TSDZ2 mid drive with 860C, 850C or SW102 displays only -- Flexible OpenSource firmware (Casainho code only)

Hi
I am running 19.0.
I had to take the motor apart due to a cracked case(long story)
When I put everything back together the motor won’t start and error 1 is flashing.
I pulled the motor and controller out (as in my picture so there is no resistance again the motor) and when I apply power from the throttle or pedal assist I can hear electricity and I can see the drive spindle twitch (very slight moment) but that is all?
The spindle moves freely and is not jammed and I can see the watts change so I don’t think it s the controller?
Any ideas?
Is there a way to test the motor to figure if that is the problem?

ef4fc80f2d13ac75d3b96cbd45fb722e.jpg





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
adam B said:
Any ideas?
Is there a way to test the motor to figure if that is the problem?

ef4fc80f2d13ac75d3b96cbd45fb722e.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Double check if one of the 2 thin wires of the torque sensor coming from the other side is broken.
Long ago mine was broken (from factory) right at the connection with the magnetic ring of the torque sensor.
No assistance from pedals but walk assist worked.
Dodgy one if that's the case.. you have to disassemble both sides then.
 
I have just flashed 850C_v0.4.2-bootloader.bin with home made bootloader box successfully and display turns on however the vertical screen flip is still present.
Also seems that I cannot flash it anymore as the display is not reacting to flashing signals from USBUART module as before.

Is there a chance that 0.4.2 could brick the UART/TTL capability of the display ?
 
I have a similar problem with Adam.
When I press walk assist the display shows 100W but the motor does not move. I also took it out. Without power I can move motor head easy. With power it is fix! Torque sensor diag works ok, also cadence and speed measurement. Just the motor does not move!
I can hear small electrical buzz from the motor.

What is the possible culprit? motor, controller?

Thanks,
Max.
 
maximusdm said:
I have a similar problem with Adam.
When I press walk assist the display shows 100W but the motor does not move. I also took it out. Without power I can move motor head easy. With power it is fix! Torque sensor diag works ok, also cadence and speed measurement. Just the motor does not move!
I can hear small electrical buzz from the motor.

What is the possible culprit? motor, controller?

Thanks,
Max.
Can be something with the hall sensors. The ERPS is measured with the hall sensors, so, please see that is the ERPS value on display while you move the motor shaft with your hand.
 
elfnino said:
I have just flashed 850C_v0.4.2-bootloader.bin with home made bootloader box successfully and display turns on however the vertical screen flip is still present.
Also seems that I cannot flash it anymore as the display is not reacting to flashing signals from USBUART module as before.

Is there a chance that 0.4.2 could brick the UART/TTL capability of the display ?
About the vertical flip, follow the wiki instructions:

Bafang 850C: information and configuration
NOTE: some 850C displays have a different LCD inside and one of them will make the image flipped, in this case, go to configurations, LCD vertical flip, and change from default to invert. Next time you power up the display, the image should not be flipped anymore.

About the bootloader, usually the bootloader locks his own memory space at boot, so the firmware that runs after, can't change the bootloader memory and so the bootloader is protected.
I can't say there is no issue with the 850C bootloader...
 
Is there an order of precedence for the assist modes? it seems I can turn on all modes (power, torque, cadence, emtb) in the config menu, so what happens if they are all enabled? do I need to make sure that only one is enabled at a time?
 
The firmware only allows you to have one at a time plus emtb as soon as you turn on one whatever else was on before turns off. So it's possible to have none or 1 and emtb
 
jeff.page.rides said:
The firmware only allows you to have one at a time plus emtb as soon as you turn on one whatever else was on before turns off. So it's possible to have none or 1 and emtb

Ok makes sense, thanks for the explanation.
 
