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Will this 100A circuit breaker work at 48 to 72V?

SwampDonkey

100 W
Joined
Mar 27, 2018
Messages
227
Ive seen these run at 24V and 80A with no issues on an electric winch, but how would higher voltages affect them? Pretty skookum looking, and rated for 100A.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CAR-STEREO-AUDIO-12V-CIRCUIT-BREAKER-FUSE-INLINE-FITS-4-8-GAUGE-WIRE-100-AMP-US/222368466606?hash=item33c63186ae:g:UQkAAOSwZVpcYzUf:sc:USPSFirstClass!98058!US!-1
 
The higher voltage is not a problem.

But I would not trust that cheap a CB for anything critical, the car stereo world is 99% crap.

Fuses are really the way to go at high currents.
 
john61ct said:
The higher voltage is not a problem.

But I would not trust that cheap a CB for anything critical, the car stereo world is 99% crap.

Fuses are really the way to go at high currents.

True. I'd like to build a nice little N channel mosfet switch. I was thinking 3 IRLB3034s in series.
 
john61ct said:
The higher voltage is not a problem.
Using higher voltage than a breaker or fuse is rated for *is* a problem.

Or at least, could be.

Breakers and fuses have a voltage rating because they can only be guaranteed to break the arc of a voltage below that of their maximum rating.

If the arc doesn't break, then not only is the circuit not broken, and current continue to flow anyway, but the breaker (or fuse) is now filled with a plasma arc, like a welder, and is now heating up very rapidly, with significant potential for fire. Whether a fire happens there or not, the circuit is not broken so whatever caused the overload is still happening, and if *that* is a short circuit, then that will keep being fed current and continue to heat up, and *that* could lead to a fire, too. At the least, it can't protect whatever it's there to protect.


Now, it doesn't mean it wont' work, just that it isn't guaranteed to, so you should not depend on it working, and should also use something that is properly rated for the system.



So...while I have a breaker on the trike that isn't rated at the voltage I'm using it at, I *also* have a fuse on the pack's main lead, just in case. The breaker isn't actually there even to protect the system, it's really there as a master switch, anyway. But if it helps as a breaker, too, that's ok. :)



SwampDonkey said:
True. I'd like to build a nice little N channel mosfet switch. I was thinking 3 IRLB3034s in series.
The problem is that FETs usually fail on, so if anything goes wrong with it, it will likely not break the circuit.

Also, why use three FETs in series? This complicates your gate drive circuitry, at best.
 
Yes, I meant when you look at robust DC CP gear, BSS, Cooper Bussman etc, you see their rating - which can actually be trusted

covers a wide range of DC voltages.

But you are right, NP going down, but not up (by too much)
 
This has been discussed before. Do not use circuit breakers, switches, contactors, relays or fuses beyond their rated voltage or current. AC and DC ratings are separate and often differ considerably.

Breaking the DC arc requires a circuit breaker to be designed for the DC voltage and current being interrupted. The arc that results when the breaker trips at high current can destroy the breaker or fuse (and make it fail to operate as designed which can result in the circuit remaining connected long enough to start a fire or do a lot of damage). There may even be polarity (current flow direction) requirements because a magnet may be used to push the arc into an arc breaker inside the device, and this works with current flow in the proper direction.

The solar industry has brought us circuit breakers that are rated for AC and DC at good current and voltage, and some of them are reasonably priced. More than 100 V and 100 A AC/DC solar breakers are available.
 
john61ct said:
But you are right, NP going down, but not up (by too much)
If you require it to be reliable, you can't exceed the spec at all.

It might work fine...but it might not.
 
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