Pedal only bike recommendations for 200 mile trip
- Thread starter bigmoose
- Start date
mrzed
100 W
Sarah,
Another option is to get a late 90's - early 2000's higher end non suspension mountain bike that fits you. The nice thing about these is that both the hipsters and the mountain bikers hate em (for different reasons), so they can be had for peanuts on Craiglist etc. The only folks who like them are savvy commuters. Swap out the bars for road bars and get a much shorter and taller stem. Put 1.25 high pressure road tires on there and you are good to go. The wheels won't roll as well as a 700c bike on the flats, but you'll have an advantage uphills and in acceleration. You'll need a bike with 20mm or narrower rims to properly fit the higher pressure tires.
I used this setup to ride the Pacific Coast Highway with my wife a few years ago albeit in a fully loaded touring setup. My wife rode her lightspeed rigid mountain bike with flat bars and the same 1.25 tires- she did complain about her wrists at some points, so for serious hours in the saddle you really do want drop bars.
Speaking of saddle, it really is the most important part of the bike, and only you will be able to tell if it is the right one. If you can find one, some of the best bike stores will let you trade saddles from their inventory for test rides until you find one that works.
A decent used road bike would probably still be the best bet for the ride but with the damn hipsters still bumping up the price, the best value in terms of quality/$ is older rigid mountain bikes.
Another option is to get a late 90's - early 2000's higher end non suspension mountain bike that fits you. The nice thing about these is that both the hipsters and the mountain bikers hate em (for different reasons), so they can be had for peanuts on Craiglist etc. The only folks who like them are savvy commuters. Swap out the bars for road bars and get a much shorter and taller stem. Put 1.25 high pressure road tires on there and you are good to go. The wheels won't roll as well as a 700c bike on the flats, but you'll have an advantage uphills and in acceleration. You'll need a bike with 20mm or narrower rims to properly fit the higher pressure tires.
I used this setup to ride the Pacific Coast Highway with my wife a few years ago albeit in a fully loaded touring setup. My wife rode her lightspeed rigid mountain bike with flat bars and the same 1.25 tires- she did complain about her wrists at some points, so for serious hours in the saddle you really do want drop bars.
Speaking of saddle, it really is the most important part of the bike, and only you will be able to tell if it is the right one. If you can find one, some of the best bike stores will let you trade saddles from their inventory for test rides until you find one that works.
A decent used road bike would probably still be the best bet for the ride but with the damn hipsters still bumping up the price, the best value in terms of quality/$ is older rigid mountain bikes.
+1 on velomans recommendation of a Giant OCR. My wife has been riding an OCR1 and has just upgraded to the OCR C1 (full carbon version)
She is selling the OCR 1 but I think it's probably too small for you (it's XS, she is 5'4") you might get away with it with a longer stem and the seat positioned back. If you're interested, try out a Giant Defy at a local Giant dealer, it's basically the new version of the same geometry.
The OCR is a "comfort" road bike, with a fairly relaxed geometry, but still very lightweight (20lbs-ish). It is effortless to ride and fast as well. It's maybe a bit over your price range (unless veloman finds you a bargain
) but it's well worth looking out for.
She is selling the OCR 1 but I think it's probably too small for you (it's XS, she is 5'4") you might get away with it with a longer stem and the seat positioned back. If you're interested, try out a Giant Defy at a local Giant dealer, it's basically the new version of the same geometry.
The OCR is a "comfort" road bike, with a fairly relaxed geometry, but still very lightweight (20lbs-ish). It is effortless to ride and fast as well. It's maybe a bit over your price range (unless veloman finds you a bargain
) but it's well worth looking out for.
bigmoose
1 MW
I know this is an old thread, but I wanted to status a bit in thanks to all of you for your advice. Sarah has been training since she got her bike from your recommendations. Mile by mile she inched up and learned about clipped pedals and lycra shorts, tire kits and two water bottles! She went on the Pelatonia ride last Saturday and completed 102 miles (~170 Km) A-OK in about 10 hours. No flats, no spills, no bruises... just some nerve thing in her left arm/wrist where she says she can't clamp a bottle to open it up, but it is dissipating.
