New Ebike user (bought HappyRun G60 and Amyet g60)

[shipebike]

Hey All,

I'm completely new to the EBIKE world. I'm a computer/car guy. If this is the wrong place I apologize.

I bought two bikes (both 48V bikes).

Happy Run G60 - Great adjustable rear and front suspension. Aluminum front fork. Hydraulic brakes. Sexy frame/design. (weak motor and controller).
Amyet G60 - Fast and torquey, way faster (weaker suspension/fork/brakes). Lower price. Awesome support.

Both have positives and negatives.

I wanted to make the Happy Run have more torque or should I just use it as is?
I was entertaining buying a random 1500W hub motor (or suggested one), with a supporting controller (though the company I have found the controller doesn't look like it has all the same PIG tails (though I could directly butt connector etc..).

Is it as easy as swapping the motor/wheel and controller?
I was told the happy run controller is good for 800W.
I'm not looking for any more top speed, just more torque/throttle (all around and uphill. like the amyet g60 does).

I've attached photos of both bikes motor part numbers and controllers.

Thanks for any help/direction.

 

[amberwolf]

How much more torque do you need than you already have? 110%? 150%? 300%? etc.

If you need a lot more than the system will give you, you'll probably end up replacing everything on the bike, including the motor mounting hardware on the frame, and would be better off building a bike from scratch that does what you want, and leaving these intact to sell to fund the new project.

If you only need the torque momentarily now and then, the existing motor will probably handle significantly more power in short bursts. If they're geared motors then the gearing and clutch are the weak points that may fail just from the torque.

More torque requires more current to the motor, so the battery and controller both have to be able to supply this. So replacing the controller (and it's display), assumign the battery can handle it, with one that can supply the motor with more than the worst-case current draw, would do the job.

If the batteries on the bikes don't sag in voltage when testing under your worst case loads where more torque would help you, then they may support a bigger controller. If they sag now, sag will be worse under higher loads, usually worse-than-linearly as the load increases, and they'll heat up more inside, and be mroe stressed.

The BMS in the battery is also probably only designed to handle the current the existing sytem would draw, so even if the cells could handle it, the BMS may not be able to. If it's well designed (not very common) it'll turn off when current is exceeded. Otherwise it tends to just blow the FETs up, often in a way that leaves the battery permanently turned on, even when it's in some state that would make that unsafe (could damage the cells).


Note that changing parts will almost certainly mean changing connectors / wiring to match the parts you already have, or vice-versa. Even if a connector looks identical, don't just plug it in unless you are *sure* the wiring matches, or you can destroy both parts the connectors go to (and potentially even other parts on the bike that those are connected to). If there is no documentation for the parts clearly showing their actual pin functions, from the bike manufacturer and the new-part manufacturer, it is safest to trace out the wiring from old part to it's connector, and new part to it's connector, to make sure the wires inside the part go to the same pins on the connector. (and if not, you then know what they should be so you can change it).



Another option if you only need one working bike is to use a front fork that will hold the rear motor (some fat tire forks can do this), and take the entire system off of one of the bikes, and install it on the other along with the existing one. No futzing around with connectors, cabling, compatibility, etc because it's all a known complete working system.

Disadvantage is it's heavier by whatever the battery and motor weigh, but the advantage is you already have everything except maybe a fork.

Complete independent 2WD gives you the advantage of traction choice under power, if you're riding using independent throttles (rather than PAS or single throttle), and of redundancy in that a failure in one system doens't leave you stranded or pedalling on your own. You also have potentially twice the range with two batteries, assuming both bikes have the same range, as long as you are still using the same average amount of power (same wh/mile) with two systems vs one.

 

[nicobie]

While Amberwolf is correct, I think I'd just sell the current bike and then build one from scratch using a used bike with a new hub motor and controller sized to do what you want performance wise. A spec ebike will most likely cost about what you can get for your old one.

 

[amberwolf]

While Amberwolf is correct, I think I'd just sell the current bike and then build one from scratch using a used bike with a new hub motor and controller sized to do what you want performance wise.

