Tidal Force : "The Long Ranger"

So I went out on a ride today. I having trouble with something.... Not important but Ill talk about that at a later time. The push button regen is really working out great. Its a little harsh. Especially at higher speeds. Its something you dont want to do one handed on the handlebar. The X5 motor is solid in the rear drop out. The amped bikes torque arm is taking its punishment like a man. DervAtl gave me one of those black Anderson joiners. It locks into the holes for the roll pins and keeps them from coming apart when plugged in. I used to hit large bumps on curb transitions and it would knock my controller power cord loose from my battery. This clips has stopped that from happening. If it wasnt for the heavy dual inline fuse holder it probably wouldnt do that.

So I met a cyclist... not a lycra. He was very friendly and would actually speak. Here is the kicker. I pulled out infront of him speeded up to 20mph+ I was like cool I didnt cut him off. 10 seconds later hes pulling past me. This mofo was hauling ass. He was doing every bit of 28mph sustained. I was behind him so it wasnt drafting it was pure uncut raw power. It wasnt that crap that it was a sudden burst that faded. I was drafting him and the whole time he was trying to drop me. He later slows up and speaks hes like damn I know you pulled in front of me and sped off pretty fast. Then I saw it was electric and flew by. He admit he was trying to shake me but wasnt gaining any distance so he said he had to slow down and see whats going on. He sustained it for several miles. He bragged about he has never been passed on the trail but he did it in a non assholish way. Even though 28mph is a little fast he has my respect and he respects others on the trail. He does just plow and weave in and out like a agressive driver. He drafted me doing 25-30mph. I basically escorted him 6-7 miles to his car. We picked up two show boaters that couldnt hang with us that long even while drafting. We exchanged numbers and he asked if I would pace for a train of people for 20-30-40m rides in the afternoons. He asked me how fast could I go in the flats. I told him up to 40mph. He had that grin like I was his new best friend. He says his max is 32mph for short periods.

I needed that positive experience. This approves that even avid cyclist are accepting of ebikers. Buy lycras....tsk.. tsk..
 
Ok the problem I was having the other day was... I bought this nice multi switch. I was using it for the push button regen and three speed selection. I also wired the other button to cut my controller on and off. It worked for a few rides and all of a sudden one day I stopped to get some food. After I finished eating I came back hopped on my bike. I push the button.... nothing happened. DEAD IN THE WATER!!!. I kept pushing it thinking the switch would finally catch. It didnt. If I held the button in the controller would power up and I could ride as long as I held it in. I couldnt believe the contracts were shot already. Its not drawing that much current. Theoretically only 65ma max. I took it apart. Redid the solder connections and heat shrinked. Glued the switch in so it would be more stable and not move around when i pressed it. It worked flawlessly for about 10 more presses and then is started to act funny again. The thing that caught my attention is that you heard a spark and crackling when you pressed it. Im like this doesnt make sense. There shouldnt be any inrush current on the ignition line. But I remember that Lyen told me that my controller is a new board design with the 2010 112A MCU. It supposed to have a more efficient regulator design. Im not sure how it operates but i know it has a nice inductor near where the input resistors are. So indeed there may be a nice inrush thats causing the contracts go bad in the switch. Especially if it creates a spark when closing. But honestly the switch looks like POS anyways. I scoured Radio Shack's website last night and I found a mini toggle switch that was shallow depth that actually had some balls to it for current handling. It dropped right in with very little work. i swapped the red button top to where the green button is. I figured Since im using the other push button to stop it ought to be red instead of green. The switch works pretty good and feels solid.

I popped open the controller today. My ass was tired not having cruise control. I shorted CR to ground. Tada! I got cruise again. Im about to go out on a ride thats it for now.
 

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icecube57 said:
The thing that caught my attention is that you heard a spark and crackling when you pressed it. Im like this doesnt make sense. There shouldnt be any inrush current on the ignition line. But I remember that Lyen told me that my controller is a new board design with the 2010 112A MCU. It supposed to have a more efficient regulator design. Im not sure how it operates but i know it has a nice inductor near where the input resistors are. So indeed there may be a nice inrush thats causing the contracts go bad in the switch
Ah! That would explain it, especially if you're actually hearing a crack. I'm glad you got the the bottom of it, and that it wasn't just a totally dud switch. Although as you say they are made with pretty cheap components, as are the majority out of china unfortunately...
I'll let other people who buy this multi switch know not to have and significant current going through it.
As a side note, the dirt bike style kill switches I use on my bikes for on/off have much heavier contacts and wouldn't have a problem with it.

The inrush current is definitely a killer though. I hooked up a beefy 40 amp toggle switch as a main power switch to a 25a controller thinking it'd probably be ok but the inrush current killed it after turning it on just 3 times. I pulled the switch apart and the contacts were welded together.
I'd be nice if future controllers could implement some sort of pre-charge circuitry to eliminate this.

