Lurkin
100 kW
I'm not really following what you have done, but I think you get the gist of it. The more accurate you get your measurements, the more accurate your spoke length will be, the easier the wheel build.
amberwolf said:If you cross spoke 4 under spoke [1] so they press against each other when under tension, then the wheel may be stronger under loads that would otherwise let them go slack, if the one pressing against the other keeps it from losing as much tension as the wheel rotates, hits bumps, etc.
And so on with the rest of them.
Aeron said:[img=https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1-FnZENx-HRswMpmPAxAIGquk1Wo7F9J1][/img]
Should I leave the wheel as it is right now or rebuild it 1 cross ?
Most large 1000w hub-motors are "straight-laced" into 20" bike rims and is completely unsatisfactory in every way imaginable.
Aeron said:
Chalo said:Most large 1000w hub-motors are "straight-laced" into 20" bike rims and is completely unsatisfactory in every way imaginable.
There was a time I would have thought so, too. But when the hub motor is fairly close to the diameter of the rim, that's probably your best bet, unless you feel like drilling extra holes in your hub.
I radially laced my X5305 to a very sturdy 20" BMX rim, and it's had no problems at all. The spokes are only 68mm long, but they've stayed tight and the wheel has stayed perfectly true. It's the front wheel of my front loading cycle truck, so it has to cope with large amounts of dead weight pounding on it. So far so good.
Chalo said:If you use a 16" motorcycle rim, you may be able to get one with spoke holes oriented for the oblique angles of your spokes. And you will have a rim that can take very high tension on thick 12ga or 10ga spokes. If you're going to load two adults over essentially only one wheel, it may as well be a motorcycle wheel.
Most large 1000w hub-motors are "straight-laced" into 20" bike rims and is completely unsatisfactory in every way imaginable.
There was a time I would have thought so, too. But when the hub motor is fairly close to the diameter of the rim, that's probably your best bet, unless you feel like drilling extra holes in your hub.
I radially laced my X5305 to a very sturdy 20" BMX rim, and it's had no problems at all. The spokes are only 68mm long, but they've stayed tight and the wheel has stayed perfectly true. It's the front wheel of my front loading cycle truck, so it has to cope with large amounts of dead weight pounding on it. So far so good.
Chalo said:With a little use, your spokes will break at the threads. They might do so even if you use cross-1 lacing. But they'll have a better chance.
If there is any difference in angle between the spoke nipple and the spoke exiting it, the chances are good you will have breakages at the threaded ends.
Ozzzz said:This looks like the first rim I laced. Iv'e not laced many but is this caused by the nipple head sitting flat on the eyelet (inside the rim)? Or is it the nipple shaft held at that angle inside the eyelet? I'm wondering if those little cup shaped washers wouldn't set it up at a different angle?
hias9 said:When lacing a rear hub motor in a one-cross pattern with all the spokes exiting on the same side, do you put the spokes which are stretched on acceleration on the outside (like it is done in the Grin lacing YouTube video), do you put them on the inside or do you put them diffently on the right side than on the left side?
y Stormsorter » Aug 22 2021 3:45pm
Just built my first wheel but feel like the spokes should be closer to the flange especially on the inside. Should I get some washers to try and bring them closer or just role with it? This is a 24" rim using Sapim Strong's and DT Swiss 350 Boost on a 1500w mid drive cargo bike with 240 pound rider if that info helps. Oh and my cheap spoke gauge claims about 120kg on the drive side and 80 on the brake side so they should be tight enough.
While writing this I remembered I had some M3 washers so I played with them and the front hub. The inside spokes on the front hub could probably use a washer and the outside didn't but I did discover that it wouldn't make the spoke lay flat against the flange like I had hoped. Since the rear hub is about 0.6mm thicker washers are probably not going to help. I tried to use a crank arm as a prybar to press the inside spokes closer to the flange but they wouldn't budge. Should I unlace it and try to bend the spokes against the flange or just leave it be and hope for the best?
And if anyone finds this trying to see if Sapim Strong's or any 2.3mm spokes fit the DT Swiss 350 they don't. I had to drill them out from 2.6 to 2.75mm and still had to force them a tiny bit at the bend. They actually fit the 350 front hub with flange thickness of about 3.25mm but rear hub flange is around 3.85mm. This is what I get for relying on first and only post I found on a random forum when I searched for "DT Swiss 350 Sapim Strong".