FWIW, that's more or less the first suggestion in my list.

 

[nicobie]

FWIW, that's more or less the first suggestion in my list.

Yea, I know. I was just giving a short version for the newbie

 

[E-HP]

I wanted to make the Happy Run have more torque or should I just use it as is?

It all starts with the battery, and based on the minimal information/specs, I’d assume that both are built with generic Chinese cells. So, based on that information, it appears that the battery on the torquier bike is more capable, and will have less sag. If you can swap batteries, that could provide some insights, and may come with a performance boost.

Since the two controllers are different brands, the ratings can’t really be compared. Some use continuous, some peak (max), and it could describe a rating or a limit. So, you don’t know where the limiting factor is on the slower bike. It could be the motor or controller, or it could also be the battery, which is easy and free to test.

Personally I would just use the bikes as is. Bonus if swapping the battery helps.

 

[shipebike]

Holy shit, thanks for all this info/replies.

I just wanted to get a little more get go off the line and up hills (like the amyet does). I dont need any more top speed or higher speed, just more torque/speed down low. (

They both are generic Chinese cells.

I swear I tried the amyet battery in my happyrun and it was the same (but now Im wondering if I did). I will give that a try.


Happyrun battery info:
Lithium-ion Battery Pack for
Electric Scooters
Model: HR-G60
Nominal Voltage: 48v
Rated Capacity: 18Ah.864Wh
Charging voltage: 54.6
Date of Manufacture: 11/2023

Amyet battery info:
Rechargeable Li-ion battery pack
Model VLP 21700-13S4P
Voltage: 48Vdc
Capacity:20.0Ah
Power: 960.0Wh
Limited charging voltage: 54.6

 

[shipebike]

Okay just tried the amyet battery and definitely the same.

 

[999zip999]

No big deal just use it as it is. How fast you want to go ? It can get heavy. I looked it up for the price you paid just use it.
You should ask this before you bought the bike but sometimes there's a speed limiting wire on the controller it's a white wire with a jst two pin connector but there's only one wire if you disconnect that connector you could possibly go faster. If your controller or model has this speed limiter hooked up

 

[willstealthy]

I have the same controller on my bike as your happy run, there is a current setting you might be able to do if you can get into the display.. I thinks it's is P14 current limit. When I first got the bike it was set for 13amps and 20amps was max I could set it to.

 

[shipebike]

I can use it as-is, just a tinker ( I do plenty of wiring with cars). I figured they were similar clones and should be able to get a similar feel/ride. Maybe not (thats okay).

@willstealthy Im curious about this. Im doing some searching for P14 and how to get into that mode on this bike (unsuccessful yet if you have any direction there). Though I just started looking. When you max'd it out, did you notice more acceleration and speed? or one/other?

@999zip999 I dont really want a faster top speed, just faster acceleration. Sometimes you floor it from a dead stop and it putters a second, while the amyet just rips no matter what. Im going to look more into the white wire suggestion.

I bought the happyrun, but it was too big for my step daughter (and it had some issues too) so I got the amyet g60 (slightly smaller) and I got stuck with the happy run (Its a good looking bike to me, the suspension is all adjustable, hydraulic brakes DYISLAND and they have been great support ) just wanted a little more acceleration. Different circumstances I might of posted first or researched more if it was for my fat ass.

 

[shipebike]

Im not quite sure what happened, Ive been holding combos of buttons to try and get into that programming mode/options but nothing worked or changed anything, but now the throttle is not doing anything lol

bleh, and I will call it a night.

seems to work if you pedal but then after braking it stops working again.

 

[shipebike]

okay I fixed that, I think by holding the S button on the throttle and the left blinker during boot up. Im wondeirng if that moved it from PAS 0 to PAS 1 and if so if there is a PAS 2+ that might give me more torque? ha I can dream.

Least its working again.

 

[gromike]

There is only one way to fix a cheap bike -- a new bike! You can do it piece by piece, or all at once.
Other than that, just ride and enjoy your bikes.