That's cool about the cyclist guy you met. Most of the guys I come across are jerks but I met a few guys in my local national park that were cool and gave me a patch when I got a bit shard of glass in my tyre. We chatted as I patched the tube and I offered them a ride when I was done but they were chicken :lol:

I got stuck riding in a pack of lycras in the bush the other day. I came off a side track and came up behind 2 lycras taking up the width of the narrow track. I couldn't get past without being a douche so sat back politely until the track widened. In the mean time half a dozen others came up behind and boxed me in pretty tight in the middle of their pack. I got stuck for a few minutes crawling along up a hill and it was torture :lol: It was funny casually pedalling in my camo pants and armour though while they were all up on the pedals and struggling. I finally got a break and sped off into the distance :p
 
Hyena said:
I'd be nice if future controllers could implement some sort of pre-charge circuitry to eliminate this.

This is easy using a car ignition switch like I have on my bike, because they have 2 positions. I'll finally get to use that aspect with position 1 including a resistor in the path and position 2 being full on.
 
Not surprised! That's typically piece of junk made from China. You know what, Sometime I wished US didn't get into
WTO (World Trade Organize) with China instead US made or somewhere else better regulated business.

forgive me, No offense - Fk China = Communist corrupt world's dollars
 
[youtube]vo6uRfN07SA[/youtube]

Im getting kinda itcy to go to 66v. I need the extra torque. I cant have fun around my house with all these furkin hills. Ive done all I can at 44v without blowing up a 12fet controller from excessive phase current.At the end of September/ Early October Im going to do the big lipo upgrade. Im getting atleast 4 more packs but I want to get 8. 66v 20AH of lipo. Thats 20lbs of lipo. MmMm lipo. Any upgrade from 10AH would mean fewer deep discharges. Thats the main goal. Also I need to get about 1.2 to 1.4kwh for this 200 mile ride i got coming up. Getting married to..... I think im more giddy over the lipo than the wedding date... How Lipo whipped are you?
 
lawl! whensoever you are going have wedding and INVITE ME!!

I was thinking same thing like what you were talking about more Ah LiPo. I agree with your comment about more Ah of the
LiPo and more longer cycles than 10Ah.

Go for it make a bigger LiPo pack 18s24p (66v40Ah) will takes you LOT LOT miles and long time outlast LiPo's lifetime!!
 
Don't the Lipo's only cycle about 300 times though? Surely a decent Lidepo4 paralleled to give you the discharge you need would be better in the long run?
 
I think the older 1st get Lipos were only good for 300cycles. We now have the next generation space age pimpin lipos that are good for 500 or more cycles if you dont over charge them or over discharge tham or hit them up side the head with retarded C rates everytime you discharge them. Going to a larger pack reduces all three of those aspects.... well 2 of them. And isnt it 500 cycles before you notice any large impact on capacity. So its not that the pack will die... it will have slightly diminished capacity and performance. I dont ride my bike everyday ... maybe 2-3 times a week. So its a worth while investment for the next 3-5 years. I like the weight reduction I have with lipo. Almost a 50% weight reduction
 
chroot said:
Go for it make a bigger LiPo pack 18s24p (66v40Ah) will takes you LOT LOT miles and long time outlast LiPo's lifetime!!

God knows I want to but I think I can only fit 8 more packs in my trunk bag on my rack for a total of 12 packs so... I also have panniers but thats going to be used for cargo like water and snacks and stuff for my trip.

Give me the money and ill do whatever you want me too!
 
Darn, it look beautiful scenic landscape and How many miles did you went Georgia to Alabama?
 
It was 26 miles round trip. I went 13 miles out ... it took about 9-10 miles to get to the line... I kept going a few more miles hoping I would see something like a trail head or a Welcome Center. But there was nothing but a trail littered with dog and horse crap. That stuff doesnt go on at the Atlanta end of the trail. They pick up their crap.

It was all up hill on the way there and I was wasting watt hours looking for something. With 440wh on tap every little bit is precious. It took 9.6AH total. I did 5AH going out with moderate pedaling maintaining about 17mph. I did 4.6AH coming back. I basically sat cruise to 12-14mph and sat back and "balanced" no hands on the handle bars all the way back with my arms folded taking it in the sites. It was pretty much all downhill barely 50-100w consumption in some areas. Other areas were as high as 350w. No pedaling. I was basically going out because I never saw this part of the trail and also because I needed the data for my upcoming century ride. I was trying out different conditions to see how big of a pack I need.
 
