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the batteries are XDS4815-BAK. the controller was sold as a 40a 96v. it has to be one of the batteries bms cuz voltmeter reads no volts until i disconnect the pack from controller. it works if i quickly tap the connector a few times instead of plugging it straight in. hub motor is sacrificial at this time cuz i know it was made for 1000w. just wondering why i gotta tap them to keep bms from cutting out.What are all the parts in your system that connect to the battery rated for?
Are both the BMS in your 48v batteries designed to handle the full charge voltage of both batteries in series? If not, they can be damaged by this, so that they can't protect your cells against overcharge or overdischarge.
That is much higher than 96v. If they are 13s batteries, typical lithium cells, that's 13 x 2 x 4.2v = 109.2v.
If your controller is not designed for at least 120v, it may be damaged by this, if not during connection, then during operation because voltages generated while moving can exceed the battery voltage.
If you're using this controller
then it's unlikely to work correctly in this application.72v controller wiring.
i am hoping for some help. i am wondering what the green and brown wires that are soldered to the blue phase wire are used for? i am wondering what the a3 litht blue wire is. i think it brakes but maybe a security wheel lock. i am wondering if this can regen and how. i am wondering if i could...
If you have other parts (DC-DC for lights, etc) they must also be rated at least that high a voltage.
If your motor is designed to run at a specific speed at a specific voltage (most are labelled that way, or sold that way in ads), then it will run proportionally higher at the higher voltage. You can calculate the new speed at full throttle if you have three of those numbers.
The spark can be mitigated with connnectors designed to be anti-spark, or with a precharge setup (there are many posts on both of these if you poke around the forum). You can also do it by always leaving the battery connected, and just turning them off at their BMS, if the BMS has a control input for this.
Kinda hard to tell based on your description but could it be an intermittent connection? Bad solder joint? So when you tap it you are jarring it into continuity?
that is my worry. however i did just plug this battery in while in series about 4 times. leaving it plugged together a couple seconds each time to check throttle only to discover i was plugging in negative to positive and positive to negative each time. the bms clearly handled that cuz once i fixed the wiring it worked with the tap tap tap method i mentioned.
turns out that green wire does not to actually work as ebs. so to be clear you experience the need to tap tap tap to plug battery in without it cutting power also?
: yep, man-safety procedure, when plugging in thing that goes pop and sparks, turn your head so your chemically damaged weaker right eye is not exposed.Oh no, I have a few connectors on my bench that look like they have done double time as spot welders. They pop from inrush and when they get a little out of shape I take a small file to them. I am not impressed by electrical sparks, when you see them, they are not going through you. so they are happy things...
I think I may have a permanent camera dot in my left eye though ;
That's covered a bit in my reply to him above...second post in the thread.
