new eZip motor

[latecurtis]

View attachment 4


Well. I guess it is time to see what the Currie and the 750 watt 36 volt gear reduction motor is capable of at 50 volts and 1,000 watts.

The beginning of the video will show the front brakes in action where I slowed down quickly from 25 mph and turned right on the corner where the car was going to pull out. Also it was a 15 mph school zone so should not have done it there anyway. The second half of the video was Chrysler av. on my way to the grocery store where I got 27 or 28 mph. I will have to watch it again myself.

The second video shows how the chain is perfect. Not too tight and not too loose.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J7tgf1f6FYc&feature=youtu.be


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=se3c1QJWkF8&feature=youtu.be

Also The LiPo packs seen to have held up well under the full throttle conditions , Especially since one is an 8.0 - 6S pack and the other a 10.0 - 6S pack. There was very little difference in voltage after the run as you can see.

I see a lot of videos and information regarding puffed up LiPo packs and packs with a bad cell. Most of the time they do NOT recommend removing a puffed up pack but can remove a low or unstable cell. I am sure I told all of you that I have both problems as the 8.0 - 6S LiPo as well as the 10.0 - 6S LiPo were both purchased from e bay in pairs. The puffed up 10.0 - 6S pack is still out in the garage inside a dryer where it has sat for over a year now I think and the 8.0 - 6S pack is on the front porch in a cash box. It has a very unstable cell. I do not know of anyone who can remove the bad cells, and install 5S balance plugs.

Also it is not legal to ship a puffed up pack. I would love to have it done but do not want to attempt it myself. Any suggestions on that as I would rather get my $$$ worth than having a LiPo shoot. Another good reason NOT to shoot the puffed up pack is the carbon monoxide gas which would escape into the environment. I would need a pail of salt water below it and tie the power connectors to a long string so when it catches on fire I can cut the string and it will fall in the pail. (see attachment below). Please let me know if it will work or if it is possible to safely remove the bad cell. What do I do with it ?


Basically until I get the spoke fixed on the hub motor and the wheel trued the Currie is my best ride. Also the Currie weighs at least 30 pounds less than the Schwinn. The Schwinn is a bear hauling up and down the stairs. Thanks.

PS. I started a new post as I need information on sprockets for the 1,800 watt brushless motor so I can go 50 mph and can't seem to get the answers here. The name of the post is help with wheel and motor sprockets if anyone is interested. Thanks.


LC out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. 40 mph ??? Mabye 37 mph.



The 48 volt 1,800 watt 4,500 rpm brushless motor will be overgeared by ay least 20 mph at it's rated 48 volts with a 24" wheel and 60 tooth spoke sprocket and 11 tooth motor sprocket.

However at 24 volts and 900 watts gearing is for 30 mph and only overgeared by 2 mph.

That is very interesting and since I have a 24" bike I will be experimenting with a 60 tooth spoke sprocket. I will try it on a 24" rear wheel first to see what top speed will be. If the top speed is less than 37 mph I will switch the spoke sprocket to a 20" wheel.

Maybe not

I may not have the room to mount the motor on the back with a 24" tire. that is ok though as I already have a 24" cargo bike with a 24" wheel on the front and 20' wheel on the back with a 60 tooth spoke and 11 tooth motor sprocket. The 24" cargo bike showed 29 mph in the video with a 48 volt 1,000 watt Unite motor at 50 volts of LiPo.

I have a Mongoose 24" bike so can build it the same as the 24" bike only with the 1,800 watt brushless motor and 50 volts of LiPo. it will be my next build. Thanks.

LC out.

PS. I did not really want to build a piece of crap Mongoose so I might take the 24" wheel off the Mongoose and install the 60 tooth spoke sprocket and put it on the back of the Haro V3 and keep the front tire with the disk brake on the front of the Haro. . However if I do not get at least 37 mph out of it then I will be taking the 60 tooth off the 24" wheel and building the 24" Mongoose with the 20" wheel on the back.


As the bottom shows it is only overgeared by about 12 mph instead of 20+ mph with a 20" wheel vs a 24" wheel. Maybe if I could find a 24" bike with disk brakes I could put the 24" forks and wheel on the 26" Haro bike and then run the 20" wheel on the back. I think it would look stupid with a 26" wheel on the front and 20" wheel on the back.

If anyone reads this please let me know what the performance difference should be in top speed and acceleration between a 20" and a 24" wheel with the 1,800 watt motor. Please let me know.

