Potting Batteries, Thoughts and Experiments
- Thread starter justin_le
- Start date
zabazoom said:
For those who want to play. If your LiGo has firmware v0004 or v0005 on it then you'll need to first use this tool to update to the bootloader and also get the latest v0009 firmware
http://www.ebikes.ca/downloads/debug/ligoupdater_v0.1.apk
Anything with v0006 or later firmware (~march I think) can jump right to this:
http://www.ebikes.ca/downloads/debug/LiGoConnect_v0.4.apk
This is android dev software and not even close to what the final release app will be like, so please no critiques or expectations of documentation or help! When we're ready for that level of beta testing we'll announce it, this is just for impatient people who want a taste for where things are going in the bluetooth app development.
I did some potting. Hot glue, to keep cells together when building. ANY nicklestrip that goes outside, has two or three layers of Kapton, upside down, so stickum is outward. All nicklestrip that goes anywhere that could contact outer casing, has thick superglue, then activator. Only at site. This is essentially encapsulation to a degree. It can still be repaired, and tested per cell. And charged per cell. It lacks SOME of the resistance to drops. Oh, I forgot, kapton around all cells, leaving the between empty to test cells etc. The packs are stout. Then, it is contained in a polycarbonate tube. I would like to seal the vessel, with fiberglass cloth.
This is important, as I use no BMS. So, for safety sake, I only discharge to halfish, and only charge to 80%. This leaves me safe.
This is important, as I use no BMS. So, for safety sake, I only discharge to halfish, and only charge to 80%. This leaves me safe.
Hummina Shadeeba
1 MW
maybe hot glue will slightly damage the cells from the heat. silicone from the hardware store seems good or better yet chose around a 90 duro polyurethane from smooth-on.com and wait till it get cures to the thickness you need to apply it.
I think there's a danger with any of these of clogging the pressure release vent on the positive side which most cells have.
seems overkill to put insulation between cells in parallel.
I think there's a danger with any of these of clogging the pressure release vent on the positive side which most cells have.
seems overkill to put insulation between cells in parallel.
Hummina Shadeeba
1 MW
No new potting news?
I’m planning some huge pottings of (98) 26650 cells including some M5 mounting posts and will post when done.
I found using epoxy isn’t as good as a hard polyurethane in that it’s not as rigid or brittle and cheaper than epoxy. Fiberglass can be used with both.
Think I’ll unwrap the cells and dip them in epoxy first as the wrap is a weakness. If going for strength the challenge seems to be getting as much fiberglass in as possible without trapping air.
I’m planning some huge pottings of (98) 26650 cells including some M5 mounting posts and will post when done.
I found using epoxy isn’t as good as a hard polyurethane in that it’s not as rigid or brittle and cheaper than epoxy. Fiberglass can be used with both.
Think I’ll unwrap the cells and dip them in epoxy first as the wrap is a weakness. If going for strength the challenge seems to be getting as much fiberglass in as possible without trapping air.
ZeroEm
1 MW
Just wondering about heat transfer?
Hummina Shadeeba
1 MW
if these people are going to put their batteries in what's essentially a heatsink for the motors Im not going to worry about heat transfer anymore
https://www.jaykay-sport.de/en
https://www.jaykay-sport.de/en
If I were doing just top and bottom I would want a balance of durability and flexibility
along the lines of what Crocs are made from.
I would want to be able to remove the cells and reuse the molded top & bottom halves when re-assembling.
Dielectric insulation of course, do not assume, check the data sheet.
I would not worry about heat conductivity, in my use cases temperature rises from internal resistance are barely detectable.
In fact, assistance with insulation is A Good Thing for charging and usage in cold temps.
along the lines of what Crocs are made from.
I would want to be able to remove the cells and reuse the molded top & bottom halves when re-assembling.
Dielectric insulation of course, do not assume, check the data sheet.
I would not worry about heat conductivity, in my use cases temperature rises from internal resistance are barely detectable.
In fact, assistance with insulation is A Good Thing for charging and usage in cold temps.
goatman
10 MW
Maniaccts said:
i use plasti-dip, works great at insulating and waterproofing and is removed easily if you need to work on the pack. been using for almost year :thumb:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=103834#p1521118
if you get the spray can, spray a coat on then use a hair dryer to fast dry it in 2 minutes. do 4 coats per side and its done
this is another battery i did
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=104027#p1526264
and a completely plastidipped battery
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=103879&p=1522970&hilit=plasti+dip#p1522970
"PaulD's experiments with endothermic potting compounds"
The current lead-prospect is baking soda mixed with silicone, cheap and good performance.
PaulD's Experiments with Endothermic Potting Compounds
The current lead-prospect is baking soda mixed with silicone, cheap and good performance.
PaulD's Experiments with Endothermic Potting Compounds
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