Thanks again for all your help!
Thanks again for all your help!
grindz145
1 MW
That's very impressive, a century is serious! Glad to here we helped out a little bit.
Hello everyone,
Well...I want to thank you all so much for all your advice and help the last couple of months! I will update you on everything!
First, I was able to find a bike at a used bike shop just a few miles away. It is a 56cm or 57cm (I can't remember, but I am 5' 10" and it fits me like it should) Lotus from around the 80's I believe. The shop had tuned everything on it, and it rides great! It had brand new 700x23c (I think 23) tires, true rims, new brakes; the handle bars were rewrapped and the saddle was pretty good too for an old one. The derailleurs and shifters are Shimano600, which the really experienced bike shop guy said were like the best at the time. They shift great and I haven't had any major issues with them so far. The bike itself is FAST I think, which for a 30ish year old bike, is good, I think? I was able to get it for $300 plus tax, and I think that was a good deal knowing that I was getting a bike that was tuned and true and one that I didn't really have to put any extra work into making it safe and good, which if I had bought one on Craigslist wasn't always the case. I think its even faster than my boyfriend's new Specialized bike...haha but don't tell him I said that!
I spent about 7 weeks riding that bike, on the nature trails that are around the area and the pedals were the ones where you put your toe into the loop-thing, I don't know what they are really called. It was better than just regular pedals but I kept not being able to get my feet in them fast enough. About 2 weeks before we rode, we decided to check out the clipless pedals...a gamble, I know, so close to ride day. My boyfriend is pretty forum savvy and reads about EVERYTHING, and read that it would be pretty hard on your legs to do a century with the cheap plastic pedals his bike came with...so we went to stores and checked them out, bought shoes in the stores and got everything else online...we got triangular cleats with some Shimano PD-M520L MTB Pedals..and they worked great! Albeit, I have taken a few spills getting used to balancing on the side of my body that I clipped out of coming up to stop, but God made your body to heal, so the few bruises have healed haha. I only have taken a picture of the bike on my phone but when I get a chance I'll upload a pic of it to here for you guys to see.
Ride day was Saturday, started at 7:00am and most of the ride was GREAT! The longest we had ridden before Saturday was 56 miles, so we knew we were in for a real test haha. We rode through some SERIOUS SERIOUS hills....and my rode, I mean we ended up walking the bike up most of the hill because we just couldn't do it at times. But they had rest stops every 20 miles or so with plenty of water, gatorade and food and so we were able to rest a little every couple hours for about 10 or 15 minutes so we could keep going. We did finish the century, 102 miles to be exact, and it was probably one of the best feelings I've had! I didn't fall the entire day, the bike was good to me haha, and the downhills were fast...hope I didn't burn out my brakes too much, but I was told to alternate between the back and front brakes so as to not burn them out and so I did that.
The only thing that happened bike-wise was that as I got towards the last 1/3 of the ride, my rear shifter/derailleur was getting kind of loose, like as I would downshift, it would fall back..and it would do that of course as I was trying to get up a hill...so I think I need to try to tighten it or take it to the shop for a tune up, esp after riding that far. What do you guys think?
Other than that, everything else went great!!!! If you guys have any thoughts or advice or anything else I should look out for or add to he bike to make it better in time, please give it! Thanks again for the advice and everything...I appreciate it!!
Well...I want to thank you all so much for all your advice and help the last couple of months! I will update you on everything!
First, I was able to find a bike at a used bike shop just a few miles away. It is a 56cm or 57cm (I can't remember, but I am 5' 10" and it fits me like it should) Lotus from around the 80's I believe. The shop had tuned everything on it, and it rides great! It had brand new 700x23c (I think 23) tires, true rims, new brakes; the handle bars were rewrapped and the saddle was pretty good too for an old one. The derailleurs and shifters are Shimano600, which the really experienced bike shop guy said were like the best at the time. They shift great and I haven't had any major issues with them so far. The bike itself is FAST I think, which for a 30ish year old bike, is good, I think? I was able to get it for $300 plus tax, and I think that was a good deal knowing that I was getting a bike that was tuned and true and one that I didn't really have to put any extra work into making it safe and good, which if I had bought one on Craigslist wasn't always the case. I think its even faster than my boyfriend's new Specialized bike...haha but don't tell him I said that!
