new eZip motor

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Anything that will work is what I WANT. DONT CARE ABOUT PEDELING. Just want to get something rolling. We can do the fancy gears and stuff later. thanks latecurtis.
latecurtis 100 W
100 W Posts: 174Joined: Sat Jan 18, 2014 1:53 pmLocation: upstate NY. Albany area

Where did you buy the motor? If you don't open it and return it you will get a refund probably. Then get the correct motor.
otherDoc
 
I called the company that makes the motor. They sent me e mail with information. This may be useful in finding a solution. My friend mike is going to help me mount the motor by building a custom bracket. It will go where the single battery is on the frame above the pedal sprocket. The battery will go on the back frame where the original currie pack was.. I got pictures of the new motor and gear ratios for the application. The gear ratios must be changed to accomidate my bike.Photo0141[1].jpgView attachment 2c2ff6ee13c816f5de3af4462961278c8.jpgab684bfc03689475db0ed850c620d57e.jpg :evil:

The gear ratio im running is 11/64
zero to top speed takes 4/5 seconds with this gear ratio ( about 25mph)
my scooter originaly came fitted with a 11/54 ratio (32mph)which heated the motor quite hot
and the motor was allwas strugleing to find high rpm 2000 at best hence the slower speed and the higher amp load
that is causing the heat
 
It sounds like you are following a new road. It would be a little ez'er to follow a road someone has gone down before.
I think Dr.angle has a good thread to help you.
 
Looks like you will need to add a 180 tooth #25 sprocket to the motor side freewheel to get reasonable use.
 
RE the PM, I have no idea about this stuff. Looks to me like you have the guys who do know posting.
 
Sounds to me he's sending good money after bad.

This new solution might work... or he could be back here in a couple weeks with a new problem.

Latecurtis, is not starting over an option? Money's tight, I get that, but maybe a few weeks of saving, public transport and walking to save up for a basic reliable lipo driven brushless hub would be a lot less complex. As the Chinese manufacturers say (or at least their web sites say they say) "Less parts, less problems".
 
180 tooth #25 sprocket where is it looked all over ebay dont see it Can somebody post it . I will order it. Thanks Latecurtis. also what hardware will I need to hook up the new motor where the old one goes
 
latecurtis said:
180 tooth #25 sprocket where is it looked all over ebay dont see it Can somebody post it . I will order it. Thanks Latecurtis. also what hardware will I need to hook up the new motor where the old one goes
Sorry!
Was being sarcastic ...

Would be what you need for your motor ... but the size and weight of an old sawmill saw blade ... ~24".

Only possibility for using that motor would be with a major intermediate jackshaft.
Similar to a previously posted example.

I don't see any simple or reasonable way to use that motor.
 
The motor mount might look something like the one shown here. Without regarding the size sprocket you'd need.

But latecurtis you really ought to return that motor, get your money back, and start over again like Sunder and others have said.
 
thank you mark5 for that post. I sent an e mail to the guy and am hoping to do something as close as possible to what he did.

Again why would I send a good heavy duty motor back just to get a cheap cheezy bolt in motor that will burn out just like the other one did on a hill. Makes no sense. If I go with a brushless motor like the magic pie I will have to change everything. And who has 300 dollars for such a motor kit and at 80 bucks for 6s 22.5 volt lipos which I would require 4 of them and still not get the range I get with 4 22Ah lead batteries. That sounds like it would cost a lot more money and a lot more work than getting the right size sprocket. Also if the stock currie motor was rated at 470 rpm at 24 volts and 450 watts it must have been running at 705 rpm at 36 volts and 940 rpm if it was able to take 48 volts. The way I see it is the new sprocket should be 3/1 ratio larger than the stock currie sprocket.
The actual part number I don't know. I do know it would be larger than the sprocket I have now but 24" really. That seems like much. I am no expert however and may be wrong so if I am tell me but at least look at the post mark5 posted on a similar motor as mine and similar build. He is claiming 40 mph. and it just so happens I have several cooling fans that look exactly like the one he is using. There DC fans which I pulled out of an ancient server which I scrapped for metal. It was huge about 70 pounds.
Yes when I get my settlement next year for ssi/ssd the lead ass batteries will be given away on this forum to somebody who needs them. Lipo packs will be mounted where the stock currie battery packs go. and a 139 dollar gas motor kit will be installed in the triangle where the lead ass batteries were. there will be a shrowd around it to hide it and I will only be able to run gas out of town on bike trailz. it is not legal here I know that. The new electric motor will be used anywhere a cop may see me. I also must be able to use the pedels to make it legal, so the setup mark5 posted has my vote. I just need to make it happen. I will look into alternate transportation for now until I have the funds to proceed with the install.
Please keep me posted and if you can answer my question on the 3/1 ratio I came up with. I am trying to learn so please be patient if I ask stupid questions. At least I am not trying to build my own controller like I was going to do 3 months ago. I just want a setup like the one mark5 posted.

