Tidal Force : "The Long Ranger"

You and Doctorbass have the same problem!

http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=18473&start=90#p301525

Be safe out there!

Ambrose
 
I want to trade my functional and working 5303 for a 5305. This 5303 is very hard on motor controllers and my understanding is the higher the turns the easier it is on controller. I want to straight up trade maybe with some $$$ incentive with someone for their 5305 if they want my 5303. Im also entertaing the idea of converting mine to a 5306. Its a loss of speed but i could throw more volts at it and the controller would be barely luke warm.

PM if you are intrested.

Looking back at everything this motor is very solid at 44v. 42mph top speed with alot of torque if you throw the amps at it. I know once I get my controller fix Im pretty much going to keep it at 44v probably because its more than enough and I cant afford the 18-36fet controller this whore needs. Im also considering changing it into a 5306. It shouldnt be that much work. Im going to draw a sketch up and let me know if my drawing is correct before I commit to the changeover if no one bites at my offer.
 
I am curious, How fast the 5304 and 5305 at 44v nominal LiPo since you mentioned 5303 runs 42 mph using your LiPo 44v nominal. GCinDC's 9x7 9c motor hub pretty FAST.

Is that true Crystalayte 5300 series eat lot wh/hr than 9c hub motor?

BTW keep up video record, love see your bike blew every lycra cyclist :lol:
 
Keep in mind that electric riders site mentions that this motor can do 37-38mph on 48v. This maybe 48v sla. So factor in voltage sag. Also keep in mind that Im using lipo. This is a little bit stiffer and starts out at a higher voltage than SLA. Then factor in that I have the timing advance on my controller enabled which speeds the motor up 2-3mph. With all those factors i was able to get that speed. Im a little fluffy so I bet if I was alot lighter and maybe had an aero form I could get 45mph.

GinDC runs 18s or 66v nominal and it is sweet.
I ran a true 72v nominal on my old GM and that was very nice also.

At 44v with an agressive controller profile of 115A Phase and 45 battery. Which was actually 60-85A Battery Current. I was doing 60wh on the nose everytime I went out at 44v. At 66v and the same settings I was doing 80wh/mi.

Im sure if you got a 5304 or a 5305 the consumption would go down because the would be running more efficient. They could get to speed quicker and generate back EMF easier to tame phase currents.

Its easy to blow past them. They put up a good fight with my pedaling and mild assist. I like to either ride behind them and kinda push them like an agressive driver riding behind you in traffic. I also like to surprise them when we make stops to cross streets. The speed and acceleration catches them off gaurd and they try to catch up. If its a really slow day on the trail i would speed up and leave them or set pace for them to draft me. They also speed up alot trying to shake you. I could blow past them at anytime. But the area of the trail i frequent are high traffic areas. If were a less congested area I would let her rip. But on a niced paved trail like we have here do you need to ride 25-30-35mph...
 
Icecube,
I want private roads through the wilderness like your paths, but no one allowed without invitation or permission 2 days a week for me to ride just as fast as I want without concern about pedestrians or slow bikers blocking my way. It's open to the public the other 5 days. That or just some e-bike Autobahn type trails with no pedestrians and a right lane for the pedalists or otherwise sub 30mph riding. I'll take my chances with wildlife or fallen trees to ride trails like that WOT. Imagine an electric velomobile at 60-70mph or more on your routes with nothing in the way, no intersections for miles, and the trees to generally block cross winds. That would be a scream!
John
 
I have to wait for a day like right after it rains then I have the whole trail to my self. 2-3 miles I might see 1 person . Slow down out of courtesy and back to business. Im pretty sure if we drummed up enough support and got permits that Paulding County would probably allow some EV drag race event or something if planning and waivers were issued. The trail is 65 miles long. PAVED!!!. It wouldnt be that hard to resevere 2-3 rarely used miles. Pretty smooth. Could allow for good speed trials. We could set up a mini NERDA event for ebikes. The whole trails is 2% grade max. No sharp curves.

http://www.pathfoundation.org/pathfoundationfiles/TripGuide.pdf
General Trail Overview

http://www.pathfoundation.org/pathfoundationfiles/AccessAmenitiesMileage.pdf
Mileage and Elevation chart

Ive rode between D-P on a single charge with 3-4AH to spare on my 1.4kw Thundersky Pack I had.

Floyd Rd/Silver Comet Depot to Grady Rd/Cedartown 83 miles. Took about 6 hours to make the round trip.
 