Nfer said:
has the startup boost funcionality been removed from 0.20? I don't see it in the 0.20 configuration manual on the wiki
Buba removed that feature from 0.20.0 but I plan to implement it again on 0.21.0. In fact, I created an issue so I will not forget this: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike/issues/123
 
casainho said:
Nfer said:
has the startup boost funcionality been removed from 0.20? I don't see it in the 0.20 configuration manual on the wiki
Buba removed that feature from 0.20.0 but I plan to implement it again on 0.21.0. In fact, I created an issue so I will not forget this: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike/issues/123

Ok. Thanks for the update. I haven't tried the 0.20 beta but, at least for me commuting in a city environment with red light every intersection, this startup customization is the most important feature. As 0.19 works fine so far, I think I will jump to 0.21, otherwise marcoq is able to do some magic and keep the soft start in his java installer
Thanks guys for all the effort and hours that you all are spending on this amazing project.
 
thineight said:
adam B said:
Any ideas?
Is there a way to test the motor to figure if that is the problem?

ef4fc80f2d13ac75d3b96cbd45fb722e.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Double check if one of the 2 thin wires of the torque sensor coming from the other side is broken.
Long ago mine was broken (from factory) right at the connection with the magnetic ring of the torque sensor.
No assistance from pedals but walk assist worked.
Dodgy one if that's the case.. you have to disassemble both sides then.

I pulled the motor down completely and there were no broken wires in the Torque sensor, Just curiously should the throttle/ walk assist work if torque sensor is disconnected? Just trying to find through process of elimination why error 1 is flashing and motor is not spinning?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
adam B said:
thineight said:
adam B said:
Any ideas?
Is there a way to test the motor to figure if that is the problem?

ef4fc80f2d13ac75d3b96cbd45fb722e.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Double check if one of the 2 thin wires of the torque sensor coming from the other side is broken.
Long ago mine was broken (from factory) right at the connection with the magnetic ring of the torque sensor.
No assistance from pedals but walk assist worked.
Dodgy one if that's the case.. you have to disassemble both sides then.

I pulled the motor down completely and there were no broken wires in the Torque sensor, Just curiously should the throttle/ walk assist work if torque sensor is disconnected? Just trying to find through process of elimination why error 1 is flashing and motor is not spinning?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
As I told before, rotate by hand the motor axle and see on display if you have motor speed ers value. I think the issue can be with the hall sensors.
 
buba said:
xlxc34 said:
buba said:
xlxc34 said:
I initially had the problem with the software flashing where it says something about address not in range (and also warns of lots of bits of memory not being read while reading the TSDZ2 hex file in). It sounds a bit like the problem hego was having?

Has anyone else had this problem? If so, any solutions out there?

Thanks,

Pete

What device have you selected in the ST Visual Programmer? It should be the STM8S105x6. Could you check that? If that does not work and you still get the "out of range" message we will take it from there!

Let us know how it goes!

I tried again last night... still got the memory error when I was flashing the motor unit but it works this time! I didn't do anything different to previous efforts so I don't have the satisfaction of being able to tell you what fixed it unfortunately, but I'm glad it's sorted. Thanks for the help!


I am a bit worried that something might not be working properly if you still have the memory error. Hego solved the problem but it was allegedly a computer upgrade that fixed the issue. Quote:

hego said:
Casainho.... The Mistery is over !!!!!!!

Yesterday I tried x-times flash and no success.In the end was an upgrade of my computer system.

Today try to flash the rebell controller again and...... it flashed at the first try.No memory error.

is not a problem with the STM8S105x6 limit memory. Uff !!! It works.

A great new.

But It must config all parametres by hand: all was null !!! ( Maybe mislead cause´many tries)

Well, I will have an other spare 8-pins-Controller, ideal for a thermal sensor ha, ha, ha.

I´m glad.

Thank´s for all.



Also, here is a vary valid tip from user Perryscope:

perryscope said:
Not sure if it helps but I had odd issues programming the Motor when I first tried it and found that it was very sensitive to the length of cable between the ST-LINK device and the speed sensor connector. In the end i had to make mine about 10cm or less for it to be reliable. You might want to check the quality of this connection as it may be sending data ok but not receiving a clear response all the time so maybe failing the verification stage? just a guess but might explain the oddities you are experiencing?


And here is a word from user Rydon:

Rydon said:
Hego, sorry to chime in so late but I get this error writing the data segment all the time but like Mctubster, I ignore it or don't write that section at all and just let the prog config write all the values. I have noticed that cable length, 5 volts vs 3.3 volts and having the battery connected or disconnected can all affect whether this error occurs or not.



And lastly Hego:

hego said:
The battery was never connect. Maybe are the cables, too long..
Thank´s

Thanks very much - sorry for late reply, I obviously haven't got notifications set up!

I've had the problem again after calibrating the torque sensor and now it won't flash at all! It can't detect the connection basically.

