuts. And all of them have the journal size increased to 3/4" and bearings swapped for 6203 3/4 2rs sealed bearings.

P1000800_zpsa4dbfc6b.jpg
 
Wooww that's really look good and quality!

You should sell them...... 8) 8)
O I didn't noticed the newer motor has a misplaced guide key.
I will a look for it.... :evil:

Also how did you press out the motor?
 
MAGICPIE3FOCUSPOWER said:
Wooww that's really look good and quality!

You should sell them...... 8) 8)
Click to expand...

I have been selling them, either with modifications to the users spec or as a direct replacement.

I was considering spending a bit more on a cnc batch to get unit costs down to make them cheaper. The problem is fitting them is not a simple diy task either!
 
Thanks!

How much is a axle for HS/HT motor?

Also what do you mean by fitting >>> pressing out and in the axle?

How did you press the axle out?

Fail methode:

Just using the motor/windings as support and tried to press out the axle.
The runner support part ( black part with holes) almost bend :mrgreen:
Hopefully it is still straight, otherise can I throw the whole motor in the bin.... :mrgreen:

Good way to do:

Using a metal tube and support the part where you press in/out the axle.
This way the runner support part doesn't bent.
 
Yes I use heavy tubes made to measure and a very large milling machine as a monster flypress. You can do them with a big at least 4" dia copper mallet but you still need the tubes, 2 pairs of hands and a very solid machine bed to work on.
 
Now that I've done most of the suggested mods for my HT3525 (removed ring, upgraded phase wires, holes in sidecover, thermocouple, new halls, etc) in this thread and upped the power - now I've started a cascade of spoke failures. :(

According to the ebikes.ca 'Spoke Calculator' I need 168.5mm spokes for a 26" rim. How do I deal with that last ".5mm" when ordering? Will a 168mm spoke work - or should I order a 169?

Additionally, let's talk washers. My current spokes are 2mm outer diameter (so 14awg). Is a normal m2 washer what everyone is running? The holes in my hubmotor are >3mm and taper out to a countersink.

Lastly, any suggested USA vendors for spokes?
 
half a mm doesn't make a difference. you can order the length you like or is easier to find (if not made specially for you). i would take 169mm spokes and if they really are too long (what i don't think) you can file away a bit in a second with eg. an angle grinder.
i can't provide a us source, but i ordered my spokes from UK based Alan Raeburn catsnapperwheels@gmail.com who has a great reputation here. i can fully recommend him, quality and price wise.
 
I think the crown was slightly different flange design; here's an image off the Crystalyte website
http://www.crystalyte.com/The Crown.htm
1707882299686.png


Regarding the motor posted by Kiwi in FL, some of them have the winding written on teh stator supports inside the motor. If it's open for that, you can also then measure the width of magnets/stator to tell which one of those it is.

The shape of the outside looks like the UFO series
http://www.crystalyte.com/UFO3540 series.htm
1707882500032.png
 
amberwolf said:
I think the crown was slightly different flange design; here's an image off the Crystalyte website
http://www.crystalyte.com/The Crown.htm
View attachment 347531


Regarding the motor posted by Kiwi in FL, some of them have the winding written on teh stator supports inside the motor. If it's open for that, you can also then measure the width of magnets/stator to tell which one of those it is.

The shape of the outside looks like the UFO series
http://www.crystalyte.com/UFO3540 series.htm
View attachment 347532
Click to expand...

I'm talking to Crystayte right now BTW they might make a thin rear hub motor for bromptons
 
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