Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers

Hello Everyone,

I have a Votol EM 150 controller to run a 3kW motor. I am using this assembly to work on a two wheeler bike.

Kindly help me out in figuring out the communication protocols, type of command responses, etc. To cut things short, could anyone help me to obtain the entire technical spec-sheet of the controller.

The main reason behind this is, I want to extract the data from the controller.

Please help me out. I have been trying to find these info all over the internet and in this forum as well. But I am unable to find the relevant info so far.

Thank you for your time.
 
Hello Everyone,

I have a Votol EM 150 controller to run a 3kW motor. I am using this assembly to work on a two wheeler bike.

Kindly help me out in figuring out the communication protocols, type of command responses, etc. To cut things short, could anyone help me to obtain the entire technical spec-sheet of the controller. I want the following details:
1. CAN identifier
2. CAN Bit Rate
3. Message Types (RPM, Voltage, Current, Temperature, etc)
4. Broadcast/ Request Frame Identifier
5. Response Frame identifier

The main reason behind this is, I want to extract the data from the controller.

Please help me out. I have been trying to find these info all over the internet and in this forum as well. But I am unable to find the relevant info so far.

Thank you for your time.
 
ankanphukan said:
Hello Everyone,

I have a Votol EM 150 controller to run a 3kW motor. I am using this assembly to work on a two wheeler bike.

Kindly help me out in figuring out the communication protocols, type of command responses, etc. To cut things short, could anyone help me to obtain the entire technical spec-sheet of the controller. I want the following details:
1. CAN identifier
2. CAN Bit Rate
3. Message Types (RPM, Voltage, Current, Temperature, etc)
4. Broadcast/ Request Frame Identifier
5. Response Frame identifier

The main reason behind this is, I want to extract the data from the controller.

Please help me out. I have been trying to find these info all over the internet and in this forum as well. But I am unable to find the relevant info so far.

Thank you for your time.
Is this link what you’re looking for? Ive had a to-do since may to bug an arduino compatible reader for the EM-150, still something I plan to do once I get some other parts of the project so be.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Transerfer said:
Unfortunately, it did not work out.. Everything is unchanged for me.. :-(

Its ok now, I am here. Lol

Are you still having problems with your release regen or any other settings? If so, connect your PC to the controller and save the configuration file as a new file and post it here in the forum. Dont sent some old configurator file on your PC, we need to see exactly whats in your controller now.

Setting regen to 0% does not fix it, it just masks the problem. If you want regen to work when you apply the brakes, we need to get everything set correctly.

All i can see from your posts is you have a 1500 watt hub motor, 23 pole pair, 55 degree hall angle shift, 38amp max current.

Your current PI settings questionable. Not likely it runs optimally. kI set to 100. Didn't see kP setting.
 
BareKuda said:
Transerfer said:
Unfortunately, it did not work out.. Everything is unchanged for me.. :-(

Its ok now, I am here. Lol

Are you still having problems with your release regen or any other settings? If so, connect your PC to the controller and save the configuration file as a new file and post it here in the forum. Dont sent some old configurator file on your PC, we need to see exactly whats in your controller now.

Setting regen to 0% does not fix it, it just masks the problem. If you want regen to work when you apply the brakes, we need to get everything set correctly.

All i can see from your posts is you have a 1500 watt hub motor, 23 pole pair, 55 degree hall angle shift, 38amp max current.

Your current PI settings questionable. Not likely it runs optimally. kI set to 100. Didn't see kP setting.


Nice that you are interested in this topic. May I ask, do you have 100% regen disable? On firmware 2.33?
 
Paulflieg said:
Nice that you are interested in this topic. May I ask, do you have 100% regen disable? On firmware 2.33?

I use brake activated regen on mine set at 45%.
Throttle release regen is negligible unless switching from speed 3—>2—>1 while holding full throttle, it will regen to slow down to the new speed.
 
BareKuda said:
Paulflieg said:
Nice that you are interested in this topic. May I ask, do you have 100% regen disable? On firmware 2.33?

I use brake activated regen on mine set at 45%.
Throttle release regen is negligible unless switching from speed 3—>2—>1 while holding full throttle, it will regen to slow down to the new speed.

Too bad it doesn't work! I assume you don't have an EM-150 either?
 
Paulflieg said:
Too bad it doesn't work! I assume you don't have an EM-150 either?
Mine works the way i want it to. But I have a EM-30s not a 150. Mine works right with each speed allowing you to set RPM and Amp, unlike some of the Siaecosys Votol.