Thanks latecurtis.
 
Alright, I can see that you're determined. I won't pester you down that track anymore.

But if you have difficulty getting the right sized sprockets, had you considered knocking your voltage down in order to reduce your speed, and hence the size sprocket you need? You could drop it to 24 or even try 12v to see if the RPM gets close enough to need a much smaller reducing ratio.

Also, a 22Ah SLA weighs, what? 13-14lbs? If you ran at 12v, that's at least 25lb off the bike you're saving - less stress on the bike and motor, more range for the same energy. If the range wasn't long enough, you could do 12v, 44ah instead and still save 13lb. Just rotate so you wear the batteries evenly. Just be aware though, dropping the voltage too low will increase the current drawn. At some point, you might draw enough current to burn the motor. Without testing, I couldn't tell you whether 12v is safe, but a quick google shows many people are using the same motor at 24v.
 
latecurtis said:
The way I see it is the new sprocket should be 3/1 ratio larger than the stock currie sprocket.
The actual part number I don't know. I do know it would be larger than the sprocket I have now but 24" really.
Please keep me posted and if you can answer my question on the 3/1 ratio I came up with. I am trying to learn so please be patient if I ask stupid questions.
Thanks latecurtis.
latecurtis said:
file.php
:evil:

The gear ratio im running is 11/64
zero to top speed takes 4/5 seconds with this gear ratio ( about 25mph)
my scooter originaly came fitted with a 11/54 ratio (32mph)which heated the motor quite hot
and the motor was allwas strugleing to find high rpm 2000 at best hence the slower speed and the higher amp load
that is causing the heat
Rear sprocket is 64T on 10"(?) tire.
Same 25mph w/26" tire = (2.6 x 64) 166T sprocket
Would be the same relative size as on the scooter ... towards 24"! ... maybe 20 inches + ...

If you need to climb hills you would want to gear even lower.
20mph top speed = 200T ... possibly 24"+ !!!
 
Got the impression the company that sold latecurtis the motor was talking about gearing for scooter-sized tires, not a bicycle tire. And latecurtis didn't know it.
 
http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/36vo10mo.html
 
that was what I was gonna get as This would probley have bolted in as it was the 36 volt upgrade for the exact bike I have I think. Not my fault it was discontinued.The old motor lasted for awhile and would still be running if I was about 50 pounds lighter and was not running all those lead ass batteries. with a twelve pack in my basket Total weight is around 400 pounds.
This post is long and you will see I looked at a lot of motors before I bought one. anything that bolted in was not 36 volt rated and either 250 or 450 watts. Why buy two horses when you need at least three to get the job done. And four to do a good job. I look at 12 volts = a horse. 48 volts and 1000 watts sounded goog to me. Am I missing anything or is there a 1000 watt motor that would bolt in. I did,nt find any and nobody told me about one. so please what size sprocket do I need to get my fat ass up a hill and still do about 25 mph on flat. I dont need to go 40 mph like the guy did on that build mark5 posted the motor with the fan on it. I got a fan for it but lets get serious here because if this thing is geared right it should not get too hot going up small hills and should get decent speed about 30 mph on flat. if not now then when I upgrade to 48 volts.

can you give me a part number on the right size sprocket so I can order it . thanks latecurtis
 
This i copied from the build mark 5 posted the guy that said it went 40 mph.

Unite Motor MY1020 Permanent Magnet DC
MY1020 48 Volt, 1200 Watt, 3200 RPM, 32 Amp, permanent-magnet motor.
12 gauge power leads with standard 1/4" push-in connectors.
11 tooth sprocket for #25 chain.

Motor Dimensions: 4-1/4" W x 6" L not including shaft. 4-1/4" W x 7" L including shaft.
Drivetrain We took a #25 chain 80-tooth sprocket.

What is the next size up bigger than 80 tooth. would it work. I will figure how to mount this beast somehow. might still mount it in the frame. I dont want to order the wrong sprocket. do they have a 100 tooth sprocket or something around there then will it do what I want?

Thanks latecurtis.
 
I believe the bike on that build was 26" I will go back and look. I was just thinking how fast that motor would go on a 20 inch bike. Just talking to this kid about putting 20 inch tires on a 24 inch frame. I would need lipos though and dont have money like that or any time soon. It dont hurt to think about it though. It would not need to be so big of a sprocket though. defenetally surprise some cars andefenetally piss off some cops. lol. I would trade all my lead batteries and currie frame right now with a 24 inch frame with 20 inch tires and the magic sprocket to make me fly. Id still have to come up with $180 for 2 - 22.5 6s bricks from hobby king though.

somebody make me an offer. 36 volt controller is new so are the brakes. and the batteries are a few months old and are good for 3 years. maxlife 22Ah batteries and new 36 volt charger.I will need brakes too though gotta be close though due to shipping costs. drkangel what about you you are close right. I got a new thumb throttle so ill leave the throttle from dogman on it. all I will need is a 48 volt controller to make it work. Ill throw some money in if you build a mounting bracket for the new motor and it has the right sprocket on it.

thanks latecurtis.
 
