Sport EV & delivery EV

[CroDriver]

Long story short: I'm not going to build the components in a RX-8. This BMW used to be my race/fun car so I'm using it now to get some practice and test the components before building them into a "serious" car. Once I prove that this setup is OK, I'll build the components into a supercar chassis

Some old and new photos:

 

[CroDriver]

A few weeks and it could be rolling! Yeah

 

[vanilla ice]

That is a better car anyway.

 

[CroDriver]

That is a better car anyway.

Yea, you're probably right. I love this old BMW, but Average Joe just thinks that that it's a old and ugly bimmer

 

[vanilla ice]

Word, and not just Joe but more importantly the females! For sure it wont be as much a P-dropper as the rx8.

I've always wanted an e30 with one of them 6-banger m3'r swaps.. on my top five reasonably attainable car list. Awesome project btw.

 

[CroDriver]

I know... The parts look wrecked but they are in good shape after 20 years of service. They will get many new parts...

The weight distribution will not be optimal now. The rear batteries will probably come under the hood to achieve a 50-50 weight distribution

Roll bar, sport seats and lithium batteries. Probably the first time together in one car, but definetly not the last time. Man, that's pioneer work

 

[liveforphysics]

Beautiful!
Beautiful!
Beautiful!


I love this build!

 

[thomas]

Wow impressive, wish i had that kind of money to spend on batteries.

Will you put some batteries at the front as well to eve the weight out or is the motor enough for that?

 

[CroDriver]

Wow impressive, wish i had that kind of money to spend on batteries.

Will you put some batteries at the front as well to eve the weight out or is the motor enough for that?

This batteries will stay in the car only till I purchase a few thousand A123's

So I think I won't bother with the ThunderSkys... They will come into another car later

 

[thomas]

Wow impressive, wish i had that kind of money to spend on batteries.

Will you put some batteries at the front as well to eve the weight out or is the motor enough for that?

This batteries will stay in the car only till I purchase a few thousand A123's

So I think I won't bother with the ThunderSkys... They will come into another car later

Ill happily help you get rid of them

 

[vanilla ice]

I did not realize you could get a brand new rx8 for under 30k. Also did not realize the engine was so weak compared to its piston engine competitors.. nissan 3.7L makes 100hp more with better fuel economy!

What do the thundsky's lack in performance anyway? Are they good for like 10c or what?

 

[CroDriver]

I did not realize you could get a brand new rx8 for under 30k. Also did not realize the engine was so weak compared to its piston engine competitors.. nissan 3.7L makes 100hp more with better fuel economy!

What do the thundsky's lack in performance anyway? Are they good for like 10c or what?

Yeah, the Mazda Wankel motor is pretty weak.

The ThunderSkys are safe up to 3C.

5C is probably still OK but 10C is too much for them, even if the new specs claim 20C "impulse". Impulse means 1 sec discharge and 5 sec pause in this case

 

[CroDriver]

After a 4 week long fight with my customs office, the Croatian postal service and the half country, today I finally picked up the last component for the BMW





Cool sticker James, thanks

 

[vanilla ice]

Awesome blossom!

 

[CroDriver]

Still lots of work to do. I'm just getting warmed up

 

[thomas]

I foresee some dead thunder sky cells very soon

Love the picture of the whole drive train looks almost like theres not enough space for the 2nd motor in the last picture

 

[CroDriver]

I foresee some dead thunder sky cells very soon

Love the picture of the whole drive train looks almost like theres not enough space for the 2nd motor in the last picture

Don't worry, there is enough space. The TunderSkys will be replaced with Headways or A123s, I'm still not sure since the price difference isn't small and a Headway pack is easier to make since they have screw terminals.

Here fell some snow so purchased winter tires today. Tomorrow I'll do some pioneer work - EV snow drifting

 

[JRP3]

Don't worry, there is enough space. The TunderSkys will be replaced with Headways or A123s, I'm still not sure since the price difference isn't small and a Headway pack is easier to make since they have screw terminals.

Have you looked at Lifetech cells? http://lithbattoz.com.au/More expensive than Headways, I assume less expensive than A123.

 

[vanilla ice]

Snow tires.. snow battery. The lack of traction should keep the TS pack happy! Swap out to your summer tires and "summer battery" when the road can take the amps..

 

[liveforphysics]

Don't worry, there is enough space. The TunderSkys will be replaced with Headways or A123s, I'm still not sure since the price difference isn't small and a Headway pack is easier to make since they have screw terminals.

You could be just fine if you kept the ThunderSky's just like they are, and secured an A123 20Ah pouch cell across the terminals of each cell. This kinda makes for an ideally cost-optimized battery, as the ThunderSky's carry the energy you need very cheaply, and the A123 pouch cell's are there to get the Ri down to avoid voltage sag, and to give the pack an extra 600amp capability. It's neat how cells of identical chemistry function when directly parallel'd. The A123 carries the brunt of the current during hard discharge, but as this means the SOC voltage is always higher in the TS cell, it's continuously re-charging the A123 cell as quickly as it can, and they work to always equalize state-of-charge between each other. Cheap range from the Thunder Sky battery bank you've all ready got, and for $50/20Ah A123 cell, you get tons of the power you were lacking, and a low Ri pack that will hold its voltage solid. Double win!

 

[liveforphysics]

Don't worry, there is enough space. The TunderSkys will be replaced with Headways or A123s, I'm still not sure since the price difference isn't small and a Headway pack is easier to make since they have screw terminals.