So apparently I did a number on my controller when it blew. Lyen has put a bandaid on and I should get it back shortly.

I may get my wheel trued this week. They trued it once. The wheel has settled after 200 miles. Has a little wobble. Take it back in for a little touch up tender loving care. After that I maybe able to tighten the gap on the brakes to make them work more effectively

Ebikes are expensive. I just made several purchases today.

One was the Multi button from Hyena. I mainly wanted a button for regenerative braking. But he has a nice cluster thas all in one. S15.50.
imag015.jpg


I also bought this keychain camera. Supposedly shoots pretty good video. I plan to put a small 1inch square of velcro on the frame on the flat area of the headtube.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Version-3-Keychain-Spy-Camera-4GB-Memory-Card-1Hr-/230511942942?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0

I bought a West Mountain Radio TriCrimper Today
I also watched alot of videos and read alot of forums to help me make better connectors. One tip is to tin the wire, crimp on the connector, and heat the connector back up until the solder flows and you have a good solid very conductive low resistance connector. Make sure the connector is straight. Ive had a habit of bending them slightly downward. Dont force it. It makes the hump flat and causes poor connection.
25 sets of 30A Connectors/Housings
25 45A connectors
I also bought a fuse from them Its a 40A inline fuse. One is on the positive and negative lines. It has 10G wire and Andersons On each end. That was to the tune of about 80+ bucks.
Ive spent about 200$ On my bike. Im going to have to put those Turnigy Lipo Packs off for another week or month. I got a wedding coming up in less than a month.
 
Great video. That's some serious speed you're doing! Nice!

Ambrose
 
I go pretty fast in all my videos but the original speed seems very slow. I double the speed in most of my videos and it actually closely mimics how the ride really felt. The average speed was High 20s to low 30s.The top speed was 42mph. Consumption little over 1AH a mile with agressive riding with little pedaling on starts up to 15mph.

After riding a while you can tell when the motor is saturated with heat. Not that its anywhere near hot or overheating but there is a performance decrease and cogging/drag increases on mine it seems. When you let off the throttle you dont coast as well as you do when the motor is cold. You loose some torque too. Alot the high power setups dont notice it that much cause they throw crazy amps at their motor or they run higher turn motor but this motor is really starving for more phase current. At 66v its a night and day difference. Im running at 44v and 45A. It seems spunky but tame. Just enough power to piss you off. I see maybe 2500w peak some times. I will ride 66v again one day but I will tune the controller back to 35A to keep the wattage about the same.



To review on the fuse holder I bought. http://www.powerwerx.com/fuse-holders-fuses/atc-inline-fuse-holders-powerpoles-10-gauge.html It protects the hot and ground. It comes with two fuse holders with 10G wire, precrimped ends with 45A anderson connectors, connector houses, and roll pins on both ends. There are 2 ATC 40A fuses in the holders. The holders seems to use a spade connector to grasp the blade which seems like a weak point to me. You can tell when you look at the fust that the connection on the blade is less than satisfactory. It seems a bit bulky and heavy. But ive been riding 40-50A constant with peaks up to 65A+ and it hadnt blow. The ride from yesterday was very agressive if it would have blow... it should have blow then. So Im satisfied with my extra line of protection. It also severs as an extension cable to reach into my bag to my battery. The overall length is about 1ft.

The controller seems very cool compared to the last one. Im using the same exact phase setting of 115A but I scaled back the battery current to 45A. Before it was allowed to peak and sustain 60-80A. High current and bad connectors was too much for it to deal with and it let out the magic smoke last time. Dont get me wrong its warm but I can leave my hand on it vs being near burning. I had no hot or deformed connectors. I was running the connectors at their rated current which is 45A. The problem I had was wire heating but it was luke warm at best. Not even that. Im running 12G. So it is slightly undersized but its in short runs. Snapping connectors together and using roll pins defintely increase the tighness of the connector. The fuse holder was heavy and was pulling out of my battery connector. I didnt slide the battery connectors together and put a roll pin in them on the battery side. After I did that the connector stop pulling out. I think im going to ask my friend for a clip that goes on the anderson that keeps connectors joined but allows you to remove it for disconnection. Zip tie it to the cable so it doesnt get lost.

