RICK
10 mW
I've found pinch flats are largely dependent on my technique when installing tubes.If I check carefully all the way around both beads to be sure there are no pinches it helps a lot. No sliding of tire irons.
puncture proof, airless tire, .. almost there.
- Thread starter Ypedal
- Start date
parajared
10 kW
BATFINK
10 kW
- Joined
- Aug 7, 2011
- Messages
- 598
I basically cut the beaded edge of an tyre and put that tire inside my tire, so I have 2 tires thickness, both tyres have some form of puncture resitsance built into them, then I use downhill tubes inside that and I fill them will ATV slime. Blew my knee so not had a lot of time to really give them a thorough testing but it would take some serious damage to puncture these.
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dingoEsride
100 kW
parajared said:
Thats classic but I wouldn't want to corner with it!
cal3thousand
10 MW
dingoEsride said:
I bet it really helps with traffic light sensors in the ground though.
Brettster
10 mW
Going down stairs would be interesting?
Ya know, there are a variety of 'puncture proof' tires out there that are quite good. There has been a lot of experimentation with tires lately, but tall rubber and intermediate layers of protective materials seem to really work well.
My specialized armadillo 1.95" has been top notch.
http://www.specialized.com/us/en/ftb/cityurban-tires/multi-terrain-use-tires/hemisphere-armadillo
My schwalbe energizer plus 1.75" ( they market it as an ebike tire ) have been top notch too.
http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires/energizer_plus
Schwalbe Marathon Plus Tour HS404's are supposedly the best puncture proof tire you could ever buy as well.
http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires/marathon_plus_tour
Everything else has been pop-pop-pop when rolling over goathead stickers. That includes various bontrager tires, michelin city tires, a bunch of cheapo 'comes with the bike' tires and especially every mountain bike oriented tire ( thick knobby sections, but very thin carcass ) i have used. The schwalbe energizers and specialized armadillos though? i have picked many dozens of goatheads out of the things
Here is a discussion on which is the best:
http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-715722.html
My specialized armadillo 1.95" has been top notch.
http://www.specialized.com/us/en/ftb/cityurban-tires/multi-terrain-use-tires/hemisphere-armadillo
My schwalbe energizer plus 1.75" ( they market it as an ebike tire ) have been top notch too.
http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires/energizer_plus
Schwalbe Marathon Plus Tour HS404's are supposedly the best puncture proof tire you could ever buy as well.
http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires/marathon_plus_tour
Everything else has been pop-pop-pop when rolling over goathead stickers. That includes various bontrager tires, michelin city tires, a bunch of cheapo 'comes with the bike' tires and especially every mountain bike oriented tire ( thick knobby sections, but very thin carcass ) i have used. The schwalbe energizers and specialized armadillos though? i have picked many dozens of goatheads out of the things
Here is a discussion on which is the best:
http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-715722.html
auraslip
10 MW
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2010
- Messages
- 3,535
I disagree with all of you. Here is the best method:
Thick Downhill or scooter tubes.
Stan's or slime tire sealant.
Any tire liner besides slime (they cut into the tube and cause flats. spend $5 more and get a better product)
Fat tires at lower PSIs.
Tires are cheap and wear down in a year. Good quality tubes and tire liners can last indefinitely. Tire liners can be a bitch to put on though.
Thick Downhill or scooter tubes.
Stan's or slime tire sealant.
Any tire liner besides slime (they cut into the tube and cause flats. spend $5 more and get a better product)
Fat tires at lower PSIs.
Tires are cheap and wear down in a year. Good quality tubes and tire liners can last indefinitely. Tire liners can be a bitch to put on though.
Chalo
100 TW
auraslip said:
Mr Tuffy brand liners cause plenty of flats in my professional observation, and all liners bust up after plenty of miles (much less than "indefinitely"). They also have a characteristic way of not being located where you might want them to be inside the tire.