 

[DrkAngel]

.
I would rate the only reasonable advantage to using an external motor is that you have the option of gearing for optimal performance.
Flying in apposition to all reasonability ...
you seem intent on gearing for poor, towards pitiful and wasteful-damaging, (lack of) performance!

............................. Gearing 1800w motor for 60mph vs 25mph = same top speed - 34mph.

ebikes.ca/tools/simulator

Difference being:



60mph geared
max 27lb thrust
@34mph:
4.2 mile range
48% efficiency
Burn up in 2 minutes
vs 8% hill:
14mph
overheat in .3 miles

25mph geared
max 65lb thrust
@34mph:
7.6 mile range
80% efficiency
Burn up never
vs 8% hill:
28mph
overheat in 2.94 miles

Oops!
tested at 220lb bike + rider weight
330lb:
25mph geared vs 8% hill = 25mph
60mph geared vs 8% hill = 0mph

 

[latecurtis]

Ok.

Thank you very much. Now I know better and will not be hooking a 60 tooth spoke sprocket to a 24" wheel.

I do not wish to go only 34 mph with an 1,800 watt motor when I can already go 29 mph with a 1,000 watt motor. That would make no sense at all. Not to mention the damage going up a hill.

If I go with a 20" wheel and the 60 tooth at 48 volts gearing is 49 mph at 1,800 watts which is approx. 11 mph over-geared which is a major improvement from 60 mph which would be over gearing by 22 mph.

My last 3 questions regarding this possible build is would that improvement be enough to achieve at least 37 mph in theory on flat ground according to that graph ?

Also I own a 24 volt brush-less controller I got from Dan. If it is good for 900 watts and I need to go up a steep hill running the bike at 900 watts and 2,250 rpm would be 1/2 of 49 mph or 24.5 mph gearing.

The trickery part is if I were to go up the hill at say 10 mph (NOT FULL THROTTLE) would it make any difference between 48 volts and 24 volts ? You know it should be possible to hook up bullet plugs to both controllers making a swap from 48 volts to 24 volts happen in less than five minutes. I could even bring three 6S batteries with me. Two in series for 12S LiPo and one 6S pack for 24 volts. Please let me know and thanks for posting.

LC out.

 

[DrkAngel]

.
... 49mph

Gearing for 49mph
Still barely hits 34mph
overheats in 2.7miles
struggles to 8mph up hill vs 23mph from 25mph geared
4.1 vs 6.8 mile range

 

[latecurtis]

OK.

It looks good on the graph but let us test that graph with the data we already know from my video I did at 48 volts and 1,000 watts. The 24" cargo bike did 29 mph at 1,000 watts with approx 32.5 mph gearing.

This has been proven to be true and at 24 volts which I drive it at almost daily it goes up most hills about 7 mph at 500 watts and 16.5 mph gearing.

Let us see what the graph says and compare it to what I can prove with my videos as I did several with the speedometer in the video.

The Currie is geared for exactly 28 mph at 1,000 watts and did 28 mph in the video. The 24" cargo bike did about the same speed or 29 mph with 32.5 mph gearing also 1,000 watts.

Also the simulator is very confusing. I am not concerned about an 8% incline so the A column is unnecessary for now. Top speed on flat ground is all I am calculating for at this time. see chart on bottom.

I do not wish to waste my $$$ on a motor that only goes five mph faster than what I have. That makes no sense. Also what makes no sense is why 800 watts more would only be good for a five mph increase in speed. it does make sense if it were over-geared by 22 mph but not 11 mph. I would guess the top speed would be 37 mph and not 34 mph.

http://prntscr.com/gunfar

The link above is a bike simulation which states that 1,800 watts = 40 mph. If that is true then it is only over geared by 9 mph.
The bike simulation DA is using is based on hub motors. I do not understand the gear ratio parameter there as hub motors will have a different gear ratio than chain driven motors.

http://prntscr.com/gunkcc

Here is a simulation of the same DA used only with 1800 watts entered manually and the result is 37 mph. I am thinking a different simulation is needed for this. Power in watts. optimum gear ratio for top speed. watts vs speed calculator. then the different gear ratios and the results in top speed. Higher gear ratios than optimum for hills and lower than optimum effect on top speed.