It gives an error about SWIM and suggests forcing the reset pin low while connecting. Has anyone got any guidance on how to do this as I can't find anything online?
 
adam B said:
I pulled the motor down completely and there were no broken wires in the Torque sensor, Just curiously should the throttle/ walk assist work if torque sensor is disconnected?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, the walk assist worked in my case, even if one wire from the torque sensor was broken.
 
Hi All,

I have the 36V variant of the TSDZ2 with no throttle. I have installed version 19.0 and after quite a lot of shenanigans I am able to flash the motor - as the very helpful people on here said, it is very important to have a short cable when flashing!

I have a problem with the speed sensor now - it detects that the wheel is rotating but spits out random numbers for the speed. I want to rule out a hardware issue, so is anybody able to provide the wire colours on each end of this connection? I currently have:

Green sensor end -> White motor end
Orange sensor end -> Brown motor end
Black sensor end -> Orange motor end

Is this correct? I'm pretty confident it is, but because I had to strip a double sensor cable back to make a cable for flashing I'm not 100% certain. Any help will be much appreciated!
 
xlxc34 said:
Hi All,

I have the 36V variant of the TSDZ2 with no throttle. I have installed version 19.0 and after quite a lot of shenanigans I am able to flash the motor - as the very helpful people on here said, it is very important to have a short cable when flashing!

I have a problem with the speed sensor now - it detects that the wheel is rotating but spits out random numbers for the speed. I want to rule out a hardware issue, so is anybody able to provide the wire colours on each end of this connection? I currently have:

Green sensor end -> White motor end
Orange sensor end -> Brown motor end
Black sensor end -> Orange motor end

Is this correct? I'm pretty confident it is, but because I had to strip a double sensor cable back to make a cable for flashing I'm not 100% certain. Any help will be much appreciated!

Check the distance to sensor. It should be less than 5mm
 
Nfer said:
casainho said:
Nfer said:
has the startup boost funcionality been removed from 0.20? I don't see it in the 0.20 configuration manual on the wiki
Buba removed that feature from 0.20.0 but I plan to implement it again on 0.21.0. In fact, I created an issue so I will not forget this: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike/issues/123

Ok. Thanks for the update. I haven't tried the 0.20 beta but, at least for me commuting in a city environment with red light every intersection, this startup customization is the most important feature. As 0.19 works fine so far, I think I will jump to 0.21, otherwise marcoq is able to do some magic and keep the soft start in his java installer
Thanks guys for all the effort and hours that you all are spending on this amazing project.
I would recommend trying 0.20 beta. In emtb mode the startup is great, as it reacts much much quicker than 0.19 you really do not need the boost. I am using the recommended advanced PAS setting and 30 as value for the advanced motor tuning (running 12s lipo on 48V motor) . With hard pushing from stand still, the bike jumps to 700-800 watts below a second.
 
daenny said:
I would recommend trying 0.20 beta. In emtb mode the startup is great, as it reacts much much quicker than 0.19 you really do not need the boost. I am using the recommended advanced PAS setting and 30 as value for the advanced motor tuning (running 12s lipo on 48V motor) . With hard pushing from stand still, the bike jumps to 700-800 watts below a second.

WOW! I just read through the 0.20 beta feature configuration, and it seems to offer a great set of capabilities for the TSDZ2. I am using/testing with the SW-102 display, which is presently limited to 0.19, but, I have a lot for which to look forward. The embt mode seems to offer exactly what I'm looking for, that is, no assistance until the torque goes above a certain target to maximize our exercise effectiveness. Then it can phase in the assistance, up to max power, to shrink the hills on our routes, with no more seeking the right assist level. Great, if I ?understand? it correctly.
 
xyrus said:
Hey guys,

First post here and let me first thank you all the hard effort! I'm bought a cube MTB with a standard 73mm BB. I was planning on buying a bafang but after reading the last 30 pages I guess it would be more wise for my preferences to buy a TSDZ2 drive. Hope to give some useable information back to the community when I start riding.

I found this drive on aliexpress from the seller EUNORAU which seems to be a respectable one. They offer a TSDZ2 with a 850C display and multicable for brakes.

https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32821670861.html

Would this work? Finding the pinout one my own and contributing back to community would not be problem. Just have to be sure these are the right parts, as I cant find another seller that sells this package on aliexpress.

