small update -
bike's FINALLY spinning the motor! only no-load so far, and looks like the adaptto is going to need a fair bit of tuning, but it at least works. Looks ugly as a pig right now though, wires still going everywhere. I've aslo had to go with a split pack to get all the cells on this frame, i think i'll change it to try and get more cells on the frame once i've had a few cycles on these packs and know there's no duds after they've sat on the bench for a few months. quick and dirty for now though...
interestingly ive currently got the no load amps down <4A at WOT, a bit less than the rated 4-4.5A. still sounds a bit rough though so might still be improvements to be had yet, I've only played with the offset ang so far.
I had to do the autodetect about 4 times before it even worked at all - first 3 times it just lost sync and pumped massive heat into the motor (wasn't hot... but defiantly very warm, phase wires too!). 4th time it worked ok, but ive changed the ang offset from -4 to about +5 and its spinning atleast 2x as fast, and less amps too.
BMS is also working properly now. given the split pack i've got 2 of the cut off boards with the smaller pack on the frame, and the other 4 (the ''base' board) in with the other pack on the handlebars. it was a pretty simple matter to reconfig though so that the 2 i've cut off are now packs '1' and '2', and the 3 on the bars are now '4,5,6' rather than the default '1,2,3'. this adaptto is a great bit of kit so far... it'll be interesting though to see how it manages this small, low R/L high kv motor...
im planning on using the old ht35 as a dummy load - it should bolt easily onto the bike, making a adapter to the current sproket mount shouldn't be too hard, and then i can hook the phase wires up to a dummy load (ie resistor bank) to get a consistent load to tune the controller against. ill probably aim around the 500-1kw mark, depending on how quick things heat up while sitting still (and not being tuned yet).
Depending on how things go i might try and spin the motor up with a different motor, and seeing how the output of the controller matches up with the back EMF of the motor (ie with the phase wires disconnected) to see if that can help me dial in the offsets even better. nice trick i learned from uni, but needs a oscilloscope and 2nd motor+controller to work
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