I do not see how the simulator can calculate the effect of over gearing on the flat. It is clear that 1,800 watts = at least 37 mph. What is NOT clear is if it will happen if it is geared for 49 mph. I could achieve a 7.2 to 1 gear ratio which would gear it for exactly 37 mph but would have to go with 8 mm chain. A 72 tooth 8 mm wheel sprocket and a 10 tooth 8 mm motor sprocket. The sprocket bolts on to a freewheel clutch all sold by Electric scooter parts. Do you think 8 mm chain would work ? Please let me know. I do not wish to pay for an expensive custom sprocket almost as large as the wheel. Also I will be giving up on any pedal chain if I go with the 8 mm instead of the spoke sprocket. Thanks.

LC out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Optimal gearing at 36.4mph provides maximum, level travel, speed.

36.4mph

However, running at your 44.4V drops that back down to 34.3 mph

 

[latecurtis]

OK.

I got it now.

Top speed depends on the condition of the 12S or 6S LiPo pack. The gearing plays a secondary part in the outcome..

Voltage SAG is something I have witnessed several times with LiPo. 3.4 volts is the maximum recommended discharge but I usually never run my packs below 3.7 volts. However the difference in power especially up little hills becomes increasingly notable with age and they tend to slow down around 3.8 volts. When the cargo bike runs slower than usual up a little hill I measure the voltage with one of my balancers and see 3.7V to 3.74V when I get home.

The LiPos have not been run low but voltage SAG is definitely the culprit. NEW fully charged 12S LiPo batteries are 50 volts. NOT 44V. Sag should be greater than 48 volts. Top speed for that motor should be greater than 37 mph with 37 mph gearing.

With 49 mph gearing it could drop to 35 mph. 6 mph difference between the 1,000 watt Unite motor and a 1,800 watt brush less motor is not worth the $$$$.

Everything I have learned and relearned here in the last 18 months to two years have taught me that two motors and controllers on an e bike are better than one. Without gear reduction two motors front and back and all wheel drive will work better than rear wheel and front wheel drive.

My next videos will be of my dual motor build. it is geared for 20 mph and two separate 24 volt controllers power the bike. I would definitely like to see that configuration represented on that simulator accurately.

We all know I will build a 40+ mph e bike soon. Thanks for posting.

LC out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Several times I, and others(?), have tried to explain to you the voltage rating of LiPo.
Volt rating is the average voltage output over the full "typical" output discharge.

12s usually rated at 44.4V not 50.4!

At minimal discharge rate, average discharging voltage is about 3.70V = 44.4V
More typical discharge rate looks to be an average discharging voltage of 3.40V = 40.8V ... not 50.4V!

If you want 48V LiPo you need 13s LiPo (13 x 3.7V = 48.1V) or with the newer deeper discharging cells, 14s LiPo (14 x 3.5V = 49V)

Fortunately, with your propensity for small, low voltage battery packs, your "proper" (with LVC protection) controllers prevent you from destroying your LiPo.
48V controller has ~40V cutoff, so at 12s, 44.4V cells will not discharge voltage below an average 3.33V, and rebound above 3.7V actual discharge, well above their designed safety point.
Same for 24V controller using 6s 22.2V LiPo.

Almost of a certainty, you have been destroying your LiPo packs using your pot controllers - with no LVC protection!
One, even slightly less capacity cell will quickly hit 0V and it's chemical integrity will collapse causing a gas release (puffed cell), when you try to limp home on an "empty" pack. (Various Lithium cells formulations are effectively "empty" at 3.6V, 3.4V or 3.2V . See - Capacity Mapping

Discharge tests show minimal capacity below a final capacity bulge.
3.6V-3.7V capacity might be greater than 0.0V-3.6V.
Below a certain voltage, cells can hit 0V very quickly.

 

[latecurtis]

OK.

Let me see if this is right then.

Both the 24" cargo bike and the Currie have been hooked up to 12S LiPo or 44.4 volts. In either case the motor output was significantly less than 48 volts you are claiming even though the volt meter read 50.2 volts and the videos were done within a couple blocks of the house so had very little discharge time before the videos. The 24" bike did 29 mph in the video and the Currie did 28 mph. Note gearing at 48 volts is not the same. The 24" cargo bike is geared for 32.5 mph at 3,000 rpms with the 60 tooth spoke sprocket and the 11 tooth motor sprocket. The Currie with the gear reduction motor is geared lower at almost exactly 28 mph.

Lets see if this makes some sense.

1,000 watts / 48 = 20.83 watts * 44.4 = 925 watts. 925 watts = approx. 28 to 29 mph. Yes. It does make sense.