Mine definitely has some quirks as the busbar current limit does absolutely nothing. Everything is based on current limit entered in the sports mode box. And I don’t even use sports mode, just speed 1-2-3.
 
BareKuda said:
Paulflieg said:
Too bad it doesn't work! I assume you don't have an EM-150 either?
Mine works the way i want it to. But I have a EM-30s not a 150. Mine works right with each speed allowing you to set RPM and Amp, unlike some of the Siaecosys Votol.

Mine definitely has some quirks as the busbar current limit does absolutely nothing. Everything is based on current limit entered in the sports mode box. And I don’t even use sports mode, just speed 1-2-3.

I only meant the regeneration! Nothing else (it all works fine)
 
Paulflieg said:
I only meant the regeneration! Nothing else (it all works fine)
Yes, my regen works the way i want it to.
Throttle release regen: off
Brake activated regen: on
Regen: 45%

All works fine. Is yours not working the way you want?
 
Philosoraptor said:
ankanphukan said:
Hello Everyone,

I have a Votol EM 150 controller to run a 3kW motor. I am using this assembly to work on a two wheeler bike.

Kindly help me out in figuring out the communication protocols, type of command responses, etc. To cut things short, could anyone help me to obtain the entire technical spec-sheet of the controller. I want the following details:
1. CAN identifier
2. CAN Bit Rate
3. Message Types (RPM, Voltage, Current, Temperature, etc)
4. Broadcast/ Request Frame Identifier
5. Response Frame identifier

The main reason behind this is, I want to extract the data from the controller.

Please help me out. I have been trying to find these info all over the internet and in this forum as well. But I am unable to find the relevant info so far.

Thank you for your time.
Is this link what you’re looking for? Ive had a to-do since may to bug an arduino compatible reader for the EM-150, still something I plan to do once I get some other parts of the project so be.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I am afraid, the link is not available. Could you kindly resend?
 
BareKuda said:
Paulflieg said:
I only meant the regeneration! Nothing else (it all works fine)
Yes, my regen works the way i want it to.
Throttle release regen: off
Brake activated regen: on
Regen: 45%

All works fine. Is yours not working the way you want?

Well, mid-engine, ratio 1:7, off-road, Em150. All this is not comparable with your setup. Therefore it leads nowhere here. For example : an EBS of 45 means, for me, the rear wheel is blocked.... What I'm looking for is 0.000000000 throttle release regeneration. My solution is quite good, but not perfect!
 
Paulflieg said:
Well, mid-engine, ratio 1:7, off-road, Em150. All this is not comparable with your setup. Therefore it leads nowhere here. For example : an EBS of 45 means, for me, the rear wheel is blocked.... What I'm looking for is 0.000000000 throttle release regeneration. My solution is quite good, but not perfect!

Yes, we have two entirely different setups, but the Russian who was having throttle release regen problems has a more similar setup to me: hub motor with weak controller.

You have a 7:1 reduction ratio, and if that is single stage, its not easily back-drivable. Thats why all EVs that need that much reduction use more than one stage, each stage not exceeding 5:1. Torsen limited slip differentials use this principle to prevent all the torque escaping to the other wheel.

So yes, you need 0 regen or more correctly electronic freewheeling that keeps your motor driving even a tiny amount to prevent braking.

The Votol doesn’t have electronic freewheel but the closest thing is has is setting a lower rate of decline in the settings so that if you release the throttle, the speed ramps down slowly, unless a brake is activated which cuts motor power instantly and would apply regen if yoi have any, which will cause your rear wheel to lock since its not very back-drivable at 1:7 ratio.

With hub motors like me and the Russian have, regen % responds very well and linearly. With yours it will suddenly go from not enough to too much.

So the Russian with hub motor should definitely have brake regen, and set it to match his system. Hes using a EM-50 at 38a, just slightly more than the 32a max of my EM30s. His ideal regen will be 10%-50%, depending on many things.

The battery type used also effects the max regen. When i had 20ah SLA with max recommended charging at 7.5a, i used 25% (of 30a) regen. Now that i made a LiFePO4 30a battery with max charging of 30a, i can use up to 100% regen but thats too much. After test riding, 45% gave the amount of braking thats ideal for my scooter. Slight squeeze of the front brake lever make the bike slow in a normal comfort amount, and further squeezing adds mechanical braking to the front.

For your setup and the Votol controller you might already have what works best until you change to a back-drivable reduction.
 