Your recipe sounds great-- if the objective is to double the weight of your wheels, make them ride like crap, and turn any simple flat repair into a messy, time-consuming ordeal.
Here's my method:
Bicycle tires. Bicycle tubes. Intended ride qualities. Easy maintenance and repair.
Sounds simple, doesn't it? It could be the most popular choice for a reason, you know.
auraslip
10 MW
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2010
- Messages
- 3,535
GRANTED. GRANTED. AND GRANTED.
I pretty much have to tape the mr. tuffy tire liners to the center of the tire to get them to mount in the correct spot. That's the magic trick there. Otherwise they don't stay in place.
Don't really give a shit about an extra pound of rubber on a 70lb bike. What's that anyways? The weigh of a spare tube and a bike pump?
OTOH, the only time you need to remove the tire is when there is no more tread left. So um, 10k miles with out a flat. What's you're record? 8)
The fingers
10 TW
I get a flat, destroy a rim, or replace a tire about every four to six months; with average annual mileage of 2500 miles. I use Chinese everything, even though the bike was made in Taiwan. Regular bike shop thorn-proof tubes seem to last best for me; most flats caused by glass, screws, valve stem issues, and the occasional 
head thorn. Heavier tubes and tires I might try if they're priced right, my bike also weighs 70 pounds. 
(me lifting it by myself)
head thorn. Heavier tubes and tires I might try if they're priced right, my bike also weighs 70 pounds. (me lifting it by myself)Start using puncture proof tires like the one i mentioned. You can go with a thick tube, but it's the tallness and strength of the thing that rests on top of the tube that does the majority of the deflecting of bad stuff.
I was literally going through a dozen tubes a month using all varieties of non-tire fixes.
I was literally going through a dozen tubes a month using all varieties of non-tire fixes.
Chalo
100 TW
neptronix said:
The "cheese stuffed" category of tire (with a thick polyurethane barrier under the tread rubber) is the flat preventive I know that just works, without annoying drawbacks. Yes, they are heavy; and no, they are not terribly fast; and no, they don't ride or handle especially well. But they are not awful in any of these regards, while they still do the best possible job of preventing flats.
That would be the Schwalbe Marathon Plus, Michelin Pilot City, and CST Salvo, as far as I know. The Continental Contact Security was in the same category, but is now out of production, I think.
This construction works much better than just an equal thickness of tread rubber for at least three reasons: PU dissipates less energy and thus is faster, the undertread layer is softer than tread rubber and can contribute to ride quality, and since it isn't designed to grip, it is much more likely to spit sharps back out than to hold onto them.
parajared
10 kW
The "ghetto tubeless" method has held up for the month that I have tried it so far. I would say there are about 30-50 thorns in each tire right now. Definitely a better ride than my "Bell no-mor flats" foam tube.
I tried Mr. Toughy tire liner and it didn't work for me.
Slime tubes= fail
mondo thick tubes= fail
I tried Mr. Toughy tire liner and it didn't work for me.
Slime tubes= fail
mondo thick tubes= fail
Chalo
100 TW
parajared said:
A couple of my coworkers do that. They have to maintain their tires more often than I do, though-- because their tires burp while mountain biking, or because the sealant curdles into boogers. When they do have to mess with that stuff, it looks about as pleasant as cleaning out the mystery soup you forgot in a saucepan in the back of the fridge three months ago.
It is kind of funny to see a bike mechanic show up with his disabled bike in a car, because he couldn't or wouldn't fix his pain-in-the-butt tubeless tire in the field.
To be honest, I have not tried ghetto tubeless or any of the commercial tubeless systems. Watching my coworkers cured me of any curiosity about it.