I spent about 7 weeks riding that bike, on the nature trails that are around the area and the pedals were the ones where you put your toe into the loop-thing, I don't know what they are really called. It was better than just regular pedals but I kept not being able to get my feet in them fast enough. About 2 weeks before we rode, we decided to check out the clipless pedals...a gamble, I know, so close to ride day. My boyfriend is pretty forum savvy and reads about EVERYTHING, and read that it would be pretty hard on your legs to do a century with the cheap plastic pedals his bike came with...so we went to stores and checked them out, bought shoes in the stores and got everything else online...we got triangular cleats with some Shimano PD-M520L MTB Pedals..and they worked great! Albeit, I have taken a few spills getting used to balancing on the side of my body that I clipped out of coming up to stop, but God made your body to heal, so the few bruises have healed haha. I only have taken a picture of the bike on my phone but when I get a chance I'll upload a pic of it to here for you guys to see.
Ride day was Saturday, started at 7:00am and most of the ride was GREAT! The longest we had ridden before Saturday was 56 miles, so we knew we were in for a real test haha. We rode through some SERIOUS SERIOUS hills....and my rode, I mean we ended up walking the bike up most of the hill because we just couldn't do it at times. But they had rest stops every 20 miles or so with plenty of water, gatorade and food and so we were able to rest a little every couple hours for about 10 or 15 minutes so we could keep going. We did finish the century, 102 miles to be exact, and it was probably one of the best feelings I've had! I didn't fall the entire day, the bike was good to me haha, and the downhills were fast...hope I didn't burn out my brakes too much, but I was told to alternate between the back and front brakes so as to not burn them out and so I did that.
The only thing that happened bike-wise was that as I got towards the last 1/3 of the ride, my rear shifter/derailleur was getting kind of loose, like as I would downshift, it would fall back..and it would do that of course as I was trying to get up a hill...so I think I need to try to tighten it or take it to the shop for a tune up, esp after riding that far. What do you guys think?
Other than that, everything else went great!!!! If you guys have any thoughts or advice or anything else I should look out for or add to he bike to make it better in time, please give it! Thanks again for the advice and everything...I appreciate it!!
That could be caused by the cable stretching or simply finally fully seating at the shifter end, or it could be caused by the rear wheel not being seated fully into the dropouts or the clamp or nut being loose on the right side.Sarah said:
If either of those happens, then the position of the derailer relative to the rear cassette sprockets is slightly off, and on some of them it will probably shift fine but on others it may not shift to them right or stay shifted if it does shift to them.
Cable stretch or seating is easily compensated for by adjusting the tension nut at either end of the derailer/shifter cable--some older ones don't have a nut at the shifter end, but only at the input to the derailer, where the cable enters it. It rarely takes more than 1/2 turn to fix it, and probalby not even that much.
Loose wheel nuts/clamps are easy to find and fix, too, but you'd probably also have wiggle in the wheel if this happened, especially when letting off from heavy pedalling on the flats, or on some downhills especially if pulsing the brakes. I'd suspect this particular problem more than others simply because you specify it's while climbing a hill, and that is when you pull hardest on the rear wheel with the chain, which can loosen the axle in the dropouts and make the wheel shift positions.
It can also be caused by the shifter itself--if it is not an indexed shifter, and just a friction lever (or like some of the Shimano Deore ones like I have has both modes with a switch) then the tension screw can loosen, letting it back-shift from where you left it. The tension screw is usually on the top center of the shifter lever itself, if it is this type, and can often be adjusted with a coin (like a dime).
JennyB
1 kW
Congratulations!
Sounds like it was a a well-organised ride and you tackled it sensibly. Must have been fun!
Are you thinking of a motor for the hills next time? :wink:
Sounds like it was a a well-organised ride and you tackled it sensibly. Must have been fun!