Transerfer said:
The problem, which I consider the main one, remains. I'll start over with a Chinese direct drive motor of 1500 watts, I purchased an EM - 50 controller. And there is a problem with regeneration when the throttle is released. She annoys me. I have a habit and love to coast. But no, it doesn't work. Moreover, the regeneration is so strong that when the ignition is on, I can’t even pedal. HELP

Are you still having problems with your regen?
 
BareKuda said:
Transerfer said:
The problem, which I consider the main one, remains. I'll start over with a Chinese direct drive motor of 1500 watts, I purchased an EM - 50 controller. And there is a problem with regeneration when the throttle is released. She annoys me. I have a habit and love to coast. But no, it doesn't work. Moreover, the regeneration is so strong that when the ignition is on, I can’t even pedal. HELP

Are you still having problems with your regen?

Hello BareKuda! I'll start with the main thing, I'm Ukrainian, not Russian .. Thank you for responding to my message! Yes, the problem is still the same .. Nothing helped from what I tried or advised me. I suffered for almost three months with the controller and its settings. Now the controller is blocked, all values ​​are changing, except for the current. I can't put more than 38 amps. Are you asking me to reset the settings? I have dozens of them. Which ones are you interested in? He upset me so much that I stopped trying to do anything for the time being. I'm thinking of putting in my old controller and selling this one..
 
Transerfer said:
I'll start with the main thing, I'm Ukrainian, not Russian ..
Oh sorry.

Thank you for responding to my message! Yes, the problem is still the same .. Nothing helped from what I tried or advised me. I suffered for almost three months with the controller and its settings. Now the controller is blocked, all values ​​are changing, except for the current.

I can't put more than 38 amps.
You mean you change it and it always goes back to 38 amps or what happens when you try to use 50 amps? Normally the controller tells you not to go too high but lets you put anything you want.

Are you asking me to reset the settings? I have dozens of them. Which ones are you interested in? He upset me so much that I stopped trying to do anything for the time being. I'm thinking of putting in my old controller and selling this one..
The Votol is very frustrating at first but normally once its set correctly its a very good controller for the price.

Its possible you have one setting out of bounds and its stopping the controller from writing to memory.

If you have the original configuration file, you can try to upload that to your controller, and then change only the things you know must be changed. First pole pairs, surface Mount magnets, swap wires, 60 deg hall shift. Whatever pairing is working now.

It should allow you to enter any current limit in sports mode. 50a is a good safe starting point. If you have the original configuration file it’s probably already set to 50-55 amps.

Once that works you need to tune the current PI loop.
AE7A8E10-8BCE-4CD9-BA77-47108957C2A1.jpeg

I would start with 500 kI and 5000 kP and then test from there. Range for kI is 100-1200 and i dont know the range for kP. If the current loop PI is set wrong it will make noise and vibration as you accelerate, especially passing 100 rpm. Adjust each one up or down in small changes until it runs smoothest under load.

The box to the left of kI is flux weakening and you don't need it unless you want to run faster than base RPM which is probably around 650-750 rpm.

If you don't have the original configuration file you can post the one that has all the port settings the way you want and i will look at it and try to fix it.
 
Hi all

I have china e-bike with 1500 watt hub motor and votol em-100s non can bus. The top speed I tried is exceeding 100kmh.
All setting are good and well run : one line speedometer, 3 speed switch, sport mode, cruise control, HDC, high brake, reverse, moving vehicle booster, park switch. I have utilized all available wire for those function to work.
But I still have some questions in my head about below :
1. In Votol apps, port setting page, there are some port that I don't knowthe function : JTCK, SWD, PA11, PB2, PA11 and PA15.
2. Votol controller have 2x3 connector for hall sensor connection. 5 wires already assigned to hall sensor. There is 1 port unassigned. What is the function of this port and what is the port code for this wire? (JTCK, SWD, PA11, PA15, or PB2?)
Is this unassigned port intended for temperature sensor?
3. I want to install a thermistor to the motor. I know that Votol em-100 have capabilities to measure external temperature (we know it when we open calibration mode).
4. What is the meaning of "flux weakening compensation" and what value should be the best?

