Doctorbass
100 GW
bump :|
Doc
Doc
Re: 5KW 72V Controller 36 #4410 FET's, $108 #4110's $154
- Thread starter Gordo
- Start date
Gordo
100 kW
John in CR got one. I'm doing a Lebowski. Eventually.
The Mighty Volt
1 MW
Doctorbass said:
Doc, I have posted some photos of the Mosfets in one of the controllers I bought.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10655&start=150
Today I will open up the 72v 24 Fet and take some more photos and post them so people can see what the FET's look like.
Thanks.
John in CR
100 TW
I keep telling my son we need to test the Leo 36fet, but he's yet to put it on Clown Bike. The thing is too big a brick to put on my SuperV without making a behind the seat rack. Plus Hubmonster deserves the Super36 I got from SteveO, but I've been lazy about the needed phase wire upgrade to push on Hubmonster's limits. SteveO ran it at 300A battery side with a 5303, so hopefully it will survive Hubmonster at 150-200A.
The Leo 18fet with 4110's, while being a bit light on the phase wires and traces, has been driving the high efficiency test motor at 70A peaks for a couple of months now without a hitch, which are proving to be hands down the best motors I've gotten my mitts on. I just need to work out making one very mid-drive friendly for the guys wanting to run bicycle size wheels.
The Leo 18fet with 4110's, while being a bit light on the phase wires and traces, has been driving the high efficiency test motor at 70A peaks for a couple of months now without a hitch, which are proving to be hands down the best motors I've gotten my mitts on. I just need to work out making one very mid-drive friendly for the guys wanting to run bicycle size wheels.
The Mighty Volt
1 MW
Remind the son who the father is. 
If that doesn't work, tell him he is doing it for us
The 24 Fet is huge. 36 Fet must be an animal.
If that doesn't work, tell him he is doing it for us
The 24 Fet is huge. 36 Fet must be an animal.
binlagin
100 W
.... Are these availible anymore? I'd be interested in the 4110
John in CR
100 TW
The Mighty Volt said:Remind the son who the father is.
That's a bad thing, because I'm Mr Procrastinator as long as I have a working ebike. When out of commission I'm Mr Nobreaksorsleepinguntilebikeisbackontheroad.
The Mighty Volt said:If that doesn't work, tell him he is doing it for us
That's a better approach.
The Mighty Volt said:
I'm still worried about the relative lack of caps. Does your 24fet have caps down the center channel between the fet rails?
It's a very large animal. Here's the Leo 36 (the silver breadbox) next to a Lyen 24fet (silver) and unknown scooter 30fet(black). Good thing Clown Bike has a controller rack behind the saddle, so any size controller can be accommodated. My Steveo Super36 is a monster too...not as tall or wide, but long as hell. Thank goodness my SuperV has a fat long straight downtube to accommodate that beast.
View attachment 1
OTOH the 18fet is smaller than other 18fet controllers I've had.
John
PS- Almost forgot. Here's the open end of my Leo36. The green circle was for me asking him about the lack of fets in that channel, to which his tech guys said was correct. I post the pic because you can see the copper power rails protruding below the board....No traces I need to beef up on this puppy.
The Mighty Volt
1 MW
Howdy John, thanks for the info and the picture. I am not at home right now but I will whip that 24 Fet open and post a photo.
What is the significance of the number of caps?
Can we add more of our own??? Should we?? One other observation I had in the 24 FET was the singeing of a few of the wires, and some sloppy finishing. Nothing too-too serious.
If you could do me a favour and post a picture- any picture- of a FET in the LEO I would be grateful- I am still a bit sketchy about the grubby writing on mine, cheers.
Regards
T.
What is the significance of the number of caps?
Can we add more of our own??? Should we??
One other observation I had in the 24 FET was the singeing of a few of the wires, and some sloppy finishing. Nothing too-too serious.If you could do me a favour and post a picture- any picture- of a FET in the LEO I would be grateful- I am still a bit sketchy about the grubby writing on mine, cheers.
Regards
T.
The Mighty Volt
1 MW
Capacitors of the 24 Mosfet Leo
Trace Of The 24 Mosfet Leo
Alleged 4110 Mosfets Of The Leo 24 Fet
Shot Of How Close The Board Comes To The External Case.
The General Size Of The 24 Fet Leo
From Left to Right-
24 Mosfet Leo
18 Mosfet Lyen
15 Mosfet Hua Tong
12 Mosfet Lyen
12 Mosfet Leo
Trace Of The 24 Mosfet Leo
Alleged 4110 Mosfets Of The Leo 24 Fet
Shot Of How Close The Board Comes To The External Case.