Are you thinking of a motor for the hills next time? :wink:
LI-ghtcycle
10 MW
Wow great job Sarah!
Not sure how I missed this thread, but glad to hear you got a bike that you enjoy, and I am sure that this will continue to be a great bike for you.
I would however like to reiterate what LiveForPhysics said, and here is an EXCELENT example of a great yet inexpensive recumbent I just found today as an exercise to see what was available in my area.
(Portland Craigslist)
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/bik/2557345259.html
I agree with all the general advice that has been given on what to get/use for a road bike, however, I will add one more suggestion: get a saddle from REI and you will be able to test out as many as you like, and return them after a week or so's use (it really does take this long to get know if the saddle fits you best IMHO) and I think you will find like many of us here that a Brooks saddle of the right shape specific to you (everyone's ideal seat shape can be different) and then look for one on CL or Ebay that is used because it will be broken in, and perfectly comfortable the moment you sit on it (anyone that tries to tell you to "get used to" a saddle or otherwise sit on one that isn't comfortable the MOMENT you sit on it is really missing what it feels like to have a comfortable seat, trust me, I commute almost daily, no car :wink: )
I'm also going to throw another monkey wrench into this whole "ideal bike" question by giving you my experience riding the one and only recumbent bicycle that I have ridden.
WARNING!! READING BEYOND THIS POINT MAY CAUSE TOTAL LOSS OF DESIRE TO RIDE A WEDGIE BIKE!!
First off, let me dispel a couple of myths associated with recumbents in general.
Depending on the type, they can be just as easy, or even easier to ride up hills than an up-right (wedgie) bike. (Not my term, but the general term used tongue-in-cheek to describe non-recumbent bikes, and funny enough, before learning this, I often had heard my nephew complain that "my bike is giving me a wedgie!" riding on his mountain bike.)
Now, there are more extreme versions of recumbents that are most certainly trickier to ride than a wedgie, and some referred to as a "high racer" (or perhaps just different types of geometry) have you laying back quite far, straining to look forward, and look much like "flying feet of furry!" to anyone you are approaching head-on, and can be much trickier to get started on especially going up hill.
The truth is, when riding a recumbent, you are using your leg muscles differently, and when first starting, you ARE going to be slower in general than you were on an up-right bike, and in my experience, although limited to about 2 - 3 months now on the R40, I am faster all around now that I am getting my 'bent legs, and now the roadies that used to pass me are often passed by me.
One thing to know too is that when riding a recumbent, you are no longer limited to the amount of force you can put to the pedals by your body weight, and you have to actually watch out for this first starting as it is easier to over-stress your knees pushing hard on hills if you're not careful.
You might ask as I did "so why aren't there more recumbents around since they are so much better?" there is a really good answer: money.
Recumbent bikes have been around since the 1890's but when an "average" racer riding a recumbent was able to beat the top racer in a major event (think something like the TDF is to us today, and a average racer lapping Lance Armstrong in his prime) it was decided to ban these bikes from racing, and protecting the sales of upright bikes.
Also, 90% of what is on my Vision R40 is all common to any bike part you find on a road or mountain bike, so it's really just the frame and seat that are different (no need to worry about trouble finding parts, etc.)
Another thing about the recumbent is the extremely aerodynamic position when compared to any form of up-right bike.
The tires are very important, I agree, and rolling resistance is normally lesser with skinnier tires, however, any aerodynamic gains with skinny tires over fat are vastly eclipsed by the increase in aerodynamics of the riding position that allows the wind to pass over you instead of hitting into your chest head-on while riding a wedgie. :wink:
To prove this, have two riders with the same general weight (total bike & rider) coast down a hill with no pedaling side by side.
I have done this with a friend who had a full touring load, and about 50lbs heavier rider weight, and the lack of drag on my bike had me beating him with -in moments coasting down by several car lengths, and I have the fattest tires you can fit! (Schwalbe Big Apples at 2.35 inch wide front and rear)
The same bike you see pictured, is the model I have that was given to me by Rassy (member here on ES) that is a Vision R40.