I have Bell Cruiser Slicks on my bike. They are 26 x 1.95. Kinda tiny for a big guy like me. They were in my garage from build from 2 years ago. I rode them once and took them off. Still had the center seam and knobbies on the tire. I put them on this build cause a friend made me use new tires and I figured with the reduced rolling resistance I would go faster. It rides pretty smooth. Im using about 50-55 psi in them. It gives the tire enough squat to cushion the ride and increases the surface area on the road. Counter productive... I know... After I broke them in they hold the road pretty good. You can feel the tread... and its really grippy but yet smooth when you run your finger across it. In my videos I was leaning pretty far into some of the corners and I didnt feel any slippage which is nice because the entire profile on the tire is smooth. Im used to running Urban Tread that Bell makes that smooth in the middle of the tread but has knobbies on the outer edges.
 
I think I finally tamed the beast by using the "FORCE". I sat down with swblutos simulator and start plugging in some numbers. Apparently my friend DervAtl has been getting some amazing numbers as as far as efficiency and mileage goes. I thought it might have something to do with regen braking on his bike. He can get regen a whole lot easier than I can. I would ride out with him on a near level trail and his consumption would 2-4AH and I would have gone through 10AH at the end of a 20 mile ride. I dont have a problem pedaling but my gearing kinda sucks so I can pedal as fast as I would like to so i find myself on the throttle cause we never can sync our speed or cruise up so its just easier for me to use the throttle.

DervAtl rides between 13-15mph. Thats is right below the max pedaling speed for the Tidal Force. So I started plugging in numbers in swblutos simulator and found out that 35% throttle matches my pedal cadence. It predicted 13.5mph which is basically using the largest ring on the front and maybe 6 cog on the rear so im almost maxed out on gearing. I also put in my input power at 100w and the prediction says I would have 63 mile range on my 44v 10Ah pack. I downloaded the new setting into my controller and went out. And sure enough I was getting 6-7miles per AH pedaling along. My consumptions was a little over 7wh/mile and my average speed was 14.1. There weird thing is I can easily pedal past the speed. I can use the throttle and its almost like you dont even feel it helping you but if you back off the throttle you feel the assist leave even through its less than 100-200w of input at that speed. Amazing how little power makes a difference

Unassisted i was getting about 4-5 miles per AH. Which isnt bad at all but it slows down to about 12mph with no input. I may bump it up to 40% throttle so i can max out the gearing. It should put me around 17-18mph at which anything speed past that point I start to over spin the pedals. This is pretty nice.

Just for reference I used 35% throttle on SPEED 1. It had an average speed of about 13-14mph. I used 120% for SPEED 2 (default ). It tops out around 42-43mph. I used 60% throttle on SPEED 3 which puts me around 22-23mph on top speed. These dont translate well to other motors.

If I used the same settings on the 9C it would be very very slow. For the 9C 9x7 like on DervAtl's I would have to use 50% for SPEED 1 for 14mph. SPEED 2 would be 120% for around 28mph. SPEED 3 would be around 75-80% fo 20mph.

As far as I know controller amperage plays no role in the speed settings on "level" ground. So a 100A controller will not have anymore torque than a 25A controller in the flats. The current limitation is determined by the motor and what load its under. If you come to a hill then the 100A controller will maintain the speed better than the 25A only because it has more amps at its disposal. The controller only uses just enough power to maintain the speed. Due to the different limits of the controller the current ramp profile will be different. You will maintain speed better with a high current controller but you will be using more wh in process vs a lower amperage controller. The lower amperage controller will bog down or stall. If the controller is smart enough like the infineons. They change the PWM modulation when they get bogged down to better maintain the speed. Just think of it like downshifting in car.
 
I know you have Lyen controller, Why not get 3 modes switch from crystalyte set mode 1 super conserve, mode 2 standard 25mph and mode 3 turbo 120% speed? I wasn't sure if you have crystalyte 3 mode switch. Maybe it help you better management output per AH out of the battery.

3speedswitch.JPG


Since I have been watching you (5303) and GCinDC (9x7 9c motor). It seems the crystalyte motor gives lot torque and speed
than 9x7 9c motor. Maybe x5304 will give you better efficent watt per AH?
 
I have a 3 mode switch installed. Its all black and its from keywin. I was ranting above on how I personally set my 3 speeds for my bike. I was programming my controller wrong. I though Lyen hooked up SL but he didnt. I talked with lyen and cleared some stuff up. I now have a SUPER ECONOMY MODE thats around 13-15mph. I have a LEGAL 20-22mph MODE. I have a the UNRESTRICTED & OVERCLOCKED 35mph+ MODE. Even for my small pack I was getting good range in Legal and Eco Mode. Its good to know I can force miles out of my pack in Economy Mode. I shouldnt get stranded anywhere. I always look at the absolute minimum range and pedal according to atleast maintain that. If im doing well with that I will play around to blow some AH. Then when it gets tight at the end switch to eco mode and bring her back home.