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

I just placed an order for 5 6s 20C Flightma packs from Hobby City. When they come in it will give me a total of 9 packs. Im going to rearrage my packs to (3) 22.2v 15AH blocks to make it easier for me to charge and series them to 66v 15AH. This will give me slightly over 1kwh of power. More speed. Much needed torque. More range. Very light pack. It will be about 16-17lbs and it will fit in my existing trunk bag. I dont think there has been a momment where ive been truely happy with a bike... until now....(sniffles)

I also got hitched this Saturday. Congrats to me.

The bike has been solid no issues. Time to true the wheel again. Its been broken in quite well since its original true by a LBS. Im also trying to figure out my new profile for my controller to run at 66v. I know Im going to back down the phase current from 120 to possiblely 90-100. I may leave the battery current the same at 45A although Ive been thinking I need to back that down also. But higher current helps you reach higher speed and helps out alot with hills. Im going to play it by ear and tweak it on the fly. By going to 66v nomnial It will give me atleast a 20nm boost in torque at around 30mph which is a bonus. I still have alot of torque on my top in compared to most motors but the mid range where im at most of the time really wakes up with this voltage boost.
 
Congrats on the wedding! But why are you posting about lipo when you should be on your honeymoon :lol:

Hopefully your wife doesn't start eating into your ebike and project time, mine seems to think this is perfectly acceptable... :|

What will your top speed on 18S be ? I get around 70km/hr on a GM1000w motor so on a 5303 it should be stupidly fast!
 
BLUESTREAK said:
HI ICE: Congrats on the marrriage as well as the LIPOS. :D :D :D

Thanks. Hows that pack running? I though about buying it back but I dont have anywhere to put that beast on my bike so ... Lipo it is!

Congrats on the wedding! But why are you posting about lipo when you should be on your honeymoon

Hopefully your wife doesn't start eating into your ebike and project time, mine seems to think this is perfectly acceptable...

What will your top speed on 18S be ? I get around 70km/hr on a GM1000w motor so on a 5303 it should be stupidly fast!

We went in the hole to pay for the wedding. We got enough gifts to get out the hole. We split what was left over and got gifts for ourselves. Our idea of a honeymoon vacation is 1-2k bucks so we will save for it and take it later.

We still keep finances pretty split. She handles her stuff. I handle mine. If things get tight. We share. =P

Ive tried 18s before but remember I had an epic failure. It seems to me that the x5303 is very powerful. It just depends on how many amps you throw at it. and if the controller can take the heat. :oops: Im running Lyens 12fet and its borderline for this motor because of the low winding resistance of the motor. It needs an 18fet or better. In the simulator @ 45A the values I put in are giving me 43mph/70kph in the flats which is about right. You factor in the timing advance its around 45-46 maybe But thats at nominal 66v at the end of the pack so I can safely say it should hold the 45mph/70kph ish in the flats maybe a little more for the first few miles with a fully charged pack. My previous epic failure at 66v ride gave me 53mph/85kph mph down hill which was equal to me running the GM at 96v.
 
Ive been throwing this idea around alot. I happen to have some extra funds. Im thinking of changing my 26 inch rear to a 24 or 20 inch. That means I loose rear brakes. But I figure the regenerative brake will be super strong once I reduce wheel size. I will just take the rear brake off completely. I will replace the front brake lever with a e-brake lever. The way I want it to operate is that a slight pull will activate regen but cause the front brakes not to fully engage but for hard braking I just fully squeeze and have regen and the front brake bring me to a stop.

This question is for the the torque junkies and controller gurus. Going down to a 20 inch wheel... how well does it multiply the torque. Does it multiply regen torque also. Is it a very very noticeable amount of improvement. Is acceleration better. Right now my regen is strong. Will it be even stronger. Will I have to scale down the EBS level when I program my controller. I ran numbers is the simulator and it its not that much reduction in my actual top loaded speed but it is a reduction in the no load speed. Also the load/heat on my controller is reduced by over 50%.

Or would you just go for more batteries.
 
icecube57 said:
We still keep finances pretty split. She handles her stuff. I handle mine. If things get tight. We share. =P
Sounds better than the usual "what's yours is ours, what's mine is mine" :lol:

But thats at nominal 66v at the end of the pack so I can safely say it should hold the 45mph/70kph ish in the flats maybe a little more for the first few miles with a fully charged pack
Yeah with a 15ah lipo pack you won't be dipping below 70v for the first part of the ride. With the controller only pulling 45a you'll probably sit around 72 actual volts.

icecube57 said:
Im thinking of changing my 26 inch rear to a 24 or 20 inch. That means I loose rear brakes. But I figure the regenerative brake will be super strong once I reduce wheel size.
Not really. I recently dropped down to a 24" and there's not a hugely noticable difference in torque. Mind you this was a 9C vs a GM so there'll be differences anyway. This is also with a 45a controller, on my commuter. There is a little drop in top speed and to be honest on a commuter I'd rather the top speed than the supposed slight increase in torque. Going to 20" will give you more (and really eat into your top speed) but the bike will look dicky, you'll have trouble with the pedals hitting the ground and with a bloke your size on it at the speeds you do I'd be worries about how the handling with the changed geometry.