Have you looked at Lifetech cells? http://lithbattoz.com.au/More expensive than Headways, I assume less expensive than A123.

20Ah A123 cells for $50 means you can get premium LiFePO4 for less than LifeTech cells even. It's a good day to be building EV's!

 

[JRP3]

Yeah I've just been reading about the availability of the A123's. I hope it's a good constant supply and not a one time thing.

 

[liveforphysics]

Yeah I've just been reading about the availability of the A123's. I hope it's a good constant supply and not a one time thing.

As long as "brand discretion" is used, it should be a constant supply thing. Otherwise, hell, buy them while available right?

 

[mwkeefer]

Great build(s)!

I'm curious... the adapter plates you made for the drive side of those electrics, am I mistaken or are those pictures of you balancing the plates?

So the plates are more "solid harmonic dampeners" that drive couplings or adapter plates? Were the motors imbalanced out of the box?

That has to be the single largest power pack I've ever seen (maybe less than a tesla but... wow)... do tell, how many KFF (burnt finger) incidents have you had now?

I may be joining the eCar conversion shortly... I used to own a 69 camaro, it was my favorite but sadly I didn't have the $$$ for a frame off restoration or refurb of the car and the Rust Gods took the inner quarters. A friend has spent the past 4 years building a 69 RS the right way (that I didn't have money for) but now he is lay off from work and just offered to sell me the Maro... CHEAP.

This isn't original body (mostly fiberglass replacements, where possible) and though he has the original 302, it's blown and he just sold the motor that was intended for the marao (a 383 stroker 4bolt)...

Long story short... The price is right for the rolling chasis and body, I have an interior (never installed in the old 69 but I kept it) and if I do an EV conversion then who cares about the motor and transmission? I still need to calculate the costs (and I may go series hybrid just to save on pack cost) but I think the EV conversion will be cheaper (since I know how to do most of this myself now) and I know it will be cooler and much more fun.

I will continue to watch your build thread for inspiration and if you get the late model BMW going... you just may push me to crate and store my Z4 motor and trans for an EV conversion (that would be sick!).

-Mike

 

[CroDriver]

Don't worry, there is enough space. The TunderSkys will be replaced with Headways or A123s, I'm still not sure since the price difference isn't small and a Headway pack is easier to make since they have screw terminals.

You could be just fine if you kept the ThunderSky's just like they are, and secured an A123 20Ah pouch cell across the terminals of each cell. This kinda makes for an ideally cost-optimized battery, as the ThunderSky's carry the energy you need very cheaply, and the A123 pouch cell's are there to get the Ri down to avoid voltage sag, and to give the pack an extra 600amp capability. It's neat how cells of identical chemistry function when directly parallel'd. The A123 carries the brunt of the current during hard discharge, but as this means the SOC voltage is always higher in the TS cell, it's continuously re-charging the A123 cell as quickly as it can, and they work to always equalize state-of-charge between each other. Cheap range from the Thunder Sky battery bank you've all ready got, and for $50/20Ah A123 cell, you get tons of the power you were lacking, and a low Ri pack that will hold its voltage solid. Double win!

Are you sure that this is possible? What if I pull 2000Amps out of that pack? I assume that the TS cells would sag below 1V and be permanently damaged.

Btw. People think that TS cells are worse than there really are. They are just fine for the price. Cars are different than bike, most of them don't need over 3C since they are used as commuters. A car needs a lot of batteries so the price is very important. I have to add +50% of the purchasing price for duties and shipping!

Yeah I've just been reading about the availability of the A123's. I hope it's a good constant supply and not a one time thing.

Aviability of A123 cells? Are you speaking about these Chinese ebay sellers?

Great build(s)!

I'm curious... the adapter plates you made for the drive side of those electrics, am I mistaken or are those pictures of you balancing the plates?

So the plates are more "solid harmonic dampeners" that drive couplings or adapter plates? Were the motors imbalanced out of the box?

That has to be the single largest power pack I've ever seen (maybe less than a tesla but... wow)... do tell, how many KFF (burnt finger) incidents have you had now?

I may be joining the eCar conversion shortly... I used to own a 69 camaro, it was my favorite but sadly I didn't have the $$$ for a frame off restoration or refurb of the car and the Rust Gods took the inner quarters. A friend has spent the past 4 years building a 69 RS the right way (that I didn't have money for) but now he is lay off from work and just offered to sell me the Maro... CHEAP.

This isn't original body (mostly fiberglass replacements, where possible) and though he has the original 302, it's blown and he just sold the motor that was intended for the marao (a 383 stroker 4bolt)...

Long story short... The price is right for the rolling chasis and body, I have an interior (never installed in the old 69 but I kept it) and if I do an EV conversion then who cares about the motor and transmission? I still need to calculate the costs (and I may go series hybrid just to save on pack cost) but I think the EV conversion will be cheaper (since I know how to do most of this myself now) and I know it will be cooler and much more fun.

I will continue to watch your build thread for inspiration and if you get the late model BMW going... you just may push me to crate and store my Z4 motor and trans for an EV conversion (that would be sick!).

-Mike

All rotating parts have to be balanced right on the shaft since the motor is not perfect. I even had to mount "only" one motor for now since the motors vibrate at high RPMs if coupled together. I will rebuild all the "non-electric" parts of the motor (housing, shaft...) later and then build in both motors.