I actually just recieved hyena industries multiswitch today. I hope to get my push button regen up and running today so I wont go through brake pads.
By the way why HYENA.... Why is this cord only 1ft long!!!!. What the hell am I supposed to do with that huh! =P I guess i will be splicing and extending wires tonight.... sigh.

Im very impressed with the 5303. For it to be a fast wound motor it has alot of torque through its entire power band at 44v and 45A controller. Since it has such a high KV its able to pull more amps and sustain more torque at higher speeds than the 5304 and 5305 which are quickly choked due to the BEMF they generate. What I lack is acceleration on the low end. The 5305 and 5304 can start and reach their top speed before I get halfway into my acceleration ramp. I know if i throw more amps at my motor I can get the acceleration that the 5304 and 5305 have but it would take near twice the power to do that. I could do that and have a 5 mile range toasty phase wires and hot motor and a blown controller. Its worth it when the power is decent at 44v. I will go to 66v and probably drop my controller for to 35A or 40A. There is still more torque just from the voltage increase. Even by taking 5-10A away there still an improvement in torque. I frankly dont have the money to keep popping controllers in the quest for speed... Now my fancy has shifted to torque... the speed side of me is satisfied.

I honestly want a 44v 65-75A controller. That would be sweet! Low Voltage.. High Power... 40mph! Niccccce!
 
I'd do some tests on the steepest hills on your route before getting totally comfortable, specifically using the lower speed settings. The current limit in the controller setting protects the battery. It's the phase current limit that protects the controller. The lower speed settings are essentially partial throttle, so current limiting kicks in more resulting in that phase current multiplication. If you fried it at 115 phase limit before, I'd really suggest backing that down a bit.

Also, that controller can be adjusted for lower voltage, and at lower voltage you can crank the amps up somewhat. That's because at lower voltage current limiting ends at a lower speed. It's high voltage combined with the high speed wind motors that is so hard for controllers, especially at partial throttle. With guys like Arlo running 5304's at 100V100A 18fet controllers with 4110's, then I'd be comfortable running a 5303 using a 12fet with 4110's at 44V and 60A. Weren't you running a higher voltage when you popped something before?

Check your controller often for heat immediately after difficult stretches or hard riding in order to fine tune your controller settings. There seems to be a fine line between hot and too hot.

John
 
I had my controller programmed at 115A phase and 45A Battery current when I popped it in that video. But thats not factoring the problem that me and several other had including DoctorBass. When we programmed the battery current it would actually be almost double the amount. So I able to pull 60-80+A battery current. Probably 60-70A continuous. So 4-5kw which was way borderline for a 12fet at 66v. But what i think killed my controller is the power connector melted on the controller so it was making piss poor contact under load and the mcu probably dropped out under load and caused the mosfets to go.

On the 120% Unrestricted settings its solid doesnt skip a beat and the controller doesnt get alarmingly hot. At the true 44v 45A 2kw power its pretty reliable and I give it hell even on steep hills where I know I can stall it and choose not to assist and it pulls out fine. Even on my old really agressive settings where it was pulling 60-80A it was solid. No connector heating issue. Controller was warmer than I would like. The problem i have going to 60-65A is that i just bought a damn 40A ATC fuse holder. 40A fuse is the highest they make. I would have to upgrade to a Maxi Fuse. My brother works at a stereo shop so he should be able to get me fuse and holders. I might even go to an ANL...but those fudgers never like to blow unless its an absolute dead short thats multiple seconds long.=P

I think once anyone crests the 3kw mark is where wire upgrades and connector upgrades are needed because that was my previous point of failure. I use Andersons And I do have a crimper. I had what I thought were perfect crimps but anytime you have to force a connector in a housing is when you are just asking for trouble. I just learned to pull out and put it back in the crimper and give it another solid squeeze past the click and it snaps in without much effort. Also the roll pin not only keep the connectors from sliding apart but they spread the two apart just a little bit to where it increases the friction when you plug it into another housing for a more solid fit.