 

[shipebike]

Sure, where should I be looking for the best supported kits?

If I wanted a 1500W-2000W 20 x 4 hub motor, with nice controller, 48v (or whatever is recommended best for the motor/controller). Im happy with 20-30mph top speed, 20-30 miles distance is fine. Id just like a bit or torque/acceleration.

I would gut the happy run, and use the frame/suspension, brakes.

 

[2old]

Are you sure that you can't program the HR for 28-30 mph? Sometimes depressing the + & - PAS buttons open the menu. If this doesn't help, a 52V battery should increase your speed by a couple of MPH.

 

[shipebike]

The HR gets 28-30mph top speed.

I just want more torque and acceleration not top speed

The amyet is way more fun with that torque. They both max out at the same top speeds.

There are no + and - in the HR. It's only the S button which is similar it goes through 1-3 modes with different PAS top speeds.

I feel like if I could get the HR P14 changed it might give it a little more get go

 

[shipebike]

The HR you can like hold your feet down. Squeeze your legs. Full throttle and the bike will barely move it not at all. With the amyet there's no chance I can hold it in place. Something with the HR is killing it or making it weak with any resistance.

 

[willstealthy]

What display are you running, there are slso settings for PAS sensitivity. You have to get into the program mode, on mine it's the + and- key at the same time..will work with m5, s900, s866 type displays.there is also a setting P9 which is zero start or non zero start..which maybe causing your throttle issue. When I changed the current settings from 12 to 20amps, maybe there was a slight change but I wasn't trying to fix a tourqe issue but wanted my setting correctly. Why not go into the display on the bike with tourqe if you can and see what difference is in the settings. I know you said you don't have e the + or - settings... usually amps give you tourque and one of your controller does 25amps max and the HR 21amps...maybe it's the 4 amps that's giving you more tourque...here is a link for more info and just some ideas.
Ebike Display Settings: A Comprehensive Guide

 

[shipebike]

Thanks for all that. The screen I have doesn't seem to be in any videos or documentation. One video the guy is wiring up this screen but nothing on those program modes.. I did comment for him.

This screen, the throttle S button and the headlight/blinkers/horn module.

I will definitely keep poking around.

 

[willstealthy]

Thanks for all that. The screen I have doesn't seem to be in any videos or documentation. One video the guy is wiring up this screen but nothing on those program modes.. I did comment for him.

This screen, the throttle S button and the headlight/blinkers/horn module.

I will definitely keep poking around.

Here is more information on a happy run and maybe contact the person for programming mode.

Happyrun G50 - maxspeed only 16 MPH

Happyrun G50 - maxspeed only 16 MPH

Hi, I have bought an Happyrun G50 (website Tomtop.com, Europe) and received it some days ago. Tried it, and love the bike but it only go maximum 16 MPH with a fully charged battery and when I have position 3 (max) on the throttle?! Do You know or think this product is configure for Europe use...

ebikesforum.com

 

[shipebike]

Great, find. Ive messaged him.

 

[shipebike]

Technically, if I get another screen (one of the ones you mentioned or that is detailed, and a +,-, M, module I may be able to configure the P1-15~ program options? right? or am I wrong in thinking that?

 

[Horschack]

FWIW, that's more or less the first suggestion in my list.

Where did you find the Sinz Spider cranks? I found a set but say they are BMX, but look like the ones on your pictures. Ids tgis correct? And were you able to use the timing chain ring that was on your tandem originally or did you need to get a bmx chain ring?4

 

[amberwolf]

FWIW, that's more or less the first suggestion in my list.

Where did you find the Sinz Spider cranks? I found a set but say they are BMX, but look like the ones on your pictures. Ids tgis correct? And were you able to use the timing chain ring that was on your tandem originally or did you need to get a bmx chain ring?

Sorry, but I don't have any cranks like that, nor do I have a tandem, so I don't know what you're asking about.

There aren't even any cranks like that, or tandems, in this thread, by anyone.