If someone here in this forum knows about all those thing please let me know.
Thank you very much.
 
bhagudunk said:
Hi all

I have china e-bike with 1500 watt hub motor and votol em-100s non can bus. The top speed I tried is exceeding 100kmh.
All setting are good and well run : one line speedometer, 3 speed switch, sport mode, cruise control, HDC, high brake, reverse, moving vehicle booster, park switch. I have utilized all available wire for those function to work.
But I still have some questions in my head about below :
1. In Votol apps, port setting page, there are some port that I don't knowthe function : JTCK, SWD, PA11, PB2, PA11 and PA15.
2. Votol controller have 2x3 connector for hall sensor connection. 5 wires already assigned to hall sensor. There is 1 port unassigned. What is the function of this port and what is the port code for this wire? (JTCK, SWD, PA11, PA15, or PB2?)
Is this unassigned port intended for temperature sensor?
3. I want to install a thermistor to the motor. I know that Votol em-100 have capabilities to measure external temperature (we know it when we open calibration mode).
4. What is the meaning of "flux weakening compensation" and what value should be the best?

If someone here in this forum knows about all those thing please let me know.
Thank you very much.

For point 3 :
How to do that? I mean about : wire connection, port setting and calibration. What are the figures mean in TC.1, TC.2, TC.3 etc (in calibration mode)

Rgds
 
bhagudunk said:
4. What is the meaning of "flux weakening compensation" and what value should be the best?

That is for in-runner motors which use the V-type magnet arrangement instead of surface mount. Its only used when you select V-type. Since you have hub motor you don’t have V-type magnets. Most likely it will have detrimental effect on hub motor.
 
BareKuda said:
Transerfer said:
I'll start with the main thing, I'm Ukrainian, not Russian ..
Oh sorry.

Thank you for responding to my message! Yes, the problem is still the same .. Nothing helped from what I tried or advised me. I suffered for almost three months with the controller and its settings. Now the controller is blocked, all values ​​are changing, except for the current.

I can't put more than 38 amps.
You mean you change it and it always goes back to 38 amps or what happens when you try to use 50 amps? Normally the controller tells you not to go too high but lets you put anything you want.

Are you asking me to reset the settings? I have dozens of them. Which ones are you interested in? He upset me so much that I stopped trying to do anything for the time being. I'm thinking of putting in my old controller and selling this one..
The Votol is very frustrating at first but normally once its set correctly its a very good controller for the price.

Its possible you have one setting out of bounds and its stopping the controller from writing to memory.

If you have the original configuration file, you can try to upload that to your controller, and then change only the things you know must be changed. First pole pairs, surface Mount magnets, swap wires, 60 deg hall shift. Whatever pairing is working now.

It should allow you to enter any current limit in sports mode. 50a is a good safe starting point. If you have the original configuration file it’s probably already set to 50-55 amps.

Once that works you need to tune the current PI loop.
AE7A8E10-8BCE-4CD9-BA77-47108957C2A1.jpeg

I would start with 500 kI and 5000 kP and then test from there. Range for kI is 100-1200 and i dont know the range for kP. If the current loop PI is set wrong it will make noise and vibration as you accelerate, especially passing 100 rpm. Adjust each one up or down in small changes until it runs smoothest under load.

The box to the left of kI is flux weakening and you don't need it unless you want to run faster than base RPM which is probably around 650-750 rpm.

If you don't have the original configuration file you can post the one that has all the port settings the way you want and i will look at it and try to fix it.

Thanks for the tips! I'll start with the current situation. I will send 4 screenshots. On the first two, the full original settings of my EM - 50 from the factory. When I save them, he himself changes them to others. These are screenshots 3 and 4. And he does not return them to the factory after saving.
Previously, I could change them to 55 amps on the first page and 60 and drove and kept fine. At 38, he is lethargic and weak at the start, but I can’t change them. When rebooting again shows 38 amps.
How can I at least do a factory restore? Thanks!!
 

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Transerfer said:
How can I at least do a factory restore? Thanks!!
To do “factory reset” equivalent you need the original configuration file, unmodified. If you opened it, changed it and saved it under the same name, it might be corrupted.

But if you have an original configuration file, simply connect your controller to your PC until you see the fields fill out, then open the original file (dont edit anything) and hit “write param” to save it to your Votol.

Its quite probable this will mess up other settings that you made. So if it accepts the configuration file (reboot controller and it still shows 60a in sports mode), now you can go back and one by one change the settings you know must be changed.

Your voltages are crazy, OVP is lower than LVP, and this might be why the controller is saying “no no no”. There are many settings that if you set wrong the controller will not accept it and it will also not accept any legitimate changes as well.

So if you can get the originally confused file to to write to the controller, treat it like a new controller. First step is to select the correct battery voltage (48v,60v, or 72v) from the drop down. Click Write param. This will set everything in the ball park for lead acid battery. Dont edit any of the voltages yet after it sets them for you.