The General Size Of The 24 Fet Leo
From Left to Right-
24 Mosfet Leo
18 Mosfet Lyen
15 Mosfet Hua Tong
12 Mosfet Lyen
12 Mosfet Leo
Rumberopie
10 mW
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2011
- Messages
- 22
Looks really good.
What are the measures for the 24Fet?
I wait for the first test!
What are the measures for the 24Fet?
I wait for the first test!
grindz145
1 MW
Man, the heatsink on the 36 Fet controllers are just BEGGING for water cooling.
The Mighty Volt
1 MW
grindz145 said:
How do you mean? You mean they are well adapted to it, or absolutely need it???
John in CR
100 TW
The 36fet is working like a charm driving a hard to drive 2 turn motor. My son has an LFP size EV grin now. We beefed up the battery and tomorrow will get regen going and connect a CA. Now that he's close to double the acceleration of mine off the line, I need to finish my upgrades to the Sheriff and get Hubmonster back on the road. It's been itching to remind some others which hubmotor is the true king of the hill.
Everyone's heard of downhill racing. Well, we'll get a couple of video cameras and put together a clip of what uphill street racing is like. We'll start with just a warmup on grades similar to the Pikes Peak climb and then get into the nasty 20-30% continuous grade that make the vast majority of ebikes cry for mercy.
John
PS- If you mount the 36 where you might brush against either end, be sure to round off the ends of those heat sink fins with a file. I barely brushed my shin on the controller getting aboard Clown Bike, and now it looks like a miniature Freddy Krueger attacked my leg.
PSS- I want to do some real stress testing before signing off on this controller, but it's looking good so far.
Everyone's heard of downhill racing. Well, we'll get a couple of video cameras and put together a clip of what uphill street racing is like. We'll start with just a warmup on grades similar to the Pikes Peak climb and then get into the nasty 20-30% continuous grade that make the vast majority of ebikes cry for mercy.
John
PS- If you mount the 36 where you might brush against either end, be sure to round off the ends of those heat sink fins with a file. I barely brushed my shin on the controller getting aboard Clown Bike, and now it looks like a miniature Freddy Krueger attacked my leg.
PSS- I want to do some real stress testing before signing off on this controller, but it's looking good so far.
The Mighty Volt
1 MW
Cheers John, thats good to hear. Maybe the grubby finish on the FET's is just that- a grubby finish, and no more.
What you make of the Capacitors? I don't know shit from shynola when it comes to controller design, but I see lots of caps....not sure if that means anything of course.
I am thinking of mounting mine on the underneath of the BMX, so hopefully no accidents.
What you make of the Capacitors? I don't know shit from shynola when it comes to controller design, but I see lots of caps....not sure if that means anything of course.
I am thinking of mounting mine on the underneath of the BMX, so hopefully no accidents.
John in CR
100 TW
3 caps on the input is ok, since I run big packs and try to reduce the battery loop and the inductance that comes with it. Only 3 moderate size caps protecting the FETs makes me a bit nervous though, especially when I see open circles for caps, 2 outside the heat spreader bar. Inside the channel of the heat spreader I see no circles so I guess it's okay that it's free of caps unlike my Lyen 24fet. Also, the distinct grouping of 6fets each, X 3 for each phase input and X 3 for each output side seems good to me. I've got lots of space and real estate, so if I buy more of them I'll get some of those fancy snubber caps BigMoose recommends to properly protect the mosfets and go to crazy power.
The proof is in the pudding. Every controller runs hot with these motors, so if this beast runs significantly cooler at 100A battery side and higher, then it really is a beast AFAIC, since I'm a caveman when it comes to electronics and pick up only a tiny bit of what the gurus share, so I only know a lot as a user not about the operation.
The proof is in the pudding. Every controller runs hot with these motors, so if this beast runs significantly cooler at 100A battery side and higher, then it really is a beast AFAIC, since I'm a caveman when it comes to electronics and pick up only a tiny bit of what the gurus share, so I only know a lot as a user not about the operation.
The Mighty Volt
1 MW
Cheers John thanks for the info. Delighted to hear some positive news back from your end.
Any idea where to start looking for replacement caps? Do I just punch in "100v Snubbers" and pick up the first thing I see??
Don't worry about not knowing the tech stuff- I don't either. Our trial runs combined with the tech of guys like BigMoose should give people a rough idea. As Fechter says, one test is worth 1000 opinions.
I will be using a pre-charge resistor in any case, to try to take things easy on the caps on the intake side.
Seems like maybe, maybe, we might just be getting somewhere.
Now we just gotta figure out a way to program these suckers
Any idea where to start looking for replacement caps? Do I just punch in "100v Snubbers" and pick up the first thing I see??
