Yeah a little bit of progress. I finished the aluminium dash and mounted it to the bike. I also spun a PCB to go behind the headlight to replace the birds nest of wiring and plugs underneath. Not 100% happy with that part, I think Ill spin that one again with a few tweaks. The dash itself, I think Im going to do one more revision of the pcb, add uart passthrough and put a Bluetooth modem inside it to directly connect to the fardriver phone app without unplugging/replugging. Also completely forgot to add my overcurrent relay which I need for compliance on the road. Basically just an output which will switch if the controller current gets too high. Otherwise I havent been riding the bike much at all. Flat out with work. Probably going to need to pull the battery apart again. Looks like I have a small drain on cell 3, probably from when they got overloaded at the drags. I did capacity cycle tests on them afterwards and they seemed ok but I think sitting in the hot shed over summer has kickstarted some self draining. Very slow but I do wanna fix it. Will just replace all the cells in cell 3.It has been a while since we heard anything, any progress?
My BMS doesnt have overcurrent protection, just monitors the cells. For road compliance you need to have a contactor to disconnect the main battery and it must open when the key is turned off. Ive done that bit. ADR also want overcurrent protection. You can use a fuse but your also allowed to just measure the current and open the relay if it exceeds the rated current. Given Im reading current from the controller, not a shunt, I doubt it will protect anything as a short externally from the pack will not register a current. Could probably do it based on voltage sag as well I suppose. Probably all irrelevent as I get the impression if I dot most of the i's the engineer wont mind. A lot of the rules are based around cars. I also need to fit a second 12v battery which can run the lights for 30 min. Ill fit it for engineering then remove it.Alright interesting, pictures of the progress is always nice
Do you need an extra overcurrent protection, bms and a fuse is not enough?
No more dyno testing?
It will be interesting to see what the new project are, some kind of vehicle?
. I also may have experienced some MOE errors on one run. They seem to occur at the transition of field weakening. Didnt end up on the tow truck so Ill take it as a win.
I couldn't get more than 650ish at 380dc with the 1800 108v and the 620ish with the 96-850 model.Ive also gone direct drive with the same motor but decided I'm going 29s11p molicel pack for Mx events and quicker charging.The last piece of the puzzle just turned up
the 3shul cl1000 vesc.I bought a mint 2021 kxf250 roller to speed up the build.yeal last time i had a smaller rear sprocket, 46 or something, it'll be further back in the thread. I ran my 60t rear this time. I fried the battey when i did that 13.6 and 140kph run. So yeah, with higher gearing its a better drag bike. With the 60t I wasnt any faster short track because I couldnt use full throttle and keep the front down. Seems about 1.9s is the fastest I can go on a standard dirt bike."Did multiple 1.9s 60 foots and best time was a 13.6 @ 140kph"
That is what I found from another time before you modified the battery and tuned it on the dyno.
So it seems you did a little better back then, hmm
Did you turn down the battery amps to help with the wheelies? (I suppose so as you said power)
Wouldnt it work to just turn down the phase A, if it was wheelies in the start?
no idea, i didnt datalog anything. It was a touch last minute and just wanted to have some fun. Settings were identical to my dyno runs for the most part so looking at those will tell you my pha amps.Do you know what phase amps you are reaching off the start
Originally I was going to take the spring off and just cycle the shock.I imagen it needs to be pretty loose as I've done.Any help would be much appreciated 
Did you have the Magura hall throttle? I was thinking of getting one, was it this one?
Your going to need to have it reasonably loose. If you can get someone to help you by sitting on the bike and compressing the shock, the chain will go tight as you squish. Same as a regular bike. Your bike and motor mounts are different to mine so I cant really give you a measurement. You wont feel the loose chain like you do an IC bike as it wont have the pulses of power to excite the chain. You bike is looking good. The 180 will be a good motor on a MX track. You going for swappable batteries or just one big batt?Hi fella,just wondering if you have a rule of thumb for how loose you run your chain for off-road riding as I've just wrapping up my latest Mx build with the same motor.Mine is all together apart from pack I'm in the middle of building so don't want to strip the shock out if I don't have to
Yes, that is the same as the Magura throttle I had. overall not a bad throttle if your building a dirt bike. My pot was a bit scratchy and caused a very annoying pulsing on the highway during cruise. They are not hall sensor, they are pots. Id say a hall sensor throttle is better but both work. I only went to the factory triumph assembly because it had extra buttons on it and its whats on my 800 xca and Im used to how it feels.Did you have the Magura hall throttle? I was thinking of getting one, was it this one?
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Hi ya,cheers bike is getting there now
.Erm battery wise I'll be going 26s12p 30t cells.Really would rather have a lighter track bike and charge after every session.Im only after about 20mins for one full group ride and then I have a generator that will pump out 2600watt for my 30a charger and i will also be building another pack as they slip in through the top easy enough from testing.Want to see how this packs rides then decide if I want more voltage and power or just more ah.Im not a super fast rider so I think 40kw with all this torque will be more than enough after my 33kw track settings on my crf build.Main thing is to just get out for the summer with a reliable fun bike
Glad I asked, for some reason I thought it was a hall throttle, I want to avoid a pot throttle for the reasons you mentioned. Seems as if the only options are really cheap ones, ($10), that I don't trust or insanely expensive ones, ($400).
I was talking to my brother about this the other day. If a pro rode my WR on an mx track I doubt it would do a 20min moto before going flat. I could be wrong but by the looks of it Stark also felt a 6kwh battery was required for pro MX. Here in WA our club mx events are generally only 5 laps or about 10 to 15min so for a casual rider I could probably get away with half or 3kwh. That or as you say, turn the power down. Looking forward to hearing how it goes.Hi ya,cheers bike is getting there now
For a high quality unit look for an OEM assembly, thats why I went with the triumph assembly. Any bike with a ride by wire system will work. As a reference the Triumph one I got was ~120AUD second hand and they are dual Hall sensor but you only need to use one if you only need one. They will accept a standard grip too.
Yeah it's definitely a balancing act like you know battery ah Vs weight ect ect.I think the us guy's need a FULL 30min at obviously full power.On a deep sand track I just can't see them being able tbh.I reckon the added ah or cell was not a late revision but a late to tell the public it needed more battery"we have the most powerful and lightweight electric bike in the world" not we have a powerfully heavy turd
I did notice that. Marketing out running the engineering side I believe. Still a cool bike and I probably would have got one instead of building my WR if they were available at the time. Still lack the ADR road compliance though.Yeah it's definitely a balancing act like you know battery ah Vs weight ect ect.I think the us guy's need a FULL 30min at obviously full power.On a deep sand track I just can't see them being able tbh.I reckon the added ah or cell was not a late revision but a late to tell the public it needed more battery"we have the most powerful and lightweight electric bike in the world" not we have a powerfully heavy turd
.Yeah I went with the 3Shul vesc mostly because of all the features ect that can be used.Oh I'm a big fan of the Varg but just not the false promises and definitely not the price.Looks wise it's ART in my eyes,I did notice that. Marketing out running the engineering side I believe. Still a cool bike and I probably would have got one instead of building my WR if they were available at the time. Still lack the ADR road compliance though.
I'm tossing up if I should try implementing some rudimentary traction control on my bike. Im sort of curious how much power is needed v how much I use. Once the wheel's spinning do you really go faster spinning it more? or just use more power. I really need to do a V2 of my dash. Would also be cool to chuck an MPU on it and have wheelie control
Doug