I would only use the eco mode on the trail or in true flat areas where speed isnt needed. Like on a crowded trail or on a busy side walk basically where 20mph speed isnt needed. I wouldnt dare try to go up a hill in eco mode. Because of that current limiting thing and its just really not possible. Its probably good for hills thats 3% grade max and thats pushing it. I think the 5303 at 44v comes out of current limiting around 30mph. That seems to be where my regen kicks in so im assuming the BEMF has built up enough at that point to cause the controller to back off on the amps.

John arent you the one that say its best to tackle a hill at full throtle and keep your speed up vs backing off to partial throttle to try and save the motor but you are really frying the controller in the process. Especially with low turn motors.

The down side to these low turns like my 5303 is there is almost a solid pull of full amps up to top speed. But its funny the higher amps you pull the higher the voltage sag and the more likely you will come out of currently alot sooner. Thats jacked up but its something to think about.
 
Sounds like you got it under control.

John arent you the one that say its best to tackle a hill at full throtle and keep your speed up vs backing off to partial throttle to try and save the motor but you are really frying the controller in the process. Especially with low turn motors.
Click to expand...

Yep that's me. It's sounds like you already understand that the economy setting is partial throttle even when you're at full throttle. If you're never running hot now, then you don't have an issue, because that double current before was doubling the phase currents too. I'm sorry I forgot reading your post a while back about the double current.
 
Hi

I have a 5304 with the same Lipo battery setup running on an old school analogue controller, top speed no peddling with a 26 inch wheel is 30mph, acceleration is good but not as good as my BMC running at the same voltage.

Your controller failure is likely what caused your Anderson connector to fail not the other way around? are you not running a fuse in your battery line? as I cant see how a connector failing could possibly cause the controller to fail :?

I think you will be happy with the 5304, to be honest I have not heard of folks having controller failures with the 5303 motors though? I have always run mine on old school xlyte controllers, I also agree at 72V the 5304 is a moped not a bike, its great fun but too fast for proper assist.

I think also a lot of people having problems with connector heating are using either fake Andersons or are not crimping them properly, if you dont crimp them properly they can sit at an angle in the housing so when you connect them there is a chance that only half of the contact makes, if in doubt or if you havent got the right crimp then my advice to everyone is make sure you have real not fake connectorshttp// www.powerwerx.com and solder them if you are not sure as soldered connectors do not deform in the housings.

Nice videos as well by they way, I also like to sit behind cyclists like this it gives them a good work out :mrgreen:

Knoxie
 
knoxie said:
Your controller failure is likely what caused your Anderson connector to fail not the other way around? are you not running a fuse in your battery line? as I cant see how a connector failing could possibly cause the controller to fail :?
Knoxie
Click to expand...

The deformation I had on the connector was horrible. I wish I had a picture. In the failure video there was a momment where the controller lost power but I regained it just to loose it about a mile down the road. I think that was the first sign. The contacts were melted and sunken down in the connector and the connectors were fused together. The + and - battery wires were fused together "not touching" and the phase wires were fused. Its was like I was playing with twizzlers pull and peel. All the pass through connectors and I had for my lights and CA still worked. It was a bad loose connector between the controller and my Stand Alone CA that melted and fused. But I dont know knoxie. I understand could have allowed unrestricted damage to the controller. But If that was the case the controller would have been pretty wrecked with alot of blown components. You can get damage from a bad connector because if the MCU drops out under load it can damage the mosfet driver. Thats why we must make sure the input regulator is happy. But ive only had this happened to me when the lvc was set too low to allow for multiple voltage operation and the input resistors were to high which wasnt the case this time.

It is critical, however, that the LVC protects the controller from a low voltage condition.
If the voltage to the mosfet drivers and MCU is not steady the controller will be damaged.
Click to expand...
That was pulled from one of the controller information threads. Lyen said my gate drivers were shot. So Im assuming the vibration while riding and a bad connector can give the controller dirty power.

I didnt run fuses before the incident but now I run dual inline fuses on the hot and ground. Ive been running 40A fuses with lower voltage and amps with great results even under solid continuous 45-50A loads. I replaced most of the connectors on the controller. Everything plugs in with a nice click. Ive looped zipties through most of connectors I dont unplug often to allow for a solid connection. They are running cool now fine now. But as John in CR said before that double current was doing a number on the wiring and I think it was the catalyst for the events.

But come on now we should all know by now not to try to pull more than 5-60A through andersons even with a good crimp. You either have to double up the connector and the phase/power wire or move to a larger connector. I see what GInDC goes through. He has more problems on the phase wirese though. When the controller blew my phase wire insulation was deformed all the way into the controller. It even fused with a small wire laying next to it inside the controller.
 