I can't say what I'd use if I lived in a goathead-strewn wasteland like Albuquerque etc. Probably a polyurethane layered tire, plus a normal tube charged with Stan's. I'm glad I don't have to take things that far.
www.recumbents.com
10 kW
For Illinois, slime tubes work fine. I tested some experimental high tech airless tires 10 years ago. Not impressed. I don't think a new PU foam formulation is going to fix the major problems.
http://www.recumbents.com/wisil/tires/solid_tires.htm
IMO the best bet for you folks in high road hazard areas would be to run DOT rated moped & motorcycle tires. Ya they are heavy, but they are bulletproof, handle well and it has been shown that it is (relatively) easy to retrofit them to normal MTB bikes.
-Warren.
http://www.recumbents.com/wisil/tires/solid_tires.htm
IMO the best bet for you folks in high road hazard areas would be to run DOT rated moped & motorcycle tires. Ya they are heavy, but they are bulletproof, handle well and it has been shown that it is (relatively) easy to retrofit them to normal MTB bikes.
-Warren.
MadRhino
100 GW
Sealant and all sort of slime works great, but this is adding to wheel inertia too. Nothing is as good as a heavy tire to lose performance, but a tire that has thick liquid inside it.
Build light weight, build for quick servicing, and carry the tools. Carrying one pound of tools is much better that carrying one extra pound of tire, for both performance and reliability.
Build light weight, build for quick servicing, and carry the tools. Carrying one pound of tools is much better that carrying one extra pound of tire, for both performance and reliability.
atcspaul
10 W
how the heck do you get staples in a tire? do you ride around the office?
You can just press the Easy Button.
Most common place I usualy see staples on the ground is outside loading docks or warehouses, or on the street near exits for those. They're usually big copper staples from boxes, or steel ones from pallets.
Most common place I usualy see staples on the ground is outside loading docks or warehouses, or on the street near exits for those. They're usually big copper staples from boxes, or steel ones from pallets.
atcspaul
10 W
that makes sense amberwolf. wasn't trying to be smart it just didn't make sense to me. guess i been living on an island to long
cal3thousand
10 MW
atcspaul said:
My last flat was a staple. Thick enough to pierce a tire, liner, and tube.
Architectonic
10 kW
In almost 5000 km, I've had:
1x nail (before Zefal tyre liner)
1x corner cutoff piece of steel fencing/roofing, somehow pushed past the tyre liner
2x punctures from sharp edges of tyre liner ends (I've now rounded them off, covered with duct tape).
Slime made a real mess and made it very difficult to patch (and made the patch fail while the bike was stationary)
2x pinch flats on rocks on trails (32 psi, down from 45 psi normally)
I've been running DMR Moto RT 2.2 and 2.4". Glass, staples don't seem to have been a problem at all.
It's always the rear tyre, which is annoying as my wires aren't long enough to remove the tube from the tyre without disconnecting the wires. So I tend to patch, wasting 15 minutes.
I'm considering going ghetto tubeless, but is it still possible to put in a tube in emergencies, without any major hassles? (I carry rubber gloves, tissue paper anyway) Also thinking of having a tube duct taped on the inside of the stay for easy swaps.
How well does ghetto tubeless hold up against nails etc?
1x nail (before Zefal tyre liner)
1x corner cutoff piece of steel fencing/roofing, somehow pushed past the tyre liner
2x punctures from sharp edges of tyre liner ends (I've now rounded them off, covered with duct tape).
Slime made a real mess and made it very difficult to patch (and made the patch fail while the bike was stationary)
2x pinch flats on rocks on trails (32 psi, down from 45 psi normally)
I've been running DMR Moto RT 2.2 and 2.4". Glass, staples don't seem to have been a problem at all.
It's always the rear tyre, which is annoying as my wires aren't long enough to remove the tube from the tyre without disconnecting the wires. So I tend to patch, wasting 15 minutes.
I'm considering going ghetto tubeless, but is it still possible to put in a tube in emergencies, without any major hassles? (I carry rubber gloves, tissue paper anyway) Also thinking of having a tube duct taped on the inside of the stay for easy swaps.
How well does ghetto tubeless hold up against nails etc?