As for regen, in my experience it's not noticably any stronger in the smaller wheel. If you want more torque up the current (or voltage, or both :twisted: )
But as you say with a 12 fet and that winding you're pushing things to the limit
 
Took my rear wheel to the LBS to get it retrued after over 500+ miles since they first trued it. So its well broken in. The main reason is that there is enough wobble in the rim to where i cant get my brakes in close enough to the rim for firm stopping power. So my rear brake feels mushy and ineffective. Im looking into swapping my front rim brakes to disc. I have to wait for a friend to get in from out of town to pick up a rim and i have to go to a local LBS for front disc brake adapters for my front shock.

Waiting on my packs to come in. Im also working on a harness that parallels 9 packs to 2 battery medics for use while charging. It will be used for the first few cycles of the new pack and I will start balancing every 15-20 cycles after that.

I also changed my front chain ring from the stock 48 tooth to a 53 tooth. Im lookin to change out my rear to an 11. This will get me back to pedaling in the 20s again.
 
I need another repair. I was approaching/ going up a hill outside my home. The cruise had set itself. I twist the throttle to disengage cruise. It felt rough for a second. I tried again. It still felt rough. I coast back home and check everything. The throttle is has no response. I think a mosfet shorted. There is no cogging when the controller is plugged into the motor. I dont think i was pushing it hard at all. This happened pretty much on a cold stat. Controller was still cool. I wasnt on the bike for 30 seconds and felt strong and fine. Im was at 44v.

I picked up my wheel from a LBS roday. They retrued the wheel after I broke it in a few hundred miles. Its still kinda off due to the poor rim quality. A bend/ hop in the rim but they got it close enogh where my pads can hug the rim without scraping. I have awesome braking again. I put a slightly larger chainring on. I went from a 48 to a 53 tooth up front. Im still tweaking it. I took 2 hours to adjust yesterday. The chain isnt rubbing the derailer but its rubbing something.I think i may have to put another apcer washer in the rear maybe. It shifts fine tho.

Still waiting on my Lipo. Still in Singapore supposedly.

I suppose I need to remove my controller from my bike and send it to lyen again. I swear this time I was abusing it. This is a brand freakin new controller that Ive kept at 44v the entire time. It has been through alot more heavier stuff than this damn hill. The 5303 Grim Reaper Strikes again. Atleast I dont think it was a really big catastrophic failure like last time because It didnt blow my fuses. So I think it just two fets which should be easy for Lyen to fix.

The delays my voyage to 66v. 6 days no controller. I really want to upgrade to an 18 or 24 fet but i spent my money on Lipo recently. Bummmmmmmmeeeeer.
 
icecube57 said:
I need another repair. I was approaching/ going up a hill outside my home. The cruise had set itself. I twist the throttle to disengage cruise. It felt rough for a second. I tried again. It still felt rough. I coast back home and check everything. The throttle is has no response. I think a mosfet shorted. There is no cogging when the controller is plugged into the motor. I dont think i was pushing it hard at all. This happened pretty much on a cold stat. Controller was still cool. I wasnt on the bike for 30 seconds and felt strong and fine. Im was at 44v.

All I can say is GD ANDERSONS!!!!!!

Everything is working.
 
I don't know why so many people swear by Andersons, because there are certainly a lot of people that swear at them. :mrgreen: Good to here it was only a connector issue.
 
I gotta admit my heart sunk. Time slowed down. My heart started beating fast. I was hoping it was something simple.I instantly felt my wallet get lighter. All of the connectors looked fine at a glance but if you look closer the connectors were sunkern/melted into their housing. Im certainly thinking of soldering with no disconnects. its just a pain in the ass to redo connections over and over again. if you need to take the controller off the bike for some reason. I need to do phase wire upgrade anyways. I just dont wanna buy the teflon or silicone wire. I accept scrap donations. =P

Im also having this problem with the wires coming out of my controller. When I recrimped my connectors these wires were fused together. I had to peel them apart like twizzlers. I just cut all of mine off shorter past the damaged section and recrimped new ends. None of my other phase wires have this melting insulation issue. The yellow connector shows how my connector failed. The Anderson contact sunk into the connector which pulls it away from the contact thats plugged into it.

As a temporary solution im going to get some heat shrink and cover the wires coming out of the controller so they dont fuse together. I also left the wires out in the open instead of bundled in the Crystalyte velco sleeve I have.
 

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