OK explain this to me

[I AM 0Z]

Here is a diagram of my hall sensors. If you look closely you will see two on the outside are face up and the middle one is face down. I would really like to know why this makes a difference.

 

[dirty_d]

if they are spaced 60 degrees apart and you flip the center one, i think it makes them output the same sequence of states as if they were spaced 120 degrees apart and all facing the same direction. i did a thread on this a while ago im not positive, but im pretty sure thats how it worked. you can do it out on paper.

 

[I AM 0Z]

so what you are telling me is I have a 120 degree motor?

 

[The7]

I would concur with dirty_d.

On the other hand, if the sensors were physically spaced 120 deg apart, flipping the centre sensor will give an effective spacing of 60 deg.

 

[I AM 0Z]

ok now confirm that the wiring for the sensor is still the same + red - black and output is yellow right AND it would still read the same as the other sensors when tested right?

 

[dirty_d]

it should.

 

[fechter]

Being upside down makes the hall sensor output respond to the opposite magnet pole. If a "normal" one is has a high output for a north pole, then turning it over will make it high for a south pole, etc.

 

[I AM 0Z]

oh this bites I finally took my bike out for a test drive today and talk about controller and motor noise DAMN! oh and it did get very warm too!!! PLEASE do not tell me I need to open this motor up anymore I am really getting tired of this and my battery range was no where near what it used to be. So now what? the motor tested free wheel at 56 MPH according to my speedometer but, when i put a load on it was moaning and groaning and getting hot.

 

[Zoot Katz]

Being upside down makes the hall sensor output respond to the opposite magnet pole. If a "normal" one is has a high output for a north pole, then turning it over will make it high for a south pole, etc.

Wow! I'm going to take your word on this

 

[I AM 0Z]

Ok here's a new twist. When the bike is coasting it is almost completely silent but, as soon as I hit the throttle it starts screaming. This is starting to drive me insane and i am beginning to wonder if the money time and effort I invested in this Shenzhen Controller is worth the hassle. Then again where else was I going to get a controller for my bike for that price? I have checked the hall sensors time and time again and tried rearranging the order they are connected and i keep comming back to the configuration I have now. This is so completely frustrating.

 

[fechter]

It sounds like the hall / phase wires aren't properly matched to the controller.

What motor are you using?

Can you measure the no-load current at full speed (like with the wheel off the ground)?

 

[I AM 0Z]

Fechter, i am using a New Hope 48 volt 500 watt front hub motor and it shouldn't be to difficult to get you those voltage readings but let me get this straight you want maximum voltage on all three motor power lines at full free wheel throttle? Oh and i remember something you said in our emails when all this first started about how you couldn't wait to see my avitar. So, what do ya think?

 

[biketrials]

maybe try putting the halls back to usual and try different combinations of the 3 motor phase wires.
my crazyman needed this, and so the wheel goes in reverse, so i flipped the wheel round. i wanted the wires to run on the opposite side of the fork anyways heh

 

[I AM 0Z]

ok I checked all three phase wire and they are each doing 23.8 - 24.2 volts at full throttle no load and maximum current is 13.5 amps at full throttle no load. I think that is what you are asking for right? Also I took the bike for a ride today and it's range SUCKED!!!!!!!!! I didn't even get 12 miles out of it before the batteries ran out.

 

[The7]

maximum current is 13.5 amps at full throttle no load. .

This no-load current is TOO HIGH.

 

[Link]

maximum current is 13.5 amps at full throttle no load. .

This no-load current is TOO HIGH.

Yeah, way too high. My Golden draws about 1.5A no load.

Sounds like mismatched wires to me. :?

 

[I AM 0Z]

View attachment meter set up.bmp

Now, this is how I set up the meter to read current draw by motor. Now,did I do it right? I am glad I spent the extra money a really good meter

 

[steveo]

With the hall senors (hall sensor Name) facing up is 120 degrees; with the writing facing downwards it is 60 degree.

i have no idea why one would be facing the other way; but that explains why your no-load current is so high!

-steveo

 

[docnjoj]

Is your New Hope motor geared or DD?
otherDoc

 

[I AM 0Z]

My New Hope 48V 500 Watt is Direct Drive

Now wait a minute, I got one guy telling me that the hall sensor orientation means 120 degree spacing and one guy telling me it means 60 degree spacing. So how am I supposed to know for sure which is the correct spacing for my motor? I paid attention to their orientation when I replaced them and put them back in the same way they came out. And so far no one is telling me if I checked the current draw for the motor correctly.

 

[gip_mad]

Please, calm down! If your hall sensors came that way, and the motor was working before, it means they are correct. Your method of measuring current is ok (except for the "Dial" typo). The fact that all sensors react in the opposite way as fetcher said is correct. Don't get desperate. Here's what to do:
Try EVERY combination of all hall and motor wires, until you find one where the motor runs smoothly, in the correct direction, consuming LESS than 2A. My crystalyte goes for 0.7A full throttle.
And by EVERY combination, I mean EVERY. Connect the winding wires in a way, then try all the 6 combinations of hall wires. Or do the opposite, just use the wires that are easier to unplug/plug. Then try to swap a couple of motor wires, and try again with the six combinations. Do this until the motor runs smoothly, in the correct direction.
I really suggest that you take a piece of paper and write down all the combination you tried, so you don't waste time. There was a nice excel table to help you on this, posted around on this forum.
And, most important, STAY CALM! 8)

 

[docnjoj]

My New Hope 48V 500 Watt is Direct Drive

Now wait a minute, I got one guy telling me that the hall sensor orientation means 120 degree spacing and one guy telling me it means 60 degree spacing. So how am I supposed to know for sure which is the correct spacing for my motor? I paid attention to their orientation when I replaced them and put them back in the same way they came out. And so far no one is telling me if I checked the current draw for the motor correctly.

I just went thru this with my Crystalyte/Bafang combo! I too have a high static run (no load) amp draw. It took about 1.5 hours, woulda been less if I had continued straight thru instead of complaining about it! Knuckles has a spreadsheet posted that makes it easy. First did U check the halls for working/not working?
otherDoc

 

[The7]

I just went thru this with my Crystalyte/Bafang combo! I too have a high static run (no load) amp draw. It took about 1.5 hours,
otherDoc

Do you mean 1.5 amp?

 

[The7]

Here is a diagram of my hall sensors. If you look closely you will see two on the outside are face up and the middle one is face down. I would really like to know why this makes a difference.

Any change if you could take a photo of the inside of your motor in order to determine the effective spacing (120 or 60 deg)?

 

[docnjoj]

I just went thru this with my Crystalyte/Bafang combo! I too have a high static run (no load) amp draw. It took about 1.5 hours,
otherDoc

Do you mean 1.5 amp?

I wish! Nah it took an hour and a half do the matching game of Hall wires and phase wires. I still ended up with about 12 amp at no load, but the motor runs fine in real life! Go figure! Im waiting on my Infineon to see if it is controller or motor problem or NO problem!
otherDoc