Reboot controller and connect to PC, make sure the voltage settings were accepted. If everything os still good..

Select EM-50. Click “write param”. And save the file to your computer with a discreet name. You can use config1, config2, or something so you know the last one you saved is working to a point.

Next enter the correct pole pairs and surface mount magnets. Set your phase and hall wire swap and hall shift angle to what you know works or just repeat the pairing. If your phase and hall connector wire colors dont match, match them all yellow-yellow, blue-blue, green-green and then pair the motor using the software. If you need help doing that let me know.

Once all that set, click “write param”, reboot controller and make sure its all still there. If its still good..

Select EM-50 from the drop down (because it always defaults to em-100 after reboot), write param, and save the configuration under a new name.

Next you can one by one change the port settings to match the way you wired it to the speed switch, brakes, cruise etc. after each change, write param, reboot, if changes accepted set EM-50 and write param and save as new file.

If you ever make a change that doesn’t stick, go back and undo that change. If it wont undo then reload your last known good configuration file, write param, and carefully proceed with settings.

Dont mess with phase current settings or it will mess it up again.

Set HDC rpm for the realistic max RPM on the road. If you set it too high it will try to enter flux weakening when the tire is off the ground or when going down very steep hill.

Soft start box unchecked.

Transmission settings
0
0
250
200

Regen 10% until road test, then set it to desired setting.

3 speeds can be set many ways. I have mine
60 50
80 75
100 100
Which for my motor gives 25-35-45 kph and 15a-22a-30a peak current (my current limit is 30a).

By now you already know how to turn off throttle release regen so if its on, turn it off. Again, reboot, and set EM-50 and save file.

Eventually you will have a very nice base configuration file that you can always reload and start tweaking. Make sure you start making good file names, so you know what that file does.

If you have a lithium battery then you need to dial in voltage settings correctly for your battery. The OVP is very important for any lithium battery with BMS that can close the port if a brick Votol gets too high. The OVP also sets regen max voltage at OVP -5V. You can tweak it some but if you raise OVP too high and it regens and closes a port, the controller mosfets can fry.




If its lead battery then you can tweak low voltage settings if you want more or less protection from low battery.

The basic concept. Get a good file loaded, and save every valid change on your computer. You can always delete the excess files once its working but keep the original, the base setup where everything is working, and then any trail settings.

The current PI you may need to do trial and error tests. Change them by a small amount, road test. If good save a new file.
 
BareKuda said:
Transerfer said:
How can I at least do a factory restore? Thanks!!
To do “factory reset” equivalent you need the original configuration file, unmodified. If you opened it, changed it and saved it under the same name, it might be corrupted.

But if you have an original configuration file, simply connect your controller to your PC until you see the fields fill out, then open the original file (dont edit anything) and hit “write param” to save it to your Votol.

Its quite probable this will mess up other settings that you made. So if it accepts the configuration file (reboot controller and it still shows 60a in sports mode), now you can go back and one by one change the settings you know must be changed.

Your voltages are crazy, OVP is lower than LVP, and this might be why the controller is saying “no no no”. There are many settings that if you set wrong the controller will not accept it and it will also not accept any legitimate changes as well.

So if you can get the originally confused file to to write to the controller, treat it like a new controller. First step is to select the correct battery voltage (48v,60v, or 72v) from the drop down. Click Write param. This will set everything in the ball park for lead acid battery. Dont edit any of the voltages yet after it sets them for you.

Reboot controller and connect to PC, make sure the voltage settings were accepted. If everything os still good..

Select EM-50. Click “write param”. And save the file to your computer with a discreet name. You can use config1, config2, or something so you know the last one you saved is working to a point.

Next enter the correct pole pairs and surface mount magnets. Set your phase and hall wire swap and hall shift angle to what you know works or just repeat the pairing. If your phase and hall connector wire colors dont match, match them all yellow-yellow, blue-blue, green-green and then pair the motor using the software. If you need help doing that let me know.

Once all that set, click “write param”, reboot controller and make sure its all still there. If its still good..

Select EM-50 from the drop down (because it always defaults to em-100 after reboot), write param, and save the configuration under a new name.

Next you can one by one change the port settings to match the way you wired it to the speed switch, brakes, cruise etc. after each change, write param, reboot, if changes accepted set EM-50 and write param and save as new file.

If you ever make a change that doesn’t stick, go back and undo that change. If it wont undo then reload your last known good configuration file, write param, and carefully proceed with settings.