1,800 watts / 48 = 37.5 * 44.4 = 1,665 watts.

1,665 - 925 = 740 watts

It also makes sense that an additional 800 watts should be good for at least 8 mph in top speed. The 1,800 watt brush-less motor should do at minimum 35 mph. Maybe 36 mph for a few seconds. I will need to gear it for 37 mph though instead of 49 mph or I will not exceed 34 mph. That makes sense I guess. Not sure what to do though. It may not be worth building as a 1,000 Unite motor on the back and a second on the front for 2,000 watts would hit at least 38 mph on the flat.

I am not sure if I want to order the 1,800 watt motor now or two Unite 1,000 watt 48 volt motors. Now I am confused.

LC out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Monitor battery voltage during throttle use to get some reasonable estimate.
8Ah battery at 50V might sag to 40V during full throttle use ... ?

 

[latecurtis]

Yes.

It makes sense. Also none of my LiPo batteries are new.

And the 1,800 watt motor will draw more amps so sag will be greater than a 1,000 watt motor. That could keep me from reaching 35 mph.

Like I said I have five e bikes and spending $200 or more to build #6 to go five or six mph faster makes no sense. If I can't reach at least 40 mph it is not worth spending another dime. Thanks.

LC out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. 40 mph.

Two 1,000 watt unite motors. One front and one rear. two 48 volt Chinese controllers. single thumb throttle

Each with a 60 tooth spoke and 11 tooth motor sprocket.

gearing = 40 mph and total power = 2,000 watts.

Each motor will have it's own 44.4 volt supply so sag will be reduced.



Thanks.

LC out.

 

[latecurtis]

no $$$$$$$

broke
busted.
broke as a joke

not enough $$$ to pay attention.

lol

tune in in a few months for new episodes of as the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. lol

 

[DAND214]

no $$$$$$$

broke
busted.
broke as a joke

not enough $$$ to pay attention.

lol

tune in in a few months for new episodes of as the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. lol

Attention? I don't get a bill for that.
I get you LC, money is tight in many places. Keep posting even if it's videos of your rides or just what you are fixing.

Dan

 

[latecurtis]

I want to order another 48V controller next month and take the one off of the Currie and swap the two 24V controllers on the dual motor cargo bike as then gearing would be for approx 40 mph and total power would be 2,000 watts at 48 volts instead of 1,000 watts at 24 volts.

However I realize that is definitely a hair brained idea as even though both brakes work oK safety goes out the window at 40 mph not to mention what would happen if one of the chains did pop off for some reason.

Also the 36V 800 watt motor on the front might hold up at 48 volts for awhile but the 24 volt 500 watt motor on the back would most likely burn out at 48 volts and 1,000 watts.

Then there is the old saying "If it is not broke don't fix it." It may only go 20 mph but at 1,000 watts total and 20 mph gearing it hauls ass up hills better that anything I have and is a perfect back up cargo hauler in case my 24" cargo bike has a flat tire or something. Those are the reasons I am leaving it alone. Thanks.

LC out.

 

[DAND214]

It's good to hear some sense from you, about 40mph and chains. Chains are fine at slow speeds on a bicycle but are just fine at high speeds on a motorcycle that was designed to do that.

Dan

 

[Sunder]

Sorry I've been absent the last month or so. Have been very busy and in Israel for a well deserved holiday. Things are still manic at work, and I still don't feel like I have emough time for hobbies. My electric motorcycle failed a road worthy check due to a leaky front suspension and a brake light switch which is intermittent, so I need to find out why. Corroded or dirty contact, work switch. Who knows.

But it does go to show. This is a "minor" safety check, but a little suspension oil on the brakes, and I run up the back of someone. A faulty brake light and someone runs up the back of me. Its why when electric bikes act more like motorcycles, the law wants them to have motorcycle like safety. As a ebike, nobody every forces you to check your front forks, and you don't even have brake lights.

Anyway, hoping to be back regular in a couple of weeks.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Long winter.

Yes Sunder, I have not posted either much lately as I ran into a money shortage which happens often when one is on a set income. (monthly disability check). Also with five ebikes I do not really need to build any more however would like to as it is something I love to do.

I have been sleeping until 5 or 6 PM most days and start playing Pirates as soon as I wake up until about 10 PM then take a break and go to the store. I have been drinking about 3 or four 24 oz cans at $1.25 each and the ol lady has been smoking cheap pipe tobacco just to get us thru until the first.