It's not even that much cheaper but I do like the idea of skipping the cable splicing part.

Hey, Wondering if your picked this up from this seller? I'm looking at the same unit.. Just looking to see if it worked out.

Thanks!
 
h27 said:
Help needed: I have installed the OpenSource firmware without problems on my TSDZ2 (0.19.0). But I didn‘t succeed to install the firmware on the 850C using the USB to UART cable method (anybody successful yet?) so I bought the bootloader from Eco Cycles. Arrived today and it worked perfectly well. I could install the firmware (4.0) without problems (after I had switched the RX and TX cables to connect). Software confirmed the installation to be successful.
Before the installation of the firmware on the 850C the display worked fine. But after the firmware was installed the display only goes white when I start it. I already tried to start it with the RX and TX cables reversed but the display still shows antarctica in winter (which is kind of relaxing but still I would prefer it to be working as it should).
Any ideas?

Hi, I was going to try the USB UART method. Can you give some details on your set up and where you ran into problems?
 
Joebill said:
h27 said:
Help needed: I have installed the OpenSource firmware without problems on my TSDZ2 (0.19.0). But I didn‘t succeed to install the firmware on the 850C using the USB to UART cable method (anybody successful yet?) so I bought the bootloader from Eco Cycles. Arrived today and it worked perfectly well. I could install the firmware (4.0) without problems (after I had switched the RX and TX cables to connect). Software confirmed the installation to be successful.
Before the installation of the firmware on the 850C the display worked fine. But after the firmware was installed the display only goes white when I start it. I already tried to start it with the RX and TX cables reversed but the display still shows antarctica in winter (which is kind of relaxing but still I would prefer it to be working as it should).
Any ideas?

Hi, I was going to try the USB UART method. Can you give some details on your set up and where you ran into problems?

hi
I had the same whitescreen issue with 850C_v0.4.0 but it has been already fixed in 850C_v0.4.1:

"change code in the hope to solve the issue of white screen on some 850C displays. Seems some of them have different LCDs inside."

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/Color_LCD/releases
 
Nfer said:
xlxc34 said:
Hi All,

I have the 36V variant of the TSDZ2 with no throttle. I have installed version 19.0 and after quite a lot of shenanigans I am able to flash the motor - as the very helpful people on here said, it is very important to have a short cable when flashing!

I have a problem with the speed sensor now - it detects that the wheel is rotating but spits out random numbers for the speed. I want to rule out a hardware issue, so is anybody able to provide the wire colours on each end of this connection? I currently have:

Green sensor end -> White motor end
Orange sensor end -> Brown motor end
Black sensor end -> Orange motor end

Is this correct? I'm pretty confident it is, but because I had to strip a double sensor cable back to make a cable for flashing I'm not 100% certain. Any help will be much appreciated!

Check the distance to sensor. It should be less than 5mm

Thanks for the tip - it seemed making it further away actually fixed it for me. Just posting this so if anyone needs the wiring colour they know it works!
 
elfnino said:
I have just flashed 850C_v0.4.2-bootloader.bin with home made bootloader box successfully and display turns on however the vertical screen flip is still present.
Also seems that I cannot flash it anymore as the display is not reacting to flashing signals from USBUART module as before.

Is there a chance that 0.4.2 could brick the UART/TTL capability of the display ?

Any chance you can share any information on your successful set up? I'm looking to do the same.
 
casainho said:
elfnino said:
I have just flashed 850C_v0.4.2-bootloader.bin with home made bootloader box successfully and display turns on however the vertical screen flip is still present.
Also seems that I cannot flash it anymore as the display is not reacting to flashing signals from USBUART module as before.

Is there a chance that 0.4.2 could brick the UART/TTL capability of the display ?
About the vertical flip, follow the wiki instructions:

Bafang 850C: information and configuration
NOTE: some 850C displays have a different LCD inside and one of them will make the image flipped, in this case, go to configurations, LCD vertical flip, and change from default to invert. Next time you power up the display, the image should not be flipped anymore.

About the bootloader, usually the bootloader locks his own memory space at boot, so the firmware that runs after, can't change the bootloader memory and so the bootloader is protected.
I can't say there is no issue with the 850C bootloader...

I didn't quite follow the last part about the bootloader. Does that mean it can only be flashed once? (Sorry if I'm a bit slow)
 
Back
Top