Here is a pic of mine:
This bike took me minutes to learn to ride, and less than a day to master. My friend Jennifer rode it the first time and was doing even better in just 20 minutes!
The major difference is that you have to get used to starting forward with more momentum, and pedaling a little later (there is an excellent "how to ride a recumbent bike" vid on youtube) and soon it becomes second nature.
I have just returned from a 287 mile trip on mine, loaded with full camping gear (bike+gear 150 lbs) over the nastiest mountain grades imaginable, and doing this as much as 65 miles in one day, as little as 20 (touring around the Oregon Coast after attending the 13th annual Recumbent Retreat) and never ONCE were my hands, shoulders, neck, back or even my rear end sore in the least!
I doubt anyone riding a wedgie bike can make that claim, I imagine like me, most everyone who rides long distances on a non-recumbent is limited most by the discomfort even the best saddle gives you after 60+ miles or 6+ hours in the saddle rather than anything else. :wink:
P.S. One thing to note, the picture of the Craigslist bike is in the LWB (Long Wheel Base) mode, mine in the SWB (Short Wheel Base) and with USS (under seat steering) this is standard for the Vision R40, allowing you to use it either way, however, you will need to buy or build (I highly recommend building it's extremely easy and cheap to do) the "mast" (the tube that the bars attach to) and just a standard threadless headset to attach, and you just use the same handlebars.
On a recumbent you have no pressure at all on your hands, therefore, there is no need to have multiple positions to put your hands in, and personally, even though the road bike drop bars give you less of a "sail" effect than sitting more up-right, they are still very uncomfortable for many including me, and you no longer have any of those issues riding a recumbent.
Don't take my word for it though, find the local recumbent bike shop in your area, and try one out!
In the end, a bicycle is a very personal and specific choice, and I'm just wanting to give you my experiences because if not for Rassy and his generous gift, I might never have gotten around to trying out a recumbent.
Best of all, you can pick up a really nice shape R40 for $300 - $500 very easy, and that is in the summer! Imagine how cheap one might sell for in the winter!
Not sure how I missed this thread, but glad to hear you got a bike that you enjoy, and I am sure that this will continue to be a great bike for you.
I would however like to reiterate what LiveForPhysics said, and here is an EXCELENT example of a great yet inexpensive recumbent I just found today as an exercise to see what was available in my area.
(Portland Craigslist)
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/bik/2557345259.html
I agree with all the general advice that has been given on what to get/use for a road bike, however, I will add one more suggestion: get a saddle from REI and you will be able to test out as many as you like, and return them after a week or so's use (it really does take this long to get know if the saddle fits you best IMHO) and I think you will find like many of us here that a Brooks saddle of the right shape specific to you (everyone's ideal seat shape can be different) and then look for one on CL or Ebay that is used because it will be broken in, and perfectly comfortable the moment you sit on it (anyone that tries to tell you to "get used to" a saddle or otherwise sit on one that isn't comfortable the MOMENT you sit on it is really missing what it feels like to have a comfortable seat, trust me, I commute almost daily, no car :wink: )
I'm also going to throw another monkey wrench into this whole "ideal bike" question by giving you my experience riding the one and only recumbent bicycle that I have ridden.
WARNING!! READING BEYOND THIS POINT MAY CAUSE TOTAL LOSS OF DESIRE TO RIDE A WEDGIE BIKE!! First off, let me dispel a couple of myths associated with recumbents in general.
Depending on the type, they can be just as easy, or even easier to ride up hills than an up-right (wedgie) bike. (Not my term, but the general term used tongue-in-cheek to describe non-recumbent bikes, and funny enough, before learning this, I often had heard my nephew complain that "my bike is giving me a wedgie!" riding on his mountain bike.)
Now, there are more extreme versions of recumbents that are most certainly trickier to ride than a wedgie, and some referred to as a "high racer" (or perhaps just different types of geometry) have you laying back quite far, straining to look forward, and look much like "flying feet of furry!" to anyone you are approaching head-on, and can be much trickier to get started on especially going up hill.