Ok I was quite pissed today and needed the motivation to carry out this project. So Hyena's multiswitch arrived the other day and I was felt kinda misled that there was barely 1ft of cable on the switch. I found several strands of wire that was long enough to run from the handlebars to the rear of the bike where the controller was. I stripped, twisted, and solder extensions onto all the wires. I shrink wrapped my solder joints. I took my old 3 speed switch off. I installed the new switch into the same spot. I positioned it to where my thumb could easily hit the green button. This is the button that I was going to use for my E-brake/Push Button Regen/Brake by wire. I routed the wires through the frame and made my connections to the controller.

I reprogrammed the controller to turn off the regen from throttle release. I bumped up my phase current a tiny bit and I also change my SPEED 1 setting to 37% throttle instead of going to 40% like I originally planned. Old setting was too low. 40% was to high so I picked 37%.

My red button cuts the controller on and off. The green button is the regen button. The L and R switch is my 3 speed switch. Nice and tidy in one unit. I like the switch but hate the short cable. =P Hyena Im never gonna let that go! Its not your fault but what the hell did the chinese vendor expect us to do with that.

I tested in the new arrangement in the house with the wheel up off the ground and spun the motor up with the throttle and pressed the ebrake button and regen kicked in. I was like HOT DAMN! I had EV Grin all over my face. To be honest I wasnt confident that it would work. The regen on throttle release wouldnt kick in until i got around 30mph and would release when it dropped below 25mph. I thought regen required there to be a substantial amount of BEMF at the correct voltage for it to engage. I suppose the controller is buck boosting the low BEMF to something the battery can accept. The controller is slowing the bike down to a near stop or atleast below 3-5 mph to where my hand brakes are useful. Would I do away with hand brakes completely. Hell NO! Its not that damn good but it takes alot of the work off the regular brakes. This achieved the result I wanted so Im happy. I took a spin around the neighborhood. The regen is very strong especially above 10mph it kind weakens alot below that. By my regen values are amazing. They are the highest Ive seen. 20A of regen current. WOW!. I was actually able to ride down the hill outside my house and it stopped me at the bottom of the hill where it levels out without me using my hand brakes. Normally Im grabbing the brakes for dear life... smelling burned rubber from the pads... and barely stopping.
 

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icecube57 said:
The L and R switch is my 3 speed switch. Nice and tidy in one unit. I like the switch but hate the short cable. =P Hyena Im never gonna let that go! Its not your fault but what the hell did the chinese vendor expect us to do with that
Click to expand...
Yeah sorry mate, that's how they come from the factory :(
They're designed for scooters so maybe they normally plug into some sort of dash right there on the handlebars ?
It does say on my site though that they're not a direct plug in for ebikes and will require soldering and joining.
Fortunately it's not a hard task for a clever chap such as yourself :p
 
Im just as happy. I went out for a night ride around the block. Top speed 43mph. Alot of hills in my area. I got up to 27A of regen current. Thats alot in my opinion and if its so easy to regen by push botton why was the throttle regen not kicking in until 30mph. My GM kicked in around 15mph. How bad can this be on a controller. On some of the hills I probably could have racked up .25Ah easy. Braking force is really strong. I read the force and current may be high because of the battery chemistry being a low resistance. My question is why are we not funding this.[youtube]X6C6IKBezjA[/youtube] I understand it may not yield the best returns as far as energy gain for some people in flat regions but its a great safety feature and when used with regular brakes its the bees knees.
 
Hi Ice

Glad you got the bike sorted, I like the Idea of regen as well however sadly none of the old xlyte controllers have the feature, main reason is the huge reduction in brake block wear! on my old bike riding at 30mph everyday of the week I could do a set in 2 weeks and at 5 pounds a pair it adds up.

I like my X5 also however I dont like the weight of it but have learnt to live with it, I think the 9 series motors are a fair compromise when you consider how much lighter they are.

Loving the mode selection switch thats a neat idea 8)

Knoxie
 
Apparently I have a bottleneck in my wiring. The original phase wires in the X5 must suck balls. They get warm compared to the rest of the wiring. I think this will need addressing soon. I need about 6ft of teflon or silicone 10G wire. I also want to get rid of that gay PCB on the inside but apparently the hall wires are mounted to it also... fudgit. If someone is willing to hook up me up with some teflon wire that would be greatly greatly appreciated. I want to shove in a tempr probe also so if i can do all of this at once and get my wheel trued that would be fantastic.
 
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