Today however I took the 24" cargo bike for a ride across town to refill my blood pressure pills. It seems like every other month I run out on a Sunday and the drug store around the corner closes at 6PM. I have to travel about 5 miles round trip across town. That one the pharmacy closes at 10 PM.

I usually take the Diamondback but I took off the torque arms to put on the Schwinn which I am not riding until I fix the broken spoke. I do not know where to get a replacement spoke for that. If anyone knows where and how to install it please let me know.

I could have taken the Currie which is set up for 44 volts now. I could easily unhook the 48 volt controller and hook back up the variable one but why go thru the trouble when the 24" cargo bike is ready to go with a variable controller for a single 6S pack. The 24" cargo bike goes 15 mph easily at 6S LiPo where the Currie lags behind at 13 mph with 6S LiPo.

It has been awhile since I rode any of my bikes. At least a week maybe more. It felt good even at 15 mph. The Schwinn , Diamondback and the Dual motor 20" cargo bike all sit in my hallway every time I go down stairs. They are collecting dust. If they could speak they would say "please take me for a spin" :lol:

I should at least run the 20" dual motor set up next month. the dual 24 volt controllers are the perfect match for Dan's old packs which need to be run. The Schwinn will run but with a broken spoke the wheel shakes a little and am afraid of more spokes breaking. The Diamondback needs a seat as I stole it for the Schwinn so believe it or not the Dual motor set up is now in better shape than the other two and even the brakes work.

It will be a long winter though and I do not plan on being broke all winter so I will be fixing the Schwinn when I find out where to get a replacement spoke. I might as well get like 3 or 4 spokes in case more break. new torque arms and the Diamondback will be ready to go.

Anyway both the 24" cargo bike and the Currie are down on the front porch ready to go and I got the 10.0 - 6S pack as well as the 8.0 - 6S pack and am charging both tonight as I will be hauling beer cans to the store for money. At 5 cents each I will have enough to get me thru the week. I have enough for Monday , Tuesday and Wednesday and the alcoholic who lives downstairs Thursday , Friday and Saturday. Then I have $60 left in the bank to carry me until the first which is Monday.

Maybe I will do a video of the 24" cargo bike taking back cans. :lol: :lol: :lol: Thanks guys for posting.

LC out.

 

[DAND214]

Good hearing you are out riding. All we have is rain and cold now.
On my calendar Monday is the 30th, Tuesday is Halloween and Wednesday is the 1st.

Keep writing and riding. Bottoms up!

Dan

 

[latecurtis]

I took cans back to the store again last night. The chain came loose on the 24" cargo bike on the way there. Also the can machine was broken. I had to leave the cans there and need to go back today. The company which does the cans is separate from the grocery store Hannaford but she put them inside the door where they sort the cans.

The chain was so loose it was not going to make it back and nobody had a hammer to use so I found a broken section of curb where they have their mulch and flowers and flipped the bike upside down and used it to bang the wood brackets forwards tightening the chain.

I went about 5 mph on the way back and walked a few blocks where the hill was and Beetlejuice (the old guy who collects cans came riding up behind me on a 24" Mongoose with a totally bent up rim on the back with no tire. :lol:

We talked for a minute and he had to get going to hustle up two more dollars he said. The dude is a riot. When I got to the flat the bike made it home. I was thinking about putting the 800 watt 20" front wheel on the back and using the Unite 48V 1,000 watt motor for a dual motor build with the 24" frame on the back porch. I decided not as the 1,000 watt motor has been taken apart and repaired. (wires soldered) It may not be wise to push it to its limits.

However the main reason for not wanting to is the fact that the 800 watt Hub motor will not run on 6S LiPo. 36 volts is as low as I can go. The controller will not support 6S I do not believe. I don't know if I tried but I don't think 400 watts would be enough if It did work so I used a hammer to tap the bracket over about 1/4 to 1/3 of an inch and the chain no longer rubs against the tire like it was doing. I tightened all the bolts down real good including the motor bolts.

I tested it by lifting up the back tire but the real test is riding it and it has been raining all day so do not know if I am riding today. I really need a good walk for exercise that I have not been getting lately. When I do ride it I will post a video if it is fixed. Thanks.

LC out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. 37 mph ?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Bicycle-Rear-Wheel-Kit-Conversion-E-Bike-Motor-26-48V-1500W-Motor-Hub/132336967195?epid=1286064734&hash=item1ecfe5de1b:g:b4AAAOSwIINZwtFx


The motor is rated for 34 mph at 48 volts. I am not sure if this motor is any good though. Has anyone ever bought this brand ?