The truth is, when riding a recumbent, you are using your leg muscles differently, and when first starting, you ARE going to be slower in general than you were on an up-right bike, and in my experience, although limited to about 2 - 3 months now on the R40, I am faster all around now that I am getting my 'bent legs, and now the roadies that used to pass me are often passed by me.
One thing to know too is that when riding a recumbent, you are no longer limited to the amount of force you can put to the pedals by your body weight, and you have to actually watch out for this first starting as it is easier to over-stress your knees pushing hard on hills if you're not careful.
You might ask as I did "so why aren't there more recumbents around since they are so much better?" there is a really good answer: money.
Recumbent bikes have been around since the 1890's but when an "average" racer riding a recumbent was able to beat the top racer in a major event (think something like the TDF is to us today, and a average racer lapping Lance Armstrong in his prime) it was decided to ban these bikes from racing, and protecting the sales of upright bikes.
Also, 90% of what is on my Vision R40 is all common to any bike part you find on a road or mountain bike, so it's really just the frame and seat that are different (no need to worry about trouble finding parts, etc.)
Another thing about the recumbent is the extremely aerodynamic position when compared to any form of up-right bike.
The tires are very important, I agree, and rolling resistance is normally lesser with skinnier tires, however, any aerodynamic gains with skinny tires over fat are vastly eclipsed by the increase in aerodynamics of the riding position that allows the wind to pass over you instead of hitting into your chest head-on while riding a wedgie. :wink:
To prove this, have two riders with the same general weight (total bike & rider) coast down a hill with no pedaling side by side.
I have done this with a friend who had a full touring load, and about 50lbs heavier rider weight, and the lack of drag on my bike had me beating him with -in moments coasting down by several car lengths, and I have the fattest tires you can fit! (Schwalbe Big Apples at 2.35 inch wide front and rear)
The same bike you see pictured, is the model I have that was given to me by Rassy (member here on ES) that is a Vision R40.
Here is a pic of mine:
This bike took me minutes to learn to ride, and less than a day to master. My friend Jennifer rode it the first time and was doing even better in just 20 minutes!
The major difference is that you have to get used to starting forward with more momentum, and pedaling a little later (there is an excellent "how to ride a recumbent bike" vid on youtube) and soon it becomes second nature.
I have just returned from a 287 mile trip on mine, loaded with full camping gear (bike+gear 150 lbs) over the nastiest mountain grades imaginable, and doing this as much as 65 miles in one day, as little as 20 (touring around the Oregon Coast after attending the 13th annual Recumbent Retreat) and never ONCE were my hands, shoulders, neck, back or even my rear end sore in the least!
I doubt anyone riding a wedgie bike can make that claim, I imagine like me, most everyone who rides long distances on a non-recumbent is limited most by the discomfort even the best saddle gives you after 60+ miles or 6+ hours in the saddle rather than anything else. :wink:
P.S. One thing to note, the picture of the Craigslist bike is in the LWB (Long Wheel Base) mode, mine in the SWB (Short Wheel Base) and with USS (under seat steering) this is standard for the Vision R40, allowing you to use it either way, however, you will need to buy or build (I highly recommend building it's extremely easy and cheap to do) the "mast" (the tube that the bars attach to) and just a standard threadless headset to attach, and you just use the same handlebars.
On a recumbent you have no pressure at all on your hands, therefore, there is no need to have multiple positions to put your hands in, and personally, even though the road bike drop bars give you less of a "sail" effect than sitting more up-right, they are still very uncomfortable for many including me, and you no longer have any of those issues riding a recumbent.
Don't take my word for it though, find the local recumbent bike shop in your area, and try one out!
In the end, a bicycle is a very personal and specific choice, and I'm just wanting to give you my experiences because if not for Rassy and his generous gift, I might never have gotten around to trying out a recumbent.
Best of all, you can pick up a really nice shape R40 for $300 - $500 very easy, and that is in the summer! Imagine how cheap one might sell for in the winter!
vanilla ice
1 MW
I rode an old 12spd lotus for a long time. Good bikes. I gave it to my buddy and I think he still rides it to this day.
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