Dont mess with phase current settings or it will mess it up again.

Set HDC rpm for the realistic max RPM on the road. If you set it too high it will try to enter flux weakening when the tire is off the ground or when going down very steep hill.

Soft start box unchecked.

Transmission settings
0
0
250
200

Regen 10% until road test, then set it to desired setting.

3 speeds can be set many ways. I have mine
60 50
80 75
100 100
Which for my motor gives 25-35-45 kph and 15a-22a-30a peak current (my current limit is 30a).

By now you already know how to turn off throttle release regen so if its on, turn it off. Again, reboot, and set EM-50 and save file.

Eventually you will have a very nice base configuration file that you can always reload and start tweaking. Make sure you start making good file names, so you know what that file does.

If you have a lithium battery then you need to dial in voltage settings correctly for your battery. The OVP is very important for any lithium battery with BMS that can close the port if a brick Votol gets too high. The OVP also sets regen max voltage at OVP -5V. You can tweak it some but if you raise OVP too high and it regens and closes a port, the controller mosfets can fry.




If its lead battery then you can tweak low voltage settings if you want more or less protection from low battery.

The basic concept. Get a good file loaded, and save every valid change on your computer. You can always delete the excess files once its working but keep the original, the base setup where everything is working, and then any trail settings.

The current PI you may need to do trial and error tests. Change them by a small amount, road test. If good save a new file.

Thank you so much for such detailed advice, friend!!
The first thing I need to do is restore the factory settings! I have the original file unchanged. But he stubbornly refuses to write it down. It does not record not only amps, but also volts. When saving, it gives out what I sent you.
So I'll start from the very beginning and try to restore the original "ini" file according to your recommendation ..
Thank you very much!
 
Does anyone know how to get the extra parameters? I dont have these on my software. I would like to lower my temp cutout.
 

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BareKuda said:
Transerfer said:
How can I at least do a factory restore? Thanks!!
To do “factory reset” equivalent you need the original configuration file, unmodified. If you opened it, changed it and saved it under the same name, it might be corrupted.

Hello BareKuda! I struggled with this problem for two days and nothing happened. I am sending 2 screenshots, on the first one the full original "ini" of the controller file. On the second, what is loaded after recording. What is circled in red does not change in any way. Whatever values ​​I enter..
Do you have an idea what could be the problem? And what can I do to solve it? Thank you very much in advance!
 

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Greetings all - thanks so much for everyone active and helping on this thread, it is the best Votol controller resource out there.

I've had relatively good luck getting my QS 138h 70h v3 spinning with a Votol EM-150/2SP (bought March 2022) but there are a few basics I'd like to ask about before I go further.
In general I'm eager to learn as much as I can about this controller especially how to tune it safely and prevent unnecessary failures.

  • General parameters check - I've attached all pages of my SW app with the controller connected. Happy to get any feedback on these settings - I've been reading this thread and am tuning accordingly.
  • No DISPLAY tab activity - I've never had connection issues using the provided 2 wire CAN - USB adapter but I am wondering if drivers/software with that are the issue. Could that cause something like this?
    The motor spins fine with throttle twist but I don't see anything updating on this page (I, V, rpm) other than bad temperature values, or on my one-wire DKD display also from QS. Inputs like gear selection aren't showing up properly, page 2 has default of high but display shows L. I will get my 3 speed throttle connected although I'm happy to tune it in 1 mode now (sounds like sport & high?)
    Other observations - The remote control doesn't work either, real throttle spins the wheel but remote control throttle slider doesnt't. I don't believe
  • Updating Port Settings - I follow the Votol pdf and what I see here (also starting with all empty functions and adding as needed). But I am curious - does each PA/PB/PC/PD section correspond with a connector pin?
  • Phase wiring - I see most QS 138s are on motor settings: unticked hall, unticked phase wires 60*, and I'm assuming phase wire colors matched to the EM150. I swapped blue <> yellow to match UVW designations with -60*, image below.
    Is this just a preference? These fields look standard to the motor, is there no power to be gained from tuning this past the nominal value?
    Is it possible to damage a motor via the motor setting fields?

About my goals - this project is on a Honda dirt bike and I'm looking to mimic dirt bike performance best I can:
  • Strong starting torque
  • Off throttle and triggered regen - especially tuning these to my preference
  • Predictable and safe behavior off a jump with unloaded rear wheel

I'll stop here but am very excited to have support from this forum.
Cheers!
 

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