Don't worry about not knowing the tech stuff- I don't either. Our trial runs combined with the tech of guys like BigMoose should give people a rough idea. As Fechter says, one test is worth 1000 opinions.
I will be using a pre-charge resistor in any case, to try to take things easy on the caps on the intake side.
Seems like maybe, maybe, we might just be getting somewhere.
Now we just gotta figure out a way to program these suckers
Gordo
100 kW
ZOMGVTEK said:
You could try reading the thread.
Look for Leo Lu @ greentime.John in CR
100 TW
China
The Mighty Volt
1 MW
John in CR said:
lol
That ought to narrow it down.
Pump "China" and "Controller" into Google.
Then just add time.
auraslip
10 MW
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2010
- Messages
- 3,535
Anyone manage to figure out all the features on these like regen and how to hook up a cycle analyst?
Also, how to change the voltage levels? I figured out how to change the LVC on the 15 fet models a while back. Easy as changing a single SMD resistor.
Also, how to change the voltage levels? I figured out how to change the LVC on the 15 fet models a while back. Easy as changing a single SMD resistor.
The Mighty Volt
1 MW
Mine came with the CA-DP tap pre-soldered in for me. I can try to dig out a photo for the wiring diagram, it will be a while yet before I whip open the controller again, as I am smack-bang in the business of trying to build a battery right now.
As for the Regen, I do not have a clue what its about or how to go setting it up. If Regen is as hard on the tyre as I have heard then I wont bother. Its not needed for my riding style in any case.
As for the Regen, I do not have a clue what its about or how to go setting it up. If Regen is as hard on the tyre as I have heard then I wont bother. Its not needed for my riding style in any case.
John in CR
100 TW
Regen is just sent 5-12 volts up the regen wire on mine, which was the white wire. I'll just get my 5V from the hall supply or throttle supply, since I don't feel like opening that controller again.
I don't have a clue where an idea about regen being hard on tires came from, unless it was significantly strong regen resulting in a jerky result. With my speedier wound hubbies regen is smooth and soft, so it's a matter of getting used to how far before a stop to engage it and then add a touch of mechanical braking right at the end. Brake maintenance is now almost non-existent, my favorite part of regen. It's also a great safety feature going down hills. On very steep downhills continuous regen keeps speeds plenty slow. On grades less than -10% I have to do intermittent regen. I consistently get 8-10% regen recovery and even higher when I ride harder and faster, so that much more range.
To me regen is a must on any DD ebike. Sure it needs to be tuned properly, which may be difficult with a non-progammable controller. My Leo 36 is supposed to be set at regen force High, but if that end up too strong, but I found a jumper that connects next to my regen wire on that board which I'm hoping is to create high. If so then I can wire a switch in to give me regen high/low at the handlebars.
If that doesn't work, I'll try some other stuff. eg Another scooter controller had a wire described as regen high on the sticker, but I couldn't get regen to engage at all with that wire. I tried to ground and I tried to +5v, even +12 since it was a scooter controller. What I found was that interrupting the power to the halls is what activated regen, which may very well be what all sensored controllers do to make sure you don't even end up power and regen at the same time. That activated low force regen, and then that regen high wire connected to ground gave high force. While variable regen would be the ideal, low/high regen on command works very well.
I don't have a clue where an idea about regen being hard on tires came from, unless it was significantly strong regen resulting in a jerky result. With my speedier wound hubbies regen is smooth and soft, so it's a matter of getting used to how far before a stop to engage it and then add a touch of mechanical braking right at the end. Brake maintenance is now almost non-existent, my favorite part of regen. It's also a great safety feature going down hills. On very steep downhills continuous regen keeps speeds plenty slow. On grades less than -10% I have to do intermittent regen. I consistently get 8-10% regen recovery and even higher when I ride harder and faster, so that much more range.
To me regen is a must on any DD ebike. Sure it needs to be tuned properly, which may be difficult with a non-progammable controller. My Leo 36 is supposed to be set at regen force High, but if that end up too strong, but I found a jumper that connects next to my regen wire on that board which I'm hoping is to create high. If so then I can wire a switch in to give me regen high/low at the handlebars.
If that doesn't work, I'll try some other stuff. eg Another scooter controller had a wire described as regen high on the sticker, but I couldn't get regen to engage at all with that wire. I tried to ground and I tried to +5v, even +12 since it was a scooter controller. What I found was that interrupting the power to the halls is what activated regen, which may very well be what all sensored controllers do to make sure you don't even end up power and regen at the same time. That activated low force regen, and then that regen high wire connected to ground gave high force. While variable regen would be the ideal, low/high regen on command works very well.