The reason is simple. I want at least 37 mph so will be running it at 60 volts minimum. perhaps 72 volts if it will handle it.

The Haro V3 is the bike I will put it on if I order it and I will be ordering those LIFEPO4 cells. The River ones I posted earlier on the post. I just need to know if I should build a 60 volt pack or a 72 volt.

Please let me know.

LC out.

 

[DAND214]

Most cheap hub motors are much the same. It's the more expensive ones that need special attention. The controller with it are probably only good for a 52v pack or 62 hot off the charger. So your gonna spend all that money to go 35+ mph. what happens when they take it away with a big fine? I've seen where and how you ride on your videos. If you don't get killed first I guarantee they will bust your ass. As I told you before 35+ is fast on a bike and what do you weigh? That's gonna be real hard to stop in a hurry.

The controller might be able to go higher voltage. You will need to see what voltage the capacitors are. If the big ones are more than 63 it's a go.

As for those LiFePo4 batteries, Do you think you will be able to solder them together without burning them up? It takes a lot of skill and patience. You short out one and you might wind up with a lot more.

Your also gonna need a BMS and a charger. You really need a BMS with cheap LiFePo4 cells.


One last thing, don't try going up the big hills without pedaling especially slow. It will over heat, motor or the controller.
Just thought one more. It shows a tire and tube. If so, before you mount it check and be sure it has a rim strip on the rim under the tube. If not you will be getting flats all the time.

Dan

 

[latecurtis]

I need to switch to LIFEPO4 anyway. If I can run them in series without solder like I posted earlier on I will be better off.

I was taking cans back last night and the chain came loose AGAIN. I fixed it to take the last batch of cans back but it is WAY too tight now. To make matters worse I got drunk and forgot to charge the 10.0 pack and went to McDonald;s this morning as it is the first and got money.

The 10.0 pack is finished. I ran it until it was dead as I was too lazy and hung over to walk much. It is below 3.0 volts on most of the cells.

I put it on the charger at 1 amp and went to bed. :lol: :lol:

It is in the window on the porch inside a LiPo pouch and a metal sentry cash box. I did not get woke up by the fire truck and a bunch of smoke so do not believe it popped because it can't catch fire but can produce lots of smoke and get someone to think it is a fire. :lol: I unpluged the cord that goes out there a few hours later when I got up to take a leak.

The only packs left are the ones you sent and the tired 8.0 pack. I will see what the cells are doing but it will probably either puff up and end up out in the dryer or one of the cells will become very unstable or both. That is the MO with these cheap e bay packs.

I don't think any LiPo will stand up to the abuse I can dish out with my chain drives. I was warned and it is true. I am NOT a LiP0 person. I am a battery abuser and will never run SLA again so LIPO4 is my only option now.

If I get the box of Full river cells I may be able to charge them six at a time and just assemble them as needed with a solder-less case or brackets holding them together and enabling the connection like my diagram on previous pages. I can test each cell with the multi-meter and just put them together as needed. Also I can run custom voltage so if my chain is too tight and it wont go up a hill like this morning I can simply put as many in series as I want. I do not really want to mess with a BMS. and limit myself to a set voltage. Thanks.


LC out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Yeah ... but it is not the batteries ... it is you!
Up this page ... warned you again!!!
Told you exactly how and why you are destroying LiPo!

Fortunately, with your propensity for small, low voltage battery packs, your "proper" (with LVC protection) controllers prevent you from destroying your LiPo.
48V controller has ~40V cutoff, so at 12s, 44.4V cells will not discharge voltage below an average 3.33V, and rebound above 3.7V actual discharge, well above their designed safety point.
Same for 24V controller using 6s 22.2V LiPo.

Almost of a certainty, you have been destroying your LiPo packs using your pot controllers - with no LVC protection!
One, even slightly less capacity cell will quickly hit 0V and it's chemical integrity will collapse causing a gas release (puffed cell), when you try to limp home on an "empty" pack. (Various Lithium cells formulations are effectively "empty" at 3.6V, 3.4V or 3.2V . See - Capacity Mapping

Discharge tests show minimal capacity below a final capacity bulge.
3.6V-3.7V capacity might be greater than 0.0V-3.6V.
Below a certain voltage, cells can hit 0V very quickly.

Since you never listen ...
Well, don't know it's even worth while to recommend anything?