Okay, this post is amusing me. I've got to see this franken-bike work. Even better if I get to see the gas motor bolt on.

You can find a 90 tooth sprocket and a 9 tooth sprocket here:

http://www.electricscooterparts.com/sprockets25chain.html

You'll get change from $37 for the two of them together. (Have to pay for shipping still though).

I count 11 teeth on an MY1020.

11T x 3000rpm = 33,000 teeth per minute (tpm)

33,000 tpm / 90 teeth per rotation = 366 rpm

366 rpm x 9 teeth = 3,300tpm

3,300 tpm / 32 teeth per rotation (Largest gear on a derailleur) = 103rpm
3,300 tpm / 11 teeth per rotation (Smallest gear on a derailleur) = 300 rpm

Assuming 2m round for an average sized 26" mountain bike wheel, that means, in lowest gear 12.3km/h and highest gear 36km/h

That's your unloaded speed. You could probably use a 80/9 to get about 40km/h, or maybe a 90/11 to do the same thing. 1000W gets me to low 40s, but at 400lbs for the bike and you combined, your mileage (and speed) may vary.

I'm just imagining a 90 tooth chain ring buzzing at 366rpm (if that doesn't sound fast, just think of the 550 teeth passing you every SECOND) right behind your butt while riding though. I'd be like you're being chased by the Texas Chainsaw Massacre-er, except, the faster you go, the closer he gets, and his chainsaw is going faster.

Oh, this is going to be funny.
 
Sunder said:
Okay, this post is amusing me. I've got to see this franken-bike work. Even better if I get to see the gas motor bolt on.

You can find a 90 tooth sprocket and a 9 tooth sprocket here:

http://www.electricscooterparts.com/sprockets25chain.html

You'll get change from $37 for the two of them together. (Have to pay for shipping still though).

1. motor rpm x motor sprocket ÷ wheel sprocket = wheel rpm (revolutions per minute)
3000 x 9 ÷ 90 = 300rpm

2. wheel size" x 3.14 ÷ 12" ÷ 5280' = mpr (miles per revolution)
26 x 3.14 ÷ 12 ÷ 5280 = .00128 mpr (miles per revolution)

3. rpm (revolutions per minute) x mpr (miles per revolution) = mpm (miles per minute) x 60 minutes = mph (miles per hour)
300 x .00128 = .38655 x 60 = 23.19mph

Think I got the math right ... ?
Haven't had coffee yet tho!

Should work and give good efficiency, (modest heat production), ... if you keep above 15mph on hills!
 
Get the right motor for your bike. This is for a commuter. Start a project bike with spare money. This is so you have a running ebike. The dream bike ( dreamer ). When you have time to tinker. Go ride. Dream later.
This meant as a wake call.
 
NEVER listen to "Common Sense." It's usually WRONG.

http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/36-volt-600-watt-gear-reduction-motor-mounting-bracket-10-tooth-40-chain-sprocket-1020z.html

One last possibility. Looks like it fits, right? Only 600 watts, darn it. Certainly will hold up under more than the original, but will it stand up under ENOUGH? This seems to be your dilemma. I just don't know how well the jerryrigging of the more powerful motor will work out.

I also think just because you get an emergency fix to work is no reason to abandon rebuilding, rewinding, etc. on that original motor. Put together what you REALLY need while you have time. If/when the new job shows its' shortcomings you have the real answer ready.
 
Dauntless said:
NEVER listen to "Common Sense." It's usually WRONG.

http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/36-volt-600-watt-gear-reduction-motor-mounting-bracket-10-tooth-40-chain-sprocket-1020z.html

One last possibility. Looks like it fits, right? Only 600 watts, darn it. Certainly will hold up under more than the original, but will it stand up under ENOUGH? This seems to be your dilemma. I just don't know how well the jerryrigging of the more powerful motor will work out.

I also think just because you get an emergency fix to work is no reason to abandon rebuilding, rewinding, etc. on that original motor. Put together what you REALLY need while you have time. If/when the new job shows its' shortcomings you have the real answer ready.
MY1020z has:
proper rpm
~compatible mounting points ... kinda
600w output near 8-10mph - for those hills
cooling vents!

MY1020z needs:
9t #410 sprocket

48v
would push to 800w output at near 12mph for hills and
20mph motor only - cruising.

More important than peak watt output, for hills, is that peak watts and efficiency are at the rpm you take your hills with.
 
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